1981 straight six manual 4x4 project

Makes sense, now. Part way through that I was going to offer the 1356 I have from the huck, but then I read that you have one.

Yes, it is a complex problem. But I think your approach of trying it first is the best. But, you don’t have a ZF for the six?  Might that do the same?

I have a 7.3 diesel ZF close ratio, and a 460 ZF wide ratio that I could re-drill to fit the diesel, but no small block ZF. They do come into the junkyards from time to time, but none were available when I was looking. It is definitely a possibility for the future if I find a good one, but we will see. Right now I'm liking the close ratio gear spread and the start out gear.  If I had the wide ratio ZF I don't think 2nd gear starts would be all that great. There are pro and con to each set up.

Edit: thanks for the offer on the transfer case. My diesel ZF and 1356 were absolutely rode hard and put away wet. They most likely need rebuilt. If I open the transfer case and don't like what I see I might revisit your offer if it's still available. Don't hold it on my account though, as mine may be fine and they are pretty common in the junkyards.

New shocks are in on all four corners. The engine side cover gasket job is done, the vacuum harness is in, and the blower resistor is switched out. I still don't feel a difference between medium-high and full blast but it's good enough. I've got heat and and all the directional flaps function. I don't know about the gap around the defrost duct but I've got decent defrost air so I'm calling it good at least for now. I don't know about this hot water shut off thing, but that will have to wait if I want to do anything with it. I bridged the fuel tank leads with a piece of wire and spade connectors. It's probably ridiculous as I don't ever want to run two tanks if I can help it, I just don't like chopping things and making irreversible changes.



I got most of the dash stuff put back together, ash tray, glove box with plastic liner, and locking latch with chrome wings that matches the door and hood release locks. For anyone switching between old and new style HVAC controllers, note that the illumination lamp connector is different and it will help if you have the one that matches the harness in the truck. I pulled a 1985 clock harness wire at the junkyard and found out that my 1981 plug is different. It looks like I could probably re-pin the truck plug since I got that connector with the harness, or I might just grab a 1981 harness next time. I don't know if the clock ends are the same, but I have both kinds of clocks.

So for the dash all I have left are the vents, the radio wiring (chopped), radio, mounting the manual choke pull and the bezels. I was working on a bracket to place the choke cable though the glow plug lamp hole on my rosewood bezel (it is a diesel bezel). I want to see if I can mount a headlight style knob so it will match the rest of the dash.



David, I got a filter for the late style stock air cleaner that you sent to me and it breathes so much better now! Those little cupcake sized air filter/cleaners are a sick joke.



I found another tool box... no fender bracket and I'm starting to think it really needs it. The radiator support bracket holds it about 3/4" away from the fender which seems about right. If I force it against the fender the lid does not open right. I'm just going to put some spacers on mine, but I'm wondering if the stock bracket supplies a bit of stand-off to prevent this?



So how am I doing on my list... rims are ordered, still waiting to hear from the glass folks (follow up with them tomorrow). Going to go to the MVD in the morning for tags and plates. Alignment will be scheduled when wheels come in. Need to call Cobra tomorrow about the speedometer gear. Tomorrow before work I hope to complete the choke cable bracket and tackle the front lights. The bayonet flanges on the turn signal lights are breaking, the headlight door is breaking in half on one side... so in addition to electrical I will have the excuse to spiff up the front end and put in some spare parts. 🙂

You are making excellent progress!!!  And a toolbox with a latch. Good find!  👍

I do think the bracket stands the box away from the fender a bit. But spacers should do it as well, although that will be fiddly to assemble with all the separate pieces. If so, I may have a solution.

Interesting catch on the HVAC bulb. I was going to work the question of tank switches later by comparing the two controls, and would have missed the bulb.

So it is a done deal. My transfer case is coming out. As discussed in the speedometer gear help thread, the yellow gear really isn't available anywhere. But it looks like the green one should work in conjunction with a 16 tooth driven gear. It is not available either, but I found a transfer case in a 1989 junkyard F250 with a good green gear in it. I could have tried to just get the gear, but it can be difficult to remove the rear yoke without air tools, and this transfer case looks to be very low mileage as it was in a school district plow truck. Mine, on the other hand, has had the snot beat out of it and the speedometer gear hold down bolt hole is stripped. When I bought the donor truck the front driveshaft slip splines had about an inch of axis wobble, so all things considered I decided to spend the $125 and loose the abused transfer case. I pulled it today before work, and will get it swapped out after the holiday.

I think you will be happy. By the way, did you check that the front driveshaft takes the same u-joints?  Sometimes the F250’s got bigger u-joints, and the F350’s got double-cardan joints.

Gary, my Dana 60 monobeam F350 has the double cardan front presumably because of the taller stock height and steeper driveline angle. But I believe the U-joints are the same. The driveshaft that is in my truck now (that replaced the wobbly one) came from a 1981 F350 TTB with a Borg Warner 1345. It was identical to the bad 1982 F150 shaft.

Ok, you have the driveshaft situation scoped out. Good. 👍

Jonathan, I am glad the air cleaner worked for your truck!

Today before work I did a 1 hr transfer case change... okay you got me, I didn't get it all put back together and tested but I did get the old one pulled and the new one mounted. I hope to finish up on Tuesday and have at least some kind of speedometer movement.





The input shafts were slightly different on the two cases, with the new one having a bit of stick-out. It mounted up just fine though.

This may be a really obvious tip, but it may help someone. The last transfer case I installed with it wobbling around on a floor jack. There was a fair amount of cursing involved. When I removed it today I noticed after it came off the alignment dowel it pointed straight down and was 2" off the ground. So for the new one I stood it on its long and and walked it on a 2x6 block. The input shaft was right in line with the transmission output shaft. I wiggled it on, rotated it until I felt the alignment dowel click in, and done! Placed in less than 30 seconds without a jack and no cursing!

Excellent tip!  In my case I'm installing them on the lift and I do a bear-hug of the t-case and then set it on the output shaft of the tranny.  But, being down on the floor/driveway would make it much harder, so that is an excellent tip.  

Will you be driving the truck to work after you get the t-case bolted in?

Almost Gary, I am really very close now. Mostly I am just waiting on a call from the glass place (they were booked through the holiday) and for my rims to come in from backorder. I am hoping Wednesday or Thursday for a first highway test.

One thing I've added to my list is trailer wiring and brake controller.... and travel trailer maintenance.

Our pet sitter fell through, so we are adjusting our travel plans and accommodations. It will be slow going, but this set up will beat the 240 six hands down.

Yes, things always pop up that should have been on the list.  And now you are taking the trailer.  Cool!

What brake controller are you going with?

It's just an old Kelsey Hayes unit. I've not run the hydraulic system in my trucks as it causes lock up with my flat bed when empty. I know there are better smarter controllers out there, but this is how I am used to driving trailers, with 100% manual control of the electric brakes. It can be a little busy, but I prefer to reserve the trailer brakes for control and emergency stopping. On a downhill run those 1960 drum brakes give you 3-4 good pumps and they are done. You don't want to let it get going very fast, and you better have good vehicle brakes. Someday maybe I can upgrade the trailer axles to ones with better brakes, but until then I won't let a controller decide when to apply those 3-4 good pumps that I get out of them.

Not that you want to do it now, but it cost me something like $150 an axle to put electric brakes on my boat trailer.  With that and the integrated controller on the 2015 truck, it was easy.

That is more affordable than I thought. Do you know if one can run electric brakes on both axles? I do not have the time to do anything with mine this time, but the streamline has brakes only on one axle and they fade like crazy on down grades. They are okay if you are really careful, but you could get in a lot of trouble fast if you're not 😬

Yes, absolutely run brakes on both axles.  My boat trailer came with hydraulic surge brakes on the front axle.  But, I wanted the maximum braking I could get so put electric brakes on both axles.

They came as bolt-on hubs with new bearings, brakes, drums, etc.  Easy fix.

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, absolutely run brakes on both axles.  My boat trailer came with hydraulic surge brakes on the front axle.  But, I wanted the maximum braking I could get so put electric brakes on both axles.

They came as bolt-on hubs with new bearings, brakes, drums, etc.  Easy fix.

I will definitely have to look into that. I would love to upgrade those 💩 brakes! The Streamline is getting refurbished after the diesel (or concurrently as time allows), but better brakes (and lights) would be a good start.

CONTENTS DELETED

Johns3524 wrote

Thanks for the install tip..I need to swap mine out, and I think this method will help me do the job myself in a month or so..

JS

You're welcome... your mileage may vary depending on your transfer case model, suspension and tires but the principal is the same. If you let it point straight down during removal you can measure exactly how much block you need between the case tip and the ground to line up the shafts. You can muscle a little difference, but I cannot myself dead lift a 1345 while under the truck to place it. Having suffered my share of back problems I have learned to avoid such "macho" maneuvers!