Adding Remote Locking

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
Can you diagram your wiring and upload it? That will be the easiest way to figure it out.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Littlebeefy
Littlebeefy wrote
Gary,
I tried this and must have done something wrong. Is it possible that I misinterpreted your wiring diagram? I cut the existing circuit on the pink/yellow and pink/green wires (not literally cut, using a jumper) and wired in the orange and white (orange/black and white/black, too) so now the lock and unlock switch MUST pass through the relay in the new control unit to complete the circuit. The passenger side now works on the door switch and the remote for both lock and unlock and the drivers door does nothing using either the switch or the remote. Was I supposed to interrupt the existing circuit like in your original diagram?
Thanks

Chad - I'm copying the diagram I think you are referring to here so it is easier to discuss.  But I agree with Scott, we need to see what you've done to figure it out.  It is just so hard to get one's head around the words w/o a drawing.


Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
Your drawing is accurate unless I did something wrong. Here’s a picture of everything hooked together except the ground:



The jumper pushes every wire wire through unmolested except the pink/yellow and pink/green. Also I am tapping 12 volts for the power supply from the black/white wire.

The power for the control unit as well as the yellow and yellow/black use the tap from the black/white wire:





The jumper going to the passenger side door side connects  pink/green to white and pink/yellow to orange.


Heading towards the dash, the jumper connects the pink/yellow to orange/black and the pink/green to black/white:



Also, I am hooking it up on the passenger side, not drivers side as shown in Gary’s diagram.
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
Now that I am typing it out I think I see what I did wrong
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
I have tried every combination of those 4 wires. No joy.

I’m going to do two things now:

1. I am going to exchange the remote system on the off chance it’s defective.

2. I am going to rebuild the jumper from scratch.

I’ll let you know if that solves the problem. I have no reason to believe that Gary’s instructions are flawed or that there is an issue somewhere else in my wiring.
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
Gary,
Can you clarify something for me before I rebuild the jumper?

Is it relevant which side the orange wires go to and which side the white wires go to? It seems like it should be, which leads me to some confusion about your diagram. If I am patching into the passenger side kick panel (instead of the drivers side as I interpret your drawing) should the orange/black wire and orange wire both go on the dash side of the jumper or the passenger door side of the jumper? Does it matter, as I suspect?

Thanks
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
If I understand the question correctly it matters. The wires coming from the driver’s switch bring the power and need to go to terminal 30 on the relay.

Was that the question?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
Hi Gary,
Basically, that's the question. I understand how a relay works thanks to a recent project wiring in a second electrical electrical system (pun intended), but the door lock circuit between the two doors is still a mystery to me (even though I added it to the truck myself).

If I understand you correctly, it doesn't matter whether you install on the passenger side or the drivers side, the orange pair should always go toward the drivers door and the white pair should always go towards the passenger door.

Thanks, again.
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, it doesn’t matter which side the relay is, but it needs to be oriented the way shown.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by Littlebeefy
For some reason, and Ford was not the only one who did it, the driver's door power lock switch is the slave switch with the passenger one being the master, completely opposite of the windows. When I added remote locking to Darth, I used a 1999 Crown Victoria driver's door module which also gave me the one touch down power window and the ability to have the keypad on the door.

FWIW, the 1994 up factory installed RKE system is the same as a Taurus, but the keypad input isn't used. With those it is possible to add the keypad by obtaining a plug and the innards for it and running the wires from the keypad location to the module under the dash.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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