Eddy Myrtle

Fenders on...


I also aligned the dizzy as best I could to allow for some adjustment, but there is barely any. I had to file away some of the base just to get the bit I have now. If the timing needs significant adjusting I'm going to have to figure out a different orientation for the dizzy, or take considerably more off the base.





And Eddy can now be BB's little cousin? I came up with this idea when I realized the snorkel wouldn't fit on the gap of the stock outlet anyway. And this orientation makes use of an original indentation on the base. Unfortunately, the stock inlet will be cold(if I add a duct) or hot only.





I'm trying to reconfigure my fender accoutrements as I did not like the stock placements... And I have a couple extra now. I probably won't put the jack back on the fender either.



I also tied up the fuel supply. I will look to improve this in the future. The manual choke also got ticked off. It uses the 4WD wire grommet. I wanted to place the interior handle next to the lights/wiper switches, but the cable was just too short. I'm content with it's current placement next to the hood release.







Lastly, the new vapor line...





I had just finished installing the vapor line when I started wondering how exactly the system would work with my new carb... I'm not sure how the vapor system works to begin with, but I understood that the fuel vapors from the tank got trapped in the canister and then pulled to the carb to be burned off while running. Well, I assumed it went directly to the carb. I just read a post by Dave saying he wants to removed and plug the line from the canister to the PCV valve... Does that mean the top connection on the PCV valve is for the 'feed' from the canister? And thus the fuel and engine vapors get pulled jointly into the carb to be burned off?

You are making significant progress!  

On the dizzy, you are just trimming the base of the cap?  If so, that shouldn't be a problem.

Now, for being BB's little cousin, I'm loving it.  But, is there no chance for dual snorkels?  Some place, probably back on FTE, I reported on the different snorkels available.  I found that there are several different ones, and they have differing departure angles, but up/down as well as left/right.  In addition, it is fairly easy to drill the spot welds, change the angle, and then either braze or spot-weld it back.  So I think you could have a 2nd snorkel.

Then there's the hot/cold thing.  Why can't you have heated inlet air?

And there are at least two ways that the vapors from the charcoal canister(s) are sucked out.  One is as Dave said, via the PCV valve.  The other is a very complex set of solenoid valves that vent into the carb itself.

Gary Lewis wrote

On the dizzy, you are just trimming the base of the cap?  If so, that shouldn't be a problem.

Yes, I'm just filing away at the edge of the base. It seams to be pretty significant aluminum, so I'm not concerned. I'm more concerned that the 4 'corners', where the cover attaches to the base, limit the orientation options and therefor adjustment range... The 'corners' consist of little hooks that swing underneath the base, you can see one in the closeup picture just behind the bolt head.

Gary Lewis wrote

Now, for being BB's little cousin, I'm loving it.  But, is there no chance for dual snorkels?  Some place, probably back on FTE, I reported on the different snorkels available.  I found that there are several different ones, and they have differing departure angles, but up/down as well as left/right.  In addition, it is fairly easy to drill the spot welds, change the angle, and then either braze or spot-weld it back.  So I think you could have a 2nd snorkel.

Then there's the hot/cold thing.  Why can't you have heated inlet air?

Yes, I'll definitely look into getting a snorkel for the stock opening, but as I mentioned the opening is the same size as the duct, not the snorkel from my stock cleaner. I'm sure I can find a workaround though(the shoulders on my snorkel wasn't big enough to cover the opening though), then hot/cold air could be an option on both inlets. I only mentioned that in the current setup without a full snorkel in the stock location and either leaving the stock inlet open or adding a duct, it would only have hot or cold air, but not a combination of both on that side. I'm actually surprised that the van I took the cleaner off had no snorkel on it, just that plastic outlet... It was a '78, but still.

Gary Lewis wrote

And there are at least two ways that the vapors from the charcoal canister(s) are sucked out.  One is as Dave said, via the PCV valve.  The other is a very complex set of solenoid valves that vent into the carb itself.

The PCV route is definitely the one for me. I was concerned for a while there that my new vapor line was going to be wasted... Now my concern is that Dave is considering removing his to increase MPG. What's the alternative? Leaving it disconnected? Surely the canister couldn't trap an infinite amount of vapors?

I offered up a snorkel in my U-techcenter post.
You could check the part# listed and compare the size.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F171866047017

Since its coming from what is likely a F or E350 I'm going to say it is probably big enough.

Thanks Jim. I'll scavenge the yards around here first, before I resort to an online purchase. The complete air cleaner was only $15, I was just unlucky in getting one without a snorkel...

Oh yeah, no problem.
Sometimes U-haul know what they've got and sometimes it's like they're paying you to take it.

At least you have a part number you can let the junkyard cross in their Hollander list.
Maybe they can even search for you?

Sac79 wrote

I had just finished installing the vapor line when I started wondering how exactly the system would work with my new carb... I'm not sure how the vapor system works to begin with, but I understood that the fuel vapors from the tank got trapped in the canister and then pulled to the carb to be burned off while running. Well, I assumed it went directly to the carb. I just read a post by Dave saying he wants to removed and plug the line from the canister to the PCV valve... Does that mean the top connection on the PCV valve is for the 'feed' from the canister? And thus the fuel and engine vapors get pulled jointly into the carb to be burned off?

Gary Lewis wrote

Then there's the hot/cold thing.  Why can't you have heated inlet air?

And there are at least two ways that the vapors from the charcoal canister(s) are sucked out.  One is as Dave said, via the PCV valve.  The other is a very complex set of solenoid valves that vent into the carb itself.

On the hot/cold is he running a header or EFI manifolds?
If so without making a tin shield to fit around the header tubes or manifold he could not have heated air.
I am running EFI manifolds and I do have the factory filter assy. so it can pull warm air from that area but I don't count on it.
I also have hot water heating the factory intake and it has not gotten that cold here since I got the truck on the road but no issues so far.

As for the vapor line.
Gary is right the factory had this system of electric valves and things but I was missing them on my truck and the parts truck came with no motor so I did the next thing and ran it like the factory just with out the valves.

Link to the picture on my site so you can click on it to make larger to see.
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100/20160606_165929
This is the one I followed from my parts truck as everything on my truck came from it at this point.

Now I had a high idle issue where I could not lower it and tracked it to a vacuum leak and it turned out to be the vapor hook up on the PCV, it was pulling to much vacuum and caused the leak.
As a fix I installed the smallest Holley jet I had in my "pit box" and I was able to lower the idle speed.

That brings us up to this weekend. The MPG on my truck is pretty poor at mid to high 14's, hit 15 MPG only once and I got 4000 miles on the truck since November 2019.
I am thinking that I might still be pulling too much vacuum from the vapor system and causing the poor MPG.

I filled the truck up last week and has been parked as I had no work. Well Saturday I went to a cruise in down the road and hope to have work after the holiday so I cut the vacuum line close to the PCV and plugged it on both sides of the line and will run a bunch of tanks (remember I have 2) to see what I get for MPG.
I can tell you the idle speed has come down a little bit so the vacuum still had to be too much.

So if you do pull vacuum from the top of the PCV you will need to "throttle down" the vacuum being pulled at least for the idle speed part as I don't know of the MPG part yet.

Good luck
Dave ----

Hi Dave, I have EFI manifolds, so yes I won't have heated air like factory intended. It will just be air from inside the engine bay, or outside... Being in Alabama, I'm not too concerned with 'cold' air being a problem. I have looked at threads on Fordsix about adding the water jacket to the intake, but I think I'll see if it's needed first.

As for the vapor system, sorry, but as I mentioned I don't really understand the system(like most things on truck). I've read that gas caps used to be vented, but that was obviously bad for people's health and the environment etc. So then they came up with the vapor system to not only prevent it from escaping into the air, but harnessing the energy. Great, so what happens when you block the lines? My guess would be nothing, as I think my old vapor line running from the tank was probably blocked for a long time...

Sac79 wrote

Hi Dave, I have EFI manifolds, so yes I won't have heated air like factory intended. It will just be air from inside the engine bay, or outside... Being in Alabama, I'm not too concerned with 'cold' air being a problem. I have looked at threads on Fordsix about adding the water jacket to the intake, but I think I'll see if it's needed first.

As for the vapor system, sorry, but as I mentioned I don't really understand the system(like most things on truck). I've read that gas caps used to be vented, but that was obviously bad for people's health and the environment etc. So then they came up with the vapor system to not only prevent it from escaping into the air, but harnessing the energy. Great, so what happens when you block the lines? My guess would be nothing, as I think my old vapor line running from the tank was probably blocked for a long time...

On the heated intake give it a try worst that can happen is you need to add it down the road. Also how much you will be driving the truck when it cold out.

As for the vapor I don't know how much "harnessing the energy" there is?
It is mostly so the vapors don't pollute the air just like the PCV over the road draft tube.
As long as the vapors, gas & crank case, are pulled back into the motor to be burned all is good.

And the capping of the lines, that did cross my mind.
I think the worst would be if I cant pull gas from the tank(s), non-vented cap, and run out of gas.
At that point I will pull the gas cap or the plug in the line and rethink the system.
Yesterday was a little test as I drove maybe 5 miles at 60-65 MPH and did not have any issues with the tank I am on.
The real test will be when I go to work because 98% on the high way at 65+ MPH.
Dave ----

Well my plan is to run Eddy in the winter(no AC necessary) and the Toyota in the summer(which will hopefully have it's AC fixed at some point this year), but as I said, 'cold' is a relative term here in Alabama.

I'll run the fuel vapors through the PCV system to begin with then, but I'm still curious as to how your test/trial will play out, so I'm looking forward to your findings.

Sac79 wrote

Well my plan is to run Eddy in the winter(no AC necessary) and the Toyota in the summer(which will hopefully have it's AC fixed at some point this year), but as I said, 'cold' is a relative term here in Alabama.

I'll run the fuel vapors through the PCV system to begin with then, but I'm still curious as to how your test/trial will play out, so I'm looking forward to your findings.

I hope to have AC on my truck before it get to hot here but if not my Durango is the AC back up.

I want to run 2 full fill ups, remember I have 2 tanks to run thru, before I say if the vapor thru the PCV hurt the MPG.
Thing is I only drive the truck if I work and all last week I did not work.
This week I don't know what is going to happen. I worked today but they are talking rain for the rest of the week so maybe no work?
Dave ----

Finally finished up the engine bay wiring... Also, new radiator got installed.



I paid extra for the 'Ford' logo on the marker lamps...



I have a washer/coolant reservoir from a later truck, but it's nasty(and it's proving difficult to clean), so I'm sticking with mine for now.







Vapor system... Complete(modified) and hopefully functioning.





Annoyingly the battery cable I bought on RA is too short, about 42" compared to 48", so the frame ground does not reach the frame. I considered buying a new cable, but decided on adding a 'ground connection' for now. I can't think of much or anything being grounded to the frame anyway?



I added the heavy duty headlight harness as another luxury. I don't foresee doing a lot of nighttime driving, but I'd rather do it now while I'm doing the wiring anyway.



And finally, the passenger's side fender is still a little 'busy' for my taste, but not quite a rat's nest. I left the funny orientation of the solenoid and only turned the regulator to a similar angle.



I'm stuck between starting the truck up or adding the bed first. I think just like delaying doing the wiring I'm now looking for reasons to delay starting the engine... Out of fear that it won't I guess.

Looks great, Rob!  

On the ground, since your ground wire also runs to the starter and your tail lights should be grounded back to the cab, there isn't anything else I can think of that grounds to the frame.  Just make sure you have the engine/cab ground in place.

Looks great, Rob!  

Have faith. 🙏
It is soooo satisfying when that engine catches after a long rest!  

Does look good.

On the ground I wanted to go with what the factory had and had to make my own cable.

Right cable is the ground the left is the starter cable and is an insulated holder.


Your right finder where will the jack go?
On the head lights the HD part is relays right? If not I would do them difference is night & day!

On starting the motor: Many many years ago when I had a shop with my dad a lot of our cars did not run unless you jumped them and that was a PITA even more so in winter.
When I left my dad & the shop I said to my self what ever I had would run and not with a jump start.
So on my project when the motor went back in I got it running as soon as I could.
This way I could move it if needed but it made me feel like I got something big done on the truck.

I also had to move the truck when working on the bed and fitting it on and off.
Dave ----

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks great, Rob!  

On the ground, since your ground wire also runs to the starter and your tail lights should be grounded back to the cab, there isn't anything else I can think of that grounds to the frame.  Just make sure you have the engine/cab ground in place.

Thanks Gary. Yes, tail lights will be grounded to the dash frame. I added a ground wire to the passenger's side fender(from the negative battery cable). I've got the engine/cab ground installed. I added a ground for the alternator to the fender as well. And I will add grounds between the fenders and cab, smaller than BB's though.

Thanks Jim, I am quite excited about the prospect of hearing the engine burst into life...

So did you make one of the two in your first picture Dave? The top one looks like what I bought. It has the tab like the original, total length just too short. You can buy longer ones, but they don't have the tab. I'm happy with how it's set up now, but it would be easy to make a better replacement if needed.

Have you experienced any issues with the wires being so close to the Y-pipe? My starter wire is very close(about an inch at the closest), but it does have the sleeve which should hopefully melt or at least deform before other issues pop up.

And yes, I might start the truck before finishing the bed. It still has to be cleaned and painted underneath. Those things would be easier and less messy outside and right now the bed is stuck behind the truck...

Sac79 wrote

So did you make one of the two in your first picture Dave? The top one looks like what I bought. It has the tab like the original, total length just too short. You can buy longer ones, but they don't have the tab. I'm happy with how it's set up now, but it would be easy to make a better replacement if needed.

Have you experienced any issues with the wires being so close to the Y-pipe? My starter wire is very close(about an inch at the closest), but it does have the sleeve which should hopefully melt or at least deform before other issues pop up.

And yes, I might start the truck before finishing the bed. It still has to be cleaned and painted underneath. Those things would be easier and less messy outside and right now the bed is stuck behind the truck...

The top cable is the one I made.
It was to long and did not have the tab.
I had to cut it shorter and added the end.
I took the tab off the old cable, removed some of the insulation on the new cable and installed the tab.

The 2nd picture is how I found the cables secured to the frame on my parts truck and believe that was factory so I put it back that way on my truck.
I don't think the cables are that close to the exh pipe that I worry.
Dave ----

Got it! 

And yes, the headlight harness came with the relays, you can see them in the one picture at the front corner of the passenger fender. I got the custom headlights from LMC as well.