Jump to content
Bullnose Forum

Gary Lewis

Administrators
  • Posts

    40,735
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. Yes! Now I understand. Thanks, guys. I'm a bit slow. And you could put a zerk fitting in the Z-bar. Or use one of the Teflon-lined inserts.
  2. I didn't think that there were any parts available for the mechanical clutch linkage, plastic or otherwise, but somebody can correct me if I'm wrong. As I said, I am a hydraulic clutch guy and greatly prefer that system, despite any issues it may have. I'm not really familiar with the mechanical clutch system linkage, but a cheap "fix" for that ball and socket arrangement would be a straight shaft with a heim joint on it, wouldn't it? I'm just guessing of course...but a more rigid ball joint assembly (with a grease nipple) would be the bee's knees as they say. My whole three-on-the-tree fiasco really jaded me on mechanical linkages...lol. A few years ago I got the plastic parts from LMC, and while that was for a 351M's linkage our handy dandy parts list says they all use the same parts. But I'm not seeing how a Heim joint would work on this. We need a bushing or bearing inside of the Z-bar, and I can't figure out how to do the Heim joint. Is there one that doesn't have the stud on the side of it?
  3. Chris - Are you saying the Coyote never came in a 4x4 truck? I thought it did so you can have both the 4x4 and a Coyote.
  4. But the 1986 300 six still had a carburetor, not EFI. So while it was EEC-IV surely the wiring is quite different between the carb'd engine and the EFI'd one?
  5. Well, I proclaim the engine assembled. UPS delivered the oil pump drive shaft this afternoon after I had everything else ready, so I installed the shaft, pump, and pickup. Then I installed the oil pan gasket and pan - and on the second pass I installed the stiffeners. But, I'm forgetting one issue I had. The one-piece gasket is set up for all 1/4" fasteners. But this block and the set of fasteners from Huck's engine, which is where the pan came from, has two 5/16" fasteners at the very back. Eli/Smokenchoken had warned me on Saturday that he had the same setup and had to remove the grommet in his gasket. But I thought I could ream the grommet out and got a fine round file and went to work. And just before I got the first grommet out to a size to allow the bolt to pass it broke out of the gasket. So on the second one I was ever so careful - and it broke out as well. However, they broke out cleanly w/o hurting the gasket, and since they are right at the place where the gasket's tab goes down into the "RTV here" slot, the gasket can't move. So I put it together with the grommets out and it turned out fine. And, here are shots of the engine:
  6. You can! ^^^ You guys are BAD! I really ought to quote Matthew 16:23 again, but I won't. Seriously though, I have too many projects now. So if I were to buy a Bronco it would have to be ready to go. But what fun would that be?
  7. David - I think the difference is in the size of the opening into the tank. I believe that in '85 they introduced the larger opening to allow the in-tank fuel pump to go in, but all of the tanks got the larger opening regardless of whether the truck had an in-tank pump or not. So if your sender has the large flange on it I don't think it'll fit. However, I could be wrong on that. I don't think I've been wrong yet today, so I'm overdue.
  8. That makes sense, Bill. So here's the mid-day update while I await the delivery of the oil pump drive shaft. I got the dip stick flange installed using The Right Stuff and red Loctite. Fastenal says that torque for a 1/4-20 stainless screw is 64 inch-lbs and Permatex says to put TRS on and torque the fasteners to spec, so that's what I did. However, the first step was to put the red Loctite in the threads of the flange and then coat the face of the flange with TRS. That way when I put the flange against the inside of the pan TRS came through the screw holes in the pan. So when the screws were torqued down there was TRS under their heads and between the flange and the pan, and red Loctite securing the screws. So, it wasn't the Bridge Of Sighs after all. And I got across before the oil pump shaft got in.
  9. Scott - Welcome! Glad to meet you. Hope you'll start threads in the main section on your trucks so we can follow along. But feel free to post pics in here as well. Where's home? I ask because we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city.
  10. Bill - We do on the site, thanks to you. But the 300 six wasn't EEC-IV then. Are you suggesting he use the 5.0L wiring for EEC in the '86 EVTM?
  11. Well, I'm not sure I can help you. The EVTM I have is a '96 and the only wiring diagrams it has for anything smaller than a 460 is for EEC-V with MAF and sequential injection. Yours should be speed density and bank fire. So, do you still want the diagrams?
  12. Yes, apply RTV "here". http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif As for the stiffeners, here's a shot of one of them, the one with the "crook" in it. The other side is straight with the curves on the end. But, I can't tell you about other pans 'cause the one Scotty sent is a rear sump that uses those stiffeners. You can see the imprint of them on the flange, although he didn't send those. And here's a closeup of the only numbers I can find on them:
  13. What "system" would be most helpful?
  14. Unfortunately I don't have an EVTM that covers the vans. Sorry. It is possible that the wiring is the same but just the length of the wires and the placement of the parts is different. So if you want to look at some of the pages let me know. I could post some and you could see.
  15. That looks sooooo good! I'm sure glad you are ahead of me on this. I know I'm going to go through Big Blue's column to ensure its bearings/bushings are good, but then I'll go through Dad's to ensure it looks good AND has good bearings. Can't wait for the how-to.
  16. Not bad at all. I really wish I could be in the market for a Bronco.
  17. Bill - I do have the reinforcements, and I'll post pics of them tomorrow. Jim - I'll check and see if the pan Scotty sent has the collet-style flange, but I do know the reinforcements fit it. As for a 521, Eli/Smokenchoken was in town yesterday and we went to lunch and talked about our projects. He showed me the spec's on a 521 Scotty builds, which made my mouth water. Wow! But I don't buy that a less-stressed engine uses less fuel. One of the losses in a spark ignition engine is "pumping losses", which is at its peak the higher the manifold vacuum, meaning when the throttle is less open. There's a good discussion of it in Mechadyne, but this sentence is key: A 521 is going to exhibit more pumping loss than a 460, so its economy will be reduced. On the other hand you are right that I have a lot of money in Big Blue. So at first blush it might seem that the MPG difference between a 460 and a 521 is moot. But what's not being discussed is the cost of the 521 itself. I'm guessing that we are talking an additional $4K to $5K over what I've spent on the 460. But Scotty assures me that I won't lack for power with what I have, and that I'll have a new all time favorite engine. Anyway, I've thought that the intake resembles a cobra. And I'd bet Shelby would have loved the EFI for the Le Mans effort. I think I read that the GT40's 429 was kicking out 465 HP, which would have been easily w/in the realm of the EFI system with larger injectors.
  18. July is a very late build date. Back then the new vehicles were coming out in the September timeframe, if I remember correctly.
  19. Sounds like a good fit. I like it when an unexpected plan comes together. And this one sounds like a good one.
  20. Bill - I have a junk pair I used earlier to cover the heads up, so I understand. As for what I did today, I PC'd the dip stick flange, the drain plug, and the 23 pan bolts using the epoxy primer. Decided I'd try it and see how well it holds up w/o a top coat. The epoxy isn't UV stable, but I doubt there will be much of that up under the truck. Tomorrow I'll install the flange using The Right Stuff and red Loctite and then when the oil pump shaft gets in I can install the oil pump, pickup, and pan. At that point the engine is essentially done. By the way, I checked on the Dana 60 on Friday and they don't even have the parts in yet.
  21. Neat! But, why explain about the new, lighter, etc trucks on the 2nd year?
×
×
  • Create New...