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Adding Remote Locking

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Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

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Yes.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

You mean ja

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Was just looking for something else and ran across this, which is the jumper to add a 2nd horn to a Bullnose truck. The male connector plugs into the dark blue (DB, Scott

) cable and then the female connectors go to the horns.

So, the EVTM is wrong as it shows that jumper to be DB.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Guess it's good and bad that they stuck with Y/LG here. Consistent with the horn circuit but as we found - a little confusing when going off the EVTM.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Yup. But we got it figured out. Probably ought to update the EVTM's. Just added that to the ever-growing list of things in the Forum & Website Upgrades spreadsheet.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Regarding the Viper H1/3 and H1/4 Dome light question I had earlier. Checked and was told:

The H1/3 and H1/4 wires are the same as contacts 30 and 87 on a relay.

So the feature description that says an external relay is needed is incorrect if your unit has both 1/3 and 1/4.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

This post was updated on .

Somehow we need to turn this into a page in the documentation.

And, toward that end, Steve/FoxFord83 asked me the other day where to connect his system to be able to flash the hazards. I told him that the white/red wire between the hazard flasher and the turn/hazard switch would be the best place as that would be just one connection to get all four lights.

EDIT: The previous connection at the hazard flasher did not and cannot work. However, Scott suggested this connection, which should work just fine.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

This post was updated on .

Definitely.
I am planning to get a 535T someday so am making that a consideration in my wiring.
Going to swing by the jy real quick tomorrow as I am driving by and cut some connectors with some lengths of wire on both sides. Mentioned before but this will allow the factory wiring to remain unmolested and easily reverted because the cut donor connectors will be unconnected, flipped around, hooked into the factory connectors, and the wires between can be spliced/connected/etc. This is a preference and not a requirement as the same can be achieved through typical direct splice/scotch/snap lock methods.

To recap what has been mentioned (shopping list):

1. Dome light
a. Color: BK/LB
b. Location (option A): Under-dash courtesy light on either passenger or driver side.
c. Location (option B): B pillar - 3 terminals (grey connector). C202.
d. Location (option C): LH kick panel - 4 terminals (grey connector). C406
2. Tach kill/ground when armed
a. Color: DG/Y
b. Location: Engine bay LH. Connects to ignition module - 4 terminals (black connector). C323
3. Hot in crank and run
a. Color: R/LG
b. Location: Engine bay LH. Connects to ignition coil - 4 terminals (black connector). C325
4. Horn
a. Color: DB and Y/LG
b. Location: LH radiator support. 1 terminal (EVTM doesn't show accurately)
5. Locks/Windows (door harness connector)
a. Color: multiple
b. Location: Kick panel LH. 8 terminals (grey connector). C1953
6. Hazard Lights (parking light flash output)(security confirmation/alarm)
a. Color: W/R
b. Location (option A): Hazard flasher. Rear of fuse panel (need to determine which leg of the flasher is W/R)
c. Location (option B): LH side of steering column. 11 terminals (grey connector). C305

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Scott - That's a neat approach.

But I have a question about the Start in crank and run. This is just input to the security system and not a remote start. Right?

And on the horn, unless you just want to use factory colors there's no reason to hunt for the yellow/light green jumper. Just make one up with one male and two female 1/4" connectors.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

That should be 'Hot' and not 'Start'. Updated the post above. Yes, security only so that is just an input to the module to trigger the alarm if needed.

Yeah, the horn and the domelight option A don't really need factory connectors. I do want to use factory colors though unless something makes it impractical.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Happy hunting today. Pretty frosty down here. Probably worse up there. Gonna get wet tonight/tomorrow, so time is of the essence.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

It's definitely a mess everywhere around here. The tear down part of the jy was pretty deep due to the skid steers but the back lot was just slimy. I think I got everything I needed though. I realize that most will opt for direct splices vs the jumpers but I'll still take some pictures of my process - if nothing else it will show the connectors/wires that are of interest.

The whole taking the tach to ground part.
Would that be-

30 - wire going to coil tach post
87 -
87a - wire coming from ignition module
85 - FROM security module when armed (-500mA)
86 - constant +12v (should this be only in Start/Run?)

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

kramttocs wrote

The whole taking the tach to ground part.
Would that be-

30 - wire going to coil tach post
87 -
87a - wire coming from ignition module
85 - FROM security module when armed (-500mA)
86 - constant +12v (should this be only in Start/Run?)

I've been thinking that you want the relay to be "set", meaning pulled in, all the time when the security system is armed. Assuming that the "-500 ma" means it will sink up to 500 ma then you tie that to 85 as you said. And in this scenario the power to 86 needs to be hot at all times so the security system can set the relay.

The down side of doing it this way is that the relay is pulling 150 - 200 ma all the time the security system is set. So over time the battery is going to be pulled down. Given that, perhaps your suggestion of having power to the relay in Start & Run is better. If the thief tries uses the ignition switch or if they just run a jumper to the hot side of the coil the relay will set and ground the ignition.

But the wire going to the coil's tach post should go to 87, and 30 should go to ground. That way when the relay is set the coil is grounded, and since that's what the ignition module does the module can't cause the ignition to spark.

However, I'd use the tach wire in the cab rather than put the wiring under the hood. That way there's no way they can hot-wire the truck unless then get into the cab, find the relay, and disable it. And I'd do the wiring from above with the dash pad off.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

I left 87 blank but meant to put 87 - Ground.

Wouldn't that perform the same action?

I am really enjoying getting into the use of relays but am not yet to the point where I can easily picture it in my head. In your setup are you having two wires going into 87? In essence are you splicing into that wire vs splitting it like I was thinking? Trying to picture how the truck would run if the system isn't armed.

I can see the real benefit of having it up in the dash.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Not sure I follow.

But taking 87 to ground and splicing into the tach wire and taking that to 30 is what I'm thinking. That way with the relay quiescent everything works as normal, but with the relay set the tach wire goes to ground and the engine cannot run.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

I think it's the location that is putting us on different pages now that I looked at the diagram again.
Correct me if I am wrong but you are saying to take the bottom-most DG/Y (in the dash), splice into it with another wire that goes to ground when the relay is triggered?
Whereas I was working in the engine bay and using the top DG/Y and splitting that so that when the relay isn't triggered the module and coil are connected but when it is triggered the coil is taken to ground. Although in my case taking it to ground is likely redundant since disconnecting the wires would prevent starting.

The better security of the dash location aside, both would be functionally equivalent, correct?

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Yes, you are right in all cases. We were thinking of different locations and different methods.

I like the in-the-dash location for several reasons:

It is more secure since it can't be seen

It is also more secure since there are no wiring changes under the hood to reverse or cut out

There's no relay that needs to be parked under the hood, looking messy if by itself or being more complex if you put it in a PDB

But either approach works.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Hooked up the Viper 211HV tonight. Used the diagram in the first post (thanks again Gary!) as the starting point with a slight deviation in that I am using a dedicated power wire. Still need to hook up all the other stuff (horn, flashers, dome lights, etc) but just having the keyless entry puts a smile on one's face.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: Adding Remote Locking

Administrator

Cool! I hope to add a security system to Dad's truck, if not Big Blue, so am glad this is working out.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

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