grumpin

That’s great Gary! Thanks to you and to Bill. You can never have to much info.

Yep, and I can confirm, they are NOT comfortable to sit in so I will never understand the point of making them other than to just waste a perfectly useable tailgate because one "thinks" they look cool. Spendy benches! Wonder if they know that? Thought of buying a flow through tail gate to keep some tweaker from stealing mine. Haven’t found one I like yet.

I need ones of those signs! Looking good Bill!

Welcome!

Welcome!

Welcome!

Cool! Good plan! I’d like to see pictures of the install. Should be slick!

Nice! Not a bad price either.

Welcome!

Needless to say, I responded and thanked her, profusely! Impressive!

I used a 3 jaw puller. Sometimes though I could get it off by hand.

Ha! Cheap entertainment!

I don’t think those are actually cross members, I think they are dork locators!

Looks nice!

Here’s a how to I googled and found, many more out there. A multimeter is a very good tool to have. The one in the post is fairly inexpensive from Harbor Freight. I recently fixed up an old favorite Craftsman that I’ve had for years. I also keep a cheap analog (needle that swings) around. Sometimes when I’m just looking for voltage or continuity and all I need to see is movement, I like them. https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all

Ok, thanks a bunch Gary!

Ok, I’m on an iPad. Do I copy the link then go to more and permalink? Sorry for the hijack!

The Motorcraft pickup is working great!

Yes sir, that’s it. I’ll have to figure out what I’m doing wrong with the links.

That sounded pretty good as my checking showed that the gland nuts I have would pass the 3/8" FME connector, and they'll tighten down nicely on the ~1/4" thick RG58 coax. However, when I went to the Midland website it cannot find an MXTA51. And when I Google that number there are no results on the whole of the internet. So I have no idea on price and no way to order it. I sent Midland back an email and turned to looking for the SO-239 connector to mount in the back of the cab. I decided I wanted a "rear mount" connector, meaning one that would slide through the hole in the roof from inside the cab and be secured with a nut on the outside. That's because to have a nut on the inside would mean I'd have to either drop the headliner or remove the cargo light to get a wrench in there, and I don't want to do either. Called Digi-Key and they don't have any panel mounts that don't use 4 screws in the corners instead a nut. Called Mouser. And checked several others as well, including Amazon. But no one had what I was looking for. Finally I found a page that give me a part number for the Amphenol connector and Googled that. Got a hit at Derf Electronics and they had the part. After finally getting to the right guy I got a price of $23 + shipping, so I bit the bullet and ordered it. This solution is the one I've wanted with one minor issue - the Amphenol connector isn't waterproof. But it looks like the ones that are just have a rubber washer under the nut and washer, and I have one of those so I think it'll be fine. And I can use a bit of RTV as well. But it will allow me to change out the antenna w/o going back into the headliner, so I think it is the right approach. Sounds like a plan, bit of a headache, but should work great. I think you can seal it up also.

I’d like to give you a heads up on the aftermarket pickup coils. Here’s what I did with mine. Edit: removed link, some links have not been working for me lately. Search the forum for my post, 460 Non EEC Distributor.

X2 what Gary said. I had one of the wires on the pickup in the distributor break off. I would also be suspect of that new ICM, if you don’t find anything else.

No, when I’m traveling by myself I set it on the seat next to me. The radio has a 12 volt cigar lighter plug.