Rembrant

Haha...are you speaking in millimeters for my benefit or are you one of those Americans that longs for the Metric system?... TGIF!

Gary, I can't really answer that with 100% certainty since my Bullnose does not have any conduits to compare to. I was comparing them to a set I removed from a Bricknose (1991) at the Junkyard, which are a little larger. I was just pointing out the size in case anybody orders a set...they are for hole sizes 1.5" on one end, and 2" on the other.

I'm going to go against the grain a bit here, but I'd pickup some scrap pieces to work on and try some self training. That's just my 2 cents. I have a little Lincoln machine with gas, and it works really well. I did do a lot of stick welding when I was younger, so I found mig pretty easy to catch on to. If taking a course is easy and cost effective, and you have the time to do so, by all means do it. However, if you're just playing around I don't think there's any harm in trying some practice pieces on your own;).

Gary, These conduits arrived today, and they are indeed smaller than the ones I already have. These appears to be meant for holes sizes 1.5" and 2", with the 2" being the door side (I think). I just glanced at the inside of my new door, and it looked to have approx a 2" hole in it...

New driver's door mostly Gary. I have to give LMC credit for the packing. Also a new set of mirrors, new door handles, door wiring conduits, and new marker light lenses for the fenders....oh, and a new washer fluid pump and spray nozzle.

Didn't do anything to the truck today, but I did drive to the border to pick up a big box of parts! TRailer deck is 54" X 8', and the box just fit between the fenders!

Gary, I've been calling the grill black, but now that I look at it again, it's actually dark grey...so maybe it is the dark charcoal version? I was just curious what level trim trucks had them or if they were just random, etc.

Rick, Completely understood! In my case it's a matter of scraping by with what I've got for the reason of this season, and I'll worry about new grill parts later. I'll leave that for easy peasy winter project stuff;).

Oh that's awesome, thanks! So...30 thou would be 22ga sheet metal. That makes sense...I knew it was pretty thin stuff. I'm going to get some stainless and make a new piece. Thanks again, it is appreciated.

Gary, Maybe what I have is the dark charcoal grill? Or maybe it was painted at some point I guess? It's just that it doesn't look like it was painted...it just looks like faded plastic.

I like this! I've only been married for 20 years, but have a similar daily routine;). It is only my wife and I, and every night she basically prepares enough food for four so that we each have enough for our lunches the next day, and boy do I get some nice lunches! I always wash my dish out and put it neatly back in my lunch bag, and just yesterday I found the sink in our office full of dishes! Buggers. If I ever left a dish in the sink growing up I'd get one of those finger pointing lectures asking just who in the hell I thought would clean up after me...lol. I guess it stuck. As much as they drove me crazy back then, I thank them for it today, and thank them often. I call it good parenting privilege!

Well I took the risk of using the lacquer thinner on the headlight doors and it worked. I used a small piece of white Scotchbrite, and the paint did come off. You pretty much have to let it soak a little bit. I couldn't scrape it off and I couldn't simply wipe it off...the thinner needs to sit on it a bit before it wipes off. The headlight doors and associated parts are not in terrible condition for their age, and I don't mind them looking a little bit weathered (Isn't that weathered look a thing these days?...lol). I'm going to repaint all of the tabs black...can't really see them anyway. The upper grill trim piece (the metal one) had a noticeable dent in it that was driving me crazy. I laid it flat on the bench on a soft rag and then hammered the inside with a piece of wood, and the dent is almost completely gone...I don't think you'll even see it afterwards. This old junk is going to look pretty good! Gary, Question for ya... I've been running a black 82-86 grill in my truck. It was an original Ford part that a local guy was selling a couple years ago and I kinda liked it. Not sure if it is staying or not, but I'm curious...can you remind me again which trucks did come with the black grills? Was it just the Broncos? The number on the back of it is E2TB-8150 A/B if that is any help.

Interesting. I didn't even know you could still get retreads for passenger vehicles. These are only for the rear, right? I seem to recall that when they sold them here they were not approved for front installation. Mind you, that was a long time ago...I'm sure the technology is better these days. I had a set of winter retreads on the back of an '84 Ranger many years ago.

OK, that helps, a lot. Thank you Kram! I don't suppose there's any way to tell how thick that little tin piece is inside the box is there? I'm I'm understanding it correctly, the thickness of that piece will affect where the filler door sits in relation to the fender...

Guys, I'm back to working on this fuel filler box. I have two of them, and the metal parts that were attached to both of them are long gone. There was a metal ring bonded to the back of the box where the filler neck flange connected. I have that part rectified already. What I'm curious about is the stamped metal piece that used to be on the "front" of the box. It was inside the box, correct? Was there anything on the outside of the box? And by outside, what I mean is on the front where it attaches to the inside of the fiberglass fender? I can't remember from when I took it apart, and what was left of the metal was crumbling away as I took it all apart. Would any of you happen to have any pictures of this stuff?...Either one of these boxes, or a view inside the fuel filler area with the door open?

Ron, I too had to replace the timing cover on my 302, but for a different reason. In my case, the PO had crossthreaded the fuel pump bolt holes and one of them was deformed. Between that and the overall corrosion and filth of the cover, I decided to replace it. Something to watch for with a replacement cover is how well it fits on the dowel pins. My original Ford cover fit tight on the pins, but my replacement did not. It had to be centered on the balancer during installation, which is no big deal, but it is something to check for. If it does need to be centered on the balancer, this will make lowering the oil pan almost a necessity. Glad you found the problem in there. This thing is going to run very nice when it's all tightened back up!!

Well done Gary!

Dave, the heat and humidity is killing me here, and I'm a 1000 miles or so north of you...lol. Seriously...I was supposed to be finished all this stuff in the spring. I get it man.

My truck has it, yes, but it is not installed in this picture. The fenders that I put on the truck are only temporary placements. The body shop ordered two new fenders. I had these ones from the '85 I scrapped. I've been doing everything possible to keep the labor hours down for the bodyshop, and part of that was hacking the old fenders off. Most of the bolts were rusted and stuck, so I spent a lot of time removing them and cleaning behind them, cleaning up the fender liners, etc, etc. It's really just to make things easier for them, which in turn is cheaper for me. The shop wanted to supply the fenders in case they have any fitment issues they can just return them for replacements. The driver's door shell I had to order out of the US. The "stone guard" or whatever that front valance between the bumper and grill is called I actually had a NOS Ford piece that I bought locally. Other than that they'll be doing both cab corners, and those I also bought locally.

Almost looks like the work of Von Dutch! Nice truck though.

My old bull is just about ready for the body shop. All that is left to do really is to remove the bed and pull the grill and mirrors. I have to drive it 20 miles to my work where I'll finished disassembly (body shop is on the same street, so I'll drive it over there as stripped down as I can get it). The bumper was a real pain...I had to drill all four mounting bolts out. I'm getting good and tired of drilling and cutting bolts off on this truck...lol. Spent some time cleaning up the frame horns so that it is all clean and ready for reassembly. Question(s) for the experts... The truck was painted sometime previously...or touched up, whatever...and things the grill/headlight bezels were only taped off. Therefore there is some blue paint on the edges of the headlight bezels. Would I be safe taking lacquer thinner to try and remove that paint or will it ruin the finish on the bezels? I do plan to replace them, but not this year. Second... cleaning up both front and rear chrome bumpers. Again, they will likely be replaced at some point, but definitely not in 2019. SOS Pads have always been my go-to for cleaning up old dull chrome, but I figured I'd ask you guys if there is anything better or and method I don't know about??...Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

In case anybody missed this one that was posted on FB recently. I'd say this one is on the bumpstops!

Hey Grumpin good idea. I will give that a try as well.

I see somebody posted a link on FB to this truck on MECUM and that it sold for $11,000. https://www.mecum.com/lots/PA0819-379525/1984-ford-f150-pickup/?fbclid=IwAR2AGM_vEcSBQeRQCYrCZSBwcjIM6fhE-lO8bi4hdYNRdpaM9OG7UX4iBhI

There was a little loop there for it yes, and yes I did insert the plastic tube in there. It never occurred to me to check the later trucks for a filler hose...I never see them in the junkyards or being parted out. I'll check around and see what I can find. With my truck being a Flareside, the styleside fuel filler is not a direct fit...they are different. Maybe the 92-up Flareside filler will work if I can find one. In any case, I'll check the vent tube and make sure it is all OK.