Rembrant

Gary, I know you know the part, I'm just not describing it clearly enough. See item #7 below. It is the lower mount for the forward shock on a quad shock front end. I snapped off just the threaded portion outside of where the shock sits. I didn't realize it until I looked it up on LMC that the whole stud itself is a separate part from the bracket. I assumed it was welded on there. I didn't look at mine that closely. If it IS actually removeable from the bracket, then it should be easy enough to fix with a bolt and washers or I'll just have a new part made at a machine shop. I'll have to examine it more closely.

A little more progress this weekend. I finally got the front ends of the frame cleaned up. I wanted to get this taken care of before I put the front clip back on. Next weekend I'll change out the heater core and do a little more work on the firewall, etc before bolting the front clip back on the frame. Pulled both quad shock towers and then needle scaled, wire cup wheeled, rust converted, painted black, rustproofed, and reinstalled. It was a lot of work, but I sure am glad this part is done. Ugh. And, I only had one casualty really...I snapped the stud off on one of the front forward lower shock mounts. Not sure how I'm going to fix that yet...maybe with a bolt, welded in place. That's lower priority at the moment. I cut the shocks off and threw them out for scrap. I'm getting darn good and efficient at removing rivets now too...lol. I think the rivet removal count on this truck is around 45 now, and I still have more to go. I'm probably over 50 if I include the crossmember bracket I removed at the junkyard for this truck. I have about another 20 to go, but they're not for a little while yet, so I can have a rest. It's still a junk heap, but its got a cleaner front frame after this weekend.

Dave, Do you have any pics of the T18 shifter? Curious what it looks like in the cab. Did you remove that trans yet? I might try to mock up a t18 shifter but i can’t seem to find any pictures of what it looks like.

Haha...we have all kinds of stupid sayings, and I have no idea where they come from...lol.

Rustproofing sprays are really common here, and I know they're at least somewhat common in the northern states...at least the ones east of the Great Lakes. I have our daily vehicles done every fall by a local shop. It's messy, but it sure does work. I didn't put anything on my 1984 Flareside as it pretty much lives indoors and is only outside on sunny days. The 1980 Flareside I'm working on now will get sprayed...it will likely be living outside in the elements, and the whole point of this truck is to be able to drive it in the rain, and use it like a truck. The Fluid Film I just purchased is mainly for the frame/chassis/axles, etc. I will be coating everything with it.

Alright Connecticut...Jim, Ron??>.. Copied from ad for those without FB: "Up for sale i have this beautiful truck, 86 f350 6.9 idi diesel 4 speed manual, runs and drives believe it or not and is currently registered and insured. Roof turbo and fuel screw turned all the way up, litterally everything you don’t need to drive it is broken, 2 of the tires only hold air for a week or so. don’t miss out of your dream build, 800 obo no I don’t want scrap value I’ll go hit more things with it for that. had my fun with it for over a year and I want it out of my driveway." https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2750012038548029

Not sure what you mean exactly by the scraped clean part. That looks normal to me. Are you comparing to the new replacement balljoint? I know the Moog joints I installed in mine had a splined OD, I assume for better grip in the knuckle.

How about something like this? https://www.shipito.com/en/buy-from-US-ship-to-Netherlands https://www.parcelmonkey.com/destinations/europe/netherlands https://www.myus.com/where-we-ship/netherlands/ I know in Canada a lot of people use a service called Kinek, which gives you a USA shipping address to ship to, and then they handle the transfer into Canada. I sometimes use a similar service, but not very often.

Lookin' good!

Greetings W.J. I am in a similar situation living in Canada. Shipping costs from the US are also very expensive for me. Although LMC will ship to Canada, I have found that many vendors in the US refuse to ship internationally, at any cost. There are a couple reasons for this, but as outsiders there's not much that we can do about it. Shipping costs within the US are very inexpensive compared to shipping just outside the US border. Adding a trip across the Atlantic just makes it worse. A big deal right now is that due to Covid-19, thousands of flights have been cancelled, international shipping has become much more expensive. Through my work, we buy a lot of equipment from Europe and Asia, and the freight costs that we are quoted are sometimes only good for 24 hrs, where prior to Covid they were good for 30 days. I can't offer much help, but my suggestion would be to locate a Dutch broker that can receive items in the USA for you, and then transport to Europe. In Canada we have a lot of these companies...but I don't use them very often unless there is a savings in the international shipping. What items are you trying to order exactly? Are they large/over-sized?

Don’t think so Scott. The 1995 F150 I just disassembled for the chassis was a rear tank only truck, and it has a crossmember that my 1984 (side tank only) does not have. Both are swb trucks, but my ‘84 does not have the crossmember for a rear tank. It has a bolted in crossmember for the spare tire to hit but it is completely different.

Jonathan, What's the news 2 months later??...all systems still check OK? I need to order a 300 carb soon, and I've been saving yours in My Ebay for just that day, but I recently noticed that it says "Does Not Ship to Canada". Bugger. Anyway... A guy on FB linked to a carb he bought on Amazon (see below) and he said it works great. He said he bolts it on and the engine started right up and only needed a couple light adjustments. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B084YWG1K2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&fbclid=IwAR3PVQfAp5UkMnpTQtSPyxSa7DtnN3nNXl-eSQ6wwGObF743MneRwj0c9M8 I wonder if the Amazon one is the same or similar? Any comments good or bad from the 300i6 crowd? Do you have a recommendation for carb gaskets/kits?

I have the later style boots on my 1984 doors and they are hard as rocks and cracked/broken. I don’t know if any aftermarket replacements but I’d anybody finds them let me know. Hey, whatever happened to Keith Dickson? He was going to be looking into new part suggestions wasn’t he?

I took my driveshaft to a driveline shop earlier this year to have the balance checked. Not only did they find it out of balance they said it was also bent. No idea how that happened...it looked fine. Anyway they straightened it and rebalanced and it make a big difference in reducing my driveline vibration.

I LOVE this scene in the original movie... "Did you bring a horse for me?" "Haha, looks like we're shy one horse" Charles Bronson shakes his head and says "You brought two too many". Nothing compares to those old movies.

I always thought it was 28 spline for cars, and 31 for the trucks...at least with the 8.8's it is this way.

If I'm understanding Gary's part number listings correctly, this should be the bushing? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1984-1991-FORD-F150-F250-BRONCO-BORG-WARNER-TRANSFER-CASE-REAR-BUSHING-NEW/143005385820?epid=1911202815&hash=item214bc9045c:g:2oYAAOSwTVlb44vr Should be available aftermarket though. My slip yoke is a little looser than I'd like it to be. I'm not sure what is normal though...

Sold by the time I got here;).

I remember watching this guy's video before I went to the junkyard to pull the 1996 sliding rear window for my '84. I've since removed a couple more. Installation is easy too, especially with two people.

Ha! This thing is cool. I didn't even know you could get a camper to fit a Bronco?? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3628160357216208

The truck in question is a 1980, and if I have my way I will find an early black bezel for it, which will have the old style radio with two knobs. Going to look for a radio in the coming weeks. A friend of mine has a bunch of these trunks in his junkyard.

I know, right? That's why I want to do it now while there are no hood or fenders on this truck...lol. I saw somebody ask on FB the other day how long it took to change, and several people replied and said it was "easy peazy" and only a 10-20 minute job. On a factory AC equipped truck maybe, but not on a non-AC truck.

I guess it depends on what you mean by "upgraded" radio? To be honest, I don't really listen to the radio much anymore. I've been listening to Podcasts for years now (From my iPhone, via Bluetooth). However, I guess I would like the option of using the radio from time to time. If I go looking for a used radio, what is the best one to upgrade? Just curious.

Great looking undercoating kit there Scott. I bought a gallon of the black Fluid Film, but I currently don't have a spray gun...need to order a new one sometime. I just had my daily driver done by a shop, but I will use the black later on to touch up the visible areas of the frame.

Ha! I actually just ordered a high output Heater Core for the old 1980 today. I figure I might as well remove the heater box. get it all cleaned out and install a new core while the front fenders are still off. It's a bit of a pain changing that core on a Non-AC truck.