The Deuce Build Thread

I think your plan on the electronic speedo is a good one.  And I like the plug.  

But that pinion looks like a problem.  You may have to heat that bearing.

Well I didn't have to heat it, but it was a very weird situation. I was thinking that one part was someone inside the other, like with a press fit. That was not the case. The triangular bearing piece, the oil slinger, and the yoke were all stacked on top of one another. It took several tons of pressure from the press to separate them, and they separated fairly dramatically.

After they came apart, I was looking at the top of the yoke where they were joined. Part of the oil slinger, about 90% of the circle of it, remained on the yoke. At first I thought the yoke had broken, rather than separated. But then I realized that the oil slinger was fused to both the bearing inner and the yoke. The 10% that stayed with the bearing inner looked permanently fused as well.

I'm not sure what occurred here. I can't imagine that the torquing of the pinion nut would have generated the pressures to perform this fusion. Possibly heat on the bearing from lack of lubrication? The o-ring in the pinion had a leak and I'm sure it got low at some point in the past. But that theory doesn't really add up either, as no part of the bearing looked heat-damaged.

I should have gotten a picture of it before I cleaned the remaining slinger off the yoke end with the belt sander...

I think what you are calling a slinger is part of the pinion yoke and dose not come off.
Have you tried looking for that slinger?
You won't find one as it dode not come off.

The inner race of the bearing should come off. If you ground a slot in it then took a hammer & chisel it should have split and came right off.
Dave ----

I looked at the assembly very closely to see where the parting line between the subcomponents was. The only one I could find was about an inch down inside the bearing inner piece, which corresponded with the bottom of that piece and the location of the piece I am calling the oil slinger.

I ordered a new oil slinger yesterday from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, item 22291. I saw a lot of different ones on ebay and other sites.

Here is what the yoke now looks like:





Which seems to closely agree with images I see on other sites, this one for example:

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c58_ford_9_inch.html

and here is what the slinger piece from my truck looks like now:



It's just a piece of sheet metal, it does not look to me like anything that was originally cast into the yoke. Later this week when the new slinger comes in, I'll compare the two. But it sure looks like the piece that is referred to as "the oil slinger" 25 seconds into this video on rebuilding a 9 inch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBih0TVtEto

Then there's the disassembly video from the same series, which takes the part out at the 12:48 mark. It's location would be between the yoke and the bearing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w4VL1zmTEQ

The only thing that concerns me about the yoke is the groove in it, apparently worn in there by the front pinion seal. That might be a leak point.

What I would call the slinger is that yellow part dont know what that washer thing is
I also did not check out any of the links

I was thinking the same thing on the groove ........ its not groovy man
Dave ----

the plastic collar is actually a deflector type shield to help keep dirt and debris from the yoke/pinion seal. it is external. the oil slinger resides just inside the case between the bearing and the seal to keep presurized oil from the seal itself. of course, the differential has no pump or resultant pressure but much like the way a timing chain cover can leak at the top, oil slung at a seam or seal directly enough can cause a leak

Thanks for that clarification, Mat. I was kind of puzzled why it was called an oil "slinger" when a) it is not in an area I would expect much oil in; and b) it has no scoops capable of slinging.

Calling it an "oil retention ring" or something like that would make a lot more sense.

its actually more of a splash guard/ shield. but what happens when you spin it? it slings. some engines even have them between the crank timing chain gear and the damper to deflect oil from the front crank seal.

Minor project update. I got all the parts in, got the rear end set up with the gear manufacturers recommended backlash (.008-.010, landed right in the middle), and got everything installed.

Some problems along the way:

- One of the axles was clearly not from an F150, the OD on the bearing area was at least .030" too small, and there were other weird differences as well. Had to source a new Yukon Gear axle from Summit.

- I had ordered 2 sets of "Timken SET20" bearings and lock rings from Amazon. One went on fine. The other, the bearing went on fine but the locking ring measured about .004" smaller than the axle shaft. Since the bearing pressed on without drama, the locking ring had to be at fault. Ordered another set from Amazon, same thing. My press (20 ton) could only get the lock ring about halfway onto the axle shaft. .004" does not sound like a lot, but that's way too much for an interference press fit. Chucked it on the lathe and very carefully took out a couple thou, then it pressed normally onto the shaft.

- The limited slip I installed (Speedmaster PCE204.1002) had some warnings on the box about proper fluids that were kind of cryptic, they said "mineral oil based, EP140, no split grades such as 85/140". I did some internet searching and didn't turn up much, so I called Speedmaster. They said they spec'd that diff around Lucas 10431, so the search was on. I have a Summit in the same city as me, so basically one day shipping, but they were out of it. Other places were also out of it, but finally found 1 jug left at Jegs. Ordered it up, waited 5 days, and received some SAE 50 Plus... ugh. Starting to remember why I stopped using Jegs... got all that straightened out and got the right stuff yesterday. It's basically green pudding in a plastic jug. Got it in the diff and was ready for test driving.

First, I wanted to make sure the 4wd was working, so with the rear still on jackstands, and the front wheels heavily chocked, I put in in 4x4 and drive. Light nips at the throttle showed that the truck was trying to climb the chocks, woo hoo! It all works!

Next, I configured the Quick 2 trans controller for proper rear end ratio, tire size, drive/driven gear counts and such. This landed the indicated MPH within one or two, compared to a GPS speedo from my phone. So I calibrated the electronic speedo, which consists of putting it in calibration mode, then pressing a button when you get to the start of a measured 2 miles, and pressing it again at the end. Then the speedo was also within 1-2 MPH of the GPS and the Quick 2.

Then I drove down to the gas station and filled it up for more test driving, and that's where I'm at now. It has been darn cold down here, just like the rest of the country, so I'm not getting out much, but at this point the 4x4 conversion is done and I'm back to problem chasing. Right now those problems include:

- Coolant leak somewhere - can't see it but I can smell it. Not severe, so not that worried about it, but I don't like the smell.

- Something is badly rattling in the driver side door. Need to pull the door panel and apply some loctite to something I would guess.

- The trans cooler in front of the radiator (from the 95, so had to make up new mounting arrangement) sits too far forward and interferes with the front grill being installed. Need to move it back.

That's about it for now, hoping for warmer weather soon.

Nice! Good job!

Kind of a pain getting the right things sometimes.

Thanks!

Seems even worse lately, I guess it's a lot of things stacking up. Hard to find good help, material shortages in a lot of industries, bad weather, and so on.

Onward!

Well done!  

Odd that the one axle was so small.  Was the OD of the original bearing the right size?  

Glad you were able to turn the lock ring to size.  What a pain.

As for the "pudding", it really seems strange that they'd spec something like that.  Seems awfully thick!

Anyway, you are making good progress!  

Some more updates. Got what was rattling in the drivers door tightened back up, and while I was at it I cracked open the passenger side and lubed the manual window mechanism. Installed a couple new window crank handles from LMC.

I went around and tightened up all the coolant hoses, which seems to have helped but not completely cured the situation. Got some dye and put it in, I have inspected several times with a black light but still no real traces. Will continue to monitor. Question - if the antifreeze was being consumed by the engine internally (cracked head or block, head gasket issue, etc.), would I be able to smell it anywhere but the exhaust? I smell it everywhere BUT the exhaust. I also dropped the glovebox and examined the heater core, it's a year-old Motorcraft unit. Nothing there.

Installed a smaller trans cooler, that sits higher up where there is more room to the front grill, and re-installed the grill.

Finally, the big one. Yesterday I braved the cold and installed a Redhead steering box. What an enormous difference! Steering feel is exactly what I was hoping for, it now feels a lot like my 2006 F150. Tracks straight, doesn't wander, feels great. Can't wait to drive it some more.

I am now busy spec'ing out engine internals. I've decided on a 427ci displacement (4.030 bore, 4.17 stroke). Need to recover financially for a bit before I order anything though. So mostly I'll just be driving the truck.

I don't think you'll smell a small leak into the engine in the exhaust.  Too many other gasses in there to detect that w/your nose.  I'll bet it was hose clamps.

As for the steering box, I'll bet that made a huge difference!  I think RH or BT is the way to go.  

On the engine, that should be a screamer!

Gary Lewis wrote

On the engine, that should be a screamer!

I'm going for more of a grunter than a screamer.  I doubt I'll spin it past 5k, but the torque should slow earths rotation if I launch towards the east!

Good point.  With that stroke, which is longer than even the 400's, you won't want to wind it too high.  But then you won't need to either.

For reference, my 400 has a 4.030 bore & 4.00 stroke.  And it makes lots of low-end torque.  Or, it did on the dyno as I have yet to drive it.

Pete Whitstone wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

On the engine, that should be a screamer!

I'm going for more of a grunter than a screamer.  I doubt I'll spin it past 5k, but the torque should slow earths rotation if I launch towards the east!

 It’s science!

grumpin wrote

Pete Whitstone wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

On the engine, that should be a screamer!

I'm going for more of a grunter than a screamer.  I doubt I'll spin it past 5k, but the torque should slow earths rotation if I launch towards the east!

 It’s science!

I'm such a nerd that I actually thought about which way the car had to face to have this effect.

Gary Lewis wrote

Good point.  With that stroke, which is longer than even the 400's, you won't want to wind it too high.  But then you won't need to either.

For reference, my 400 has a 4.030 bore & 4.00 stroke.  And it makes lots of low-end torque.  Or, it did on the dyno as I have yet to drive it.

Can you post the dyno sheet? I'd like to see what it looks like. What CR are you running? What heads? Cam info?

You can see most of that stuff here: Documentation/Picture Galleries/Dad's Truck/Engine.