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1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

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Gary Lewis

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

All the Bullnose tanks I've seen have the clip for the inner hose. But did your truck even have a vent hose inside the larger hose?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

for this rear tank, I was expecting a hacked up one like the front, but in this case, no there's no inner hose at all.

Chris
1985 Ford F250 XLT SuperCab
ZF5-42 swapped 460 hot fuel, factory AC.
Part way through 4WD swap.

1988 Suzuki Samurai -- Daily Driver
1968 Dodge Dart -- Project car
1957 Chevy 4400 Flat Bed -- Collector Project

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

I just checked the inlet to the tank and there's no baffle, tube, or clip for the inner hose, I can look straight in and see the float bobbing in the gas.

Gary Lewis

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

That's a recipe for looooong fills at the pump.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

In reply to this post by CRittaler

Rear tank is for sure an 87-89 tank. Sending unit is very different from the one that I ordered....

Has anyone used the 87-89 tanks with an 85-86 sender? The hole is the same size, but the angle of the pipes is very different as is the pump.

My original plan was to pull the pump and swap it onto the new sender, but that won't work now.

I'm going to take a closer look at the other tank I have since it's an old one. I might look a kludging the modern fill neck into the old tank unless I can make the sender work in the 88 tank

Gary Lewis

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

I think you'll also find that the tab that orients the pump/sender combo is in a different place between the Bullnose & Bricknose tanks. So it isn't easy to mix and match.

And, since the resistance range is both different and backwards on the Bricknose sender, using one of them on a Bullnose gauge gives totally wrong readings. But you can correct that with a Metermatch.

Still, it is best to use a Bullnose pump/sender in a Bullnose tank. (I say that, but I'm running '96 tanks and pump/sending units, aka fuel delivery modules.)

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

alright,

I ran out to Lowes and grabbed some Polypropylene corrugated hose and I'm going to make a new vent tube using that and swap back to the '85 tank. I don't know why they swapped in the first place. As best I can tell there's nothing wrong with the tank, just the float is missing from the old sender.

What I'm using is some dishwasher drain tube. Polypropylene is listed as being reasonably gasoline resistant. Worst case, it fails right away and I have to pull the tank again.

I expect the hose will soften and swell a little, but it's not being submerged, which is what all the tests are doing, submersion for 30 days is a typical test.

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

It took me a bit of time to get back to the truck again. I had to change gauges in my daily and that was a bunch of fab work.

I ended up having to drop the rear tank twice.

First time was the initial drop. I ended up swapping back to the original tank for the truck and using some Polypropylene dishwasher drain hose for the vent tube. We'll see how long it lasts.

I got the tank reinstalled and went to fill it when I discovered that I didn't have the hose clamp on the tank tight enough and ended up dumping gasoline all over my garage floor.

I had to pull the tank like 90% of the way back out to get at the hose clamp and have enough space to get a wrench on it. Once I got the tank back in again all was well. Same issue as the front tank now though, 5Gal brought the gauge up to E. We'll see what it reads when full once I have the thing on the road.

I also replaced the fuel lines to this tank. This is the only picture I took during this process, but you can see what shape the factory lines are in.

They had been hacked up in a couple spots and spliced with fuel hose. I've replaced them entirely with fuel hose. My next steps are to look at the routing and add sacrificial hose over the fuel lines in any spots that look like the could be struck or rub.

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

I don't really have any pictures for this update, but I have made progress on the truck.

All the fuel and return lines have been replaced with standard fuel hose and protected with heater hose for abrasions. Anywhere that didn't have a barbed fitting I double clamped with fuel injection clamps.

I ran 3/8" for the supply and 5/16 for the return, then I bought a lot of 3/4" heater hose and sliced down one side to make it like a split loom to cover the lines for protection from damage.

There were a lot of 3"-6" fuel hose splices on the nylon lines, some attached with worm gear hose clamps, some with zip ties, and one that was only clamped on one end.

Actually I do have one picture of that.

This is the fuel supply line. I don't know if that chunk of hard line is factory (I'm guessing not) but I had to use my tubing cutter on the end to clean it up since it looked like it had been cut with a hack saw. I ended up double clamping each end since neither had barbs to hold the fuel line.

I've checked the system for leaks and I don't see any so far. Now I'm working on finishing up the windshield lip so that maybe I can get a window in it before winter.

also, that braided line on the right side of the picture is the clutch line and it is not even close to correct. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that yet.

Gary Lewis

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

Chris - That's good progress. And the protection is a good idea.

What's not right about the clutch line? Is it just in the wrong place?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Gary Lewis wrote

Chris - That's good progress. And the protection is a good idea.

What's not right about the clutch line? Is it just in the wrong place?

I don't think that is supposed to route like this

Gary Lewis

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

I think you are right.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

In reply to this post by CRittaler

Did some more work over the last few weeks. Not a whole lot because there was a family vacation and some emergency work I had to do on my Samurai.

I have the windshield channel prepped and ready to go, just want to finish the rest of the painting before I have an new windshield installed.

I went with Rustoleum Rust Restorer as the base coat and then Rustoleum Sunrise Red for a top coat.

Not shown is that I also swapped the belt receivers for the shrouded ones I nabbed from the wrecking yard and I installed the driver side sun visor, though I have to drill the holes for the clips still.

Gary Lewis

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

Looking good, Chris. And you'll really like the later sun visors since they don't droop.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

This post was updated on .

In reply to this post by CRittaler

Started working on the roof of the truck.

Lots of sanding and cursing my low ceilings.

I sanded with 220 grit and primed with Rustoleum Universal Bonding Primer. 3 cans netted 2 solid coats.

Next up is seam sealing the drip rails. Top side gets 3M 2 part seam sealer, bottom gets POR15 seam sealer.

I have 6 cans of Rustoleum Sunrise Red on the way as well as a new half mask respirator since mine just broke.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

What color was your truck originally, Chris?

I ended up using OSHA safety red instead of my 2E Light Canyon Red because Duplicolor doesn't make it any more.
2K paint match from the auto body supply is ~$20, maybe more now...
The Rust-Oleum was available cheap in gallons and I can get their bigger 'industrial' aerosol cans for a color match.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

I think the original is supposed to be canyon red, but I'd have to decode the Vin again to be sure.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

What color was your truck originally, Chris?

I ended up using OSHA safety red instead of my 2E Light Canyon Red because Duplicolor doesn't make it any more.
2K paint match from the auto body supply is ~$20, maybe more now...
The Rust-Oleum was available cheap in gallons and I can get their bigger 'industrial' aerosol cans for a color match.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

Color's not in the VIN, but it is on the door tag.

Dark canyon red would be 51
Medium Canyon Red (2A) was only available as a metallic in '85.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

CRittaler

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

From that mine appears to be 2E Light Canyon Red

ArdWrknTrk

Re: 1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

Administrator

Ah! That's why you're going for such a bright red.
From the look of this pic it seemed the truck was originally much darker.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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