Fixing Eddie

Hi again friends. Here is a update. The last 14 days we have had " Texas weather " here. Temperatures between -9 and - 20 `C. But contrary to Texas life goes as normal. Working temperature around the Bronco is the same as in your refrigerator. The Smog Pump ( with vacuum and plumbing ) and exhaust heath control valve is removed. The exhaust system was welded together in one piece, so I had to cut it to get it down. Welded the hole for the air from the Smog pump shut. The second cat was welded on with " out " pointing forward. Cut it of the pipe and welded it back on the other way. Don`t know if it matters.. Made a junction that will make it easy to dismount the exhaust in the future. When the exhaust was out I made new oil lines for the transmission cooler. Used 8mm ( 5/16 " ) copper lines. I have decided to use only the Hayden oil cooler, and skip the in radiator cooler. The Hayden is a model 698, which has a temperature controlling valve. Hope it will work sufficiently. I made expanders for the oil lines from drill bits. In an effort to make the oil hoses fit tighter. With a 7mm drill I got an outside diameter a tad over 9mm. But I decided to order barb oil line connections. Have not got them yet. Since the engine has not been started for 4 weeks, I have tried to stop the oil leak at the rear of the engine with a Marine version of glue / sealing stuff. Most people call it Tec 7 ( regardless of who makes it. When I have finished the oil lines, I can start Eddie up again. Then I can check for leaks.... Included a picture of a stud sticking down from the frame. There is one on each side. Does anyone know their purpose beside beating up my back or head ?  Thanks for now.

Those pins are to locate and carry the chassis down the assembly line.
They serve no purpose (that I know of) once the vehicle is on the road.

Interesting that you went with the aftermarket cooler knowing that the transmission fluid must be at 90C for the C6 to function well.
I think the point of having a fluid/coolant heat exchanger is that it gets up to temp faster, and remains more stable (in general)

Good job with the exhaust.
I can't understand why someone would weld the cat in backwards.  

Hi.
Thanks for input ArdWrknTrk. About the cooler , I will test how the cooler works alone. It has a sort of temp. control. I may go back to using the radiator too. Started the engine yesterday for the first time in a month. Had one leak in the new oil cooler line. Made a new flare to fix it. But now I got coolant leaking from 2 places. Out under a bolt head ( waterpump ) and one from what I think is the heather core. So Eddie keeps me busy

These trucks are just onions, and we peel them and cry, peel and cry.  But soon we have enough to have a mess of onion rings, and they taste soooooo good!  

So, keep peeling and you'll get there.  And it won't be long for the driving season there.  How long is the good weather?

Hi.
In the last 14 days the weather has changed completely. Now its back on the plus side, about 10`C daytime. The snow is gone. But it will probably come back. But when we are done with Mars, I think I may start driving around on a regular basis. Now I am looking for a new heater core. But I am a little bewildered. I measured mine to be 9 1/2" high. Total top to bottom. The width is 7 1/4". Depth 2". But I can`t find a new one matching the size. There are some only 1" thick ( depht). None have the same hight. They are 1" or more lower ( core hight ). Is that the hight of only the radiator part of the core ? On mine, the radiator part is 8" high.  I have checked RockAuto and Summitracing. Do you have any suggestions ? And an other thing. Is it a fact that these cores are not up to the pressure generated by the water pump at high revs ? That it is smart to restrict the flow from the water pump at the intake of the core ?  Do you have any idea why the dash has been cut in two ? Why would that be nessecary ?

Interesting on the dash. Someone else recently posted pictures with the same break.

The heating loop is part of a closed system. The pressure is equal everywhere under the radiator cap.
While you may think the water pump is putting 'pressure', it is pulling just as hard on the other side.
So it is only acting as a circulator.

Pressure builds because the 25l or so of fluid expand as they heat up.
This keeps the coolant from flashing to steam in the hottest parts of the cylinder heads.

I would suggest you be careful to get a heater core that does not have high corners.
A number of members have run into a situation where they cannot get their replacement heater core to fit.
This would be difficult for you to resolve with shipping back and forth across the Atlantic.

Hi. Here is a update. Have finished the lines fot the transmission / oilcooler. Have taken Eddie out for a spin ( 30 minutes at my workplace ). Mostly acceleration and braking. That V8 sounds nice :). The transmission oil reached 70`C.  No oil leaking from anywhere exept a small leak at the back of the engine. Cant say if its from the oilpan or the crank shaft seal. Wrapped the exhaust to reduce heat radiation, and also made an extra heat shield for the transmission. Got the heather core from Rock Auto, APD 9010205, and it fits. For the rear stabilizer bar, 7/8 " Energy Suspension 45123R. Since the stabilizer links were to rusted I ordered new ones. I actually ordered the wrong model but got 2 different ones.One had the same curvature as my old ones ( Black bushings). The other was more bent ( blue bushings ). But they had the same part number. See photo. May I use both versions ? Ordered a new pair of the correct model any way.Today I had the rear springs off. Have ordered new bushings. Getting the old ones out and putting in the new ones is this weeks project.

Cool! Good job!

I'll bet that V8 sounds good!  And good job on the transmission cooler lines.  

On the oil leak, several of the trucks I've worked on had a leak where the wall between the cylinders is supposed to seal to the intake manifold.  That then runs down the back of the block and looks like a pan or seal leak.

Hope the stabilizer bar work goes easily this week.  

Your experience with the sway bar links is exactly the same as mine last year.

I cannot understand how parts (sealed in bags with the same number!) can be so different.
In my case the bags were identical.
I ended up refurbishing one of my links and using the new rubbers.

And I see your heater core does have corners!
I've never encountered trouble, but a number of forum members say they are impossible to install.    

Hi. The heather core has just enough rounded corners to fit  It fits nice and snug. One thing about the HVAC system that surprised me, is there is no valve to regulate the amount of coolant entering the heather core. That means it is always as hot as the engine/coolant gets. So therefore the temperature of the airflow into the cabin must be regulated with the help of the icy cold AC core. So if my AC system fails, I cant regulate the temperature down from hot. Am I right ?  

There should be a blend door behind the heater core, that shunts air around it.

It's actuator is close to the passenger hood hinge.
That vacuum line often gets brittle and snaps, leaving it open.

Quite a few members have retrofitted a vacuum actuated heater core bypass valve from the smaller Ranger trucks.
This allows the coolant to still circulate, but it gets short circuited in the engine compartment.
I can look for some threads, but don't know this forum as well as Gary.

I put a bypass on my Bronco that shuts off flow to the heater core when I go to Max A/C.

But, I found something I don’t like. Driving in the smoke from forest fires, I recirculate to keep out as much smoke as possible. It was warm out, but not enough to need full cold. I tried to control the temperature but couldn’t with no heat in the heater core. I have an electrically controlled vacuum switch I’ll have to install so that I can better control the different situations.

I haven’t decided if I’m putting one on my F250.

Freddies HVAC system is working. But it is interesting the way this system regulates the temperature. Or its me, have not thought about it before. But I see it could be possible to regulate the temp. of the heather core with a valve. Its like when you dont have AC.

Opps Eddie, sorry I called you Freddie  Here is a picture of a heater core that does NOT fit. UAC, UCHT8247C. The first bend of the pipes start to far out. And you can see the pipes are not placed exactly as the original. So I couldnt get the core completely in its  housing. The pipes hit the firewall in front of the first bend.Either the core is not correctly made, or its for another Bronco / car.  Didnt get a chance to start on the springs , but I got the new bolts for them today. Then there is spring in the air, but in Mars you never know when the snow comes back..

Today I got the bushings out. Its always a puzzle to find the right combo of pipes, sockets and stuff to get it done. But after 2,5 hours it was done. Maybe I will get the new bushings on Friday.

That's a cool little press you have!

Is it something you made yourself, or part of a kit?
I have never seen something quite like it.

Hi. I work in a truck compani. We have mostly Scania trucks. This press is a special tool from Volvo, frame and hydraulic sylinder. The hydraulic pump is operated with air pressure, and is its own brand.