Gary Lewis

Thanks. Check Big Blue's thread in a mo..... I'm wet, but got the measurements.

I agree that it is too small. So I really need to think through this BEFORE finalizing the plan. One reason is that the trailer feed now goes from the passenger's side across the radiator support to the trailer brake controller. But that makes no sense when there will be a large PDB on the driver's fender with a serious feed to it from the main battery. So, if there is a Trailer fuse in the '96 PDB then why not use it and dispense with the fairly-large wire running across the radiator support. I'll check that out. Also, there's a wire in the harness running across the radiator support that triggers the starter relay. I need to figure out what it does and if it is needed. If so, I probably need to connect it as I'm doing this PDB.

1. Yes, it should have been but now is. Well spotted! But please check that I did it correctly. Thanks. 2. Not that I'm aware of. I wish there was a way. What I've done is to email them w/a permalink to the post. Or, in cases where I have their telephone #, text them.

My first cuppa hasn't kicked in yet either. But it is starting to, slowly. I do have info that may well help as the 460 was EFI'd before the end of my MPC, and little changed before the 460's demise. I've purposefully made these pics as large, filewise, as possible to maintain as much detail as I can. So tell me what part numbers you need from this. Here's the E-Series: And here's the F-Series:

Just starting my 2nd cup, but my cups are large ones...lol. I've already been out to get my bagel and Timbits for the dogs. Yes, so I was wondering what intake parts interchange either between E-series models, or will any parts from the F-series transfer over? Any commonality in intake parts between a 351 EFI van and one with a 460 EFI? I was reading that the lower half of the air filter housings are all the same, but that the upper part and ducts between it and the throttle body vary between engines. It doesn't matter all that much right now anyway...all we have at the moment is a handshake deal...this thing is not in my driveway yet. But...seeing as how everything is being shut down around me, I might have some free time to go hunting around the junkyards coming up... I don't have documentation, like the MPC, for anything after 1989 so can't give part numbers. But from my limited experience I think your info is correct - the bottom of the air filter housings interchange between the engines, and probably from F to E-series. But after, or above, that they are different. Having said that, I do have some F-Series 460 EEC-IV intake air stuff. That should be dual air tubes running from the top of the air filter housing to the throttle body, where the EEC-V has incorporated a MAF sensor so it is a single hose back to a wye where it goes to two hoses for the throttle body.

Pretty truck.

Yes, it does show which axle you supposedly have. But when you use the decoder here (Documentation/Specifications/Axle Ratios) you are presented with a conundrum. The certification label says the axle is "72", but for an '84 truck that says it should have a Ford axle capable of carrying 2,200 lbs. Clearly that isn't right as your rear axle rating is shown as 5,864 lbs. Can you post some pics of your rear axle? Especially the differential? And, does it have a tag on it?

I think we are on the same page re the tank switches. Should work quite well. And your paint pen test worked wonderfully. I'm loving it.

You HAVE been making progress. Well done! Now I know why I have a Starter fuse and a Fuel Pump fuse. I can pull the Starter fuse and still run the fuel pump to prime things. As for the hiccups, I'm expecting to have more than that. So you did well. But I think the extra fitting on the radiator may have to do with the fact that some of the EFI'd engines had coolant-heated air inlet systems. Small hoses ran to the throttle body to heat the incoming air. On the on-board charger, did you remember that it may well trigger the smart isolator, thereby paralleling the two batteries?

I had forgotten. You are right, Espy is highly-optioned.

I'll check tomorrow. I don't remember what it is. As for your 1/0 wire, I'm a bit worried that the #10 yellow wire isn't going to cut it to tie the two batteries together. As I get into this I'm going to see if I can install the EFI harness that goes across the radiator support during Phase 1. That way I'd have the large wire that ties the EFI PDB to the PDB I'm working on now, and I could install the Cole Hersee smart relay at the end of that wire and connect up the aux battery.

There are a number of wires. But each fuse is on the bus, so there's just the wires from the fuses. And most of the relay slots didn't have the 5th wire, the one on the normally-closed connection, but some did. And there were lots more fuses than needed. So I cleaned out probably 10 or 12 wires today, and then taped the ones for each relay together, making it much more manageable. Tomorrow I'll run the wires from the fuses to the relays, which will make it even simpler looking. Then, all I'm left with are the wires that connect to the harnii. We are on the home stretch! Once installed it won't look custom. It'll look like it belongs. And it won't look big as the battery will dwarf it.

Don't feel badly, I have a LOT of experience with the EVTMs, plural and still misplace things I know are in there. Having said that, I've realized that a pdf version of the EVTMs would be handy at times. The other day I was looking for a connector and that can be like looking for a needle in a hay stack. But, if I had the whole EVTM in a single doc as a pdf, it would be duck soup to search.

I think your way and Scott's way are easier. But I've been wanting to do this "upgrade", if indeed it is, for years on a Bullnose. And with the 1G-to-3G plus ammeter-to-voltmeter swaps, I needed to get into the wiring. But I didn't want that shunt still there, so.... And I needed relays. And..... things mushroomed as they always do with me. I'm going to be happy - when it is done. And the big FORD oval on the lid to the PDB is going to have people asking questions. As will the dual snorkel air cleaner, at least until the EFI goes on.

Looking good! I really like the underhood light and toolbox.

You can go here (Documentation/Fasteners/Fenders & Aprons) and see the ones Cory is talking about. And you can click on the box surrounding their part number and be taken to a pic.

Yes, all the wires have a base color and then two stripes. And if I didn't have the PDB going in the perfect spot I'd probably leave the fuse links in place. But I do so I won't.

Originally E2TZ 1015-D, it was replaced by E7TZ 1015-C r/b E7TZ 1015-B And it is: 15 x 7.0 5 bolt 5.50" circle E7TZ 1015-B 5 F 100/ 150—bright argent

For 4-speed overdrive transmissions: 80/83 F 100/350,U150 4 O/D EOTZ 7277-H Trans, shift lever inner dust seal, also serv. in 7210 assy.

I did get the alternator back together, and I did get the retainers in PDB out, save for the retainer holding the diode terminals in. And since I am using one of the diodes, that means I'll just have to roll the wires to the other one up in the PDB. Then, with the retainers out, I pulled out the wires and terminals that I won't use. And, in doing so, I worked through the diagram shown previously for the PDB. Sure enough, there were several problems. I now have those sorted and I think the diagram is correct. Tomorrow I'll tie together the fuse, relay, and diode connectors inside the PDB and then populate it and test it. If it works properly I'll re-install the retainers and call the PDB good. And at that point I'll pull out the partial harness I have, remove the fuse links, and extend the wires to reach the PDB. Speaking of the retainers, here's a shot of the PDB with the retainers in place. I've circled where the clips are that have to be released in order to get the retainers out. Most of them are easily released, but the two inside the circle in the upper left were particularly tough. The retainers are buttons made of the black plastic of the PDB itself, and they face each other. I finally got the released by pushing a screwdriver in there that was just the right width to push to the two buttons apart and got the retainer out - without breaking anything. And here's what the PDB looks like w/o the retainers: The shot on the left is of the bottom with all the wires in, and the one on the right is with the extraneous ones removed:

Well said.

Ouch!

Beautiful! You've really done well.

Wow! It is looking great! As for the vent hose, it goes up the shift lever, inside the boot. See if this helps:

I think your screen is stuttering. Look again. Yes, I forgot to check. Thanks.