Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

Ford's transfer case adapter was common to all gearboxes and transfer cases in this era.
That shouldn't be any problem, as long as the 4wd shifter linkage fits the same.

Jim,
With his T-case shifter being on the passenger side, would it still use the driver side boss on the transfer case adapter as the pivot point for the shifter? havent seen many photos of the srod setup.

I honestly don't know.
This is why I say the adapter length and flange bolt pattern are the same, but I'm not sure about how the linkage mounts.

Edit: ... without seeing them side by side.
Maybe it can simply be clocked 180°?

mine wouldnt, as the bolt pattern on the transmission is a trapezoid. I also have an alignment dowel on the transfer case flange. that would be nice though..

I'll get under the truck tonight and take photos. And when I yank the transmission and case I'll bolt everything up on the ground and take photos of that too.

I can't imagine there's a lot of SROD photos to compare to. I bet most of em have already been recycled into beer cans.

Okay so here's some pictures I scoured from the internet of transmissions identical to mine.

The case adapter is definitely not going to work...

Id say youre correct about that. On the bright side, the adapter you need should be orders of magnitude more plentiful. On that train of thought, you might consider selling the srod or its adapter instead of "throwing it in the volcano".

I'm already finding brand new adapters online for $175. I'm hoping a transmission I purchase already has one on there. The more parts, the better. I'll clean and sandblast them at work and then I'll sell them to the masses.

Hopefully I can find a buyer for the SROD... The 4x4 version appears to be exceedingly rare and was in, what, SOME 1980-83 F-150s and Broncos only? I'm cursed with limited space to store anything so it may end up in the dumpster at work if I can't sell it.


Anyway. At work yesterday I punched out the neoprene bushings on my shackles and leaf springs using a hydraulic press. 3/4" drive socket extension works really good at removing the rubber. The entire truck is getting polyurethane in lieu of rubber. Except bump stops, but those don't matter.

As soon as I get my body mounts in the mail, I'm putting back in the rear axle housing. I have everything so far except a new third member which is going to hurt in the wallet. Not putting in the fuel tank or rear brakes until I've successfully trained myself with tube flaring and have painted the frame section around the transmission. The truck hasn't sat on 4 tires since April before I got The Covid so it'll be nice to not work under jack stands for a while.

Just ordered my third member for the rear axle. It was about $300 more for a Strange Engineering iron case and a fancy pinion support, but with my 115 rated factory horsepower, I don't think I'm going to break anything back there. Nonetheless, it comes with Motive gears, Timken bearings, and the Eaton TrueTrac diff.



Selling the car I owed $4700 on for $13,700 has given me the ability to make some of these high dollar purchases to get this project moving. I think the rear end and everything in the vicinity will be at the bottom of the list of the more expensive things I will do.

That should make for a very nice rear axle.  

I really like the TrueTrac in Big Blue.

Okay guys I got my T-19 transmission. I was hoping for a T-19A, but I checked the part number and spun the shafts and it's a regular T-19 with the 5.something:1 1st gear. For the price of $164 after tax it was too good to pass up, especially considering that it came complete with the bellhousing, shifter, and transfer case adapter. Considering that it's not the EXACT transmission that I want, I think I will just clean it up, inspect gears, and redo the seals and then I'll do a rebuild if I decide I like the first gear.



Bellhousing is marked E4TA-7505 C which I couldn't find the part number for in Documentation. Only casting number that's close is E4TA-7505 DA which is for a small block. The truck it came off was a 1984 F-250 460cid 4x4.



Anyway, front of the trans to rear of the xfer case adapter is 19.5". Measurement on SROD is 20", I THINK, it was hard to measure it while under the truck.

Part numbers are not engineering numbers, and a part number will never appear on the part itself. (It will be on a box, bag or tag if you buy a replacement part through Ford)

So, your new bellhousing is set up for an external hydraulic clutch.
Are you going to swap bellhousings, or find a new pedal box and a clutch master cylinder?
If you do go hydraulic read all the information and the TSB about firewall tearing.
Install at least the small corner brace. (Which has worked fine for me for more than 15 years)

I'm using the bellhousing already on the truck, assuming it bolts up, which it looks about the same bolt pattern. I'm gonna sell the new one.

That's a good plan as I sold one of those bell housings for $200.  They are like hen's teeth.

I knew the 460 pattern ones are very hard to find, but they came out in '83 and ended by '89.

I figured the Windsor pattern hydraulic bell came from three engine options and was around until the end of the 300.
But a good score nonetheless!  

I can tell you, when your slave perch is broken off they are worth whatever the ask (If you can find one)

Thats awesome! Maybe its just my bias coming in, but it would be hard for me not to like that slighlty lower 1st gear. Your bellhousing doesnt look like mine, but all of the critical features look to be the same/in the same place.

My only comment would be that I think you should go ahead and build it. I will have about 7-8 hours in getting mine out and back in, but I think Ill have less than 12 hours in the rebuild. Mine looked great when I pulled the cover, but Ive since found one bearing where the cup was a timken and the roller was a nsk (previous rebuilder left old cup in), and the bearing between the input and output shafts was missing its snap ring and thrust washer ! In other words, the work to rebuild isnt much more than the work to get it out and even a trans that looks good could have some bonkers stuff going on. In any case, Im glad you found what youre looking for! You can probably sell the bellhousing for enough to make money on the transmission.  

Okay, so the truck now sits on its own suspension again. Greased up the polyurethane bushings on the leaf springs and globbed anti-seize on the bolts. Going with the Bilstein 4600s in the rear as well. I don't think I'm going to be doing much until I get my gears and put it on the tires. I hate working under jack stands.






Just to get it moving again, I think I'm going to run it off a jerry can in the engine bay and seal up the brake lines that lead to the rear. So I'll have front brakes and a parking brake for now. I don't really want to put in the fuel tank or hard metal lines until I've done the center undercarriage with the transmission. Might as well rebuild or clean the xfer case while I have it out.

Looks great!  I like the way it is coming together.  

I ran mine off a small gas can set up on the inner fender well so I could move it under its own power when needed, like to clean the shop floor after doing body work for the day.

I see something that might help you and others with the drive shaft U joints.
As soon as you pull the drive shaft and you plan on re-using it wrap masking tape around the joint to keep the caps & roller pins in place till you re-install it. I take the tape under the car or truck to tape them ASAP.
If I do not have tape I use a shop rag and wrap / tie it to hold the caps.

Truck is looking good
Dave ----

Thanks guys!

So in the meantime I started tearing down the T19. I have the main and input shafts out. The reverse gear has evidence of chipping and 1st gear has indentations in the center with some slight wear on the edges. All the other gears look pretty good, I can still see machining marks on gear teeth.




Other than replacing the worn gears and purchasing a rebuild kit (and replacing the input shaft which I messed up when cutting off the snap rings...), I don't really know how much further I should go. The countershaft gears and reverse idler gears look good and they rotate very smoothly. I'd like to fully clean out the case but I wonder if it's worth the effort...