Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

I figured it out, I was going the wrong way. The reverse gear on the opposite end of the shaft was seized and I thought it couldn't be removed that way. Just needed some extra oomph. Taking all the rest of the components allowed me to slide the gear enough to remove that snap ring. I got it all disassembled, got all my parts staged and diagrams handy. Just need to clean off the old oil and put it back together with new parts.

Nifty. The 435 has a similar snap ring on the output, and its also a bit of a pain. I like use cardboard to make a new clean layer on my work bench for stuff like this btw.

Excellent!  Glad you got it apart.

A couple weeks ago my landlord gave me a notice to vacate within 60 days since she wants to move into the house. Luckily I found a place with a garage at the very inexpensive [for California] rate of $2000/month. So I'm packing up everything in preparation for the move. But the move-in date is early June so I will be "homeless" for a month which means I'm only going to be able to work on small stuff in the shop at work until then.

When I had time last week I put together the transmission so it doesn't get messed up in the move.





All small parts on the bottom end have been replaced except the reverse idler needle bearings. I cleaned and re-used them. New reverse gear, new first gear, new synchro rings, new bearings, new bolts. The 1-2 shift fork is wearing out but it's not too bad yet. The used input shaft I purchased is a little bit damaged which I'm kind of disappointed about, but I don't think it will be a problem. I am still waiting on some top-end parts like the pin that holds the shifter straight, reverse light switch, and new drain/fill plugs. I was able to hold the shifter in place with a screwdriver and row through the gears. The shifting feels a lot more solid than it did before!

The last things I need to do are press the input/output bearings on completely, put the last lock ring on the input shaft, and paint it.

As far as lock ring pliers go, I initially purchased a pair of Performance Tool pliers. I would not recommend them, the knurling on the gripping surface is too slippery. I then purchased a set of 8in and 10in pliers from Speedwox on Amazon. They have worked decently enough with much better grippy knurling than the Performance Tool, but the knurling is almost worn off from this rebuild. They will also crush your fingers if you hold them wrong while expanding lock rings.

So far this has been an educational experience to say the least, and I wouldn't mind doing it again. It was probably much better that I went into it well-prepared with the instructions on this site and needing *almost* no additional supplies. And kudos to Gary for compiling the documentation, I would've been completely lost without it, as I could not find any forum post or video with a detailed assembly of a T19.

Loving the quality of your transmission rebuild! That's in the cards for me soon, I think. My T-18 runs OK but 2nd and 4th both are tricky to get into with nailing the exact RPM, so I figure the synchro's are pretty chowdered up, and despite replacing the shifter-cane alignment pin I have a ton of play in the shifter, so I figure the forks, cane, or some other top-cover components are pretty worn.

Did you get a specific rebuild kit or just mix and match the parts you knew you'd need?

You've done a great job getting the gearbox back together. I think you're going to really like the T-19.

I can remember struggling with those Performance Tools snap ring pliers when I destroyed my transfer case in the sticks of Vermont a couple of summers back.
Ended up with the Knipex 45 10 pliers from Amazon. They were twice the price I'd paid at O'Reilly's but worked awesome.

Glad you've found a place in today's market. Good luck with your move!

taskswap wrote

Did you get a specific rebuild kit or just mix and match the parts you knew you'd need?

I ordered a master rebuild kit. It came with everything besides the gears and top-end parts. It also had every conceivable gasket for each iteration of this transmission.

So while I can no longer do "big work" at my place, I've got time to do some research and overtime at work to pay for everything.

This is quickly becoming a restomod, not a restoration. Funny how ideas can change so quickly.

I joined the FordSix forums to figure out what I want to do with the engine while it's out. I've decided on a mid build for power without being ridiculous. I'm sure a V8 swap would be cheaper, but it wouldn't be as cool.

So far I'm at a Holley 2300 2bbl TBI EFI kit, performance intake manifold, distributor, head porting job with oversized valves, roller rockers, and EFI exhaust manifolds.


And to change the subject, If I can find a reasonable price on an Igloo Kool Rest, I actually want to use it as a center console just for retro "cool factor"

Things have been super hectic, but I finally got around to wrenching today. Moving was horrible but luckily I was able to store things at work including the Bronco. In addition, I was given a decrepit 1996 Coleman pop up trailer to use on a 2.5 week trip thru southern Utah which took all of my time getting roadworthy right after I moved in. Fortunately and unfortunately it was heavily damaged at the end of the trip when a gust of wind blew open the top while driving down the highway. So that's another project that won't be hemorrhaging time and money...

I ran into a family at Zion National Park with a camper-equipped 1985 diesel crew cab 4x4. They purchased it a few years ago and have since brought it on trips throughout North and South America. Apparently they were on their final trip before sending it home to France. Pretty cool rig. I introduced them to the forum so hopefully we will see them soon
(My phone camera was blurry from the damage it received while hiking The Narrows)


As for my Bronco, I'm going to try working on it much faster since moving it was a huge pain considering the drivetrain was out and it had no brakes. I also just don't have the equipment to move something like that so I tried to tow it into the garage with my bike (I probably could've made it if I got a better running start) and just ended up pushing it there with my truck.


I've decided to just go ahead and pull the engine to get it out of the way and better work on things simultaneously.

The only thing left connected to the engine is the clutch linkage which I'm not sure how to correctly remove. If there's any adjustment to potentially screw up I want to avoid doing that.

Glad you got through the move. Things can get dicey without brakes!

Yes, glad you made it through the move.

Your Bronco should have the mechanical clutch linkage being an '82, so there's not all that much to go wrong.  Just take it apart starting by loosening the adjustment on the part near the release lever going into the clutch itself.

As for the folks from France, that really IS a cool rig!  And they ship it back and forth to France?    I do hope they'll join.

I really can't seem to catch a break. Last week I got Covid again and it put me in bed for a few days, but I managed to get it together on Saturday and pull the engine.



This is my first time actually doing the work to pull an engine and I think I did rather well. Wrapped the chain around the bottom of the engine and the rear of the exhaust manifold. Hard part was rotating it 45 degrees diagonally while lifting because I busted my harmonic balancer puller bolts and couldn't remove the crankshaft pulley, and I didn't want to spread my germs at the hardware store to get new ones. Engine is too long. It'll sit in a corner in the garage until I scrape together the funds for the rebuild and go fast parts.

I could've saved myself the trouble and removed the radiator core support beforehand, but I ended up doing it afterward... Currently cleaning up the engine bay with a wire brush and trying to figure out what to remove next in order to prepare for frame and engine bay paint.


Speaking of which, does anyone know what this is? It had a couple vacuum hoses going to it.


Thinking about what to do with the steering box. It works fine and doesn't leak, I don't want to remove it until it's time to paint underneath it just in case the truck has to move again. It's just extremely dirty. I just hope it's not a time bomb if I choose bigger tires later

That last item is the evaporative emissions charcoal vapor canister.

It should be plumbed to the tank vents as well as a vacuum valve.

Sorry about the COVID bug biting you again.  That's a bummer and I hope you get over it quickly and completely.

Jim answered the question about the part, but on the steering box the only thing you might want to do is to pull the three bolts that hold it on and move it out enough that you can look behind it.  That's where frame cracks lurk, and usually at the edge of the imprint of the rear of the box on the frame.

The frame on Dad's truck was cracked there, even though the truck had never been abused nor had larger tires on it.  And the only reason I found the crack was because I took a pic of the frame in that area and the flash created a shadow that showed up in the pic.

It would be peace of mind to know there is no crack, especially if you go with larger tires later.  And I think you can do it w/o pulling anything off, just removing the three bolts.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

That last item is the evaporative emissions charcoal vapor canister.

It should be plumbed to the tank vents as well as a vacuum valve.

Do you know of an aftermarket solution that is smaller? I don't really like where this one mounts.

tcbaklash wrote

Do you know of an aftermarket solution that is smaller? I don't really like where this one mounts.

I'm afraid I don't.  
I've never heard of any universal charcoal vapor canister like you might have an aftermarket catalytic converter.
I expect that the regulation says it must adsorb XYZ amount of fumes, and Ford designed around that amount of activated carbon.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

tcbaklash wrote

Do you know of an aftermarket solution that is smaller? I don't really like where this one mounts.

I'm afraid I don't.  
I've never heard of any universal charcoal vapor canister like you might have an aftermarket catalytic converter.
I expect that the regulation says it must adsorb XYZ amount of fumes, and Ford designed around that amount of activated carbon.

And if you have dual tanks you have 2 canisters

I also do not know of any others that can be used or where others may have mounted it.
Once it is mounted in the factory location and the air filter cool fresh air hose is in place you can hardly see it down in there.
Dave ----

Gary Lewis wrote

Jim answered the question about the part, but on the steering box the only thing you might want to do is to pull the three bolts that hold it on and move it out enough that you can look behind it.  That's where frame cracks lurk, and usually at the edge of the imprint of the rear of the box on the frame.

The frame on Dad's truck was cracked there, even though the truck had never been abused nor had larger tires on it.  And the only reason I found the crack was because I took a pic of the frame in that area and the flash created a shadow that showed up in the pic.

It would be peace of mind to know there is no crack, especially if you go with larger tires later.  And I think you can do it w/o pulling anything off, just removing the three bolts.

I have severe trust issues with steering systems having dealt with perpetual issues with a 4Runner rack and pinion and my Dodge's steering box. How robust is the Bronco/F150 steering box?

tcbaklash wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

Jim answered the question about the part, but on the steering box the only thing you might want to do is to pull the three bolts that hold it on and move it out enough that you can look behind it.  That's where frame cracks lurk, and usually at the edge of the imprint of the rear of the box on the frame.

The frame on Dad's truck was cracked there, even though the truck had never been abused nor had larger tires on it.  And the only reason I found the crack was because I took a pic of the frame in that area and the flash created a shadow that showed up in the pic.

It would be peace of mind to know there is no crack, especially if you go with larger tires later.  And I think you can do it w/o pulling anything off, just removing the three bolts.

I have severe trust issues with steering systems having dealt with perpetual issues with a 4Runner rack and pinion and my Dodge's steering box. How robust is the Bronco/F150 steering box?

In all the years driving, started 1976, and all different things I have only had 1 that lost total steering.
A 76 Ford E350 van with a 460 /C6. All 3 bolts broke as I pulled into a buddies drive. Hit the lip and heard them "POP" and went to straighten out and would not!

68 Dodge van they bolted the box to sheet metal that was spot welded to the floor.
In high school the teacher was going to take it for parts and got around the corner of the school and backed it back up to the garage door. He said the steering had way to much play and in checking why found the floor was rusted away so the box was just kind of floating LOL.
He used vise grips to hold it in place so I could drive it to work and back in the next day so he could weld it into place. I had a he11 of a time driving it to work / home as the steering was to tight now LOL

Used a tow truck with a bad rag joint to tow some cars that was a show too!
Other than the van I have never had anything fail totally.
Dave ----

The steering boxes don't usually fail catastrophically, they just get worse and worse.  The issue is that Ford used the cast iron of the box as the bearing for the front of the shaft.  And while it is at the bottom of the box so does get plenty of lube, the box wears.  When most companies refurbish the boxes they don't fix the wear - just use boxes with wear that is "within guidelines".

However two companies, Redhead and Blue Top, bore the box out and put a true bearing in its place.  And it is those boxes I'd use.