1982 Bronco XLT

Oh there's so many..forget power, dual internal fan and the bearings are far superior. The only real weakness is the brushes/slip rings. If they could last a little bit longer it would be a contender for best ever.

Gary Lewis wrote

The HEI modules need a lot of current and really should have at least a #12 wire run to them, and preferably a #10.  Which means there should be a relay brought in by a key-on signal.

Given that much current there's got to be quite a bit of heat.  So you might want to provide some kind of heat sink for the module.  That's where the DS-module's case could come in handy.  Or mount it on some aluminum or sheet metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-10474610-Ignition-Igniter-Control-Module-Heat-Sink-for-Engine-xz/383397713080?epid=236337376&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594448d4b8:g:ZHwAAOSwrfFeMpI4&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKpYSzz9%2FsG0TJDO4uQ4aUXC99DBuhFIxerNUFZmNFC2Mz2IcaIr5QYlCFJJD0dW8I1LHABvMvgFmpQTEr21be8nouNERchEhb8FvsJ8Hn81TGH0gYQouGhYylGxDzNcC7W07M3h%2FY1kvDWsV46ebS%2FadV8ShbxkYuwW57upIRSSVOonWspQ9VK47iK%2BnhAjaAAoIhuN7DSny4TBve9s4BBgTlrWUGox0fj896N3zCUrphR9kMhbMQJN%2FUxmCxy1%2BnMMRvx50EiXhw5oVThRO%2FIMbbJmkr6jRwyUuCRxgmN7Qr4U%2FXBLorw4wx2QYW3J8vvKD%2BxIEBqNACb6WxbskPEzHW99u%2Fcqrf4JX6M2TAnktVP9k1PdIo7ydqvlPUHZBIeJjq9NLG7uahGKne5OdYLnhKlSbBXdt7Z8%2Fk%2B7HK5f8T666ZtA4jfWjLFTb6Hil1Q8QT%2FPTUSthT%2BTF8UH5gsJo0%2FkMZIs%2FaJmKLKMTLF25gnEuqUPN4J3AW0AxrVJwz4QL5HMDg1ZLfHQl%2BGQNUpLq1On8BAPKdYUqzh62I3PkHI5RrAf1v8JUo8iF%2FcFSmrkUbqODOeEdhCbCPwlvD6F0sygiZ3ScQ%2BRcvaCSa%2B6SU%2BJmwQhKl12CCgaoC0VN4UsFo%2BCZrcNOJdx3iPQ1dpi%2FU%2FUMV73D5zH6zBuUXWL0lV1LQPHDXSAZXiS3W5U5qipfuCq6psd89sdTwciFmomoFWpfe2DlqNfy7m1r9qroZEaWlto9YP3N%2FArKr%2F%2FK6UHh49Kx0jCnJf97TYOThdg%3D%3D&checksum=383397713080fd1acef7452540ea994b04e3a7103365

It's almost like eBay should have tinyurl on by default...

That's cool!  I didn't know there's a purpose-made heat sink for that.  

Thats the one I have around here somewhere..gotta find it.

Got the starter in and its much happier. I'll probably do the alternator whenever I make new battery cables. Next thing is to make this switch work in the dash to roll the back window down and get this transfer case stick to move.

The starter was a PMGR - right?  Glad it worked out for you.

How do you make battery cables?  Crimp?  Solder?  What size?

Yeah it was a PMGR. I think the direct drive was worn out a bit too because it was slow, even by its standard.

I crimp battery cables. Its how we made them at the starter and alternator shop and I got my own crimper after I left. I leave the wire bare and use adhesive heat shrink vs putting stuff inside and normal heat shrink.

Haven't totally made my mind up on cable size. When I went to the pick n pull, there was a diesel truck up there that I was gonna try and get cables from but theres actually a decent amount of cables missing.

Transfer case linkages get all rusted up if they don't get used.
If you have the rubber 'spring' on the sideways deflection I suggest against PB Blaster because they turn to mud.

Was it you that had the lockout switch inside the tailgate busted?
If you're sure the tracks are clear you might try jumpering that safety out.
Could be bad just from sitting.

Anyway, looking good!  

I have to get underneath and see. The previous owner said that the transfer case was bad? But I've shifted it into 4x4 and out a couple times before it got stuck and 4x4 was definitely working

I'm not sure what the back window's deal is. It rolled up when I jumped it. It was down when I bought it. I'm sure its probably the switch and just need to see. I'm assuming I can push it in further and then test for voltage at the back? Its been awhile since I've seen that metal

The safety switch inside the tailgate is so you can't open or close the gate unless the window is down all the way.
But that also means the motor has no power if it 'thinks' the gate is open.

When I researched it, it was the switch not pressing all the way usually? So hopefully I can just fully depress it?

You may well be right.
It's been a while since I had to fix my friend Bill's tailgate.
Was easier for me to jump the wires than get the panel off with the gate closed.

Anyway, Progress is good!  

Crimping is how I do it, and I also use adhesive-lined heat shrink.  Works great.

On the Bronco tailgate, two things:

1. We have a thread on it here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/How-to-open-a-tailgate-on-a-Bronco-that-the-electrical-system-is-not-working-td51705.html

2. We have the factory shop manual section here: Documentation/Body/Bronco Rear Window

Thanks!

Can't remember but pretty sure there's just the metal, no bushing. Maybe I'll see if I can press on the tailgate first to see if it'll go up and down.

What kind of oil pressure switch is this supposed to have? The one that was on it I hooked up and when the key was in run it would climb to H and peg out. Then it would slowly go back down to 0 wether when it was in run or actually running. I was driving and wasn't totally paying attention to it but I looked down and it was at H and then went back down. I took that one off and replaced it with what I thought the Bronco came with(there was some red on it, the engine it came with was red). It does nothing with the key on. As soon as I start it, it climbs as fast as it can all the way pegged. Interesting enough, both engines came out of LTDs. I found that out when I got a water pump for a 82 bronco and it did not fit whatsoever. I then found a number on the power steering bracket and it went to a 80s LTD. I know the other way came out of a LTD because it has the same brackets and I saw a video of it running still in the LTD. Idk if the first engine was carb or not, it came carb. This one had Ford's TBI on it. Or it could be the middle engine that it has from a 91 F150 but the oil pressure senders look the same so I don't think it is from that.

Is this a "real" gauge in the dash or just if there is some kind of pressure its in the middle?

Can you picture the sender/sensor you have?

I think it wasn't until later in the Bricknose era that Ford started 'fooling' oil pressure gauges.
I know my '87 has a gauge that works AND a check engine light that comes on when pressure is under 5 pounds.
By '89 the gauge operated like an idiot light and told you nothing.

But I can't say anything about LTD's, Fairmonts, Granadas, whathaveyou...

Bullnose trucks definitely have actual gauges for water temp, oil pressure and fuel.

From what I can find on RockAuto, the 80s LTDs took the same one. Then when I go to the Bronco, there is this same one listed and then a fat one.

That's a sensor (switch),  not a sender.

You want the one that looks like a tin can.

I'm guessing theres probably an extension since it probably doesn't fit between the oil filter and timing cover?