Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Gary Lewis
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I'll let Jim, the chemist, answer the question about cleaning that filler pipe.

But I'll answer about an '87 filler pipe on an earlier tank.  Do not do it.  It'll take forever to fill the tank at the station.

You can read about it in this post on Big Blue's thread, but an '87 or later filler and a '86 or earlier tank is a bad combination.  The reason being that in '87 the fillers changed such that the gas goes down the inner hose instead of the outer hose, like on a Bullnose.  But the Bullnose tank has a tab into which the inner hose is supposed to go, but the '87 and later hose won't go there due to its larger size.  And turbulence is the result and that makes them very hard to fill.  Been there, done that, for a loooooong time.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

ArdWrknTrk
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In reply to this post by Papelione
The '87/ trucks flow fuel through the centre and vent around the circumference.

This makes for smoother filling (as Gary can recently attest) but the two parts do not interchange.

Hydrochloric acid will burn the rust off, but it will also remove any galvanizing.
If you do this, it would be wise to follow up with mild phosphoric acid rinse to create a passive layer on the vent tube.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
Thx

Will try with acid. Just bought 36% HCL at the hardware store.
Thinking a dilution 1:1 with water, and have baking soda and water as a safety precaution.

Phosforic acid "PA", sounds like a good idea.
Looks like it is used in desinfektion for home brewing beer, I can get a 10% "PA".
Would that do the trick?

Should I treat with "PA" right after the HCL treatment or just use it some time before reinstalling?

Was thinking I should rinse the HCL mix off with water and baking soda wash. And then the"PA"

1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Rinse the first HCL off with water and allow the part to air dry.
It will have a light coating of 'flash rust'

No need to make it 'base' before applying another acid.

Then the 10% phosphoric solution will turn this to a protective black phosphate.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
Thank you.

Will give it a go today.

How long time do you think submerged in 18% HCL?

4-5 hours?
1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
Report from the garage i North.

Parts are starting to drop in. This week I should have everything.
Fillerneck was free of rust after a weekend in HCL dilution, will treat it With p_acid today.

Unfortunately, fuel lines from rear tank to TSV was full of Surface rust, ( blew compressed air through them). Ordered aluminium tubes and will buy koning and bending Tools.
New TSV should be here tomorrow.

Frame is clean now, should I treat it With some rust inhibitor? maybe the tank aswell, or is it overkill since it is a 3 season truck, and will problably never drive in snow again , no deep rust on frame what so ever.

/C
1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Christian - I'm not sure you should use aluminum for your fuel lines.  I'm not up on that so maybe Jim will have a better idea.

On the frame, I'd coat it with something like POR-15 while you have it clean and easily accessable.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Papelione
I think I would treat the frame if I had the bed off.
You will never have better access, and it is no fun from underneath.

The issue with aluminium is that it has a very limited Young's modulus and readily work hardens.
You would definitely be better off with something like the nickel/copper line as used for brakes.
This won't need to be annealed after forming, and won't act as an anode when attached to a steel frame.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
Hi

Oh I am sorry too hear that.

Last weekend I was trawling the internet for tubing in the right dimensions.
3/8 and 5/16, but I could only find one of them In copper nickel.

The threads I read recommended steel, but that was hard to bend.

Holley states on its homepage that aluminum is commonly used as fuel lines and just now I called the Swedish vendor that is selling the tubes and he almost laugh at me when I mentioned that all tubing is prone to cracking.

I put you guys in very high regard though, is there any place I can get these dimensions what you know off? if so I will order it.

just to be sure, since it is on the way can I use it ? or is it just stupid?

I was thinking 37,5 degree double flare and fuel hose with clamp, sounds ok?

will find a POR-15 Norwegian variant:=)
1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
I would not fear getting in your truck with aluminium fuel lines, but I don't find steel too hard to bend or flare.
Go ahead and use it!  

Stainless steel is a bugger to reverse flare by hand.

Aluminium air con lines are usually annealed and hardened through and through.
But they are not subject to the chloride that a line down on the frame is.

If I had to do this, I would probably have used steel brake line as it comes pre flared with fittings in lengths up to ~3 metres here in the U.S.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
Ok thx I will try it out:=)

Got the TSV today, new in box straight out of 1984, was a little cool.

Small bag of fittings followed, not sure what the are for. Will bench test tomorrow like I did the old one.

1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Gary Lewis
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Looks good!  Hope it works nicely.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Papelione
Very nice!  
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
Day off today, so wanted to get on with the truck.

Weather has been really bad for September, it can be a fantastic month with clear crisp air and beautiful colors but this year its been raining every day it feels.

Luckily I have a little garage that doubles a workshop in the summer period.

Tested the new TSV, works beautifully, sprayed it internally with silicon spray, and mounted all hoses, thought this would save me some hassle upon final installment, and I guess it did.

Managed to install the TSV between rain clouds with new hoses and clamps.

Next will be installment of: rear tank, rear pump, front pump and new rear fuel lines, off which all has arrived with the exception off the Aluminum tubes, (ordered steel ones as well).

Will try with steel and if to difficult to bend I will go with aluminum.

Shopped pipe cutter, and flaring tool today, couldn't find a tube reamer but maybe something else can be used?

To all of you have a nice weekend.

picture of TSV before installment.



1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Gary Lewis
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Good luck!  Should work out perfectly.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
OK

Installed new front pump, fresh out of the box.

Pump works great truck fires right up, which usually is a little hard work after a long time not in action.

Sending unit unfortunately does´nt move at all, like it is not even connected.

Shifting front /rear on dash, or disconnecting wire to to pump does nothing.

Could I have missed something upon installation? sending arm moves and looks ok.

/C
1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Have you tried grounding the DB/Y or Y/LB wire with the switch turned to that tank?  You don't even have to pull the wire off the tank.  Just put a jumper on it to ground and turn the key to On.  The gauge should go to Full within a few seconds.  Or put a test light on the wire at that point and it should pulse.  That proves that the wiring to that point is good.

If that doesn't work then go to the DB/Y or Y/LB wire going into the tank switching valve and either ground it or put your test light on it.  And if that doesn't work, check the Y/W wire at the tank switching valve.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
Front tank wire has Power in key "run" position, but rear tank has Power only in "start".

Testet With test light and used the old front pump, and cleaned it up and sender Works on that one.

Took the pump from the New unit and swapped it to the old unit and now sender and pump is working on the front tank. Rear pump is installed, and I am waiting for tubing to arrive so I can finish the job.

Weather looks to be better for the NeXT week so hopefully I will be able to finish everything within a week or two.

Best regards

Christian
1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Gary Lewis
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You are making progress, and as Jim says, progress is GOOD!

Speaking of Jim, I've not heard from him in several days.  Have you?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

Papelione
This post was updated on .
Aluminium tubing arrived now, very Nice to work With, steel tubing will arrive Next week. My flaring tool only makes 45 degree double flares, They will fit nicely with AN-6 3/8 and 5/16- pipe to hose fittings.

Wish I had a bead flaring tool, but would have needed one for 5/16 and one for 3/8 and they are 150 dollar each before shipping and customs…….

No his last entry in this thread was sept. 17.

All well Jim? :=)

1984, F250, 2wd, 460, manual.
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