WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Dyn Blin]

It's getting about time to write up a thread on my IDI... 😎

Seatbelts!

Too shiny to risk a blemish.

[FuzzFace2]

Seatbelts!

Too shiny to risk a blemish.

Reading over my last post I see I did not get any pictures of the front panel welded up, If I can remember the next time I am out there working I will get one.

Had the day off from work so I put a little time in on the bed.....truck bed that is.

I trimmed the sides with a sawzall for the large parts then used a grinder to get it trimmed back to my marks. May still need a little more once I get the sides bolted on.

Then I stood it up on end so I could clean the bottom. Used a scraper, wire brush and vacuum till I got to the bottom and thought there had to be a better way to clean with out standing on your head. That plan was to put in back on my horses upside down. Finished cleaning it up, hit is with some rags and high psi air then sprayed it down with oxy-gone to kill the rust.

It has to sit and work in and dry before I can paint it so next time I haveno work it will throw paint on the bottom.

With that drying it was time to work on the bed side lips that are missing.

Made 2 cardboard patterns of the lips that need replacing. I say 2 because I can turn them around to use for the other side panel, 1 for the front lip other for the rear lip.

Picture of the front lip I am working on.

I have flat stock I am using fro the lips and for the flat panel below I plan to use sheet metal and butt weld it to the panel and to the flat stock.

I think that area rusted because you had 2 lips and water/dirt got in between and the rest is history.

So welding it the way I plan should stop that. Also that area is behind the fenders so does not need to be factory right.

Dave ----

 

[Dyn Blin]

I managed to install the passenger side anti-rattle window trim and door surrounds. It only took me about 30 minutes this round after the trial run on the driver's side last week.

It's a little thing, but makes the ride that much quieter.

Changed the oil, too and posted a question for the gang.

[Gary Lewis]

I managed to install the passenger side anti-rattle window trim and door surrounds. It only took me about 30 minutes this round after the trial run on the driver's side last week.

It's a little thing, but makes the ride that much quieter.

Changed the oil, too and posted a question for the gang.

Dave - Wow! That is a LOT of work. But, you are really going to have a great truck when you are done!

Mark - Glad it went so well. I'll be things are much quieter now.

[Gary Lewis]

Dave - Wow! That is a LOT of work. But, you are really going to have a great truck when you are done!

Mark - Glad it went so well. I'll be things are much quieter now.

I didn't do enough to any of my trucks today to warrant posting in their threads. However, I did get a little bit done.

On Dad's truck I pressed out the u-joints from the front drive shafts, which was a minor challenge as those were the original ones and had been in there for 37 years. In order to ensure I didn't bend the yoke I used the tool I made that puts the pressure on the cross-shaft of the u-joint rather than on the cup on the top. That means all the force is transferred to the u-joint and then down into the bottom cup, so no force is put on the top cup or arm of the yoke. Press one cup out, turn it over and press the other cup out, and you are done. (Forgetting that it may take half an hour to get the first snap ring off before you can press anything. )

Then I fired up the blast cabinet as I'm doing some powder coating for a friend. But, there was this aluminum casting laying there that was begging to be cleaned.

Here are a couple of "before" shots":

And then a couple of "after" shots:

 

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't do enough to any of my trucks today to warrant posting in their threads. However, I did get a little bit done.

On Dad's truck I pressed out the u-joints from the front drive shafts, which was a minor challenge as those were the original ones and had been in there for 37 years. In order to ensure I didn't bend the yoke I used the tool I made that puts the pressure on the cross-shaft of the u-joint rather than on the cup on the top. That means all the force is transferred to the u-joint and then down into the bottom cup, so no force is put on the top cup or arm of the yoke. Press one cup out, turn it over and press the other cup out, and you are done. (Forgetting that it may take half an hour to get the first snap ring off before you can press anything. )

Then I fired up the blast cabinet as I'm doing some powder coating for a friend. But, there was this aluminum casting laying there that was begging to be cleaned.

Here are a couple of "before" shots":

And then a couple of "after" shots:

Not much to tell, but there have been several posts in the Fog Lamp Bezel thread, and there are more to come as I got the 2nd Shapeways printout in today.

And, I got my new 1996 EVTM in today. See the newest review on that book on Amazon, below. However, Bishko did have one used copy of the real EVTM, or so they say, and it is supposed to be on its way to me. And, Bill, your source didn't have any.

I got the very nice email below from the CEO of Hordes Of Hobbies yesterday. And then today I got the manual I'd ordered from another source - at twice the price I paid Hordes Of Hobbies. Guess what - it is another copy of the same thing I'd gotten before. It has every other page upside down and at least two pages missing. Arrgh!

I called the other supplier and they called Bishko, who gave all sorts of excuses why it has to hinge on the top and every other page is upside down. In short, I don't know that Bishko has the ability to print the manual correctly, and certainly doesn't appear to have any intention of doing so. Given that, I wouldn't buy a "new" 1996 EVTM in the next several years as I suspect they will just be the bogus copies that Bishko has already tried to foist off on me via two different suppliers. Instead, if you need one then I'd look for a used one.

Gary,

Thank you for taking the time to return this manual to us. I've personally inspected this manual from front to back, and I agree this a product that should never have bene listed on the Amazon marketplace. I've also reviewed the information on the listing, and the title certainly does not make it clear that this is a reproduction manual either, which separately from the quality of the manual itself, can also cause some confusion or alarm. I could go into all of the problems I diagnosed with this print, but I'm pretty sure I'd just be repeating everything you've already stated, adding one note regarding the lack of binder holes as well. I deeply apologize for any inconvenience or disappointment this purchase may have brought you; we pride ourselves on offering great products and good prices, but in this circumstance we have fallen short. Thank you for communicating your disappointment with this product, as looking into this product has brought to light a few more problem products we're now working through resolving with Bishko Automotive Literature. We appreciate your patience while we looked into this, and hope maybe some day you'll give us another chance. Thank you much for the opportunity to serve you, and I hope you have a great week! Please do let us know if you have any other questions, concerns or comments.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not much to tell, but there have been several posts in the Fog Lamp Bezel thread, and there are more to come as I got the 2nd Shapeways printout in today.

And, I got my new 1996 EVTM in today. See the newest review on that book on Amazon, below. However, Bishko did have one used copy of the real EVTM, or so they say, and it is supposed to be on its way to me. And, Bill, your source didn't have any.

I got the very nice email below from the CEO of Hordes Of Hobbies yesterday. And then today I got the manual I'd ordered from another source - at twice the price I paid Hordes Of Hobbies. Guess what - it is another copy of the same thing I'd gotten before. It has every other page upside down and at least two pages missing. Arrgh!

I called the other supplier and they called Bishko, who gave all sorts of excuses why it has to hinge on the top and every other page is upside down. In short, I don't know that Bishko has the ability to print the manual correctly, and certainly doesn't appear to have any intention of doing so. Given that, I wouldn't buy a "new" 1996 EVTM in the next several years as I suspect they will just be the bogus copies that Bishko has already tried to foist off on me via two different suppliers. Instead, if you need one then I'd look for a used one.

Gary,

Thank you for taking the time to return this manual to us. I've personally inspected this manual from front to back, and I agree this a product that should never have bene listed on the Amazon marketplace. I've also reviewed the information on the listing, and the title certainly does not make it clear that this is a reproduction manual either, which separately from the quality of the manual itself, can also cause some confusion or alarm. I could go into all of the problems I diagnosed with this print, but I'm pretty sure I'd just be repeating everything you've already stated, adding one note regarding the lack of binder holes as well. I deeply apologize for any inconvenience or disappointment this purchase may have brought you; we pride ourselves on offering great products and good prices, but in this circumstance we have fallen short. Thank you for communicating your disappointment with this product, as looking into this product has brought to light a few more problem products we're now working through resolving with Bishko Automotive Literature. We appreciate your patience while we looked into this, and hope maybe some day you'll give us another chance. Thank you much for the opportunity to serve you, and I hope you have a great week! Please do let us know if you have any other questions, concerns or comments.

Not much of anything to *my* truck lately, but I did come down to PA and sorted a few things on my nieces truck.

Mounted a pair of LED fog lights and got the relay working. Had to redo my harness because I didn't take polarity into account, and had just run it the way it was.

Put new spring shackles in the rear.

And bought some new Hanook M&S radials.

Replaced the muffler and tailpipe.

I should have paid more attention to the converter flange! I guess there's always another day....

Chased a missing ground in the dash.

But the sun has set and the wind has been blowing through me so I packed it in.

[Gary Lewis]

Not much of anything to *my* truck lately, but I did come down to PA and sorted a few things on my nieces truck.

Mounted a pair of LED fog lights and got the relay working. Had to redo my harness because I didn't take polarity into account, and had just run it the way it was.

Put new spring shackles in the rear.

And bought some new Hanook M&S radials.

Replaced the muffler and tailpipe.

I should have paid more attention to the converter flange! I guess there's always another day....

Chased a missing ground in the dash.

But the sun has set and the wind has been blowing through me so I packed it in.

Jim - What truck does your niece have?

And, what about the converter flange? I ask because Huck's exhaust, which will go on Big Blue, was cut neatly right behind the wye where the O2 sensor goes on a batch-fire setup. My intent is to put flanges there so I can bolt it together, and probably then put a Magnaflow 2-in/2-out in place of the glasspacks.

Bill showed the flanges he used for that purpose, but they looked huge. Are there smaller flanges?

[85lebaront2]

Jim - What truck does your niece have?

And, what about the converter flange? I ask because Huck's exhaust, which will go on Big Blue, was cut neatly right behind the wye where the O2 sensor goes on a batch-fire setup. My intent is to put flanges there so I can bolt it together, and probably then put a Magnaflow 2-in/2-out in place of the glasspacks.

Bill showed the flanges he used for that purpose, but they looked huge. Are there smaller flanges?

Gary, those flanges are; front is the end of the EFI exhaust pipe pair, rear is cut off of a dead catalytic converter (one that had previously been gutted). Auto Muffler King in Newport News VA used that to make the needed connection to factory 1986 460 system.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - What truck does your niece have?

And, what about the converter flange? I ask because Huck's exhaust, which will go on Big Blue, was cut neatly right behind the wye where the O2 sensor goes on a batch-fire setup. My intent is to put flanges there so I can bolt it together, and probably then put a Magnaflow 2-in/2-out in place of the glasspacks.

Bill showed the flanges he used for that purpose, but they looked huge. Are there smaller flanges?

Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport.

There are all kind of flanges available from companies like Walker, Nickeson, and others.

I will just cut the flange off the old muffler because it's in decent shape.

I ended up making one for my truck last year because I wanted to keep the stock carbed configuration.

Yeah, the EFI flange is massive.

If you want that flange you might see if the mid-pipe for extended wheelbase comes with a single (dual) flange.

If you want dual Magnaflow's you can choose a gasket, then get 4 flanges. Put everything up in place and tack them. Take it down and weld on the bench.