BigBrother-84

Hi, not a pro but went through these two issues: Q1- You should be able to access it from under the cowl, without unscrewing anything. Beside wiper motor passenger side, try to pry the two clips and push up: Q2- When I had this kind of trouble (one turning side didn’t disengaged when coming back to straight drive), I opened the turn signal assy and cleaned it. A puller is required to pull out the steering wheel. It worked some times but I finally had to replace the unit. Amazon, not too expansive. If you go that way, my advice, buy it new. I tried the "used part" way, it concluded by a fail, it doesn’t worth the time and effort. Be careful to order an identical unit, there are couple of "similar" out there, but won’t fit.

Hi there! I post on the forum from various Apple devices, the most confortable is my desktop Mac. The iPad works pretty well too, but suffers of the same issues that the iPhone when inserting pictures, bold and italic texts, hyperlinks or sometimes emojis: the cursor jumps anywhere in the text and insert at an annoying place… Worst device is my iPhone: It’s a 12 Mini (small screen), and since I updated it to iOS 16, the “path” menu is out of frame (I have to flip it from portrait to landscape to view the whole titles). My advice: when you insert something, touch the icon gently and verify immediately if it is at the right place. Be patient, and good luck!

Bullnose tailgate anti-theft system, working solution tested.

Matt, you’re right in. You’re proposal appears to be the only working one for our trucks. Considering that I almost never pull off my tailgate, I decided to go this way. Here are some picts, for those who would try it on their side. The goal is to replace the passenger “slut” pivot by a driver “round” one. Pay attention to get the right model. I first bought a wrong one at my local salvage yard. Different dimensions and diameter. I found the right one at LMC. Pulling off the “slut” pivot was easy (with the right Torx bit). You have to pull out the tail light assembly first, in order to access the hidden screw plate (which will drop). There are couple of holes in the body, and I found that the new “round” pivot (blue arrow) will not use the same than the “slut”one (red arrow). The upper hole remains the same (green circle). Also, the new “round” pivot looked a bit loose in the tailgate (for my taste). So I decided to make it a little tighter by applying a foam tape (one side sticky, leaving the exposed side with its plastic layer). The good thing is that it is also maintaining the pivot in place while manipulating the tailgate. Putting back the tailgate at its place is really tight, I had to make some paint touch up, although nothing serious. Here is the final result. I was really proud about this anti-theft system, showing this “success” to my wife. Who simply replied: «So if I understand correctly, they can steal everything in the bed but, fortunately, your tailgate will be safe? Nice…»

Larry, I confirmed that P&L doesn’t fit on our trucks… bought one, it’s a fail. I studied the question from all sides and concluded that there is only one viable solution. It’s a success, Big Brother’s tailgate is now secured. Will post here the solution. Stay tuned!

https://livecarmodel.com/products/1-43-altaya-1982-ford-f-150-military-ambulance-argentina-dark-olive-green-car-model.html

I love these blue touches here and there, really nice!

Looks good! Can’t wait to see the final result! Before I swapped for a repro dash, I had installed an oval speaker grill on Big Bro’s one… Not too bad, but wasn’t looking as the original. But looking much better than a big black hole.

Yep, I also run Bootcamp to boot Macs directly under Windows, but this is no more possible with Apple’s latest Silicone chips (M1, M2…). That’s why Intel Macs still be useful. Otherwise, Win emulators such as Parallels Desktop usually work well, if the running software isn’t to power hungry. We live in a Windows world, almost impossible to not run it occasionally. Ahhh, these good old days where even simpletons like me could understand an engine… 😜 Bill, did you post somewhere picts of these two babies? OMG! That’s one of the reasons guys like me need guys like you!

Gary, I sincerely hope for you, Bill, Jim and all other “Vacuum Master-Teachers” here, that there will never happen to come a newbie like me , rebuilding a really complicated Bullnose spaghetti vacuum system. It would take years to help him understanding his machine! That’s a chance for you guys that Big Bro has one of the simplest vacuum diagram that Ford ever made. Thanks again for your patience!

I didn’t see yours but I can easily imagine that they can look as this notorious Windows screensaver! Even if I’m on Apple since more than 30 years, I had no choice to work with Win OS, so I know it. And seems that some Mac aficionados found the way to install it on their Apple machines.

Thanks so much! All the restrictors I was finding on the web had different prefix numbers (yellow or red ones, all …Z-12A225-x parts).

Jim, when you say «charcoal purge», are you talking about the coal canister? This truck never had one, nor catalytic converter. There is an EGR valve, but I suspect it came with this replacement engine (around 2012 if I remember well). It is well caped and there’s nothing plugged to it. I started the truck and I heard the vacuum noise loud and clear from the cabin. I swear I never heard it before! Can’t explain… As shown on the following picture, Big Brother’s vacuum pattern is quite simple, there’s not a lot of things to “forget”. Anyway, I caped it, now quiet, job done.

Thanks guys! Jim, I pulled out the valve to give some blue paint refresh on the engine valves covers. It was quiet dirty, so I cleaned it thoroughly. Maybe this could explain why I didn’t hear this vacuum noise before? Anyway, going to cap it, thanks for the advice!

Jim, the distributor unit seems to hold vacuum. I made , creating some vacuum (with my mouth ), and the engine rpm accelerate.

Hi Gentlemen! I am making some cleaning underhood and I am wondering if I accidentally disconnected something... http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg Is it normal that there is an open inlet vacuum circuit, I don't remember it. If I , the engine RPM drop. Thanks for advice!

Gentlemen, thanks a lot! So my proposed setup isn’t stupid, yeah! Thanks to Jim, the parallel unobstructed tube now makes sense. Interesting AND logical 🖖. So, next step is to find a Vacuum Restrictor. With a good picture, I’ll probably find one at my local salvage yard. Question: Considering that Big Bro starts and idle very well, does he a need timing adjustment (I’m not equipped for, so a garage job).

Ok, here is the situation about rebuilding the PVS vacuum circuit: 1- Big Brother’s situation before my modification: I thought that the distributor was connected to the carburetor: With this Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA between the two: Well, it looked being connected… if there wasn’t a steel ball blocking the tube! Ok, so let’s start again: Big Brother’s distributor WASN’T vacuum connected, period. 2- Rebuilding the vacuum circuit: I installed a new PVS 3 port valve, and connected the “D” port to the distributor: Now, I have to plug the port 1 and 2 to something. Remember, I am rebuilding only the distributor vacuum circuit, not the "solenoid/throttle" one: 3- Questions: A) Plug the tube with Vacuum Restrictor on port 1 or port 2? B) Can I use the «Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA» as the "V REST" shown on the diagram? C) What’s the goal of such restrictor, since there is a parallel vacuum tube without restriction? Do I have to NOT install this not restricted tube? EDIT: Here is my proposal. But still doesn’t understand the goal of an unrestricted parallel tube…

Not a lot popping on the web, maybe my search criteria aren’t correct… Found one seal looking right, 27$: But Bronco Graveyard sells a kit that seems to contain the right seal, for 18$. I suppose the rear shaft seal is included, but not 100% sure:

Well, well, well… I just picked up the replacement TC (BW 13-45) rear shaft seal at the nearest NAPA. Really not sure they sold me the good part. This is the new I got: And here are some pictures grabbed on : They are absolutely not looking the same. Can someone tell me if I have the correct replacement part on hand?

No problemo, Bill, I got one, was stock at my local NAPA.

Aaaahhhhh... Now that Jurassic Die Cast looks better!

Don’t know if available somewhere…

Looks good!