Rembrant

I have old parts and pieces and pictures kickin' around my garage as well. My old 1980 F100 Custom Flareside pictured below in 1994. I bought that truck in 1992 when I was 20 or so and I abused it terribly...lol. I sure wish that I had taken more pictures of it back then, but old film cameras weren't in our pockets every day like mobile phones are now. I sure did love that truck.

Hey nlongo33, I'd be interested in some items from this Flareside. Flareside tail lights with wiring and the grommets where they go through the stake pockets Tail light mounting brackets. The 1980 instrument and radio bezels if they are black weave and not damaged. Tailgate hinges and bolts if they are usable Tailgate chains

Teflon tape for threaded fittings. Have a look at Dorman part number 47993...that might do the trick too, and they're available anywhere at any auto parts shop. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-47993

Like this: https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/421635 One of these in the top, although there are much cheaper versions I'm sure. This is what I have in my manifold (no sensors in non feedback carb trucks like mine). https://www.cjponyparts.com/edelbrock-heater-hose-end-fitting-90-degree-with-1-2-npt-and-5-8-barb-black-anodized/p/EDL8178/?gclid=CjwKCAiA8Jf-BRB-EiwAWDtEGmASBMRUfPe9VPb6SQ9MlFIt3Ozx__3lvreb_Tb2pA0fx-Y9gsP_9xoCky8QAvD_BwE And a 3/8" x 1/2" bushing in the side of the tee for the sensor. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-MIP-x-3-8-in-FIP-Brass-Bushing-Fitting-802289/207176817 That's all I was just thinking if a fella had to build that fitting with hardware store parts.

Interesting eh? I've never heard of this part. Some info about them on the Mustang boards (also a 1985). http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?182682-Hot-Idle-Compensator-Valve

Chris, If you can't find a suitable replacement, you can probably do it with regular NPT pipe fittings. You'd need what is called a "Street Tee" in 1/2" NPT, plus an elbow 1/2" NPT male by 5/8" hose barb, and likely a bushing for whatever thread size that sensor is...I assume 1/4 or 3/8" NPT.

Ever see one of those big Husky injection molding machines in action? Even though the auto assembly plant lines ran on just in time production, lots of the vendors would have been making extra inventory. Lots of it was probably scrapped if it wasn't sent to the plants. Anyway, point is, the changeover in parts/assembly was a bit of a moving target, with overlap on the model year changes.

Haha, oh I agree 100% Jim, but Steve83 (a former member on here) used to argue that there was no such thing as leftover parts in just-in-time manufacturing. His argument to your point above would be that extra wire was never purchased in the first place, so therefore there could never be any leftover. He was adamant that NOS parts ONLY came from dealer inventories, and never as extras from a warehouse or production facility, or outside supplier. Of course we know that is not true. Companies like DC and LMC have shown all kinds of different items that were clearly leftovers from production runs.

Steve was always adamant that there was no such thing as using up leftover parts! If you thought that then you didn’t understand just in time production!

Boy you guys are lucky Steve83 isn't here!!...lol.

I was today years old when I learned this interesting fact. Thank you sir!

That certainly makes more sense. I did see somewhere before the M=December, but how do the months correlate with the letters?...since I got it wrong.

Ya, I think that the '83 cabs had the hole for the mechanical linkage and were stamped for the hydraulic clutch master.

That's a 1980 only bezel...notice the placement of the signal arrows? The 1981-1986 bezels had the turn indicator arrows in different locations. The double 4x4 indicators is interesting though. My 1980 has nothing in the outer left and right boxes...they are just black blanks.

Ya, my 1984 w/302 had factory hydraulic clutch.

Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure the 1983 cabs all had the imprint of where the clutch master cylinder goes, even if the truck originally came with an auto trans. Not that it means much, but it sure makes locating the hole easy. I have to install a clutch master in my 1980, and there's no markings for it unfortunately.

Passenger side on my '84 F150 Gary...screwed directly to the cab as there is no interior trim in my truck.

Haha, the straps are how I move it every weekend. I pull it out away from the wall on Saturday morning and then push it back on Sunday afternoon. I had to put some longer straps on today now that the fenders are on it.

I have used CO2 with my MIG and it works better than flux wire but not a clean as mix Argon at least for sheet metal MIG welding. Cory looking good. For me when I started putting body panels back on the truck it was a big change that I got something done. Dave ---- Ya Dave, it's coming along, bit by bit. It's got some pretty nasty positive camber at the moment. I'm hoping that it settles down more with the rest of the front end parts installed (and fluids filled). I wonder what a carbed 300 weighs compared to a fully dressed 5.0L EFI with smog pump, etc. I mean the hood, core support and front bumper aren't going to add all that much weight compared to how it sits now...neither will the oil and coolant, but I guess it all adds up.

Yes and yes. I don't mind cutting the floor in this truck (I already did it today). Not much sense in me trying to keep this truck original...with the 1995 chassis and all, I'll have to disclose that anyway, and I don't really have any plans for it to be a show winner. This thing is just a toy to keep me busy on the weekends. Since I had all of the original 1995 4x4 shifter and bezel, etc it was easy to do. If I had needed to buy a shifter, etc then I may have swapped it (or tried to). Now that I think of it, I don't know if a Bullnose shifter would work. I did install the higher tunnel cover for the M5OD. I don't know if I could incorporate a 4x4 shifter into that. Anyway, the floor is already cut and the bezel installed, and it shifts fine so that is good.

That would be the 9L21. The 9 indicates 1979, the L indicates December, and the 21 is the 21st day of the month. What is the build date on your 1980?

Assembly plant code I think. I don't think it's a useful number for your purposes. Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong.

You mean the core support brackets on the frame? They ALWAYS rust out...sometimes to the point where the mount falls right through the bracket. I'm not sure what you could do with them tbh. There is something about them that sucks the salt in between the rubber and the steel, and then they just sit there and rust where you can't see it. I forgot to tell you guys. I have a little Albee gas cylinder for my welder. They're just little tanks...2ft tall, I think about 2.5 gal capacity. I bought the tank several years ago, so that I didn't have to deal with a tank contract. Anyway, I finally ran out a few weeks ago and I took it in to exchange it. The tank was blue, and the guy gave me a green tank. I didn't argue with the guy, but stated that I thought I should have a blue tank. He said that the green was the same stuff. A week or so later, I go to weld my frame horns on, and the welder is just working like shit. Zapping and splattering, I just could not get a nice steady arc at all. Turns out it was that stupid green tank. I called Air Liquide (main supplier around here) and they said the green tanks are straight Argon for welding aluminum, and the blue tanks are Argon mix (w/CO2) for Mig welding steel. The guy said "Oh you would have had a helluva time trying to weld with that green tank". LOL. Needless to say, I exchanged it. Haven't tried again since, but I'm sure its fine now.

Starting to actually look like a truck again... Installed the PMGR starter and exhaust downpipe this morning before installing the fenders and liners. I loosely organized the wiring harness since it has been pretty much laying in a big lump on the engine. Starting to look like something again. It's still a rusty pile, but at least I'm not bored! Tomorrow I have to cut the hole in the floor for the 4x4 shifter, and install the shifter and bezel, etc. Then finish tightening down the cab mount bolts. I might deal with some of the engine bay wiring, but I need to also get the core support ready to install, and it needs a little bit of work first. Time to make a list...lol.

I can't remember for sure, but I think they are polarity sensitive. The blue LED's in my cluster are definitely polarity sensitive....I remember having to move them around.