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Re: Dad's Truck Build
 
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Ow Gary!
That looks like it must have been painful after all the time and money you have into that cab. But it is progress. And Progress Is Good!  Just a suggestion. Dont rely on pop rivets to *pull* anything together. Use Clecos, or drill only the patch and use self tapping sheet metal screws to pull the patch tight. Then remove one screw at a time, drill for the rivet and install. On second thought... don't use Clecos. Because they are tough to clean and if panel bond gets into them you may as well toss them in the trash.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Steve - The piece was from an '85 regular cab, and was identical to the floor of Dad's truck. That let me move it back 2", which got the clearance I needed, but still have it mate to the floor nicely.
I wonder if a later floor would work as well, or maybe even better. I wish I still had Huck, both to have tried that as well as to get the crossmember for Big Blue.  Jim - It was nerve wracking to say the least. What if it doesn't work and I have a hole in the floor? But a lot of study and the Photoshop playing showed it would work, so I was game. As for the fasteners, I like the sheet metal screw suggestion. You are right that pop rivets don't always pull things together, and when I have the adhesive in there I sure don't want to be drilling a rivet out. But I think I'll drill pilot holes in the patch, then drill starter holes in the floor. And I'll do that today to ensure that it is going to go together nicely w/o having to bend things. Then I'll pick up the adhesive when we are in Tulsa on Monday and be ready to do the work on Tuesday. As said, Brandon recommended this adhesive, M1, and I talked it over with John and he thought it would be fine. One of its pluses is that it has good flexibility as well as adhesion. Initially I worried that it might not be strong enough, but with 16 pop rivets holding the patch on I am no longer worried about that. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
That's exactly what Ford recommends in this TSB:    I use JB Weld as the panel adhesive.  
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Good points, Jim. I'll check out what the additional costs are for that 3M 08115. But the pdf says:
Use with the following applicators: PN08117 (manual), PN 09930 (pneumatic). 3M™ Mixing Nozzle, PN 08193 (6/bag), PN 08194 (50/box).
Hadn't seen the last statement before just looking for the part #'s, but that probably explains why John said he'd tell whomever it was to sell to me. Meanwhile, back on the patch, it fits like shown below. The bottom pics are looking forward on the left, and looking rearward on the right. There's more gap than I want, and the screws are tight, so I'm going to massage the truck's floor up on the edges and see what I get. But I'm pretty sure I'll have to trim the rear cut back a bit. Oh yes, you can see the proximity of the seat belt anchors, which is one reason I want this to be solid. But with the adhesive on doubled pieces plus the rivets it should be at least as strong as it was originally.   
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ok, massaging the floor did the trick. Everything fits tightly except for the two grooves shown below in the old picture w/o massaging, and they have maybe a 1/4" gap. But the gap just goes back 1/8" or so before the two pieces come together. I'm thinking that the adhesive will fill that nicely, and any gap left will get filled with the undercoating John sprays on. Thoughts?
As for the accessories for the adhesive, Jim is absolutely right. Looks like I'd better see if I can borrow the applicator from John.  For 3M 08115 you need: 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive - 200 ml $413M 08117 MixPac Applicator Gun for 200 ml Cartridges $3493M 8193 Mixing Nozzle, 1 Pack $14
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Yup. That's why I chose 3M. At least the gun won't be obsolete in a year or two. But it's a big nut for a one off job. Ask Brandon about Hilti plural mix guns for setting rebar or threaded rod in concrete and block. Though they aren't quite so proud of them as 3M are. If your body man will loan it to you for a day, great! You're much better off. The mixing tip is a consumable, but this is why I floated the idea of mixing by hand. (It can be done, in a pinch)
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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