BigBrother-84

In this thread, I suggested to Iowa Tom to verify that the manual transmission is not engaged while doing some starter tests, to ensure that the truck won't jump ahead. My friend Jim answered me that this should not happen, since there is a security switch on the clutch that cuts the ignition circuit if pedal isn't depressed. So this topic is specifically about this famous clutch switch. I never saw it in Big Bro... Jim - The problem with the diagrams reading is that they do not clearly indicate where the connectors/switches are located, neither how they look. If I had a better idea of what I should be looking for... But really, I didn't see any free connectors or switch around the clutch pedal. And while rebuilding Big Bro, I had a good view of the wiring. Any picture or description of this famous clutch switch? Maybe not under the dash, but somewhere else on the truck?

Happy to hear you found the problem. "Dead spot" starters are a running sore. There are probably some reliable brands that friends here can suggest? Jim - I'll start a new thread specifically about this "mysterious" clutch switch.

Coooool! Being a well know expert all over the world is something big, yeah! Gary, I am really excited to learn more about all your books and publications. Please share with us your bibliography!

Nope, no remote. And when I installed a NOS "Dealer Installed" speed control kit, it came with a brake and a clutch switches. Installing these, I didn't see any sign of such disconnected circuit, no cut wire or empty connector there.

Jim, I have the same diagram in 1984 EVTM. Identical. But it appears only for the EEC part, not for the Duraspark. Is it possible that the Duraspark ignition wiring doesn't have the Clutch Lockout Switch?

OK, I see... I don't have any of these "security switches" in Big Bro. Manual, not clutch safety, nothing.

Jim, I know you prefer the "jump +/S" terminals method. In my case, using a big screwdriver and jumping the two main terminals revealed that the relay was dead. The starter turned immediately as it should. If you use this hard way method, be aware that your screwdriver will do some sparks. Be sure your truck is on Neutral or Park position! If transmission is engaged, it will move ahead, this could be very dangerous. Just verify that the starter turns. Do not maintain the screwdriver-jumper too long. If your starter turns: A) The relay is faulty, or B) The purple wire doesn't make it close (no current coming from the ignition switch when turned on). You can verify if the purple wire sends current to the relay by simply using a light tester. Unplug the purple wire, put the tester between it and its terminal, and turn your ignition key to on. The light should come on if your purple wire operates correctly. If your starter doesn't turn with the screwdriver jumping method, it doesn't mean the starter is dead... Check all your connections, including the ground to the body and to the starter. I had another issue later, very similar, and this time I had to replace the ground cable itself (big black one, from the battery to the body/starter).

OK, I was in the same situation... I fumbled around and wasn't able to find any issue. Finally fixed it by replacing the starter relay. Curious... Normally, if you jump the two main terminals, you bypass the relay and send the current directly to the starter. The "click" you hear comes from the relay, or from the starter?

I am wondering about the blue oval over the radio opening (under the emblem you're planning). Is this a «sticker» you added, or is it moulded on the bezel?

Did it happen after you installed the headlight relays? Or you didn't touch anything, was working and now doesn't?

Of course…

🤣

Interesting project! May I suggest you asks Gary about “cockpit organizing”. Seems that there’s a missing gauge in your dash:

Just for fun, I just checked on eBay. Looks pretty expansive, over 100$ US. I suggest to verify at a salvage yard. I got mine (module+switch) for 25$ for the kit, at my local yard. No problem at all, works very well. The easiest upgrade I made to Big Bro. Plug’n play.

And, yes (I suppose), Alan you have plenty of space to keep them around and still have some piece of land "free of truck".

LOL! Two good news for the price of one, that's a deal!

I can testify that coil suspension makes a huge difference and is much more comfortable on bumpy road. I had the chance having Big Blue giving me a ride (he’s very kind 😉) to compare, and Big Brother’s suspension is much more closer to the old 1880’s wagon one. But despite its rough ride and brute comfort, I still love my old wagon.

Email sent. Bill, I know that the forum “mail” function isn’t always reliable. Please post me if you don’t receive it, maybe Gary could help me about this. —Jeff

Bill, you’re the man! I’m not looking for sparkling and shiny carb, if I could just have Big Bro’s working as new, would be my dream! I’ll send you an email for your address and see how I can ship it. No rush, as the truck runs well… after its cold start.

Well, Jim, maybe one of these days, around a good drink, we could discuss about some funny misinterpretation and comic translation mistakes. Guaranteed fun and laughs!

Ah, ok! Wasn’t sure if you were referring to the difficulty to park these machines, mainly for the dual wheels crew cabs, so long and “very large”. Thanks Jim for teaching me the right english!