Rembrant

Well, pretty soon they'll have nowhere to put it all... An oil refinery is one of my biggest customers, and they make a lot of jet fuel. They've had to cut production back to just a trickle...

I wonder how low it will go? I mean the tanks have to be stuffed full everywhere by now. The price has to have a floor, but I wonder if they'll keep dropping it to try and keep it moving...

As I mentioned above, Scott suggested a less restrictive air filter. Are there options other than K&N or a K&N style filter for this?>.. A paper element filter is a paper element filter...don't they all flow about the same?

Same thing here with the fill-ups. Right now gas here is 71.6 cents/liter, or $2.72/gallon CDN. That is the cheapest gas has been here in 30 years. It is supposed to be going down tomorrow again. A few weeks ago it was typically around $1.15/Liter, and had not been less than a buck in years. In the summer it would have been more like $1.25/Liter. How low is it in the US? Must be under a dollar a gallon out in places like OK where Gary is? I thought I saw a picture online the other day of a gas station in Kentucky and it showed 99 cents?

Hi Dave, I actually checked them and they're nice and free. The distributor is brand new, so they should be good. I'll get some more testing done when the weather comes back around again. As Bullnose issues go, this should be an easier one to sort out... Curious about something. I happened to notice this little heat shield for the passenger side wiring harness on a 1986 truck being parted out. It is an F250 with 351w, to protect the wiring harness from the heat of the exhaust manifold I assume. I just happened to see another truck with one...I think Max's 1980 F100 w/300-6. My 1984 doesn't have one and doesn't appear to have ever had one...there are no screw holes in the cab there, and it is still clean and blue like the rest of the firewall. Was this shield engine specific and just not required with the 302? It seems like one of those things they would have included on all cabs, but maybe the smallest V8's didn't get them?

Haha, well I know what the filter does... What is the airbox cover for? Just a visual thing? Why would one buy this kit over just a filter? Is Banks making their own filters?

Speaking of Banks, what exactly does this kit below do anyway? https://www.bankspowerproducts.com/Banks-Power-49216-Ram-Air-Intake-System-p/49216.htm

Between picking it up and the little bit of running around I've done with it, I've now put 180 miles on it, and according to the gauge, I still haven't burned the 26.4 gallons I put in it, so it must be getting at least 7mpg. We'll see. I don't have high hopes in the MPG department, but I'll get it as good as I can. I emailed Scott at Parkland for advice, and he was quick and to the point: 1. Set base timing at 13 deg with distributor disconnected. 2. Install a 180 deg high flow thermostat. 3. Install a low resistance air filter in the stock air cleaner. 4. Free flowing exhaust, preferably with headers. 5. Buy his 460 top end kit. Do any or all of those mods in that order. I will definitely be doing items 1 through 3, and not likely ever do 4 and 5. This thing is an RV after all...lol. I don't want to hotrod it, I just want it to work it's very best.

I love this truck! Looks great, and you've done an amazing restoration in a relatively short amount of time.

I'm still rockin' an old metal droplight...and I have a brand new one with the cord still coiled up as a spare for when my existing 20 year old light finally bites the dust...lol.

Gary, Bit of a catch-22 situation at the moment. Gas is just a hair over 70 cents a Liter here now...the cheapest it has been in 30 years I'm quite sure. What a wonderful time to buy something that gets what, 8mpg?...lol. We were quite excited and made the deal with a bit of extra enthusiasm as we figured we'd get to possibly take it a even a little further this summer than we had originally planned. A week goes by and the economy is all but shut down, I've taken approx a 30% pay cut, and we can't go anywhere...lol. Still, Mrs. Rembrant is super excited regardless and she keeps reminding me that this his/hers project is an excellent distraction even if we only get to use it very little this summer. It is super cool to see her so excited. (She does not get very excited about my old Bullnose...lol). It will keep us busy. Annd...I got notice today that an order from LMC that I've been waiting a month for has finally shipped. I'll be back at the Bullnose shortly;).

Same thing up here Jim. Of all the cutaways I found, all were diesels, and all of the regular single wheel vans had smaller gas engines (All Triton era stuff). Small bit of news today I located the correct EVTM for the Cab/Chassis on Ebay, and not only did I find several of them, I even found one for sale in Canada. Should be here in a couple days. I still need to order the factory service manuals on CD, but they are readily available, so no big deal there. The Econoline is included win the F-series sets, but for whatever reason the Econolin EVTM is not included. (For my 1984 and 1985 F-series FSM's at least). I noticed that the 1993 set is strictly mechanical and does not include the EVTM for the F or E series. I also found the diagnostic connector. I'm going to pick up one of those Innova 3145 OBD1 code readers. I actually had one before but sold it. Bugger. And I finally finished cleaning the interior of the cab. First round at least...it still needs more cleaning. This thing was so gross inside. Ugh. Anyway, there is a light at the end of the tunnel, and we will get it all cleaned up. Check out the wood dash pieces...gotta break out the Armor-All annnd Varnish with this luxury machine...ha!

I don't have hearing aids, but I do have terrible Tinnitus and the wind noise really bothers me...not only while I'm driving, but for hours afterwards...sometimes the whole rest of the day. It is the only reason I'm going through all the trouble to install AC in my Non-AC truck. I'm only mentioning it because I understand how annoying it is.

David, Very good finds, especially the first two items. Both saved in My Ebay, thank you. I have to get the rest of the luggage compartments opened up in the next few days and make sure none of the missing parts are in storage. The current world situation is going to be putting a bit of a damper on my projects, at least in the spending money part. I have a lot of cleaning and rehab work to keep me busy with both the Bullnose and the RV. Due to the type of work I'm in, I've taken approx 30% pay cut as of a week ago, and I'd say that will be continuing long after the current crisis settles down. The good news is I'm still working. My job is relatively safe, but even it has an expiry date under current conditions. Like everybody else, I have a whole bunch of little projects in the queue that need to be taken care of, and what better time to do it than now.

Thanks Jim! I've found the parts at wrecking yards in Oregon and Georgia (if Car-Part.com is current/accurate). Problem I have right now is, my USA shipping address is no good because I can't get across the border for at least 30 days...maybe longer, and I have a bunch of parts sitting in Maine now waiting to be picked up. Shipping to Canada will still be fine, but a lot of sellers in the US don't want to do that. And, I still have to get all of the compartments opened up and make sure the intake isn't hidden in there somewhere. The locks on all of them are stuck/seized at the moment, but I hope to have them all freed up in the next couple days.

Same thing up here Jim. Of all the cutaways I found, all were diesels, and all of the regular single wheel vans had smaller gas engines (All Triton era stuff).

Ha! Isn't that funny...I didn't realize it until you guys started discussing it, but in typical Ford fashion, that intake diagram is labelled incorrectly. #13 and #15 do not connect together. #15 actually connects to the 90 deg barb on top of the intake duct almost where it connects to the air filter box, and #13 actually connects to hose #11. You can see it in the picture below: And those horns you guys were talking about earlier that owners often cut off, they are part of the plastic piece that is between the two sections of intake hoses between the air box and the throttle body, or at least that was my understanding from reading up on these parts earlier.

I saw a bumper sticker on an old beat up Chevy in western NC about 15 years ago and it said "England will last forever. Scotland will last a wee bit longer!). Welcome aboard Gregg. I made a very quick visit to Annapolis back in 2008. I bought a Tacoma at Koons Toyota, and then traveled there to pick it up. I was in and out pretty quick. I remember arguing with the salesman at the time because all I wanted was an out of state transfer since I was going to be out of Maryland asap, but they made me pay for a temporary MD permit! He said it was state law, and too bad about my whining...lol. In any case, I too have a 1984 F150 Flareside, so if there are pictures you need I may be able to help out. Just shout.

I found a picture of what the intake snorkel looks like on the passenger side. I guess it is drawing from the area in front of the core support, behind the edge of the hood? Kind of hard to tell. I guess you can kind of see it here in this picture? The declared a state of emergency here yesterday about mid day. Everybody has been ignoring the calls to stay away from large groups, and there were a few hundred people partying at the beach yesterday. The police showed up and told them all to go home, and apparently they were ignored. Today there's a $1000 fine if you're caught out running around without a very good reason.

Only thing I can think of would be the dual batteries that wouldn't be present in the regular gas models. I haven't looked to closely at this thing yet, so I don't know which battery is the standard one that would exist in all of them.

Jim, I'll be looking at all of the options to get the air intake back to a somewhat normal installation, preferably with a real cold air intake that draws from outside the engine bay. As you know, there's not much room in the E350 engine bay with a 460 in there. This is what the intake assembly is supposed to look like. And this is what is in there now. Some of the original duct work is still there, but the air box and mounting bracket is not, nor is there any of the duct work that fed the air box. The receipt for the propane install came with the RV. The original owner's paid $2500 for the system back in 1993, and it was kit specifically for the 460 EFI. The only thing I don't know, is where the cold air was drawn from. I've read that the 90's class-C RV's drew their intake air from under the hood and did not draw outside air at all.

Hey Gary, Yes overall she is in pretty good condition. It has 120k miles on it, and has had a bunch of work done to that helped in my buying decision. It came from out west as we say...Alberta, where the prairie climate preserves things a little better than out here on the damp and salty coast. It was converted from gas to propane when it was brand new, so not only does it have a 30lb propane tank for the appliances, it also has two 100lb belly tanks for the engine. Sometime in the past few years it was converted back to gas, but is still using the underhood open element air cleaner that was part of the propane conversion. This is why I was on the hunt for a stock air cleaner housing and intake ducting. I'll replace it when I find all the pieces. I drove it 120 miles to get it home and it has some things that need to be fixed up. Coolant temp gauge is not working. Cruise control works, but kicks off when you turn on the right hand signal light...lol. Steering wheel is way off center, so it needs and alignment. I'll have to check out the front end...at a minimum is needs new shocks and swaybar bushings. Worse case it needs a new steering gear, but I see that it has a steering stabilizer on it...aftermarket I'm sure. I could start with that. As far as the coach is concerned, it needs a new grey water tank, and the on board generator needs service (supposedly). It starts, but kicks off shortly afterwards. Flooring needs to be replaced. Hard to believe, but when they built this stupid thing, they carpeted the entire floor, and then built/assembled the interior on top of it. Good grief. The carpet is getting ripped out next weekend and will get replaced with some kind of vinyl. It's a his and hers type of project. The wife wants to paint, decorate, upholster, etc. She's very much into that stuff and does it all herself. In searching for info on the drivetrain in this thing, I came across a lot of recommendations for a Banks kit for the E4OD. https://www.bankspower.com/i-773-transcommand-automatic-transmission-management-computer-for-1989-1998-ford-e40d-auto-trans.html After driving it, I see what they were complaining about. It shifts so softly that you actually can't even feel it shift...which is weird. I'm told that the Banks kit rectifies that and makes the trans run cooler (less slippage when shifting gears?). It has a heavy duty trailer hitch, and the guy had the frame reinforced where the hitch attaches. It also has 7pin trailer connector and new trailer brake controller. Anyway, it'll be fun, and we can work on it together.

So we finally dragged this tank home today. Spending money on buying something like this at the start of a nasty economic downturn goes against every ounce of Scottish blood in my body, but Mrs. Rembrant really really wanted this and to do some running around, and to just have a project in general. She is going to handle all interior aspects, and I will deal with the mechanical stuff. All good. It is a beast. It is a 1993 with 460 EFI, E4OD trans, and according to the cert label, has a Dana rear diff with 4.10 gears (Code 62)?

Didn't somebody post a "new" aftermarket harness lately that was fairly well put together, but really expensive?...like $1500? I don't mean the cheapo generic harness kits available on Ebay, but one with a whole assortment of Ford factory plugs and connectors. Where did I see that one... Rewiring one of these trucks wouldn't be all that difficult...at least not a plain jane bare bones truck like my own, with every electrical option deleted from the factory...lol. A 302 EFI truck...that would be a different story. If I had to rewire one personally, it would be getting a carb and DSII swap tout de suite!

It needs a new dash pad, obviously.