Gary Lewis

Ok, tell me what you've done?

You are now on the map. And I know where Hagerstown is. Been through there on I-81 a few times.

You and I both know Gary will be the one to cross that bridge, and the engineer in him would never let someone else cross it. Shaun - Do you read lips? But, you are right, although probably not for the reason you are thinking. I just realized that I don't have a new oil pump drive shaft to spin the Melling M-84D pump Scott supplied. And while it is a standard volume/standard pressure pump, he didn't think the shaft from Huck's engine, shown below, looked good enough so recommended a Melling IS-84, and suggested I buy it locally as it won't cost much. However, we don't have much locally so I turned to the internet, and that shaft is $18 but won't get here until Wednesday. But, I found a Milodon 22570 4130 Chrome Moly for a bit more that will be here on Monday. So, I can't put the pan on until at least Monday and I might as well take the time to make sure it doesn't leak. Ok, I'm about 3/4's of the way across that bridge. Is it the Bridge Of Sighs? Got the dip stick flange off and discovered that the gasket was cork. Glad I'm doing this. Then I got the pan media-blasted, which was quite an undertaking in and of itself as it is BIG. Plus, someone had splashed some really hard gray paint on the pan and it did NOT want to come off. But I did get it off. Along the way I decided I wanted to make sure the powder stays on, so I used the Eastwood epoxy primer first. You have to get that to flow out, which is at about 300 degrees, pull the part out of the oven, and then coat it with the finish power and put it back in the oven. But the electrostatic attraction is cut significantly by the coat of epoxy, so it is best to lay on the finish powder while the part is still hot so it'll melt and stick. And you are working against time as the part is cooling and after a bit the finish powder won't stick. The results came out pretty good, although in this first pic you can see a light area with the gray primer showing through a bit. Still, it is pretty good and I'm happy.

Good job, Bill. But there are a few more pics here, just in case: Documentation/Underhood/Vacuum Systems.

A range of 500 miles would have worked for the most recent trip, and probably would have for the one a few years ago to the back-of-beyond in Colorado. However the re-charging strategy would have to have been developed before leaving as we went from here to Raton NM, which is 515 miles by the shortest route and we didn't go exactly that way. So we would have had to re-charge in Woodward along the way. So if an electric vehicle with a 500 mile range was comparably priced and a reasonable infrastructure was in place we would consider it if we were in the market for a new vehicle - which we aren't and don't plan to be for many years, if ever. But renting adds significant cost to a vacation. So the only way that math works is if the cost of ownership, including fuel and maintenance, of the EV is sufficiently lower than that of the ICE to cover the difference. I've not put finger to keyboard to figure that out, but it might be possible. However, we may be mixing terminology. I said "unplanned" and you said "planned". My meaning was that we planned to go but weren't exactly sure where. In the latest trip we knew were were leaving on a given day and had no reservations until the next night in New Orleans. But we wanted to travel the back roads through SE OK and into LA. Then, along the way we decided to head for Monroe and go to Natchez the next day and from there to New Orleans. And with this scenario an EV currently doesn't work. But renting an ICE would. Is that what you meant?

Jim - I'm not saying electric vehicles are not good for some people. They just do not fit in the kind of driving we do. Our trips frequently aren't planned, and certainly aren't planned around where we can get an electric vehicle charged. Plus, we like to take the road less traveled. And speaking of that, we took off west out of Katy TX when it was time to come home because we weren't about to go back into Houston to go north on the interstate. That took us up into the Hill Country of Texas where Tesla charging stations are few and far between. In fact, looking at the list I didn't find any where we went. As for how far we drove between fillups, the little GLK is getting ~35 MPG and we routinely put in 500 miles per tank.

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of electric vehicles. But currently the infrastructure doesn't support the kind of driving I do. That list is supposedly the latest from Tesla and I can't get out of Oklahoma to the southeast. And similarly, a few years ago we took the back roads out of Oklahoma to the west, and we couldn't have done that even today with a Tesla. That's a show-stopper for me. I had this exact conversation with a friend yesterday, who called to ask what vehicle he should buy in six months or so. We discussed the driving he does, which originates in SE Oklahoma or NE Texas, and came to the realization that an all-electric vehicle currently won't cut it. Having said that, the time may be coming when electric vehicles can do it given the work being done on new battery tech. On the other hand, the fuel cell may beat them out. Much has to be done to make either happen, but the fuel cell might be the easier one for which to build out the infrastructure. Last I knew there was no standardization of charging systems for electric vehicles, but that should be an easy thing to do for fuel cells.

A few weeks ago Janey and I took a trip down through southeast Oklahoma to see the trees changing and enjoy the "mountains" on our way to New Orleans. We had no reservations for the night and ultimately wound up in Monroe, LA. But looking at the map just now I see that we drove over 250 miles while going SE in Oklahoma, but looking on the list of Tesla superchargers I see there are none down that way. Does that mean we couldn't have gone there? Janey gets really nervous when the fuel gauge gets below 1/4 tank, so "just making it" is not an option with her.

Welcome, Barry! Happy to meet you. What part of Maryland? Used to live just out of Wilmington, DE and boated at Conowingo Pond. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add with if I had a town and your permission. Post some pics of your truck?

My '84 Flareside was a stripped down model. Only two options above absolute base that I'm aware of are the 302 V8 and the gauges in the dash. Possibly the rear bumper too? I can't think of any other options on the truck. My truck has power brakes and power steering, but I think they were both standard equipment by 1984? I've seen manual brakes and manual steering Bullnoses, but usually only 1980-1981 models. The '83 brochure shows power brakes as standard, but regular cabs got manual brakes standard for anything lighter than a 250HD. However, the light Supercabs got power steering standard.

You and I both know Gary will be the one to cross that bridge, and the engineer in him would never let someone else cross it. Shaun - Do you read lips? But, you are right, although probably not for the reason you are thinking. I just realized that I don't have a new oil pump drive shaft to spin the Melling M-84D pump Scott supplied. And while it is a standard volume/standard pressure pump, he didn't think the shaft from Huck's engine, shown below, looked good enough so recommended a Melling IS-84, and suggested I buy it locally as it won't cost much. However, we don't have much locally so I turned to the internet, and that shaft is $18 but won't get here until Wednesday. But, I found a Milodon 22570 4130 Chrome Moly for a bit more that will be here on Monday. So, I can't put the pan on until at least Monday and I might as well take the time to make sure it doesn't leak.

LOL! I'm sure that was done before we talked several times and he realized I'm a by-the-book engineer. So I'd have seen in the FSM to put RTV there. But, I appreciate the help. As for the dip stick flange/adapter, it does look dry. And I could probably button up the engine tomorrow if I don't wander off on that quest.

Not sure I understand what you mean about having to have no EGR, but a carb from a non-EGR truck will work just fine. However, if you use a distributor from an engine with EGR you will need to have it recurved. That's because the inert exhaust gas that is introduced into the air/fuel mix slows combustion significantly, so they give a lot of ignition advance via the vacuum advance unit. So if you do away with EGR and use a dizzy w/o recurving it you are likely to have at least pinging if not detonation. As for your question earlier, I think the YF is a non-feedback carb and the YFA is a feedback carb. But I can't prove that. Concerning the spacer to block off the EGR, David found one in this thread. Don't know if it still there. David/1986F150Six has a Carter YF 4901 S carburetor [from 1970 F350 with 300 engine] on his engine and it works out really well.

Welcome, Jebediah! Glad you joined. I'll forgo the Aggie jokes, although having lived in the Houston area I've heard a bunch of them. So, what are your degrees in? Are you still in school? Hope you'll share some pics of your truck. We really enjoy seeing them.

Well, the valve covers are now on. And I did it according to the directions: Rearmost forward? I would have never guessed that. Instead, I'd have started in the center and worked out. Anyway, I also used the left-over neoprene gasket washers I had under the heads of the four center bolts on each valve cover. From two trucks worth I had plenty of good ones. But, to ensure they seal I used a q-tip and coated the top of the valve cover where the washers hit and then the tops of the washers with just a bit of PST. Hopefully that'll make them seal nicely. But the valve covers are on and the engine is now upside down on the stand, as shown below. I've cleaned the paint off the gasket surfaces and came across a helpful note from Scott: And if you don't see it: So now I'm cleaning the pan, which can't be powder coated because I don't think the seal for the dip stick flange would take the heat. But, speaking of that, I'm thinking of drilling the rivets out, tapping the flange, and re-installing it with The Right Stuff after powder coating the pan, just as I did on Dad's truck. That way I'd know the seal is good. However, I don't see any indication that it isn't good. Thoughts?

Got the lower plenum torqued down this morn using the sequence shown below from the '95 FSM on the Instructions tab. And I was certainly glad to have those instructions and that illustration 'cause the various types of fasteners was confusing. But it is together as shown. Also, the torque sequence is a bit unusual, probably because of the fact that some fasteners go in vertically and some go in at an angle. So I used the sequence religiously in steps of 10, then 20, then 30 lb-ft. But, on Step D where it says "Repeat Step C to make sure intake manifold is now fully seated" I ran Step C several times until on the final iteration everything was exactly on 30 lb-ft. It probably took five iterations to get there, and prior to that the vertical bolts always needed a bit more. And, I thought I'd show you a pic of the rear plenum/china wall seal. Remember that I put lots of RTV (Permatex Optimum Black Gasket Maker) on there yesterday afternoon and let it set up overnight. And today when I torqued it down the cured RTV pushed out a bit and proved that I have a complete seal.

Maybe so, Jonathan. Yours certainly is green and the tooth count appears to be 7 as opposed to the 6 on the yellow one, both going in the same direction.

I'm not 100% sure that is what it is said to be. The 1981 table for drive gears is shown below and that part should be blue, not green. And while a package is there with it, it is not in the package so we don't know that it came from the package. Yes, I do count 7 teeth. So maybe it is what it says it is. Can you compare yours to this one to see if the direction of the turns is correct and that I'm counting the teeth correctly?

You may be right on the squatting, Jim. Good point. But I disagree on the lack of emissions. Don't forget that the vast majority of our electricity is currently generated using fossil fuels. Granted those plants are more efficient than our little engines are. And, the percentage of fossil fuel generated power is dwindling as the company my son works for, as well as plenty of other companies, install solar and wind farms rapidly. On the other hand, the reduced maintenance and gobs of torque are certainly nice. Some day we'll get there, and we have to have trucks like this one in order to find and turn the corner. But I'm not ready as this one doesn't fit my needs.

I'm sure whatever went wrong will be fixed, but yeah, that wasn't exactly inspiring.It's actually been a non-inspiring week in general for Musk, here's Wednesday's pressure test of his Mk1 Starship: Despite picking on him sometimes, I still think Musk is the most important person in the country today. I really, REALLY want him to succeed. Yes, he's had some problems. But I, like you, want him to succeed. He's doing things that will transform the way we live in very good ways.And while I don't think the truck is going to cut it for what I do, we'll never turn the corner on electric vehicles unless someone makes them and lots of people buy them.Just look at battery-powered tools. Ten years ago they were toys. But today they are serious tools. And I think electric vehicles will get there. But, there are lots of things that need to be worked out before they replace everything.

I should have also said that while that "truck" has good specs, I have some doubts. Here's what is said: 250+, 300+, and 500+ miles of range 3500 lbs payload Towing rating between 7.5k to 14k lbs 250 kW charging Off-road performance with 35 degrees approach angle, up to 16″ clearance, and 28 degrees departure angle 100 cubic feet of exterior storage Since there are three versions available (single motor RWD, dual motor AWD, and tri-motor AWD) I'm going to assume that the driving range is in the inverse order. So a dual motor AWD, which is comparable to Blue, would have the 300 mile range - when not towing. But Blue has 600+ mile range when not towing. As for towing, let's assume that increasing the gross vehicle weight decreases the range proportionally. (It is probably much worse than that since you go from 4 tires on the ground to 8 and the wind drag goes up dramatically if you have something way up in the air, like Big Blue, but this makes it easier.) So, when Blue was towing Big Blue on a car-hauler the weight was 2.5 times that of Blue. And that would make the driving range 120 miles. But the distance we towed was 1000 miles, so the Tesla would have to stop every 120 miles and wait for a re-charge? In out of the way places that probably don't have a Tesla charging station? How many days would that have taken?

Yes, I'm sure that would be the thing to do. But, notice how it is squatting with just the ATV in the back? I think my tool box and its contents weigh more than the ATV. On the other hand, if its windows are any indication of how well it is going to work, I think I'll pass. Here's what one report said:

Ok, you've got info I'd like to have. I'll surely be doing this in the not too distant future, so how 'bout writing a tutorial on how to repair a steering column? Please? Pretty please?

Guess it is just one of those mysteries of life.

Glycol might not evaporate, but the other 50% of the mix can. How hot does your engine get? You seem to work it pretty hard, so maybe it is getting up over 212 and the water in the solution that gets pushed into the expansion chamber is boiling off?