Adding Remote Locking

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Wait!  The DB wire out at the horn goes hot when the horn is to honk!  Don't ground it.

You need to ground the coil to the horn relay, which then puts power on the other DB wire to the horn.

Or did I misunderstand?


Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
This post was updated on .
I just didn't explain myself at all is the problem so glad you pointed it out.

The relay is ground triggered.
A fused hot going to the coil and the source (30 and 86)
The ground Horn output from the Viper going to the other side of the coil (85)
Wire going from the output to the new branch in the jumper I made (87) - i.e 12v going to horn

------------------------
We talked about the hot in start and run earlier in the thread and that the long, vertical R/LG on the right was a candidate and wouldn't be engine specific.
That won't give the full 12v in Run though, right?

I plan on using a relay to give the security module 12v from the battery, but the drop in Run voltage would make pulling in the relay iffy?



Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
Trouble sleeping so went back to the evtm and excited to test this out tomorrow afternoon but I think C327 is the answer to Hot in Start and Run.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, C327 is perfect.  Full power in both Start & Run and, I assume, isn't otherwise used in your setup.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
In reply to this post by kramttocs
Gary and I had talked about various options for the horn relay since the keyless entry I am using can't seem to pull in the factory relay. At the time I opted to keep the factory relay and add in my own for the keyless entry/alarm (see a few posts above this). Have since agreed that having two relays is unnecessary so have removed the factory relay as well as the associated short harness/connector from the speed control harness.

Not a big or important change but just wanted to add my crudely drawn diagram here in case it helps anyone in the future.
This is with me using a relay in the engine bay because that is where my ssVEC is. As Gary mentioned, a possibly easier way is to just replace the factory relay with a bosch style one if you are also finding that your keyless entry/alarm can't pull it in.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

86 1/2 Brutus
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Be careful with the aftermarket cheap stuff.  we bought a kit for about 39 bucks with alarm and the whole 9 yards.  Nick ended up having to do some stuff because what they dont tell you in the instructions is that if you dont hurry up and get the keys out with your remote hanging on them, they will be locked inside the truck.
The instructions on most of these kits are very vague, very little wireing information and no information at all on how to insatll the aftermarket door locks.

From Nick:  Most of these china deluxe alarm systems have wires that connect to the interior lights and the ignition.  some of them will lock the doors about 30 seconds after the ignition has been turned off.  others will lock the doors after the last door has been closed.  either way, this is just enought time for you to remember your keys were in the truck and have them locked in.  I'm using mine as a convience module.  I got ride of the passive lock function.  But that takes alot of electronic reworking.  Later on i will build an alarm system that arms itself once the doors are locked with the key only.   I am working on a sense module that can tell when the key is in the ignition, if the door is locked with the key in the ignition, any time the door is opened then closed, the door will unlock.  So the only way you can lock the truck , is if the key is not in the ignition.  

Just be careful when installing anything like this and keep your window down, just in case you happen to end up having one of these types of systems.  If can help in anyway, just ask and i will do my best to help you out  
Nick and George
1986 1/2  F150 XLT Lariat 4X2  300 Six  - C6 - 3:08 in a 8.8 -  Fully Loaded - 8 Foot Box
Owned since new
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
This post was updated on .
I don't think Viper supports DIY installations so their very vague and incomplete instructions are likely intended to push the buyer to have them installed by a shop.

86 1/2 Brutus wrote
From Nick:  Most of these china deluxe alarm systems have wires that connect to the interior lights and the ignition.  some of them will lock the doors about 30 seconds after the ignition has been turned off.  others will lock the doors after the last door has been closed.  either way, this is just enought time for you to remember your keys were in the truck and have them locked in.  I'm using mine as a convience module.  I got ride of the passive lock function.  But that takes alot of electronic reworking.  Later on i will build an alarm system that arms itself once the doors are locked with the key only.   I am working on a sense module that can tell when the key is in the ignition, if the door is locked with the key in the ignition, any time the door is opened then closed, the door will unlock.  So the only way you can lock the truck , is if the key is not in the ignition.  
I've haven't seen any that work like that (auto lock after ignition OFF) although seems likely to exists but mine is configurable via dipswitches so that it can lock after you turn on the ignition or unlock after you turn it off - this has gotten me a number of times when starting the truck with the door open and then stepping out and shutting the door to monitor something on the engine. So I can definitely imagine the pain of having it autolock after ignition off without the ability to disable that feature.

Curious on the bolded part. Wouldn't the door be unlocked via the normal hardware by opening it? What about using the 'key in ignition' factory circuit in your 86 to prevent them from locking?
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by kramttocs
I like this approach, Scott.  Fewer things to fail.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
It just took me a little while to see the wisdom of your ways
I still don't really get why my module was unable to pull the factory relay in so this may just be a situation where mine is weak and no one else will run into this. For anyone else that does this in the future I would first try the horn output of your module with the trigger terminal on the factory relay to see if it can pull it in fully so that it actually honks vs just grunting a little.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by 86 1/2 Brutus
FWIW, in 1994 Ford started offering an RKE system for the trucks. The system they used is from a Taurus and requires a little re-pinning of the power lock switches. It does not (originally) have a key pad, but the key pad input socket is on the module, and as one friend who owns a truck with the factory RKE system found, the key pad code is on the module so adding a key pad is possible. The other nice feature of the Taurus and truck units, the courtesy lights are also controlled by it so they will do a slow fade to off when all doors are closed and after about 20 min if you leave a door open. Here is the first one I installed on Darth:

I actually pulled a door module from a 1996 Lincoln Town Car and it's key fobs have a trunk release button (not real useful on a truck), but wait, it will send an output signal when activated and I have a nice aftermarket remote start module I removed from a Dodge that can accept a + or - input to start the engine.

On my 1985 Chrysler I had a very nice unit made by Design Tech in Northern VA that was a remote start, lock unlock and alarm system. Unfortunately Design Tech sold out to Directed Electronics who own a number of the aftermarket systems and most of the support vanished along with the quality. The prices went way up after that also. I had put several Design Tech systems on my vehicles and my late wife loved being able to start her Lincoln, later her Grand Caravan from inside the house to let the AC cool in the summer and the heat get started in the winter.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

old55pete
In reply to this post by kramttocs
Another way around the whole "doors locking with the keys still in the switch". I carry a spair door key in my wallet. I had a big wind slam my door closed one time while I was closing a gate. It slamed so hard the the electric locks locked. There I stood in the rain/sleet waiting for a spair key while the car sat there running.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by kramttocs
Our 2011 Flex, you can't lock the doors with the engine running and driver's seat unoccupied, however, if I use my remote start (operates by pressing the lock button on the integrated key head 3 times) I can start it by relocking it using the remote. It is a real nice system made by Fortin, very nice, clear instructions and integrates with the vehicle quite well.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I bought this kit after the local shop quoted me $500 for basic alarm installation. Can't beat a $13 dollar solution for basic features...

I was thinking that I could get the door wiring connectors from a junkyard donor so I wouldn't have to cut into my harness. All I would need are the two pigtails that connect in the kick panel. I'm going to head down to the Pull-a-Part and see what they've got for F-150's, but I'm wondering if those connectors are common on other Ford vehicles so it would be easier to find. Anyone know?
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
I don't know what all years the connectors are present on but here is how I did it (sounds like what you are looking to do):
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p63071.html
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
Yes. Great minds think alike. Just want to make the jumper you're using in the footwell.

Chances are these power door connectors are common, if you know where to look. Anyone know which models Ford used these connectors on?
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

85lebaront2
Administrator
How many and how many pins, male or female? The large wedgelocks are 0.110 dia male and female, pins are male: D1AB-14461-AA, Dorman 85345, AUVECO 14887; Female: D1AB-14488-CA, Dorman 85346, AUVECO 14888.

I end up salvaging the plug assemblies from old harnesses, just be glad you aren't working on a MOPAR, their older stuff is almost impossible to find even from Chrysler.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
FWIW, I found the correct green connectors on an early 80's Lincoln Town Car. Doesn't look like they were specific to trucks. Seems like the left and right side are interchangeable.
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Good to know, Chad.  Thanks!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary,
I tried this and must have done something wrong. Is it possible that I misinterpreted your wiring diagram? I cut the existing circuit on the pink/yellow and pink/green wires (not literally cut, using a jumper) and wired in the orange and white (orange/black and white/black, too) so now the lock and unlock switch MUST pass through the relay in the new control unit to complete the circuit. The passenger side now works on the door switch and the remote for both lock and unlock and the drivers door does nothing using either the switch or the remote. Was I supposed to interrupt the existing circuit like in your original diagram?
Thanks
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Littlebeefy
I must have a bad connection somewhere. My drivers side window and lock does nothing and my drivers side switches do nothing. My passenger side window, lock and switches all work fine.
LittleBeefy aka Chad

“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT
460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56
urban assault vehicle

"Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr
2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top

"Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928
4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior
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