BigBrother-84

I can add that sometimes (mostly when some residences are built close to), they pour calcium on gravel roads during summer time too, to avoid dust. I suppose that summer calcium isn’t better than winter one!

Unfortunately, here in the "Rust Kingdom", the answer is «because it's going to be anyway», due to the anti-rust stuff we have to spray underneath. Otherwise, I recently saw a guy who is restoring a muscle car. All body parts are painted yellow+clear finished, under car included. Very impressive, his paint shop is equipped with a "body handler" (?) that holds the entire car body and flip it so he can pivot and work on any part vertically. Note that this car will never ever see the winter.

Driven gear question: As you can see in my picts, the original cable Driven Gear has a long shaft. Everywhere I look, the driven gears for automatic transmission have a long shaft. Those for manual transmission have a short shaft... Is this explained by the fact that Big Bro is 4x4 and its driven gear is installed in the transfer case? Should we understand that driven gears for AT or TC have a long shaft?

Yep, now works for me!

Ok, confirmed: Drive gear needs to be replaced, kaput. BTW, you're right Gary, my TC is a BW1345. I need advices: 1- What color is the gear? What part number to buy? 2- What other parts to order? What will I need? Seals, rings, oil, etc. 3- Is there a step by step «how to for noobies» somewhere? Draining oil, unscrew this, support that, etc. 😉 Willing to go ahead, but don't want to stupidly break anything. And since I'm presently not close from any store, I want to be well prepared.

TJ, just be careful when you paste a link to another page, be sure to clean the double "http://" at the beginning (which is automatically added):

TJ, you inserted the same diagram twice. I think you’ll need to edit your post. I suppose this is the good one, the "PMGR" one: Also, maybe the issue is on my side, but the provided link doesn’t work: And please continue, I will subscribe to the “Noobie Guides" collection! Can’t wait for the next one!

https://classicfordtrucktrader.com/ad/1986-ford-xlt/ Not a lot of details, looks clean. Curious textured paint.

TJ, I assure you that you’re not alone here! LOL! You remember Christmas family parties, when you were kid, listening to the adults conversations all around and trying to understand what they were talking about? I often feel this way, while reading at some forum posts, more often when they look to be written in some strange Morse code (Tranny, Dizzy, ECU, EEC, DSII, PMGR, TTB, and so on). Hopefully, we’re no more in Enigma’s era, and googling this mysterious "secret code" usually gives good decryption results. What a satisfaction when you finally decode the conversation! It has no more to do with magic or the occult, you now understand, yeaaaaah… The guys on this forum are really cool with newbies, they are patient, take us by the hand, saying «oookay, kid, me/explain/you». I love this place, I feel free to ask ‘stupid’ questions, knowing that the Masters will take time to slowly elevate my knowledge. Please, continue to share your "noobie" experiments, you have a funny humorous style and… no need to google, that’s nice!

Ok, let’s suppose I’ll have to replace the drive gear, just for fun. Question 1: Is this as easy as ? Look much easier than when the cable is attached to the transmission. Question 2: How to identify the right replacement drive gear? I suppose the drive gear located in a transmission is different than the one located in a 4x4 transfer case? Question 3: How to identify my TC?

That makes sense. Since this is not a fuel pipe, no reason a plumbing tape couldn’t do the job.

Nice and clean artist’s job!

Gentlemen, what advice for PVS installation, any scellant, threads lock, or others?

I should receive the decal next week. Supposed to be their best quality, no bubbles, etc. Will keep you in touch.

Congrats! I really prefer to receive LMC catalog with a Bullnose on the cover page!

Sold!

You’re right, the driven gear doesn’t look so worn… After I recently changed the cable, the needle continued to jump, as usual. With the same usual “tic-tic-tic" noise coming from the speedometer. A little bit later, I changed the speedometer for a “speedo+tripo" model, hoping that will solve the two issues. Nothing changed, same jumping needle with the tic noise. That’s why I am now looking on the side of the gears… Since the driven one doesn’t appears so worn, I am afraid about the drive gear. No way to inspect it without opening the transfer case end?

Or, should I say 🖖

That would be logical that the easiest part to reach and replace is the more "fragile" one... But sometimes mechanic is fascinating but not logical. I'll see if replacing only the driven gear fixes my "jumping" needle.

Thanks Gentlemen! The Amazon one looks pretty identical to Big Bro’s. Which is a bit worn, not so much, 18T, same angle direction: Now, about the speedo drive gear… In your experience, is it stronger than the driven gear, so this latter will worn before the drive gear does? Or, too bad man, you have to replace the two gears? If so, can we trust the table, so Big Bro’s speedo drive gear should be white, part #E3TZ-17285-C:

Hi Gentlemen! I want to replace the speedo driven gear and I'm a bit confused about what to order... Here is Big Bro's one, gray, 18 tooth: Table shows that "gray" gear is part C7SZ-17271-B: But googling this number gives me anything but the gray. Well, almost, since I get one "gray" result on eBay, 75$ US plus shipping!! Amazon shows a "gray" result, 25$ CAD shipping included, but with a different number (C7SZ-17271-C): .

Yep! I am happy! I didn't verified, but the repair I made to the first "Sick Tach" was probably done correctly... I suppose this journey ended with spare unit in stock.

Ok, thanks Gary. So, in my case, it's ok leaving it blanked, since I don't have any carb positive current needs.

There are two identical red/yellow wires in #13 connector's pin (see precedent picture). I tested the "under hood" one and I confirm it is going to #13. I left it terminated as it was, and the Tach is working. I suppose its #13 twin is connected to the fuse panel.

Wow, nice truck! And I LOVE the colors!