Rembrant

I tried. He has his Ebay page set up so that you cannot contact him (or her). The instrument bezel decals look correct, but the center bezel ones I don't know. The 1985-1986 ones wouldn't be easy with the contours around the radio opening.

Actually, the bezel pattern they have shown won't even fit the 1980-1984 radio bezel... I'm lost...lol.

The radios. The decal kit is for a center bezel for the old style radio with knobs. Wouldn't fit 1985-1986. Unless I'm missing something...they wouldn't fit the 1986 bezel I have here. I have one for an '83 but I'd have to dig it out (with a ladder...lol).

Ahhh crap... It just occurred to me that while this kit is advertised as fitting 1980-1986, if you look at the center bezel decal patterns, it technically only fits 1980-1984, presumably Rosewood or XLS?...I can't image trying to apply these decals over a weave pattern. Dang it. Maybe I'll have to send this guy my 1986 center bezel...

Maybe so, but the hood is pretty easy to remove. I'd take it off if it were me. Even by yourself, just stack up some towels under each corner so that it doesn't scratch the paint, and then you can lift it off and set it on or in the bed.

I don't know on the earlier windows as mine came out of a 1996. Mine had two thin slivers of rubber seals, and two brush like seals. I cleaned them used a toothbrush on the brush like seals, and they came out like brand new. They are about a foot long on each side, so if you only have one it is just for one side. There are also horizontal rubber seals top and bottom. They are attached to the aluminum channels. I don't know if they can even be replaced. You could try wiping them down with the rubber restorer product.

Oh that's a NICE Bronco...but $$$

This is exactly how I removed and reinstalled my engine, all alone.

Well, what I originally wanted to do was to make the 1986 Burlwood bezel that I have look like a black weave 1980 bezel. Only thing close would be Carbon Fiber, and it might not look at home...

Gary, Here is the actual Ebay sale where there is a drop-down menu for the pattern you want: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rdash-Dash-Kit-Ford-F-250-1980-1986-Auto-Interior-Decal-Trim-/312222112171?var=&vxp=mtr&hash=item8e3aebb4fe Lots and lots of choices...

I was wondering that. Did anybody on here ever send him a set of bezels? I have a nice set of 1986 Burlwood bezels I'd cover up. I wonder how the silver brushed aluminum would look?

Oh, you can even order them in RUST!...lol. They would look right at home in the old 1980.

Interesting...Bulnose bezel decal kits...has anybody seen these or tried them??? "Honey Burlwood" below: https://www.ebay.com/itm/352439074193?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true Pattern of the decals in the kit: Here are their other offerings in their Ebay store...note the last one on the right, they have all kinds of options... http://www.ebaystores.com/rvinylinc//_i.html?_nkw=ford+1980-1986 I think I know what I'm going to do with my spare set of faded 1986 Burlwood bezels...

I know these plain trucks are not always the crowd favorites, but this old girl seems to be in pretty nice condition. The interior is very nice, and identical to my own 1984 right down to the seat, trim, flooring, etc. They're asking big bucks though. Looks like Gateway has it on consignment. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164579502403 Full size pictures here: https://vmp.ebay.com/ebay/viewAllPhotos.aspx?smid=36944861

They are really easy to disassemble, at least the later ones are anyway. I have a factory sliding rear window out of a 1996, and I disassembled it down to every single piece. This way I was able to deep clean all of the tracks and channels, as well as the felts and rubbers. I sanded and repainted the two upper and lower aluminum channels (aluminum color) and I repainted the glass frames with satin black. This was a 24 year old SRW i grabbed at the junkyard for $35 and I was able to make it look and work like brand new.

I can't speak to any issues specifically with the 351w, but I have read of some issues with the 302, and I always attribute that to guys installing Mustang headers on trucks. Mustang headers are cheap and plentiful, but they run closer to the starter on the trucks than they do on the cars with the smaller flywheels. Rick may know more about that topic. I went with truck specific shorty headers...BBK's in chrome, and I'm quite happy with them. I went this route for simplicity sakes, and while I did run full dual exhaust, I was able run them in the location of the stock single exhaust. I know you want long tubes, I'm just throwing this out there as a Plan-B for you;). PS: One small bit of advice I can give is to buy good gaskets and bolts (if required). Two high performance engine building shops recommended Remflex gaskets to me, and so far they have been great. No leaks whatsoever. I also went with longer ARP header bolts as the ones that came with my BBK's were too short. Whatever HP I may have sacrificed in not going with longtubes I am OK with as my truck is just a cruiser/driver, and I was going more for "pretty" than for "power".

I was doing the exact same thing! Even the nice mint expensive trucks for sale on Ebay will have a beautiful engine bay and all you can see is that rusty master cylinder lol. It's a pretty straight forward installation. There are really only two issues: 1. Is that the front and rear brake ports are reversed from the Bullnose master cylinder. I was running all new brake lines at the time, so it was a non-issue for me. However, I did see a guy on Facebook a month or two ago do the swap with a used master, and all he did was grab the two brake lines and bend them around each other to fit the new master. 2. The later master cylinder requires a residual pressure valve for the rear brakes, and it is NOT included with the purchase of a new master cylinder. They are readily available at the junkyard though, so I grabbed a couple of them...one to install, and another for a spare. I'm pointing at it in the picture below: It bolts right up to the Bullnose brake booster no problem. I did have to adjust the booster pushrod a little bit, but I think that's a given anyway. I did away with the prop valve on the frame...the later trucks didn't have them anyway. I took the wires that used to connect to it and connected them to the float switch on the later master, so my low-brake-fluid warning light in the dash still works. If you go to the junkyard to get a residual pressure valve (or the whole master itself) also grab the plug and wiring for the float switch. A former member on here put me on to this and I'm glad he did as I was re-doing the whole braking system anyway. Otherwise, I think Scott's powder coating method noted above is also an great idea.

Ha! Thanks Jim. There is some luck, yes. Do you know how difficult it is to find decent used 15" anything these days? How long has it been now since 15" wheels were the standard? 20+ years, I guess. On top of me searching for this stuff, there are many other guys searching for the same stuff so when it does pop up for sale it disappears fast. The only reason I was even able to buy the tires was that the guy posted them for sale early in the morning around 5am, and I saw the ad 20-30 minutes later and told him I'd take them without even seeing them...lol. Anyway,...I'm having some fun with this stuff. I'm trying to assemble this truck on a budget, which takes a lot of used parts and my free labor...lol. I'll probably sell it in the end, depending on what I could get for it, but what I'd really like is a nice southern truck to work on. Hoping for some decent progress on this truck over the X-mas holidays. Our work shuts down on Christmas eve and doesn't open back up until January 5th, so I'll have a good stretch of days with the workshop to myself.

Hi Matt, I can't offer all that much help, but one I've done that I'm very happy with is install one of the later F150 aluminum master cylinders. The main reason I did this was because I was sick of looking at the old rusty cast iron master cylinder. Others have had issues with the covers leaking, but that wasn't a particular problem of mine. The braking performance is the same as the old Bullnose master cylinder. No change there. The later master cylinder has a fluid level float, so I made use of this since I also removed my prop valve at the same time. I re-routed the wires to the float switch so the Brake warning light in my dash will still work if the fluid gets low for any reason. It's a nice little upgrade imho. I ordered one for a 1991 fyi. They do fit the Bullnose brake booster just fine, but the front and rear brake ports are reversed from the Bullnose master cylinder.

Thanks Gary, I really wanted this particular set-up, with 31's on 15x10's. I would have stuck them on the truck tonight but I need to clean them first.

Boy do I have a story about shipping to Canada...lol. I inquired about some very specific Bullnose parts from a company in the US. The "kit" is $39 bucks, but they have a $100 minimum purchase for international shipments, and they only ship UPS expedited priority, which would likely be another $50 bucks...lol. So I asked...maybe a dumb question, but sometimes retailers refer to international as outside of North America. Anyway, the guy replied and gave me a little bit of his mind about how much of a hassle it is to ship to Canada, and that it wasn't really worth all of the troubles. Ha! Anyway, no big deal...I know why some companies don't do it, but at least this guy was honest about it...lol. He directed me to a Canadian distributor to try, which I will. No big deal. Anyway...that's not why I'm here! About a month ago, I picked up some used 15x10 ProComp wheels for a good price. I have been watching the local classifieds literally for months for a decent-ish set of used 31" AT tires, and I was finally able to grab them yesterday, and got them put on the rims today. They're a bit weather cracked, but they were cheap and will be just fine for as far as this truck will travel within the next decade...lol. I will put them on the truck soon, but I'm a bit limited at the moment with my lifting, so I was only able to mock them up this evening when I dropped them off at the shop. Getting a bit ahead of myself here, I know...but finding a cheap set of 31" AT's and cheap 15x10's was sort of a side project as I knew they were going to take some time to find. Anyway, I have them now and they will motivate me to get the truck finished quicker (maybe, lol).

Oh...wait a second...my apologies I thought you were asking about a truck. You're asking about an E-series. Gary might be able to check/confirm if the E-series and F-series used the same wiper modules/switches.

This is one of those plug-N-play modifications that makes these old trucks so nice. Gary even has a page with info right here on the Garagemahal: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/windshield-wipers.html There are lots of them used on Ebay if you go looking: https://www.ebay.com/itm/87-91-Ford-Truck-F150-F350-F250-Bronco-Wiper-DELAY-Switch-Module-Assembly/114443732261?fits=Year%3A1990%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item1aa560c525:g:YQ4AAOSwMXxfeI96 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Pickup-Truck-F150-F350-F250-Bronco-Delay-Wiper-Switch-Module-Assembly/254799624183?fits=Year%3A1990%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item3b533db7f7:g:k3AAAOSwEzxYbcO6 And I just read the other day that JBG is actually selling new units... https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-91-Wiper-Delay-Box/productinfo/35215/ So, for the price of new vs Ebay used, I'd say that new is the way to go. If you don't mind scrounging around your local junkyard, you might get one much cheaper. I paid $15 for mine. Happy hunting.

I'm getting them for my project thread as we speak. All good.

Sort of. I got in the habit of covering it a couple months ago because it was always getting covered in dust. There is a garbage can in front of the truck where Mrs. Rembrant takes the Dyson and dumps it out and then uses compressed air to blow it out and the dust all over everything...lol. That and just the dirt in general that accumulates in a working garage. Dust, sawdust, dirt, leaves, whatever. I just found it easier to whip the sheets off it and it was always shiny clean and ready to roll. But yes...winter is here. We haven't had any snow yet, but might get a dusting tomorrow. Where I live we usually don't get any snow that sticks and stays until well into January. The road salt is the issue, and if it's not on the road tomorrow it will be soon, and that is the official end of the truck season for me. So ya, it's covered for the season, but it was kinda covered anyway;).