Little Blue 82

Thanks Gary. When I tried to start it with the choke just barely open, it would not idle at all. I had to keep my foot on the gas to get it to run.

I am guessing I need to open the choke up a little more.

Yes, it sounds like it needs to be open just a bit more.  Usually turning it a mark on the housing is about right to dial one in if it is close.

So, I have an NV246 transfer case from a 2000 silverado z71. Its the automatic push button 4wd system. I have a 4.8 liter 2011 year model VVT Vortec with harness and computer. Its setup for a 6 speed automatic, the computer is anyway. Used 6 speeds are $1200!!! I am thinking about the swap. But I'd probably need to get a more affordable 4L80E 4 speed transmission, and reprogram the computer. I do have a 99 Silverado with the correct computer, harness, and transmission just sitting here....

Does anyone know if a Vortec/4L80E/NV246 has ever been put into a bullnose? I'd be interested in any clearance issues.

Luckily, my truck came with the SROD 4speed that shares the same trans tunnel hole with the NP208 shifter. I think it would be easy to mount a floor shifted automatic with an electronically engaged transfer case.

I could keep the manual locking hubs for now, and swap in the bronco's autolocking setup later. Should be easy to actuate the auto hubs with the electrical signal for the t-case.

I don't know the answer to the question, but have one of my own: Which side does the transfer case sit on the Chevy?  Last I remember it is on the right and Ford's are on the left.  If so, that's a bit of a problem.

Gary Lewis wrote

I don't know the answer to the question, but have one of my own: Which side does the transfer case sit on the Chevy?  Last I remember it is on the right and Ford's are on the left.  If so, that's a bit of a problem.

Its the same configuration. Drivers side forward output shaft.

I agree with Gary in that you don't want unfiltered air going into the choke assembly.  All it takes is a microscopic piece of dirt to jam up the choke and render it useless.  

A *properly-tuned* carburetor with a working choke should start up just as good as any *properly-functioning* EFI with a working computer. A daily driven vehicle equipped with a carburetor should only require one single pump of the pedal to set the choke on a cold start and the vehicle should immediately fire. As soon as it fires, you should be able to drive away without any hesitations or stalling in any weather condition. A warm engine doesn't even need that. A warm engine should start right up with only a turn of the key just as fast or even faster than EFI. Anything less than that and there is a problem somewhere.

The next time you start your cold engine, pull the air cleaner lid before you start to get a good view of the top of the carburetor. Push the gas pedal down once to set the choke, and then look at the carburetor to see if the choke plate closes. It should close completely and with a little bit of tension.  The colder it is, the tighter that tension will be.

If that checks out, start the engine. As soon as it fires, check the choke plate again. It should crack open just a little bit and your engine should be running at a fast idle speed. As the engine warms up, the choke should gradually open all the way.

The fast idle speed should be set high enough so that the engine idles smoothly even in the coldest temperatures. Most people don't realize this, but the cold fast idle speed should be set when the engine is at full operating temperature.

This is how you do it:
With the engine fully warmed up and turned OFF, take one hand and open the throttle a little, and with your other hand pull the fast idle cam down until the "V" mark is lined up with the fast idle screw. While holding it there, release the throttle. This will hold the fast idle cam in position and "tricks" the carburetor into fast idle mode. Then, start the engine again, but DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL. If you do, the fast idle cam will drop down and you will have to repeat the previous steps again. Now you simply turn the fast idle screw to the specified fast idle RPM. It is usually 1500 RPM or so.

This is done to to keep the fast idle speed right under different temperatures.  When the temperatures are warmer, your engine will start closer to 1500 RPM and idle smoothly.  When temperatures are colder, your engine will start a bit lower than 1500 RPM, but it should still idle smoothly. (You wouldn't want a very high fast idle speed on a stone cold engine in single digit weather.) In either case, you should be able to drive away immediately without any problems.  As you drive the vehicle, the choke should automatically come off gradually as the engine warms up.  

Just like any modern vehicle with EFI, it is actually better for your engine to drive away sooner, rather than let it sit and "warm up" or idle for a long time. Your vehicle will come up to full operating temperature faster in one mile of driving than if you let it sit at idle for 10 minutes.

The stock thermostatic air cleaner will also help the vehicle to warm up faster and provide better driveability in all weather conditions. Carbureted engines and even throttle-body fuel injection systems need a hot air source for better fuel atomization in colder conditions and to prevent carburetor icing. It is a true "cold air" intake as well, so it will also help when the weather is hot. By keeping the incoming air going into the carburetor at a somewhat consistent temperature, seasonal carburetor adjustments are often no longer needed.  

Rick, Ill give it a shot. Ive been messing with it. Just cant seem to get the fast idle thing to work. I press on the gas all the way when cold, nothing happens.

So, fired up little blue this morning....lifters are rattling like nuts. What the heck? Temps have cooled off, so maybe the oil is a little thick and not pumping up the lifters?

I changed the oil Saturday night. I wonder if that has something to do with it? I drove the truck yesterday without any lifter noise. This morning it was obvious. Not an exhaust leak. For sure lifters.

I used Rural King's oil and a motorcraft oil filter. I wonder if Rural King's oil is crap.

It meets SAE SN GF-5. Harvest Kink is the brand. Never used it before, it was $9 for a 5 quart jug. I probably got what I paid for. Quick search online, no one seems to have issues with it. Maybe the 300 just doesn't like it.

Definitely possible..
What weight are you running?

I use diesel oil, 15/40 summer and 5/40 winter, but we see a lot more cold weather up here.

10w-30.

If the filter has an anti-drain back valve it may not be working
or
They no longer install the anti-drain back valves in the filter to save money?
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

If the filter has an anti-drain back valve it may not be working
or
They no longer install the anti-drain back valves in the filter to save money?
Dave ----

I dont know. Im going to get some higher quality oil and change it out to see if it helps.

Motorcraft FL1-A oil filter is available at Walmart for <$5.00. It has the anti-drain back valve.

Dave, That is what I use. I buy them at Rural King. I used 10w-30 Harvest King oil for the first time. I suspect this old engine doesnt like it.
Going to get a better oil.

Ray

Well, it is not the filter. Since so little time on the oil, drain in a clean catch pan and use for a lawn mower?

1986F150Six wrote

Well, it is not the filter. Since so little time on the oil, drain in a clean catch pan and use for a lawn mower?

Sounds like a good idea to me.

1986F150Six wrote

Well, it is not the filter. Since so little time on the oil, drain in a clean catch pan and use for a lawn mower?

It may not be the filter but could be if QC was sleeping when that one came down the line
Dave ----