Gary Lewis

That's the top-of-the-line tailgate, not something special for the Explorer. Like this from the back of the '85 brochure:

I've seriously considered adding lights in the Warn winch bumper on Big Blue - even though people think that's sacrilegious given the rarity of those bumpers. But there's plenty of room to do so and I'm still thinking about it. Besides, I may PC it black since it has rust showing, although the rust does add to the patina. Toward that end I've done a lot of reading about extra lighting. And what I've read makes sense - you want the light down low for two reasons: Fog: This puts it under the fog or snow. But if the lights are high then you'll have the light reflecting into your eyes Dips: If you put the light down low the dips will stand out because there won't be any light in them. But if you put the light high, like above the cab, you'll light up the bottom of the dips and won't be able to see where they are.

Spot on. People say you're never getting your money back on this truck, I say who says I'm going to sell it when I'm done. This is what I want, it's the generation of Truck I love. Some people want a custom porsche or something else as a "dream" vehicle. I just want my bullnose... Maybe three. Bingo. Neighbor with the relatively new Jimmy we were going to put the "bed bar" on will have 7 KC HiLights on it as well as 33" aggressive tires and a 4" lift. But looking at Big Blue he said he's jealous. I'll have a bunch of money in BB, but nothing compared to what he's got in his truck. And his never gets off the pavement.

I think that pic is of a little Ranger. Right? Don't think there was a brushed grille for the full-sized trucks in the Bullnose era.

The reason the exterior badge isn't available on the Flaresides is because it went on the side of the bed.

Is this what you are looking for? I don't have time right now to scan the whole book, or even just the Color And Trim, tab in but here's Page 5:

I see, said the blind man. Yes, a megafuse and holder would work nicely.

I reached that point in a late 90's Uhaul truck coming through the middle of Atlanta in stop and go traffic on I85. All of that concrete, the heat from the cars, and the fact that it was summer put that truck at it's breaking point. A/C kicked off for a few miles but it came back when we got to I75 and out of the concrete jungle. Definitely wasn't fun. I don't know what the Dorman stuff is rated for, nor what the original Ford stuff is rated for. But both of them soften the same way with my heat gun, so are probably rated the same. However, with the fuel flowing through the rails and the hoses they should be kept fairly cool. But are you suggesting that I should go with the EFI hose and clamps?

Yes, that is a nice carrier. If the truck wasn't so expensive..... I've not gotten mine built. It isn't my time that is the problem but that of my friend that was/is going to build it. He has cancer and is going through about his 4th or 5th round of treatment, so has much bigger problems to worry about than my bumper, so I don't mention it. However, I won't need it for a while. The spare is in the middle of the bed, chained to the 5th wheel base, and until I convince my son to go with me on a real overlanding trip it can stay right there. In the interim Janey and I'll use the truck for trips where we don't camp and, therefore, don't need as much storage space.

Frank - I can't get your link to work. But if I understand correctly you are going to replace the alternator's output wire with a new wire and a Maxi fuse. In that case, this calculator says that for a 1 meter run at 60 amps an 8 gauge wire is needed for a max of a 3% voltage drop. But make sure that whatever fuse holder you get is rated to handle that much current. Jim - Speaking of that, I'm pretty sure that the 1996 PDC has slots that originally carried pretty hefty fuses, but that's a good point and I'll check in a bit when I get to the shop. And that's a good find of the Slow Blow fuses at Digi-Key. Thanks. As for sizing the fuse, I've thought of two approaches: First, add up the fuses the circuit is serving and use one that size. Second, gauge the wire size of the circuit and fuse for however much it can carry. I'm leaning to the latter, but maybe there's a better way? (Just heard Carly and James sing about a better way and going with the flow. Makes me ) On the charts, I'm thinking of adding them to this page: Documentation/Electrical/Circuit Protection and on the Blade Fuses tab. And I'd add the link to Digi-Key. Thoughts? Your "cool" smiley has me wondering what you were thinking. Jochen - My vehicles always drive MUCH better with new tires. Let us know how yours does.

Chris - That looks really good. I guess the Bullnose trucks are finally getting some love.

Oh yes, there's no mention on that site of 9/32" tubing. So I'm guessing that the original tubing is 1/4" but didn't fully return to that size after all these years.

Thanks. Don't know what the Dorman stuff that I have is rated to, pressure or temp, but it is marketed for use in the FI systems. In fact, I think Ray and I used it on his '86 years ago. And I've used it on other trucks, including Big Blue. But I don't use boiling water. I just use my heat gun, cautiously. I've not had any melting or other problems, so will give that a try after a couple of cups of Joe.

You are in good company. My "transformation" of Big Blue has become a bit bigger than expected? I'd have been money ahead to sell BB and buy an F350. But I want to keep BB for many reasons. Besides, it isn't about economics. If it was none of us would be doing this. We would be buying up other people's projects for half the price they have in them, completing them, and flipping them.

And frustration, but where's the fun in that? Chasing down the parts is what makes building a truck exciting for me, so I'd rather build one from nothing than buy something that's already 85% of what I want. What can I say? Don't do as I say, do as I do?

Maybe. I don't remember. Anyway, I got about two dozen more things blasted and PC'd, inc the fuel rails. I had a fleeting thought of just buying in new rails, but when they came in between $150 and $200 I decided to PC them. Took a bit of time to get them well blasted given all the nooks and crannies, and then to ensure there was powder everywhere, but they turned out pretty good. Pics in a bit. But, I had to remove the nylon fuel lines between the two sides and now I need to find the right replacement hose. I had assumed that either the 1/4" return or the 5/16" supply from a Dorman repair kit would work, but no dice. The smaller line isn't about to go and the larger line is too large. The pieces that came off with a bit of heat have an inner liner, as you can see below. And the ID of the liner measures about 9/32", which I can't find so far on the interweb. But 9/32" equates to 7.14 mm, so maybe these are 7mm? Here's a pic of the 1/4 line on the bottom, the two lines I removed, and the 5/16" on the top: And, here are pics of the PC'd rails in place w/o the connecting lines nor injectors: I found this regarding the tubing that ties the fuel rails together: So, if 1/4" hose is right, then maybe I can get that 1/4" nylon line on? Think I'll give it a try.

Maybe. I don't remember. Anyway, I got about two dozen more things blasted and PC'd, inc the fuel rails. I had a fleeting thought of just buying in new rails, but when they came in between $150 and $200 I decided to PC them. Took a bit of time to get them well blasted given all the nooks and crannies, and then to ensure there was powder everywhere, but they turned out pretty good. Pics in a bit. But, I had to remove the nylon fuel lines between the two sides and now I need to find the right replacement hose. I had assumed that either the 1/4" return or the 5/16" supply from a Dorman repair kit would work, but no dice. The smaller line isn't about to go and the larger line is too large. The pieces that came off with a bit of heat have an inner liner, as you can see below. And the ID of the liner measures about 9/32", which I can't find so far on the interweb. But 9/32" equates to 7.14 mm, so maybe these are 7mm? Here's a pic of the 1/4 line on the bottom, the two lines I removed, and the 5/16" on the top: And, here are pics of the PC'd rails in place w/o the connecting lines nor injectors:

Good plan, Stan. Might save you some money.

I now see those, thanks Jim. But they have to be mounted. What I'd like to find is one in a Maxi Fuse size since I think my PDC has spare slots for them. Guess I'd better check.... In the interim, here's the fuse name chart I'm working from: And here are the dimensions: And here are the ratings those fuses come in. I suppose I could determine the wire size that each fusible link ties into and pick a Maxi Fuse that would protect that size of wire.

Nice truck. The price is kinda high, but you couldn't recreate it for twice that, so.....

Are you looking for used trim or NOS? If the latter you might be better off giving the "searchers" part numbers. This is the listing from the MPC from this page: Documentation/Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding and the Lower Moulding and then the Regular Cab tabs. Are you looking for both sides or just the driver's side as shown in the illustration you posted? Can you give the searchers the part numbers from this?

You can see my thoughts on Dad's truck's console starting around here on FTE. Although there is some earlier that may be a good starting point. And there are some pics of Big Blackie's console here: Documentation/Picture Gallery/Big Blackie. But to see how he did it and what all was in it you'll have to go back to FTE on that as well.

That is probably Spruce on the interior, as shown in the lower left below from the '82 brochure. And you can see that here: Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint.

Jim - I'd already decided on 3/8-16. But my question was on the length of the Helicoil insert. They are supposedly available several lengths, but all I'm finding for quick delivery are the .562" length. And since the tab on the alternator is .840" thick I was wondering if it would be better to find a longer insert - like the .750". I just ordered the .562" version. And it will be easy to make sure that both tails end inside the hole.

Heed what Bill and Jim said about using a FLAT surface to sand the thing flat. It works.