Little Blue 82

I cant find a carb spacer anywhere that is setup for coolant flow through. Maybe I am not searching proper keywords.

Doesn't the engine have to warm up first for one of those coolant plates to work?

I understand how Ford directed the exhaust gas at the bottom of the intake.
Maybe there's a resistive heat pad that would get up to 40C right away and then shut off, using an SCR or something?

Usually it's not a spacer, but a plate bolted to the manifold floor beneath the carb.

Jim, now that you mention it, I think the C series has a place to bolt a factory exhaust manifold to. Maybe I can make use of that and put exhaust heat to it. But then I would always have heat to the intake. I dont want that in the summer.

No, you wouldn't.
And the factory thermostatic flap is prone to freezing up.

That's why I asked about a heating pad to lay in the bottom of the plenum (such as it is) that would cut on at cold start and shut off as soon as the CT*Sensor* opened.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

No, you wouldn't.
And the factory thermostatic flap is prone to freezing up.

That's why I asked about a heating pad to lay in the bottom of the plenum (such as it is) that would cut on at cold start and shut off as soon as the CT*Sensor* opened.

Jim, looks like someone makes a heat plate that bolts to the bottom of the manifold. Offenhauser has cast into their manifolds NOT to use a heat coolant plate....hmmmm...

Ray Cecil wrote

I cant find a carb spacer anywhere that is setup for coolant flow through. Maybe I am not searching proper keywords.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-352-390-428-CARBURETOR-SPACER-4-BARREL-PCV-AND-WATER-GALAXIE-C2AE-9A589-B/192841161662?epid=11033830428&hash=item2ce63a9bbe:g:pUAAAOSw0T9cdse3

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-352-390-CARBURETOR-SPACER-WITH-WATER-OUTLET-GALAXIE-THUNDERBIRD-MUSTANG/273969308409?epid=1189825720&hash=item3fc9d7e2f9:g:nZEAAOSwas9dV4eM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/65-68-Ford-C5AE-9A589-A-390-410-428-4V-FE-WATER-HEATED-CARBURETOR-SPACER-PLATE/253778905868?epid=2070460287&hash=item3b1666cb0c:g:fRwAAOSwoA1bWlae

Well I must be a monkey's uncle....

I don't think they're so concerned about 1 bar, as much as they're concerned about the bottom of their alloy intake corroding out due to galvanic action.

I might build one. I would keep the coolant off the intake. I am thinking a solid block of aluminum designe to fit on the bottom of the intake. Then run coolant through that block.

Just slap an electric heating pad inside the intake.
Plenty of them for lab or industrial use.

Waiting for the coolant to heat up is missing the point.
You don't need it by then, unless it's really humid and you're experiencing icing

I don't think you will get enough heat transfer with that set up and I have not heard of anyone having issues with a Offy intake and running water to heat it.

As for the carb heating plate I also don't think it will work to heat the air to keep the fuel & air together.
It was made to heat the carb as the carb would ice up and stop working, not heat the air.
From what was posted the TBI does not need to be heated and they hint the same of the air but I say differently.

Could some of this fuel dropping out of the air because of the cold air be over come with warm incoming air pulled from the exh. manifold or header pipe like the stock air filter did?
Maybe and then when it heats up pull in cool air like the stock filter does.

I still think you will need the bottom of the intake heated and I don't think having it heated when the motor is up to temp that big a deal to have to set up a valve to close with a knob on the dash.

Go with a heating plate on the bottom of the intake and don't look back.

Could also ask who is running the plate on an Offy over on (for give me) FTE in the 300 six engine area.
There is also a few running TBI on their 300's
Dave ----

I suspect the heating plate to be the best idea. But I dont want coolant touching the intake.

I think I will make something.

The reason I dont wanter coolant hitting the manifold is there is a chance it'll leak. A solid block of aluminum with some passages drilled into it, transfering heat to the intake should do.

Which is why I said get an electric resistance heater and set it up so it shuts off as the coolant gets warm enough to change the map of a stock sensor.

Hell, could even get 100*C pipe wrap and do it up like a turbo exhaust manifold (in reverse)
Heat when you really need it. Stops when it, or the engine gets to temp.
Unless you have the sickly 40A alternator I don't see a downside.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Unless you have the sickly 40A alternator I don't see a downside.

Hey, ease up on us 40amp alternator guys...lol.

Cory, I'm just saying I don't think a 40A unit makes enough power to drive the piece of heat trace needed.

40A is more than enough to run a truck that doesn't have power everything, but the 3G will put out 65A at idle, and that's easily enough to pour heat into the intake.

These things are used all over for industrial process control.
Can be had in many heat ranges, configurations, and watts per square inch.

It really is the simple solution to driving heat into the intake.
Especially since aluminum is such a good conductor.

No waiting for coolant to get to temp.
No chance for leaks.
Easy to switch on or off automatically.
Incredibly durable and suited to harsh environments.

But you would want one at about 20W per square inch to get it warm quickly.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Cory, I'm just saying I don't think a 40A unit makes enough power to drive the piece of heat trace needed.

Oh I know, I was just joking.

Most of the time I drive my truck, the only thing the 40amp alternator is feeding is the Duraspark system, and on occasion the headlights;).

Completely understood on the heat trace and power requirements. I get it.

Ray has a background in industrial design.
I can't understand he isn't familiar with this stuff.

When Omega Engineering was here in Stamford (before the scandal) we would go dumpster diving for all kinds of stuff like this, thermocouples, rocket rated relays, gauges, pyrometers, etc...

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Ray has a background in industrial design.
I can't understand he isn't familiar with this stuff.....

Who said I wasnt Jim? Careful, dont get personal about it. This isnt a competition.