Gary Lewis

Those air bags are the ones I had my hands on in 4 Wheel Parts today, and the Daystar cradles were literally just around the corner. The manager told me they sell lots of those cradles and have not had a problem, so that's the way I'm going to go to soften up the back end of Big Blue while still having plenty of articulation.

Are you saying you can put a Bosch relay where the Ford relays are? Or, what are you saying? How are you "transitioning over to all Bosch style cube relays"? CRIMP! You mean you aren't soldering everything??????

Glad the site is helping. But, tell me about the air bags you pulled off? What are they? Are you wanting to sell them? As for the one on CList, if you've got a one F250 why do you need another? Pass the good times on!

First, why would you badly adjust your parking brakes? But I do think Cardboard Aided Design is a good idea. Anyway, the PDC is going to work out well. I like that plan.

Cory - Jim is right. Effectively the only difference between ported and manifold vacuum is that you don't have vacuum at idle. Other than that there's essentially no difference. The reason I like ported vacuum is that it gives a stable idle. This is especially needed with an automatic. With manifold vacuum when you start the engine and let it idle in neutral there is high vacuum so a lot of advance, which creates a high RPM. Then you drop it in gear and the RPM drops, which drops the vacuum, which drops the advance, which reduces the RPM, which drops the vacuum, which.... But with your truck there's no big reason to go with ported over manifold vacuum since you have the manual transmission.

I've read this several times, but haven't figured out for sure what will be in the trailer. Nor therefore how heavy the trailer might be. As for the C6, a tranny from a Windsor will bolt to a 300. But you'll need a flexplate for the 300.

Not bad. Cross-references as below: 80/86 E-F-U150/350 - - w/unleaded fuel 4.9L E4TZ 9A589-H *CM-2417-E

Jim - I'm not worried about the 120 volt wiring. I'm worried about the 12 volt wiring from the battery to the inverter. We are talking about 120 amps of DC current: (14 amps x 120 volts)/14 volts = 120 amps. This calculator says that a 10' cable to the inverter would have to be made of 4/0 wire. Plus, the engine would have to be spinning pretty rapidly in order to generate that 120 amps. So I do not think a 120 volt compressor is a viable alternative. Grumpin/David - Thanks, but I don't want something that large. Or that heavy. The York compressor would mount on the engine and a tank would go under the passenger's side fender of the bed. Or, a 12v compressor might go to the right of the tool box in the bed and the tank again under the bed. But an engine-driven compressor would take up a lot of extra space as well as add weight.

That's for the Bronco II, the little Ranger, or the 1986 through at least '89 F & U-Series: 84/85 B- -P/S E3TZ 3F540-A Lower — stone shield-r/b E5TZ 3F540-C 86/ B - - P/S E5TZ 3F540-C Lower-stone shield 86/ F100/350,F(Super Duty) - - P/S E5TZ 3F540-C Lower 86/ U150 E5TZ 3F540-C Lower

On my trip to Moab last summer I noted the time it took to air up my 33x10.50-15 tires from 15 - 30 psi. Unfortunately I don't remember where I wrote it down. I kind of think it might have been in one of the threads here. But barring finding a much more reliable memory than mine, I'm thinking it was around 15 minutes. That's with my 1.48 cfm @ 0 psi compressor, but starting with a 2.5 gallon tank at 100 psi (the pressurized tank lets me get the first tire done in a minute or so, with the rest of the time divided between the other three). Is it worth setting up a more complicated system to go faster than 15 minutes? It hasn't been for me yet. But I do think about it on every trip. As I described it a few posts back, "it takes a slightly obnoxiously long time" to get the tires reinflated. It's slightly objectionable but not horrible for me as I do the work, but I'm a little (maybe overly?) sensitive to what my passengers think about just sitting in one place for 15 minutes. Lesley is pretty patient, so she hasn't complained. But if I didn't need the compressor to run when I'm towing the Bronco, and if I was doing it over, I'd want something faster. Given those two givens, I live with it, and I'm sure you can too. But that 15 minutes of constant running is why I felt that a 100% duty cycle compressor was necessary. I don't know for sure that it's not OK to run a 33% compressor for 15 minutes and then shut it off for 30. But 15 minutes seems like a pretty long time to let it heat-soak. If you actually let it cool down for 10 minutes every 5 (if 5 isn't too long), now you're up to 35 minutes to inflate all 4 (assuming the last cool-down is while you're driving again). I know there's no way I'd do that, so I'd end up running the compressor hot and hoping I didn't melt it. Not wanting to be put in that situation I made sure i had a 100% duty compressor. edit: Gary, I posted the above before your post today. What you said there sounds reasonable. But keep in mind the duty cycle if you go electric. Oh, and I see that the Viair 450C is pretty close in stats to what I have, for what that's worth. I also see you are looking at 145 psi in the tank. I have my compressor shutting off at 100 psi. Upping the shut-off pressure would let me get more inflation done before the tank wasn't helping, but seems like it would also be harder on the compressor in the long run. Plus I think I'd need to regulate the pressure to my air-operated OX locker then. I'm not saying you shouldn't run 145 psi. It might even be quite a bit better overall. But I think I'll stick with 100. I think we think alike. I’m worried about what Janey will think as I’m airing up, so want it to be quick. And given that I might go with 35’s later, I don’t want to go too small now. So I’m going to explore the York approach and let you know. Thanks!

Apparently I thought about this quite a bit last night as I have come to a conclusion: The AC compressor idea isn't to my liking as the current required at 12v would be in excess of 120 amps, and that's some serious wiring.With that I just spent time in 4 Wheel Parts and guy that helped me does do some 'wheeling. Basically, in his opinion until you get up to the dual-compressor packages from ARB they are all somewhat limited. His Viair gets HOT, and he's sure it'll give up the ghost due to the heat. So he's seriously considering the ARB, but it is over $500. :nabble_smiley_scared:Having said that, he thinks the York compressor is the way to go, especially if you have one. And toward that end I did get a response back from C U Off Road and they don't have a York bracket for a Ford. But, they do have all the individual parts I'd need to make a York work.So, given that what Bob said fits well with what this guy said, I think I'll give the York a test fit once the engine goes into the truck. If it will fit nicely then I may go down that road. If not, it'll be back to a 12v compressor.

Gary, I had to go back in time to find this: 9/13/2014 Gary Lewis Posting Legend Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northeast, OK Posts: 32,860 Results We played with David's truck today to determine what his AFR is and what his timing is. First, we installed my AEM wideband meter and looked at the AFR: Idle: Once warmed up it was about 12.5:1 Cruise: At 62 where he ususally runs it was in the mid-15's on level ground, but climbing hills it got as high as 17.0 at one point. Power: Once the throttle was open it went as low as 11.5 but normally at about 12.0 - 12.5. That said the carb, a 1970 YF carb off of an F350, is jetted just right. It really shouldn't be any leaner, but the truck runs well so it isn't too lean. And it certainly isn't rich. Then we checked the timing. The initial timing was set at 18 degrees, which was getting good MPG but made the engine slightly hard to start sometimes. And, it pinged at full throttle, so the overall timing was too much. As for the mechanical timing, at 1700 RPM where David cruises it was giving 10 more degrees advance. Then we checked the vacuum advance and found that it was starting to advance at 10" and was giving a total of 18 degrees 16" of vacuum, and at the 14" of vacuum the truck had at 62 MPH the advance was 12 degrees. So, total advance at 1700 was 18+10+12=40. Then we turned the vacuum advance two turns clockwise, which made the vacuum start coming in at 8", gave the full advance of 18 degees advance at 14". Then we set the initial timing to 17 degrees, and the drive determined that it pinged both at part throttle as well as full throttle. So we put the initial timing at 14+, giving a total of 14+10+18 = 42 degrees at 1700 RPM. And the truck felt happier with that setting than it has. Good find, David! And yes, if it pings at WOT there's either too much initial advance or too much centrifugal advance as there shouldn't be any vacuum advance. But that info should give Dave a good starting point.

Watch it at just slightly more throttle than needed to cruise at maybe 45 MPH up. That’s because the advance will be greatest at the highest vacuum. At WOT there’s not much vacuum nor advance. But glad it is getting g sorted that easily. 👍

Dad was a Buick man, huh? Did he ever have one of these? I've just about settled on a '60 Invicta like the above as my next car...if I can find one in the right condition for the right price. No, he skipped from '57 to '64. But friends down the street had one of the 1960 Buicks, but not the Invicta. Those are really cool looking! And with the 401 it would fly - although not too swiftly off the line.

Grumpin - I kinda thought it was a joke. Jim - I don't remember the details about the tank discussions. But with what I'm finding, below, I'm leaning at this point in time to a turnkey system. All - I put together the following spreadsheet to try to get my head around the multitude of Viair offerings as well as other options. But so far all I've gotten on it is the Viair. However, it looks to me like topping up four 33" tires from 15 to 30 PSI might take all of 15 minutes at worst case. And while I know that a York would do it a lot faster, I'm questioning the need to do it a lot faster given the time it'll take up front to create the York-based system. Is it worth it? Note that all of the numbers on there are from Viair's website, although I did interpolate from 35" tire times to get to 33" tire times since the bottom two systems don't list 33" times. And the three different pressure points I chose (0, 30, & 90) were to allow comparison to the York compressor as I so far have only found one rating on it. Thoughts?

And I found that: So with that info tomorrow I'll measure tanks at both HF awa 4wd Parts, and maybe even Northern Tool. I think I just ruled Harbor Freight portable air tanks out. Here's what the owner's manual says: Apparently there's no drain on the bottom of the tank. But they do show drains on the bottom of the tanks on the compressors.

Going back and looking at the discussions about tank sizes, Grumpin took these measurements: And I found that: So with that info tomorrow I'll measure tanks at both HF awa 4wd Parts, and maybe even Northern Tool.

Bob - I'm with you. From everything I've read the locked-rotor amperage (LRA) on an induction motor is quite high and it will take quite the inverter to power a 110v compressor. Having said that, Janey and I are headed into T-Town to see Midway tomorrow and I plan to make at least two stops: Harbor Freight to see if they know the LRA for their compressors. Or, if said compressors have a name plate with the info shown in the table here at Power Tips. If so I should be able to calculate the LRA. And, while there I'll talk to them about their inverters to see if any of them are capable of powering their compressors. 4wd Parts to talk to them about the various onboard air systems they carry as well as those they've been around. Like maybe a York? And how about that Smittybilt compressor? Meanwhile, I'm reading everything I can find. For instance, this from Jedi.com on a York Air Compressor For Onboard Air. Note that it has links to other pages on that site about the tank, oil mods for the York, etc. And, along the way I saw a reference to C U Off Road, and they make kits for installing a York on lots of different vehicles, but nothing is said about Fords. So I sent them an email and we'll see what they say. But, they have pulley/clutches and other things that may come in really handy. So, I'm not saying no to #4, meaning a large inverter and a 110v compressor, but I doubt that's going to work.

The info on the 351W and then Specifications tab @ Documentation/Engines/Windsor shows the 1984 2V cam lift to be .260" for both intake and exhaust. And with the 1.6:1 rockers that would give .416", although the valve lift is actually shown as .415". But the 4V, meaning the HO, is shown as having an intake valve lift of .448", which is pretty close to your .442". However, we aren't told if the duration is longer on the 4V cam, so we really can't draw any conclusions from this on the effect of higher lift with the same duration. But, this article might help: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0202-rocker-arm-ratio. (Yes, I know it is about Chevies. )

You are now on the map. As for the D60, it is still in the works. Ran into a problem, as you'll see, but we getting close.

Welcome! Beautiful truck. Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd like. On the D60, have you seen my thread where I'm installing Sky Offroad's RSK/SuperDuty kit?

You are now on the map! What harness did you use? Lots of people are wanting to know if a new harness is available.

Bill is right, and where the smoke grinder sits in that pic is where the York would go. I checked out the mounting when Huck's engine, looking much like that one, was on the stand before I took it apart. Making a bracket doesn't seem like it would be difficult at all. I'd just need the polygroove pulley/clutch, which I've just seen for $135, and the oil accumulator/feedback system. As for an alternator to create 60 cycle AC, no thanks. I'm not even sure this ECU supports the PTO feature, and I'm even less sure there's a parameter in it to allow adjusting the RPM. Jim - The PTO feature is an input to the ECU that tells it the PTO is going to be used so it should up the idle speed. I hope to use that to spin up the alternator when running the winch - or maybe a massive inverter?

You'se guys have certainly thrown another option on the table! This HF 8 Gallon 1.5 HP 150 PSI Oil-Free Portable Air Compressor sells for $140 and delivers 4.1 CFM @ 90 PSI. And it only pulls 12 amps, which is 1440 watts at the rated 120 volts. That would give me everything needed, assuming that I can use that tank. (Need to go back and re-read Ron/reamer's measurements to see if he measured that compressor.) As for the inverter, The Inverter Store says: But the owner's manual on that compressor doesn't give starting current. So I need to do some more sleuthing to see if I can find a similar compressor that does have the starting current rated. JADELearning says: So, if it the starting current on that compressor is 6 times the running current then we are looking at needing an inverter of 8,640 watts. HF has a 5000 watt continuous/10,000 watt peak inverter for $400. That's a whole lot of inverter, but the combo is still not too bad price wise since I want an inverter anyway and that gives a lot more air than the 12v jobs. Hmmm....

I was afraid you were going to say that, Bob. I currently have 33's and some day might consider 35's, so do not want to have something where I have to wait around a long time to air up at the end of the trail. I think I'll spend a bit of time today to get specs on the various Viairs as there aren't that many, and compare them to the output of the York and the Smittybilt. And maybe an ARB or two. I need to see facts in a spreadsheet so's I can get my head around the situation. .................