Gary Lewis

Scott - Just added your pics to the page at Documentation/Accessories/CB Radio. And I also added the pics from the NOS one that was recently on ebay. See if I need to make any changes, please. And thanks!

I like the Dakota Digital ones better. I suspect many people wouldn't notice them, but would the "bubbly" ones. And I'm glad they didn't use a purple burled wood bezel. Doesn't look bad, but might be even better in the black weave.

That I can't answer. Since my truck didn't have factory cruise control I had already planned on an aftermarket system, and since all I needed was a speed signal, that is as far as I went with my research. I know with the aftermarket systems like Rostra that I have experience with, you can simply tap into a VSS wire to get a pulse/signal and it doesn't affect other users of that signal...in my case it was an ECU, but I assume all would be the same. I have zero experience with any of the Ford CC system outside of that sensor though... At 60 MPH the speedo expects 1000 revolutions/minute of the speedo cable. So, if the sender gives 8 pulses/revolution you'll be getting 8000 ppm @ 60 MPH. The cruise control doesn't have a clue what is going on other than the pulses it gets. But there is a lower limit below which the system won't engage. I don't remember what the lower limit is, but if that is 30 MPH then you'd at least need to have 4000 ppm for it to engage.

The relays should make a big difference on the amount of light awa peace of mind that the wiring nor switch will burn up. Let us know how much diff you see. On the fogs, did you go with oversized holes in the brackets? Or what was the plan?

Steve - I'm not sure where you saw that I used a G5, but I actually used a G8 bolt. So maybe I need to change my documentation? Please tell me where. I did this following TSB 97-03-10 which says: So, since I consider Big Blue to be heavy duty I did just that instead of going with the 9/16" G8 bolt, nut, and washers. But what is a "frame bolt"?

Grant - Welcome! Glad to meet you. A couple of things. First, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you. There you'll find you aren't the only Aussie, although Darin is the closest and he's not close to you. But, he might be someone you want to meet as he knows how to get parts from here to there. In fact, he was here for the show last year. Second, it helps us help you if you have a signature that tells us what your truck is and has. It is really hard to remember, and we don't want to get it wrong. Plus, we like to call people by their given names, so you can put yours in the sig - if you'd like. It is up to you. Anyway, where are the pics of the truck? We have a saying that w/o pics it didn't happen, so.... And, you'll want to start a thread or threads in the main section about your truck. (More people see it in the main section.) Welcome!

Yes!

Should be lots of them around. Any 1980 - 84 in the salvage with a radio had one. And since many people changed out to the later style there should be lots sitting on the shelf. Maybe someone on here?

Do you mean 10A860 in the illustration below? That plate is separate from the radio and is required to mound a shaft-mount radio in these trucks. The nuts (355987) and washers (351487) retain the plate to the radio and then the screws (56910) hold the plate to the dash.

Yes, looking at your pic it would take extreme cutting on the bumper to clear that hanger, and that would weaken the bumper dramatically. Even spacing it looks like it would require some trimming. And I expect to do some of that on the Warn bumper, but we will see.

Jeff - I'm not sure I understand. If by "transfer case adapter" you mean the thing circled below, in Ford-speak that's a "Housing (transfer case differential)". And it is specific to the transmission and not the transfer case. Said another way, Ford transfer cases swap easily, so you can put a BW1345 or 1356 where an NP208 was.

Nice and clean! Looks like 460 perches - right? All new steering linkage?

That has to be frustrating! But you'll get there. And, it sure looks good!

Was that just the $20 off anything coupon, or specific to that compressor? On line it still shows full price of $169.99. And, btw, on line it says "Compare to California Air Tools CAT-2010A at $189.00. Save $19.01." They had the CA compressor in their sights.

We don't have any diagrams on the site for belts, and I'm not finding anything in the master parts catalog that helps. But tomorrow I can see if I have a factory shop manual that helps. So make sure you take pics. To remove the belts, you probably have a smog pump either above or below the alternator. One or both of those things will loosen to let the belt go slack. On the other side the power steering pump usually has a sliding bracket on it where you can loosen two or three bolts and slack the belt enough to get it off. So you shouldn't have to remove the pulleys. The belts should come off over the fan, and have to go back on in the reverse order.

Yes, "D" in 1981 & '82 was the 255. As for support, there's not much of it. They discontinued it pretty quickly as it wasn't very popular. But, it has the Windsor perches and bolt pattern on the transmission, so a 302 or 351W would be an easy swap. I think it would be bolt-in save for the exhaust, which is different because the manifolds are farther apart on the bigger engines.

It looks like it's gonna take a lot of trimming to get that bumper back on. Once I get everything installed, maybe I'll start thinking about a custom bumper. In other news, I started work on drilling what feels like a million holes in my frame. I've been relying on the crude measurements of the original rear spring hangers that Gary provided via his digital caliper. Initial mockups tell me that attaining 54" from eye to eye is achievable with no modification of the front hanger. The inner frame box pieces seem like they'll be okay as well, but I won't know for sure until I move up to the front section of the frame. My 4x2 frame does not have the original spring hanger box for reference so I am having to go off of the upper most bolt holes for the front spring hangers. I am lucky in that my frame already has what I will refer to as "bricknose bumper holes", which is one of the mounting points for the spring hanger. I'm hoping for some good sunny days in the future, but Florida is unpredictable, and sunlight is scarce once I get off of work. I scheduled a two week vacation from work next month, and so if I can't find the time to work on this within the next 15 days, I will have all the time I need to finish it during my vacation. One advantage, I think, of the Warn winch bumper.

Pics added to the Step page.

This is a hobby and there's always tomorrow.

Cory - The window looks great! Well done. Dane - I agree. I'm building up a backlog of places to take Big Blue when he's ready.

I loved Arte! Your '86 is carb'd and the '94 was EFI'd, although speed-density and bank-fired. IOW, no mass airflow sensor. I hope with MAF and SEFI Big Blue's 460 will be more responsive. And, by the way, the '82 has a manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor.

Or, if you'd like to decode your own you can do so here: Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label.

You are now on the map. As for being new to forums, no worries as we don't have any rules about where you can post. But typically this New Members section is for introductions and the main section is used for threads about our trucks. (Then there's the Projects section, which is kind of confusing.) You signed your post as "J". We like using names here, although it isn't necessary. But if you'd like to add a name to your signature it might be easier to respond with a name than typing hubcityford each time.

Welcome! That’s a good endeavor and I’m sure you can do it. But you’ll want to start a thread in the main section to get the most help as that’s where the bulk of the members look. We have a member’s map (Bullnose Forum/Member’s Map in the menu) and I’d be happy to add you if you’d like. A warning is that Haynes is generally good, but doesn’t get into specifics. However, we have a lot of the sections from the factory shop manual on here and they are much better on the specifics. And if you don’t find what you are looking for let me know. After all this time the gas will be bad, and the tank may be as well. Don’t try to salvage the tank as a new one is about $100 and saves a lot of headaches. As for starting the engine, I would pull the distributor and reach down with a long extension and socket, all taped together so they can’t separate, and turn the oil pump to prime the oil system and lube the bearings. But after changing the oil.

That is explains the holes, but not how the frame got there.