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Starter solenoid?

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Gary Lewis

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

Yes, you should sort out the clutch switch. It isn't safe w/o it, although Ford didn't install one until about '84.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

Sometimes it's just the self adjusting block that's causing it.

Plug it back into the switch.
Move the ratcheting block down toward the pedal a few inches.

Turn the key to crank, and -then- step on the pedal.
It will sound like plastic cracking, but does the truck engage the starter?

If it does, you've fixed it!

If it won't, you should replace the switch.

The fender relay getting stuck engaged is a whole different matter, and you have that sorted now with new cables.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

85lebaront2

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Yes, before 84 it was assumed that if you had a manual transmission you were bright enough to not start it in gear, but reverse lock for steering columns meant your car was in reverse when you turned the key on so the government decided that in order to fix a problem they created, require a safety switch on manual transmissions on the clutch instead of simply adding an interrupt switch like an automatic transmission.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

So now I seem to have everything figured out minus two things. When I go to start the ignition switch seems to have none of the spring back that it used to have. Is this just a bad switch? The other problem is fuel but I am working on it I believe it just isnt primed from sitting for so long. If someone can help with the switch that would be fantastic!

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

It cranks when it is in the run position, I have to turn the key all the back to lock for it to quit

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

Gary Lewis

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

You may either have an ignition switch problem or maybe just the linkage between the tumbler and the switch is dragging. See the Ignition Switch tab on this page and see if it helps: Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

In reply to this post by Norcalbullnose

Do you have a tilt steering wheel?

Could be the pot metal actuator rod is broken.

I replaced my ignition switch about a month ago.
There should be pictures in the WHYDTYTT thread

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

In reply to this post by Norcalbullnose

Do you have a mechanical fuel pump behind the power steering?
Or do you have the "Hot Fuel Handling" electric pump system?

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

It's not tilt steering, everything seems to be fine and I followed the instructions on that thread linked above when I did it a while ago and it seems to only do it once it fired after I put some gas in the carb. I'm going over it again to see if I messed up. And I do not have a mechanical fuel pump, it worked fine after I first had it running. I replaced the relay and checked the wires. I also suspect a leak somewhere as when I start to crank everything smells of gas fumes, or that could be because the air cleaner is off at the moment

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

Angelo Voltura

Re: Starter solenoid?

In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk

That rod is known for breaking especially on the tilt columns. I would definitely be checking that if a new lock cylinder didn't solve it. regardless if its a tilt column or not. I have seen them only partially move, break in odd spots etc.

Sounds to me like he's got a hot fuel setup.

1978 F150 351W
1979 F150 "410M"
1979 F100 302
1979 F250 400
1987 F150 300
1990 F150 302
1991 F150 300
1995 F150 (1985 clip swapped) 300
1997 F250 351W

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

Hot fuel should be powered off the 'I' terminal of the starter relay.
This means the pump will run even though there is no oil pressure.

Primes the carb while cranking.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

So is that wire the pink and black one? The one that powers the fuel pump or is it a different one? I currently have that on the s terminal so that would make a lot of sense

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

If you look at the hot fuel diagram you'll see it bypasses all the safeties and powers the selector directly. (while cranking)

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

Update: I replaced the ignition switch with the higher end one from napa($28) and she cranks like a dream now but still no fuel. I changed where the wire goes on the relay and now I'm going to check the inertia switch just in case. Probably just a lack of gas and my fuel gauge doesnt work so I'll put a few more gallons in tomorrow

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

"Changed where the wire goes on the relay" ?
Do you mean you've moved one wire to the 'I' terminal?

Why isn't the pump running while cranking?
I'm not sure of all years, but the hot fuel wiring I know will definitely run with the safety and resistor bypassed if the key is in the 'Start' position.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

What I mean was before I read your comment above I had the fuel pump wire on the s terminal of the relay and I changed to the I terminal. I'm going to take another look and see what is wrong because it had worked before and I havnt messed with the fuel system yet

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

I finally got it to run thank you guys, now does anyone know how to set up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and have any suggestions or links to any threads. My whole cluster doesnt work so I have no idea if there is any at all. Thank you

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

Why not fix the cluster?

The oil pressure sender is at the back of the intake manifold.
You can foiiow the ground wire back from the fuel pump relay.

Either add a 'T', or remove the old sender and connect your new gauge.

Mechanical, or electric?
Which do you want?

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Norcalbullnose

Re: Starter solenoid?

The only reason I dont want to fix the cluster right now is because the previous owners of this truck completely ruined all of the wiring and I dont have enough experience to do a better job myself, but it is definitely on the list. I just wanted to hook up a oil pressure and water temp gauge. There is already a water temp gauge in there which is mechanical but it doesnt work. All it was connected to it is what I believe is a water line going to the front of the intake manifold right next to the distributor. I have no clue how mechanical gauges work and if they need electrical work, my guess would be no but I dont know too much. How would setting up a mechanical oil pressure gauge go and what do you mean by a "T"? I'm sorry I ask so many questions

1984 cclb f350, 460, 4 speed, 4x4

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Starter solenoid?

Administrator

Norcalbullnose wrote

The only reason I dont want to fix the cluster right now is because the previous owners of this truck completely ruined all of the wiring and I dont have enough experience to do a better job myself, but it is definitely on the list. I just wanted to hook up a oil pressure and water temp gauge. There is already a water temp gauge in there which is mechanical but it doesnt work. All it was connected to it is what I believe is a water line going to the front of the intake manifold right next to the distributor. I have no clue how mechanical gauges work and if they need electrical work, my guess would be no but I dont know too much. How would setting up a mechanical oil pressure gauge go and what do you mean by a "T"? I'm sorry I ask so many questions

No need to apologize.
That's why we're all here, to help each other.

I'm assuming you mean the ~2" long bypass hose between the front of the intake and the back of the water pump.

The stock oil pressure sender looks like a little tin can with a wire going to the top of it.
It changes resistance as the oil pressure from the oil gallery at the back of the block, above the cam, pushes against a spring inside.
In essence more pressure pushes the contact closer to ground, making for a higher reading.

Mechanical oil pressure gauges don't rely on electricity at all.
There is a tube from the oil port to the gauge.
Inside the gauge uses a bourdon tube connected to the indicator needle.
This tube is coiled up like a watch spring.
When pressure acts on it, it wants to straighten out, and this makes the needle sweep around.

A Tee is just a plumbing part so that a single source can feed two things at once.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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