Gary Lewis

Then I must be a dunce by now. This is my third game today. But it was yesterday that I thought the parts didn't fit. So if I've lowered my mental capacity from that.....

Well, I got the door handle boots just now. They weren't quite what I expected, and here's the email I just sent to U-TechCenter:

Well, I am HAPPY to say that I'm a DUNCE! & I was trying to put the pressure plate on un-tapped holes on the flywheel. When I realized that and moved to the tapped holes it lined up perfectly. I now have bolts in the holes to prove it.

Trying too hard? Maybe. There's 42 seconds until half time and then I'm going back to the shop to see if I can find part numbers on them. Or, bolt things together differently.

No, I didn't get the new master/slave. Here's what LB172 says: Big Blue hasn't had any leaks so I don't think that's going to be a problem. But I can replace the master/slave later if needed - once I get a kit that will bolt together.

Here's what Rock Auto's site says: LuK 07-910 & LFW109. I'm lost. What am I doing wrong?

Bill - You had too much pressure on the clutch fork? Jim - No, I ordered clutch kit 07-910 and flywheel LFW109. The pages below are directly from the LuK catalog that I downloaded. And I have exactly what it says I should have. So, is there something I can be doing incorrectly in placing the pressure plate on the flywheel? Did they ship me the wrong part in the right box?

I thought about drilling the old flywheel but decided that it would be better to get one already drilled properly. So now, having paid $110 for one that isn't drilled correctly, if I'm going to drill something I'll drill the old one. But what I'd rather do is to buy a new clutch and flywheel that match. So I'm perusing catalogs/websites.....

Found a photo of the cert label, the truck was assembled in April of 86 so it's not even a later build. So it's interesting that it already had an E7TE stamping in the frame. Yes, that makes it even more interesting.

Some of the experts have arrived - Shaun and Jonathan. Good job, guys.

Yes, it certainly is! I'd not thought that there would be a pressure plate that wouldn't fit either flywheel. And I'd not realized that there's no way, at least that I can find, to ensure that the parts you are ordering will work together. I just called Carolina Clutch and, as expected, I got voice mail. But it said to leave a message and they'd return the call or to send an email as they monitor it 24x7. So I did both, with the email shown below. We shall see. Well, I was wrong. Apparently Carolina Clutch doesn't make LuK components. They sell them. Got a note from them that I need to either contact LuK or Amazon. And I can't figure out how to contact LuK. So if any of you know please tell me. And/or, if you know another way to figure out what LuK parts go together tell me that as well. I ask because I have little hope that Amazon is going to know what the problem is. So they'll probably say return this or return that. But I don't know what to order to replace this or that.

Those look STOUT! Well done.

The regulators were replaced in 1987. That one was replaced by E7TZ 1523201-A. So while the E2TZ version will probably fit 1980 - 89, it isn't "correct" for the 1987 and later ones. But it will probably work just fine.

80/86 F 100/350.U150 4 T—18 E2TZ 7210-D

I'm not sure I understand how they are attached. You said they are "welded them to the channel under the doors". But then you said they are "mounted 5 inches below the under door channel". So are there uprights not shown in the first pic that are welded to the truck? And how do they attach on the inner end? I'm just wondering if there's a way to make them solid w/o welding to the truck? Also, how do they feel when you step on them? I'm wondering if the horseshoes make them tricky to step on. Oh yes, I like the looks!

That's an even better plan.

No prob. There is a TSB on the 2G issue. The issue had to do with poor connections, and since you have a hard time getting that connector out you might want to make sure it is good.

You are really digging into this! Interesting stuff. But Page 19 of the early 1985 brochure (Documentation/Literature/1985 Literature/Early 1985 Brochure) says that both the XL and the XLT got the Bright Surround Moulding on the Door Trim Panel.

You have a 2G alternator, as shown in the pic below from this page: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion. Hopefully that page will explain how to do the conversion because the 2G is also called the "fire starter". It was a known problem that Ford phased out pretty quickly in favor of the 3G.

I did add the fuse information and link to Digi-Key here: Documentation/Electrical/Circuit Protection. Let me know if there is more we should add.

Yes, it certainly is! I'd not thought that there would be a pressure plate that wouldn't fit either flywheel. And I'd not realized that there's no way, at least that I can find, to ensure that the parts you are ordering will work together. I just called Carolina Clutch and, as expected, I got voice mail. But it said to leave a message and they'd return the call or to send an email as they monitor it 24x7. So I did both, with the email shown below. We shall see.

And now for the next problem - the clutch and flywheel. Yes, I know we thought we had those nailed, but no. Yesterday the flywheel came in and the pressure plate won't bolt up to it, as shown below. The weird thing is that both Amazon and Carolina Clutch, who make the LuK products, say that this LuK clutch kit (07-910) and LuK flywheel (LFW109) both fit a 1995 460. But they don't appear to work together on the same engine. So one or the other will have to go back. But I won't know which until I can call Carolina Clutch on Monday to find out what is going on.

LOL! I'm still "on" FB, although mainly just cherry-picking the questions to point people to the documentation here for their answers. But I don't tend to spend much time there as it can really be frustrating.

As far as I know, the answer is yes, but somebody else will have to confirm. I think the only issue is that you'd have to drill all of the screw holes. I believe the screws used on the plastic trim pieces are all self-tappers, so if there's no trim, there are also no holes. Not a big deal. I looked at doing this also, but didn't look very far into it. There was a blue Bullnose that showed up at the junkyard with the headliner trim cab. Problem was, the roof was partially crushed...so not only were some of the parts damaged, they were also difficult to access. I scrapped the idea very quickly...lol. My cab is bare bones, like a tin can inside. We'll have to wait for one of the experts to chime in on the topic. I agree that you can install a headliner on a non-headliner truck, but we are still awaiting the experts.

Well, I looked at the Dorman tubing and it is good to 200 degrees. So I found the stuff below which has this rating: -35°C (-31°F) to +135°C (275°F); intermittent to +150°C (302°F). But it was an interesting outing to find it. Went to the first parts store (which shall remain nameless) and asked the young man for "2' of 1/4" fuel injection hose". I watched him go back to the bulk hose and stretch out a LOT more than 2', so I went back to see what was going on. He was going to give me 4' of hose that said right on it "Not for fuel injection use". When I pointed it out he said "That's what we use on everything." So I went on to where I should have gone in the first place 'cause we have a member that works in that store, and both guys in there are "older" and know what they are doing. Sure enough, they had the hose below and the clamps. So, how easy was it to install? Just right, not too loose and not too tight. But, it was obvious that the guy in the other thread was right - it was going to take some lubrication to get the hose on, and he cautioned that you'd better get it fully on in the first go as it isn't easy to get off. However, I don't like the idea of using oil on the inside of the hose for the lubrication as it isn't going to go away and will leave the connection less secure than it could otherwise be. So I just used water and the hoses went on nicely, although it did take some pressure to get them fully in place. But I figure that the water will evaporate and leave the connection more secure. The original tubes are 2.6" long, so that's what I cut the replacements to. I slipped them on one rail to where I thought the ends should be and then slipped the hose clamps on and pressed the other rail on. I'd measured the outside of the rails at 9 1/4" apart, so I pressed until I got that measurement on each end. But once the initial press was done they did NOT want to move again. Then I put them in place and discovered that the legs of the clamps hit the lower plenum if pointed down, so I rotated them front/rear. Here's a couple of shots of how they look installed: