Gary Lewis

Cory - If you really want to know I might be able to find it by climbing the Microfiche Tower and perusing the 1982 MPC. But that will have to wait until probably Saturday as I have a Horrid Fate awaiting me today and we have a funeral at church tomorrow for which we are helping. If I forget, please remind me.

We got lucky. It isn't normal for the ID or Engineering # to be shown in the description. Fortunately I have the MPC OCR'd so can search for things, and there it was.

Did you try turning it landscape? I did and it worked better. Could almost see all of it. And, when I used the drop-downs I zoomed in and it helped. But it is tricky, I'll agree to that. However, I don't know how to fix that. And, y'all missed a glitch in the wheel diameter drop-down and it was showing the aspect ratio options. But I've fixed that now. Anyway, thanks! Keep on poking around.

Hey Gary, I finally got a set of the factory brackets that I was originally looking for back when I started this thread. The front swaybar I have is from a 4x4 F150...year unknown, but I believe 1991. I've read several times previously that the swaybars were all the same, at least the 7/8" front bars. What changed was how they were mounted, apparently? I was looking at the parts list, and it looks like the E9TZ-5482-C fit all 2wd F150 and all regular F150 4x4 trucks. It's a bit confusing as there was also the E0TZ-5482-A before it, that fit both light and HD 4x4 F150's... Is it safe enough to assume from this parts list that the front bars were all the same on the half tons? Or, at least later on by the time the E9 bar came out they were all the same? Congrat's on getting the brackets. But I'm not quite sure how to answer your question. There are obviously two different part numbers, E0TZ-A and E9TZ-C, both of which are said to fit both 2wd and 4wd trucks. But there had to be some differences or there wouldn't be two part numbers. They must mount the same way, so I'd guess that the difference is in the diameter. And the fact that the E9 is said to not be for the snow plow option and the E0 is said to be for the snow plow as well as the F250's tells me the E9 is the lighter bar. Does that answer the question?

Thanks! I've also taken away the t-case ratio cell and added the Other cell so that you can add whatever t-case ratio you want, just like you can in the transmissions. Should provide adequate flexibility. Yes, it also says Big Blue will hit 194 in 4th @ 5000. Somehow I doubt it, and I sure don't want to do it.

Dave - I look forward to the thread. That frame rot looks awful. But it looks like you've reinforced things just a bit.

And, I think I have a solution to the odd t-case ratio sticking out there. I'll add a t-case option called Other and let the user input his/her ratio in the table next to Other. That way the ratio doesn't need to have its own visible cell where someone could type in another ratio. Thoughts? Or did I make it really confusing?

Alright, the drop-downs are now working. Please check it out and let me know.

Ok, hold off for a bit, please. Something isn't right on the drop-downs......

Yes, it easily could be something else since you changed a lot of things. But here's what I'd do: Pull the two little wires. Then take a jumper and go from the battery's hot terminal to the little S terminal. That should pull the relay in and crank the engine - so make sure it is in Neutral with the park brake on. If that works the relay and other wiring but the ignition switch are good. If not, now we have to start testing things. But it may well be a ground.

Over the holidays my son taught me how to do drop-downs in Excel. And, I researched how to determine a tire's diameter from the sidewall markings. So I incorporated those features into the calculator at Documenation/Driveline/Calculator. But I'd like y'all to take a look at a couple of things, please. Is it obvious how to use the drop-downs for tire size calculations? Is the transfer case selection process obvious? Is it necessary to have the transfer case low ratio shown when you select the transfer case? I'd like to eliminate that as it seems confusing, but it does allow you to enter your own ratio there if you are using some t-case that isn't in the list. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

That's kinda hard to get my head around, so let me rotate it. Ok, maybe now, although the orientation of the relay looks basically 1/2 turn off of where I'm used to it. Have you tried moving the small wires to the other small terminal? Or, better yet, remove the small wire that is not red/lb and see what that does. And if it doesn't work then move the r/lb wire to the other small terminal.

Welcome. We got lucky that the ID #, not part #, was in the master parts catalog. (Henry Ford: "A number on a part is not a part number." As far as I know, he didn't say that, but he might as well have.)

It was the release bearing. When I grab it with my hand and shake it, it moves all over the place. No doubt that's where my rattle came from. It stopped when the clutch was engaged since that put pressure on the bearing. It sucks because my clutch disc still had plenty of life left in it. But I installed Luk everything including the slave cylinder (I always replace internal slave cylinders no matter what) so hopefully I'll be trouble free for awhile. All I have left to do is bench bleed the master (mandatory on Rangers) and then gravity bleed the slave and all should be good. Yep, M5OD-R1. The shifter is a Hurst. I love the feel of it, and I love the adaptability of shift levers. What I don't love, is that they either leak, or cause pressure build up inside the transmission. There's no in between. It's also very noisy without rubber spacers between the lever and the stub, but all the ones I've tried disintegrate on me so I just run it metal to metal. I've heard nothing but good regarding Core, but can't speak for whether they have the same issues as the Hurst. I just run Mercon V, but have thought about running an alternative fluid at some point. Glad you found it.

Does this help?

My wife said the material won't cost much, so that's not an issue. But on the cost of getting it there, I'll chat with my friends at the place where I ship lots of Ford things (I'm know as The Ford Guy) and see what the best envelope size for shipping is and what the cost will be of getting it there and then let you know. I'm guessing that an A4 (8 1/2 x 11") size will be best, but a bit bigger would mean less folding and less bulk. Jim - Tyvec would be good, but I don't have any and this stuff is similar, just not as heavy nor heavy duty. But it is lots sturdier than paper and won't be harmed if it gets wet or smashed.

Yes, the only dimension that will be different is the fore/aft one. My wife has some stabilizer material for her sewing that looks like it is ideal as it won't rip nor stretch easily and yet it is lightweight. She doesn't have enough for this, but we will going out tomorrow and will see if we can get some more. Then I'll clean off the work table, pin that stuff down, lay the headliner on top and trace around it. Should fit nicely in a small envelope and I can mail it to you. So email me your address. You can click on my name in the response and click on Send Email To Gary Lewis. And I'll also measure the thickness of the cardboard. It isn't anything special and you should be able to get something close in size.

Maybe better would be to trace it on a piece of paper and send that to you. Perhaps two pieces of what we call "newsprint" taped together would be wide enough. I'd be happy to do it if I had the right headliner. But all I have are headliners for regular cab trucks. I wonder if you could just add how ever many inches to it in the middle?

Welcome! Let us know how it works, please.

I wonder if someone here could measure a Supercab headliner and you could recreate it from a heavy cardboard or very thin plywood there? Then just have it recovered with a material of your choice? It is just a flat piece of cardboard with fairly regular dimensions, so shouldn't be difficult.

After lots of looking, with many dead ends, I'm back to Rock Auto's site. (I hope that link works.) And on that page the third one, the Standard Motors EGV242, the one with the heart, opens up to this page, and if you look it says it replaces CX452, among hundreds of other #'s. I think that's the one I'd go for.

Yipes! That's expensive. Is there a chance you can find the headliner from a later truck and, at worst case, have it recovered?

I didn't notice that. Like you, I've never seen one like that. Hmmmm, let me Google this a bit more.....

Your automagic camera is the issue. It adjusts every scene to the same overall lighting. So the only way to make it work is to take the first pic, note the aperture and shutter speed used for it, and then set the camera to manual and dial in those settings. That takes the light sensor out of the equation and you get a good comparison. But, I believe you that there is a huge difference.

Do you have the trim above the door that holds the headliner in? See this thread for a discussion of that trim. And here's an illustration from this page (Documentation/Interior/Interior Trim) that shows the pieces that go there: