Search Forum
Fixing Eddie
Locked
1 ...
12131415161718
... 27
1 ...
12131415161718
... 27
Re: Fixing Eddie
 
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Hi.
In the last 2 weeks the weather has changed from this  to  So I had to let Eddie out.
Put in 6 new schocks  since the not so old ones ( O.E Supreme ) came sluggishly and very slow back from compression. The KYB schocks responds quickly and uniformly back from compression. I could feel Eddie`s suspension work better with the KYBs. The new Motorcraft Coolant Temp. Sender put the needle in the gauge at the N. Future plans may be an AFR gauge, new steering box. Besides that I guess Eddie may have his own plans. Outdoor its 8C, 48F.
Looks like spring is coming.
Stein.
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5,8L, 3 speed Autom.Tr 1996 F350 , 7,3L Powerstroke, 4wd, 5 speed Man. Tr. |
Re: Fixing Eddie
Administrator
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
Hi.
Today I decided to mount my DAB radio adapter more properly than before. In Norway we don`t use the FM band any more. This DAB adapter takes down the digital radio signals and sends them out again in the FM band. So then I can listen to Eddies original radio. I put the USB connection for the DAB adapter under the dash. Connected to the white/purple wire that has power at Acce and Ignition. All the other thin wires are for the AEM 30-4110 AFR Gauge and the Glow Shift Transmission Oil Temp. Gauge. In the lower right hand corner you can see were the cables for these devices enter the cabin. Its a lot of wires.  Here is the AFR parts. It is pretty straight forward to install it. But it is time consuming figuring out where to route and fasten it.    When I got higher up I wound the cable two times around the back of the brake booster before going through the firewall. Its a long cable.. After finishing the electric connections it looked like this. The AFR read 12 at idle after a few minutes. When I hit the road it was indicating around 13 for a few minutes. Then it suddenly accelerated upwards and ended up with 3 red dots. When I stop the engine and turns on the ignition the gauge shows me first all numbers ( 111, 222,333, etc ) , then REn, USI, P00. Then it races through the higher AFR numbers and ends up with the 3 red dots. Anybody exsperienced this ? I will check the sensor and its connector tomorrow I think 
Stein.
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5,8L, 3 speed Autom.Tr 1996 F350 , 7,3L Powerstroke, 4wd, 5 speed Man. Tr. |
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Administrator
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
Hi.
Glad you have not had problems. After checking the internet I worry the sensor is broken. The sensors seems to be very sensitiv in many ways. I have mounted it in a little pipe between the two exhaust pipes coming down from the exhaust manifolds. The boss for the sensor is there from Bassani. This evening I cleaned and reconnected the plug for the sensor. I also took the sensor out and nothing to see there.    AEM says to use ONLY Bosch LSU4.9 sensors. The sensor in the pictures are the one from the kit. Can`t see its a Bosch.
When I turned on the ignition the Gauge went first through its rutine and showed me a reading of 14,2. But after a few seconds it ran up to and past 18. Then I got the red dots. So the fault is still there. Sent a mail to the seller about this. Have to wait and see what he thinks. Another thing. I rechecked Eddies timing today. He ran at 14 `BTD after getting the new timing chain. I adjusted it down to 9. The new balancer was very easy to read and the markings stood dead still when flashing.Not the slightest wandering back and fort. The result of a new timing chain I think. Greetings Stein.
Stein.
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5,8L, 3 speed Autom.Tr 1996 F350 , 7,3L Powerstroke, 4wd, 5 speed Man. Tr. |
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Administrator
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
Administrator
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Administrator
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Hi Jim.
You are right about the symbol. I thought so myself right after I had posted. But when you look at the sensor itself there is no markings on it. 
The long number on the plug does not reference to the sensor. I think its the plug. You will find the same number on plugs on different sensors from different vendors. I am 100% sure the enclosed sensor is not a Bosch sensor. Thats weird when AEM insists that you ONLY use the original Bosch sensor 0258017025. This sensor is 2,5 times more expensive then the copy cats. AEM sells the original Bosch as a replacement sensor, $ 110.00. They are $ 160.00 in Norway. I can by a copy where the Bosch model number is etched on. And no other info on it. Price $ 66.00. If you look at Bosch sensors you will find them etched with model numbers, Germany, Bosch symbol and more. Wonder what AEM has to say ? Maybe I send them an email. The seller does not want to take any responsebility for my sensors failure. He says that the sensor ( may ) have been damaged because of the very rich mixture ( AFR reading 10 ). It lasted 1 - 2 minutes till the choke opened up. At idle the gauge read 12,5. Besides I dont know for sure that the sensor is broken. It is heating up when I turn the ignition on. Is there a way to test them ? Enough for now. Stein.
Stein.
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5,8L, 3 speed Autom.Tr 1996 F350 , 7,3L Powerstroke, 4wd, 5 speed Man. Tr. |
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by firefire
It's really unfortunate, the amount of counterfeit auto parts circulating today.
 I would certainly provide feedback to the manufacturer. They may do nothing... They might reprimand the seller... At the very least they will have a data point that their product is being bundled with fake goods. (If the AFR itself is actually genuine!) Reporting to Amazon isn't a bad idea either. Here in the US they have been forced to address the issue of fake products sold through their portal.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
In reply to this post by firefire
Mine always reads 10 / rich till the choke pulls off and I know at 1 time it was reading that most of my 45 min. drive to work. It was a 28* morning so the choke did not pull off like I thought it would. I have since adjusted the choke and made a change to the hot air tube to get hotter and that looks like it worked to get the choke to open sooner. I wish I know how to test the 02 as I have 2 old ones from my 02 Dodge that I would like to test and maybe put to use some how  I just did not find anything on the web about any 02 and why I bought the AFR gauge I did. Sorry Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
This post was updated on .
Hi.
Still having problems with my AEM. AEM tells me to clean the sensor. Could be clogged inside the tip. Which I did.  Got some soot out. But it did not correct the fault. They also tell me that the sensor is a Bosch sensor. But the markings have been removed by their suppliers. Cant sell it as a Bosch unit due to legalities regarding permissions. And it surely looks like the sensors body has been polished. So I may just accept that. But without any markings how can you know what you have bought ? The one they sell as a replacement is the original Bosch unit with a much longer and different cable. There are some videos on Youtube that shows you how to test them. The heating element works. The sensor heats up when I turn the ignition on. With my Fluke the resistance measured 3 Ohm. I have also learned that these sensor produce electrisity ( the signal to the gauge ) depending on the amount of oxygen hitting the sensor element. Heating up the tip with a torch flame I got a max reading of 0,6V. But a flame torch also burns away most of the oxygen. AEM writes sensor signals from 0 -5V. Highest V is highest AFR. I am confused. I have ordered a new Bosch sensor. My plan is to attach it to the gauge and do a wet rag test. Thats a test outside of the exhaust pipe. Then if the gauge does not work I will send it back to the seller and ask for a replacement / refund.  Next week mr. Winter may come back to visit us  Stein.
Stein.
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5,8L, 3 speed Autom.Tr 1996 F350 , 7,3L Powerstroke, 4wd, 5 speed Man. Tr. |
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
|
Hi. Good luck with your AES ( AEM?). I read about your Blue Top install. So I got inspired to begin on mine.
 It is pretty straight forward to disconnect the various parts. The steering joint needed a few whacks with a hammer around the tip on the pitman arm, a crowbar and a knock on its top. Then it came loose. I got the piping on top of steering gear off with regular wrenches. Removed the oil cooler line and I think I will replace it They live in a pretty harsh environment and are 36 years old. Getting the nut off the pitman arm was no match for my impact wrench. But my little puller was out of its league  I think I find a better one at work. Today it did not snow. Even the sun was to be seen😀. Top day temp was 5C. Nice beer temp.
Greetings Stein
Stein.
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5,8L, 3 speed Autom.Tr 1996 F350 , 7,3L Powerstroke, 4wd, 5 speed Man. Tr. |
Re: Fixing Eddie
|
Administrator
|
Wow! 5C = 41F. Nice day, especially that far north. It is 63F = 17C here.
The Blue Top looks great. Gotta do that for Big Blue some day. But to remove the Pitman arm did you try banging the side of the arm with the puller on it? And I agree, the cooler lives in a harsh environment and yours looks like it has seen better days. Replacing it looks like a good plan. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|