Gary Lewis

I agree with Jim. But you can test your units by connecting a DVM on the low resistance scale to one, place it in a small pan filled with water, and turn on the heat. The reading should be of higher resistance than 72 ohms when the water is cold, and should then go to 10 or 12 ohms when the water approaches boiling. On the transmission, make sure your shift linkage is stopping in the detents on the transmission for each gear. If that's ok then there are a couple of other suggestions. First, a bottle of Sea Foam transmission treatment worked for me. Apparently things get gummed up when transmission sit, and something like Sea Foam helps clean the gum out. And others have said that a quick blast in reverse helped theirs. They got out where no one else would be, like maybe a parking lot after hours, and went backwards as fast as they could - safely.

Added a new advert: The 18-MPG Ford. It is a 1981 advert so it is in Documentation/Literature/1981 Literature.

I'd have to agree.

Yes, I'll need to make sure the driveshaft isn't too long.

Don't miss that the one listed is New/Old Stock, meaning it has never been mounted.

That's a good buy! Looks very nice.

Yes, that is cool!

Michael - Welcome! Glad you joined. What part of Germany? We've been all over Germany, and maybe to your place? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you. How about pics of your truck? An F250 Supercab would be rather large over there. Happy New Year!!!

By golly, you are right. So that has to be an 80/81 bezel. Right?

Oh yeah, I forgot the engine. My '72 had the 390 w/a 4bbl (QJet). Dad's had the 351M w/a 2bbl. Absolutely NO comparison. Don't think I ever towed w/the '72, but we had a 9 1/2' self-contained camper on it, and it handled it fine. Dad's wouldn't have shifted into 3rd gear.

Good question. And as one of the OLDer guys on here, I'll attempt to answer it. I don't remember thinking about the new trucks when they came out. But I do remember when Dad got his '81, albeit used. It had been several years since I'd had my '72 F250 and I was amazed at how much more modern the '81 seemed. But the body styling wasn't that much different than the Bumps and Dents, so it seemed like just a natural progression. It wasn't until '87 that the styling changed radically and, at least from the front, there was a big break from the styling of the earlier trucks. And inside as well.

What would Numberdummy say? "Another clueless ebay seller!" That is not part # E0TZ-10045-A. It is a radio bezel, and those are base part number 10044. But they have 10045 as an ID # on them. This one appears to say E6TB 10045A98 Custom, but it is clearly the early style with a shaft-mounted radio. So maybe that is really E0TB 10045A98 Custom, and our handy dandy decoder says that would be an 82/83 with radio and w/o clock and mesh weave.

You sure do a good job of that, David.

Ok, so I just did a little test, and I put the end of a 1" wide straight edge very close to the center tread on each tire. I left a very small gap...almost touching the tire. All four tires have low spots...or flat spots. None of them have any high spots. On the worst one...the right rear tire, the flat spot is exactly where the tire was sitting on the floor. They right rear is the worst, but the right front actually has what appears to be two low spots. It was a bit hard to measure...it wasn't as even as the other three at least. Maybe that one has a broken belt. I marked each low spot with a paint pen, and then rotated the spot to the top before sitting it back on the floor. I'll leave it for a few days, and then check it again and see how they measure. I might take the two worst offenders to the tire shop and get them to check them on a road force machine and see what they see. A fresh set of eyes on a different machine. A broken belt can drive you bananas. Been there, done that, replaced both the engine and transmission trying to find it - to no avail. Had relatively new Michelins with multiple broken belts. Haven't had Michelins since.

Christopher - I understand being confused with calibration codes and parts lists. So let me walk you, and anyone else following along, through it. The first thing you want to do is to go to this page: Documentation/Calibration Info & Part #'s, and then click on the Applications To Parts List tab. Then scroll down in the 33-page document until you find your application. In your case that's on Page 16, and I see three possible parts lists: 95; 147; & 149. (If you look at #122 you'll find it is a 351W, so that's not for your truck.) Now, here's where the confusion starts. Which of those parts lists is correct for your truck? I've put those parts lists way below (I can't seem to get them all side-by-side) so we can see what is in them. And the first question that comes up is "Which item is the EGR valve?" As it turns out, that's either 9D475 or 9D448, as shown in the illustration of an EGR valve below. In your parts lists you only have the 9D448, so that's it. But, the listings give: #95 EOAZ 9D448-C (CX-452) Valve assy, (integral E.G.R. and back pressure—transducer) #E0AE 9D448-C1A.C2A #147: EOUZ 9D448-J (CX-482) Valve assy, (integral E.G.R. and back pressure—transducer) #E0UE 9D448-J1A.J2A #149: EOAZ 9D448-C (CX-452) Valve assy, (integral E.G.R. and back pressure—transducer) #E0AE 9D448-C1A.C2A So, two of them use the same EGR valve, but which is yours? You may find a sticker or ID# on yours that tells you what it is. But if not, I'd go with the one that fits two of the three codes. Hope that helps.

Probably true. And the tiny port is part of what keeps it so quiet - sound can't get out for the air coming in.

Scott - Thanks. I think the rest of you are lost in the FOG.

Yep, I agree. Saying it another way, the air in the tank behaves according the gas law, but the pump's efficiency is something that has to be measured rather than calculated for us mortal men.

Been thinking about this and just looked at the California Air Tools 2010A specs, which are 3.10 CFM @ 40 PSI & 2.20 CFM @ 90 PSI. And I remember lots of other compressors I've looked at over time didn't have neatly proportional spec's, meaning that CFM x PSI didn't equal the same constant. I've looked a bit on why this is but haven't found anything.

Which is why my dual-snorkel air cleaner was going to say "400HO" or somesuch in the same font as the 351HO's used. Wanted to see people scratch their heads as they looked over the factory cold air ducting on both snorkels.

Sean - Welcome! You may be the first person to join and be on the map before posting. (He contacted me directly and asked to be added to the map.) That's quite a story on the trucks. But 4,000 vehicles?!?!? Wow! That's a bunch! Is flipping vehicles what you do? Or? On your pics, they are really small. There are some suggestions on how to post pics on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page that might help get them bigger so's we can see then better. Or, just ask questions. You'll want to start a thread in the main section on your efforts on the '86. That area gets the most attention so more people will see your posts and questions.

Scott - Just added your pics to the page at Documentation/Accessories/CB Radio. And I also added the pics from the NOS one that was recently on ebay. See if I need to make any changes, please. And thanks!

I like the Dakota Digital ones better. I suspect many people wouldn't notice them, but would the "bubbly" ones. And I'm glad they didn't use a purple burled wood bezel. Doesn't look bad, but might be even better in the black weave.

That I can't answer. Since my truck didn't have factory cruise control I had already planned on an aftermarket system, and since all I needed was a speed signal, that is as far as I went with my research. I know with the aftermarket systems like Rostra that I have experience with, you can simply tap into a VSS wire to get a pulse/signal and it doesn't affect other users of that signal...in my case it was an ECU, but I assume all would be the same. I have zero experience with any of the Ford CC system outside of that sensor though... At 60 MPH the speedo expects 1000 revolutions/minute of the speedo cable. So, if the sender gives 8 pulses/revolution you'll be getting 8000 ppm @ 60 MPH. The cruise control doesn't have a clue what is going on other than the pulses it gets. But there is a lower limit below which the system won't engage. I don't remember what the lower limit is, but if that is 30 MPH then you'd at least need to have 4000 ppm for it to engage.

The relays should make a big difference on the amount of light awa peace of mind that the wiring nor switch will burn up. Let us know how much diff you see. On the fogs, did you go with oversized holes in the brackets? Or what was the plan?