BigBrother-84

Well, I have to apologize... Guys at Ford did it idiot proof. The connector is wired to one of the two twin blades, the other one is left blank: Clutch Pedal released (up): Circuit normally closed: Clutch Pedal depressed (to the floor): Circuit opened: Gary, about the "or" question, I read you but still don't understand how depressing only the clutch pedal (without touching the brake pedal) could send a 12V signal to the SC Module.

Gary, about the Clutch Switch «normally opened» or «normally closed», mystery solved. The NOS E4ZZ-9A819-A - Manual Transmission Clutch Switch I bought (sealed in original Ford package) can be wired in ether of these two behaviors! This is far to be idiot proof! I wrongly presumed that the two metal blades on the same side were simply a "split"of the same terminal. In fact, one is normally opened and the other normally closed. https://youtube.com/shorts/ZaUskBverC8?feature=share But Gary, this doesn't solve my "or" questioning, still not clear for me.

Gary, I'll test again this morning the Clutch Switch, to confirm its behavior. We'll see. But about the action of the Clutch Switch (normally opened or not, I'll test again), I do not understand the «or» in your sentence and in the Dealer Installed Speed Control instructions: This implies that, whichever of the brake or clutch pedal is depressed, a 12V signal goes to the SC Module. However, the Clutch Switch is linked to the cold side of the Brake Switch... How can it send a 12V signal while the Brake Switch is cutting the circuit? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

The red text is mine. I tested the Clutch Switch and was surprised to discover that it is a "normal opened circuit" until the pedal is depressed. Then (clutch released, pedal to the floor), the switch closes the circuit, enabling a depressed Brake pedal to send 12V to the Brake Lights and, therefore to the Speed Control Module.

I agree, not very clear. They seem suggesting to attach (hang up) the control module to the main dash harness. CLUTCH SWITCH CONCERNS: I am wondering about the clutch switch action. From the SC Dealer Installed Kit instructions: From the Clutch Switch instructions: Automatic transmission: When brake pedal is depressed, the speed control module receives a signal from the brake light switch (Speed Control will disengage) and the vacuum pedal switch releases the servo. Manual transmission: • Clutch Pedal depressed: Same as AT, when brake pedal is depressed, the Speed Control Module receives a signal from the brake light switch (Speed Control will disengage) and the vacuum pedal switch releases the servo. • Clutch pedal untouched (up): The Clutch Switch cuts the brake light signal (circuit opened), so the Speed Control Module will NOT receive the brake signal if the brake pedal is depressed–which isn't a good idea while not depressing the clutch pedal, let's say. Although the brake pedal will still cut the vacuum action. I don't see how depressing the clutch itself is supposed to disengage the Speed Control (without touching the brake pedal)... Any thoughts?

I agree, not very clear. They seem suggesting to attach (hang up) the control module to the main dash harness.

Was too excited, cannot wait. Just try to hear the pump noise, for fun:

Guys, believe it or not... I bought a new fuel pump, in order to keep the functional old one as a spare backup. I had to put back the old, cause the new is defect. Piece of cr...

I agree that BB looks finished. But we all know he will never be.

Job done! Since we oil our trucks here in the North Rust Kingdom, I cleaned a bit the Oil Cooler (some of you explained me that this is not a suspension spring ). I suppose it will exchange heat easier with external air if not glued in the anti-rust grease... Excited to test if the Lee pump will be quiet and if the NAPA gear box will be smooth and comfortable. Will give feedback here after riding Big Brother on the road this weekend.

I had similar problem last winter (no lights and no crank, or yellowish cab light with a small "click" then nothing). I found that the starter solenoid wasn't working correctly (proved its internal contact was carbonized when I exposed its guts on in the bench). Changing for a new one fixed my problem. Until yesterday... no crank no lights again. This time, I discovered that the Ground battery cable (which appeared in good shape) was in fact "almost" broken. I inspected it last winter and didn't detect the failure. I am now pretty sure it was the real source of my cranking issue. Even the ground cable "appears" to be ok, I suggest to change it. Doesn't cost a lot and easy to do. In my case, it would have avoid a new Starter Solenoid buy.

I confirm Safari v15.6.1 (Mac OS Big Sur) and Safari iOS 15.7.1 have no issue to login or any kind.

Big Blue is kitted out and looks sharp!

Today's THE Day. I anticipated some difficulty unbolting everything, more particular about the pulley (doesn't come with the new pump). But everything went well, absolutely no issue. Progress!

Happy Birthday Gary! That's a nice Birthday Gift!

Gary, as usual, you answered before I asked! That explains very well the differences between E2TZ, E3TZ and E4TZ. Talking about this latter, I just received a NOS E4TZ-9A818-A. Here are pictures of the unboxing. I'll send you the scanned installation brochure and other documents (PDF), so you'll be able to add them to the Library. First, here is the E4ZZ-9A819-A - Manual Transmission Clutch Switch, which has to be purchased separately: And the Dealer Installed Kit (E4TZ-9A818-A): 1- Unboxing: 2- Packing List: 3- Installation Guide (will send you the full 16 pages scanned PDF): 4- Mirror-clipped Instructions (do I have to leave it there??) 5- Electronic Module: 6- Servo & Vacuum: : 7- Control-switch Lever (Ford updated the 1984 package to enable 1986 installation). I am wondering why there are a Low Beam and a Horn symbols on the lever, on the "Mirror-clipped" instructions... The lever in the box has only the Low-Beam one. And what is it for, anything to see with the floor Low-high Beam switch? 8- Harness: 9- Speed Sensor: 10- Brake pedal switch and other brackets :

Hi Alex, I'm in the exact same situation, follow the link above. Here the basics I learned recently: 1- There are two type of Cruise control systems (also called by Ford "Speed Control". So let's use «SC»): • For Bullonose era, vacuum SC type. • Later trucks got electronic SC type. 2- There are two types of Bullnose OEM kits: • The Factory Installed SC kit (FIK) • The Dealer Installed SC kit (DIK) There is also a "Gary Installed Kit", since Gary adapted a later electronic SC to his Bullnose truck. He related this in Big Blue's Transformation thread (you'll find the link in my thread). The FIK comes with a steering horn pads equipped with SC buttons. The DIK comes with the control buttons on an arm that replaces the turn signal left arm. Although these two OEM systems are "vacuum" based, they also rely on some electronic controls, module and relay. For what I understand, the main difference remains in their servo unit (which control a cable linked to the carburetor or fuel injection). Bullnose servo is vacuum operated, and the later servo are electrically motorized. With these basics on hands, I suggest that you join us in the thread I started and that ford4life mentioned above. I am presently learning the how to's, so come and join me! See you there!

Larry, maybe I didn't use the right terms. Reading at the article, I forgot that a "hot segment" is necessarily a money question for Bloomberg. I'm probably too "enthusiastic" about ol'trucks. I'll try to clarify my thoughts: Personally, I think that restoring a vehicle can rarely be profitable. It is really hard to get back his money. For some specialists it could be true, but in most cases you have to find elsewhere than in money for the "rewards" I'm talking about. If the main goal is money making, I think buying antique vehicles is usually a mistake. Sorry for Bloomberg. In my opinion, the «rewards» of owning an ol'pickup can be much more valuable than money. As my wife with her horses, it's more a question of proudness, pleasure, funny hobby and, most of all, good time with people sharing the same interests.

It looks really different than the Fatory Installed Speed Control. I am wondering about its behavior, does the Dealer Installed Kit operates more "smoothly"? Is it more/less "accurate", more/less comparable to a later electronic model... Or maybe it gives exactly the same result than the factory installed. Waiting for your road test and comments!

Thanks Jonathan for the precision! So, if I go with the Factory Installed Speed Control, a Rosewood horn pad will respect the "As Close To Stock" line I'm trying to keep with Big Brother!

«Owning a vintage pickup truck is more than just owning a vehicle—it's a lifestyle statement.» I agree. Could change some words, and it still describes my reality: «Owning a horse is more than just owning an animal—it's a lifestyle statement.» In all cases, take good care of them and the rewards will be yours.

Hey Gary, nice cockpit!

So, it woks! Good job!

Love it, so funny pict! The twins had fun dressing Li'l Blue, for sure I can't say if Bullnose Enthousiam is genetically transmitted or not, but they have a wide smile each time they're sitting in a (Blue) truck, Big or Li'l!