Gary Lewis

Jim - I'm seeing more light up as well as pretty much straight ahead, but not much more to the sides. Am I missing something? I guess I expected fogs to light up a wider area?

Thanks Other than sitting the last 4 years and need to go thru the fuel system again, most of the body work done other than after the doors to the rear is done to hardest part is inside. No one makes seat foam and I need it all and the covers I want are $1000 for just the 2 bucket seats and the rear another $1000. Forgot what the door panels cost but not cheap from what I remember. Oh I have to make the head liner as no one makes that either. They say it's only money right? Dave ---- Dave - While this is a Bullnose forum, please start a thread on your Javelin. You are family and we'd like to keep up on what our family members are doing.

The cabs didn't really change from 1980 up into the 90's. So I'm pretty sure the headliner from an '87 Supercab will fit yours. However, there may be some differences in the way the trim above the doors fits, so there may be some trimming. But you don't have the cardboard backing that the headliner upholstery was on? If you have that cardboard you can re-cover it.

But, I hear it was a dog, stock? LOL yes it was but getting 21+ MPG and a little lower pulling the trailer but I lived with it for 100K till it got a little boost LOL Just before the first year was up, had over 12K on it by that time, I had the LS clutch housing go bad and when I was changing that I went with 4.11 gears (from 3.08 I think it was) and that helped be less of a dog till I hit the 100K mark. Dave --- I'll bet the 4.11's helped the MPG as well? The Bullnose era was a time of change. You could see that change was coming, but it wasn't quite here yet. Engines were all over the map, with Ford offering the little 232 and 255, neither of which lasted long, and on the other end of the scale introducing the 6.9L IDI and bringing back the 460. But diesels weren't very impressive w/o turbos, and turbos wouldn't be available from the factory for a few years. And early versions of EFI were just being phased in for some of the gas engines, although it wasn't for several more years before all of them would get it. As for transmissions, the "little" engines had just gotten 5-speed manuals with O/D, but they weren't yet available for the "big" engines - which happened just a few years later. And the autos were either the gas-guzzling C6 with both no O/D nor a lock-up torque converter, or the AOD which was just for the "little" engines. But again, a few years later the E4OD came out and gave us both an O/D gear and a lock-up torque converter. Then there's the interior and options. The Bumps and Dents were mostly metal with a bit of plastic, and mostly utilitarian. The Bullnose trucks introduced a lot of plastic and more upholstery. In fact, by the end of the era even the door panels had fabric on the top-end trucks. And options included power door locks and windows. Basically, pickups were no longer utilitarian.

Yes, Happy New Year!!!! And yes, some resolutions. One of which is: Big Blue will make it to the show under his own power this year. Dave - I envy you having the truck to a point where you can start on the next project. Well done!

But, I hear it was a dog, stock?

No, it's definitely notchy and hard to shift when it's cold, and when I say "cold", I mean anytime that it hasn't been run/driven in a while. After a fair amount of driving...maybe 20 miles or so, it gets much easier to shift and the notchiness goes away. Shaun - I agree with Jim. I'd replace the release bearing while in there, especially if I found nothing else. Good luck! Dave - Have you checked your miles per tank? Do you know how far you can get, and do you have a trip odometer? That's what I've been relying on with Big Blue as the gauge is wonky. Cory - I'd try Royal Purple's Synchromax. Here's what they say about it:

Man, you aren't kidding on that! What was it Arte said? "Interesting, but ????"

Wow! Beautiful! The body is straight and there's no rust. Awesome!

Can't mess it up with bigger cables. You've probably put the little red/light blue wire on the wrong terminal on the relay/solenoid. The later relays have two pins coming out, one for the r/lb wire and one for fuel pump control. The r/lb wire usually goes on the front of the two smaller terminals. Another possibility is that you didn't get the relay grounded to the fender. It grounds through the screws that hold it on, so is they aren't tight it won't work. And another is that you left one of the fuse links off. But if things are working in the truck that didn't use to, then it sounds like you got most of them on.

Congrats! That sounds like a LOT of work, but it seems to have panned out well. (I'm sure you can weld the down-pipe up.) Should make a huge change on your Bronco.

Yep, it looks like you'll have to move those holes. That was an area of concern on Big Blue as well, so I'm familiar with the drill. But Erik assured me that the clamping force of those bolts, 5 if I remember correctly, easily plants the bracket even if you enlarge the holes.

I think a generic one will work just fine. But, I've done some Googling about this. This document cross-references to Tomco's part numbers. If you look, E0AZ 9D448-C, which is Motorcraft # CX-452, is shown as E0AZ-C because the "9D448" bit is common to all Ford EGR valve part numbers so they drop that. So they list it this way. OEM # TOMCO OE STYLE STYLE E0AZ-C 10422 30201 So I'd be looking for a Tomco 10422, and Amazon has one.

Looks great, Cory! Well done. We, too, will be staying in and watching a movie or two. And I'm sure we'll make it to 11 pm - somewhere.

You are now on the map! Yes, it is a BEAUTIFUL area! We've been there several times and never get tired of it.

Michael - Would that be Moosburg? If so, I can put you on the map, or just tell me where. I've been to that area. In Sept of 2015 we visited this church: Oh, and while in Germany we saw these:

Congrat's! That's great!

As you well know, I didn't find it. You did. Well spotted!

Thanks!

Angelo - So sorry to see that. Hope you get it fixed soon.

I don't know, Scott. Don't remember and haven't had the vent windows in or out very many times. Sorry.

54" is correct, but I'm not sure how critical that is. Erik said something about getting the shackle to hang down straight with no load, and I'm thinking that a little more or less won't be an issue. So, I'm wondering if you can rotate the bottom of the front bracket forward to bring the rear bolt hole down. I can't really see in the pic, but it does look pretty close to the top of the frame. Maybe drill the hole where you can and put it in place there? Can you bring the rear bracket forward any?

Yep, I agree there shouldn't be problems. As for the battery running low, my plan is to use the relay that currently parallels the two batteries to power the inverter since it is getting replaced with the Smart Isolator. I could leave it wired such that it comes on in either Acc or Run, or I could wire it to the switch on the dash and just not power the inverter until I want it.

Jim - Having the regular 110v outlets and a USB charging port certainly will be icing on the cake. But that has me re-thinking where to mount the inverter. Perhaps behind the seat would be a good place. That way I could run the USB power to a port on the dash, maybe replacing the ash tray, and could lean the seat forward to access 110 volts. That would minimize the big 12v cables to run it, although I may not run cables big enough to provide the full 3000 watts when I don't need that much power. But I'm on the fence on that. And, as we've discussed, I may utilize the remote port by having a switch in the row of them above the radio to switch the inverter on and off. It only pulls 1.2 amps while idling, so that's not an issue, but it might be handy to bring the compressor on that way.

Bob - Thanks! I understand the constraints on where to put things in a Bronco, especially an early one. But as Jim said, I plan to put the compressor, and maybe the inverter, in the tool box where there is both room and protection from the elements. So I have the room. As for why others aren't doing it, part of that may be the fairly recent advent of these smaller 120v compressors with decent spec's. When Jim first proposed this solution I did some checking on the older style compressors and the running and in-rush spec's were so high it would take a really big inverter to run them. But when he pointed me at the California Air unit he runs on his inverter it was a whole different world. The HF compressor pulls only 7 amps while running and 16 amps on in-rush which equates to 840 & 1920 watts, respectively. Easily doable on the 3000 watt inverter I'm going to use. But my main reason for asking you to weigh in was in the airing-up issue as you are the one that does that on a frequent basis. Would this be enough air to make that exercise reasonably short in your estimation? And it appears that it will be. Great! And I understand about the email and computer situation. Janey now has her own email address 'cause I get so much "Ford stuff". Anyway, I'm glad you are following along. You've helped so much many times and I value your input. So thanks!