Daily Rebuild

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Daily Rebuild

blackdog
Hey all, this is my first post. I am a total newbie, but I love my bullnose (got me coast to coast) and want to make it road-ready again. I have had the good fortune of running into Steve83 on another forum, who recommended this site to me. I am about to pull the engine out of my trusty "darla". While it is out, I plan to take off the bed, front fenders and doors, and sand down and repaint the frame. Also, I wanted to swap out the bad alternator and swap a 3G in there. One thing that I have been unable to solve is how to get the horn into the steering wheel again. Seems like a frequent thing that people have installed some sort of horn bypass on these bullnoses mounted next to the headlight switch. I'd like to keep this pretty close to stock as far as the interior, so I will find a dash without the hole for the horn bypass drilled into it. Lastly, my gear lever is loose as can be, and the gear indicator doesn't work. My haynes manual doesnt help here. If anybody has any suggestions or questions, regarding these issues (not so much engine rebuild), I would appreciate all comments. Happy new year!
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Blackdog - Welcome!  Glad Steve sent you our way.  

I hope you will document your project with pics and frequent updates as we like to live vicariously, seeing the progress others make.

But, since you posted in the "Projects" section not everyone is going to see it.  (This forum is a bit odd in that you have to "subscribe" to threads, folders, or the whole forum in order to get email notification of a new post or thread.  And not everyone has subscribed to this folder.)  So, you should go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new topic/thread in that folder to introduce yourself.  Most people watch that folder and will welcome you.

Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I can add you to that if you'll just give me a city.

As for the horn, I've not known of many people having problems with them.  The circuit is pretty simple, so I'm not sure why someone would have to bypass the switch on the steering column.  Apparently yours is bypassed?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Daily Rebuild

Rembrant
In reply to this post by blackdog
blackdog wrote
Lastly, my gear lever is loose as can be, and the gear indicator doesn't work.
That gear indicator issue seems to be showing up more and more these days. I'm not sure if anybody has found a proper fix for the cable yet, but if anybody has, Gary will know about it.

I thought this fix in the link below was clever (and inexpensive), but you might not approve if you're trying to keep the interior original looking.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Hello-all-Hope-this-fall-has-been-good-to-you-so-far-Wondering-if-anyone-out-can-hook-me-up-with-a-sm-tp15848p15870.html

As for the shift lever itself being sloppy, there are some plastic bushings inside the column that wear and break down, making everything loose. Some of them are still available NOS on Ebay, and the odd one is still available from Ford.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/GT40 heads, BBK headers, Holley 4bbl, XE256H Comp Cam, M5R2 5spd swap, Magnaflow full duals. Fresh Medium Blue Metallic in August 2019.
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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
thanks! just posted my intro in the proper place! i'm stoked to have found your "garagemahal" lol

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:07 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:
Blackdog - Welcome!  Glad Steve sent you our way.  

I hope you will document your project with pics and frequent updates as we like to live vicariously, seeing the progress others make.

But, since you posted in the "Projects" section not everyone is going to see it.  (This forum is a bit odd in that you have to "subscribe" to threads, folders, or the whole forum in order to get email notification of a new post or thread.  And not everyone has subscribed to this folder.)  So, you should go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new topic/thread in that folder to introduce yourself.  Most people watch that folder and will welcome you.

Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I can add you to that if you'll just give me a city.

As for the horn, I've not known of many people having problems with them.  The circuit is pretty simple, so I'm not sure why someone would have to bypass the switch on the steering column.  Apparently yours is bypassed?
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI



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http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Daily-Rebuild-tp19789p19793.html
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NAML
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, I see it.  Good job!  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
In reply to this post by blackdog
Found a donor truck to take all the interior trim and dash / door panels from, along with a seat (this has been especially difficult to find in my area) and tinted one-piece rear windshield AND n.o.s. driver side door! Also found dash inlay from an 80-81 custom which I am really excited about, since I want my truck to look like an 80/1 with efi. Now all I need to find is a steering column and maybe a 80 grille and hood lettering (although lmc has the unpainted ones for about sixty bones, which is reasonable).

Any recommendations on wiring harness replacements? Painless looks like it should be good, and it says that the harness comes with all necessary connectors, although I have been told that the connectors are not available anywhere...

Next weekend I will be pulling off grille, radiator support and pulling/opening the engine! Pics coming forthwith
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Congrat's!  That should work out really well.

As for the wiring harness, what harness are you replacing?  American Autowire advertises some wiring for these trucks.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
I was looking to replace almost, if not all wiring.  Chassis, engine. 

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019, 5:39 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:
Congrat's!  That should work out really well.

As for the wiring harness, what harness are you replacing?  American Autowire advertises some wiring for these trucks.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI



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NAML
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

Gary Lewis
Administrator
That's not easily done.  In fact, I am not aware of anyone that markets the whole wire harness.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
Any threads on removing radiator core support? Looks like it's just some bolts to get it off, straightforward enough.
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I'm thinking that Steve83 posted something about that recently, but didn't find it on my search.  Perhaps it was on body mounts instead, but I really thought there was something.  Hopefully he will chime in.

But from my experience you need to soak the fasteners with penetrating oil for several days before trying to take things apart.  The way they were designed they capture water and rust, so expect to find rusted parts and maybe a rusted mount.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Daily Rebuild

Ferdinand
In reply to this post by blackdog
 Good afternoon blackdog,
 Gary is right, Steve83 has some really good reference material.  He has helped me plenty so far! I thought I’d chime in as well for what it’s worth. The radiator core support is not that difficult. My thread shows a lot of pictures of different states of mine being off & on, but I don’t think I ever took time to describe it. There are two primary bolts that go through bushings at the very front of your frame that holds a core support to the frame. Outside of that there are two fender bolts halfway up the front of the fender and then there are two bolts at the very top of the fender and that’s pretty much it. Of course it’ll take a minute to strip all the wiring out-of-the-way from it and if needed, pull all your grill and trim pieces.  If you want to see if you pictures let me know, I’m sure I have some I could load up. I’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end all together and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling  i’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end altogether and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling.Good luck!
'85 Bronco 351W HO, C6, 4X4, Full rebuild @ 51k original miles (fire), Edelbrock air gap intake & 600 cfm carb. w/elec. choke. 4" RC lift w/35's.Check the Projects Page if you're interested.
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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
Wow Ferdinand, that is a great idea taking the whole front off like that.. I already had removed grille and bezels, and radiator and fan/shroud. I do however want to strip paint from all body panels and repaint later. If I take the front pieces off as a unit, and then later separate them for paint, would it be easier to reconnect them before I put them back on frame or should I just leave them separate at that point? 

On Jan 27, 2019 1:42 PM, "Ferdinand [via Bullnose Enthusiasts]" <[hidden email]> wrote:
 Good afternoon blackdog,
 Gary is right, Steve83 has some really good reference material.  He has helped me plenty so far! I thought I’d chime in as well for what it’s worth. The radiator core support is not that difficult. My thread shows a lot of pictures of different states of mine being off & on, but I don’t think I ever took time to describe it. There are two primary bolts that go through bushings at the very front of your frame that holds a core support to the frame. Outside of that there are two fender bolts halfway up the front of the fender and then there are two bolts at the very top of the fender and that’s pretty much it. Of course it’ll take a minute to strip all the wiring out-of-the-way from it and if needed, pull all your grill and trim pieces.  If you want to see if you pictures let me know, I’m sure I have some I could load up. I’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end all together and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling  i’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end altogether and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling.Good luck!
'85 Bronco 351W HO, C6, 4X4, Full rebuild @ 51k original miles (fire), Edelbrock air gap intake & 600 cfm carb. w/elec. choke. 4" RC lift w/35's.Check the Projects Page if you're interested.



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NAML

86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

FuzzFace2
blackdog wrote
Wow Ferdinand, that is a great idea taking the whole front off like that..
I already had removed grille and bezels, and radiator and fan/shroud. I do
however want to strip paint from all body panels and repaint later. If I
take the front pieces off as a unit, and then later separate them for
paint, would it be easier to reconnect them before I put them back on frame
or should I just leave them separate at that point?
I think it depends on how you want to pull it all apart and put it back together.
I had 2 trucks, parts & project.
The project I pulled each fender with the inner liner then the radiator support, I was not looking to reuse them at that point.

The parts truck I pulled the full nose, fender w/liners bolted to the radiator support. I was looking to use this set up and figured with the fenders still bolted to the support would make it easier to line up when installing it back on the project truck.
Here you can see the full nose as pulled from the parts truck and the project truck fenders sitting to the left, the support is behind the far fender / nose.

Now after I got the nose back on the project truck and lined up I pulled each fender to weld up molding holes, do body work where the holes where and to paint the insides the project trucks color.



Doing it this way I was thinking when I install after painting it would take less fussing to line up.
I still need to install the hood so I am sure I will need to do a little more lining up.
Dave ----
81 F100 flare side 300 six/T18 project
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
Thanks fuzzface!

On Sun, Jan 27, 2019, 5:02 PM FuzzFace2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email] wrote:
blackdog wrote
Wow Ferdinand, that is a great idea taking the whole front off like that..
I already had removed grille and bezels, and radiator and fan/shroud. I do
however want to strip paint from all body panels and repaint later. If I
take the front pieces off as a unit, and then later separate them for
paint, would it be easier to reconnect them before I put them back on frame
or should I just leave them separate at that point?
I think it depends on how you want to pull it all apart and put it back together.
I had 2 trucks, parts & project.
The project I pulled each fender with the inner liner then the radiator support, I was not looking to reuse them at that point.

The parts truck I pulled the full nose, fender w/liners bolted to the radiator support. I was looking to use this set up and figured with the fenders still bolted to the support would make it easier to line up when installing it back on the project truck.
Here you can see the full nose as pulled from the parts truck and the project truck fenders sitting to the left, the support is behind the far fender / nose.

Now after I got the nose back on the project truck and lined up I pulled each fender to weld up molding holes, do body work where the holes where and to paint the insides the project trucks color.



Doing it this way I was thinking when I install after painting it would take less fussing to line up.
I still need to install the hood so I am sure I will need to do a little more lining up.
Dave ----
81 F100 flare side 300 six/T18 project
http://cars.grantskingdom.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck
http://cars.grantskingdom.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100



If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Daily-Rebuild-tp19789p21269.html
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NAML
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Also I noticed a 4 digit number on the floor pan when I pulled the dodge seat and the carpeting out. Any ideas on what this number indicates? At first I thought it was put there by a previous owner, but i couldn't find any seams from any welding that might have taken place, so i think it might be a factory code for packages or something. Floor was almost entirely rust-free except for a smallish triangular patch were a PO had put a piece of plastic underneath the insulation beneath the carpeting, which only trapped water, apparently. I dont think I'll have to replace that section, but wont know until I try to remove what rust is there. Cant see through any spots so we shall see how it goes.

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 9:07 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email] wrote:
Blackdog - Welcome!  Glad Steve sent you our way.  

I hope you will document your project with pics and frequent updates as we like to live vicariously, seeing the progress others make.

But, since you posted in the "Projects" section not everyone is going to see it.  (This forum is a bit odd in that you have to "subscribe" to threads, folders, or the whole forum in order to get email notification of a new post or thread.  And not everyone has subscribed to this folder.)  So, you should go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new topic/thread in that folder to introduce yourself.  Most people watch that folder and will welcome you.

Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I can add you to that if you'll just give me a city.

As for the horn, I've not known of many people having problems with them.  The circuit is pretty simple, so I'm not sure why someone would have to bypass the switch on the steering column.  Apparently yours is bypassed?
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI



If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Daily-Rebuild-tp19789p19793.html
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NAML
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

blackdog
Found a 4 digit code on the floor pan under the carpeting and insulation. Anyone know what this is?
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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Re: Daily Rebuild

Gary Lewis
Administrator
No, but do you have a pic?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Daily Rebuild

FuzzFace2
I wonder if that number is a ID number that manf. put on parts?
Look at door or kick panels and the number on the back that people call a "parts number" is a manf. ID number.
I never looked that close at the floors in my project truck before coating with bed liner for any numbers.
Maybe I can look over the parts truck to see if I find anything.
Dave ----
81 F100 flare side 300 six/T18 project
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Daily Rebuild

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Perhaps.  I don't know who manufactured the cabs for Ford.  I assumed they did, but don't know.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

1234