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grumpin

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Everything posted by grumpin

  1. I think it should bolt in, but not sure. Someone will know. I had 3.55's in my old 86 F250 and I really liked them. Always had 4.10's, that truck had no problem pulling with 3.55's and the 460.
  2. I hope it is the right turn and not into a wall I am running out of things it could be, to the point of thinking about HEI dist.! Dave ---- Good job! Hope it goes well!
  3. Those are nice looking clamps! I ended up putting worm gear clamps back on the Xterra when I did the head gaskets for the same reason, lack of room and reach for tools to remove and install the constant tension clamps.
  4. I've never used them but have thought about getting them. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/flat-band-hose-clamp-pliers or, https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/17300-flexible-hose-clamp-tool
  5. I would check the front calipers for good movement. Edit: I should say the pistons movement, not binding up or stuck. Also the calipers as well.
  6. That's good to hear! Kudos to Blue Top!
  7. Nice truck! Pretty high Buy It Now price! Edit: Don't care for the rear seat cover!
  8. I had a 1988 F250 with the 7.3. I finally went through the glow plug system, found burned connectors, bad glow plug connecters etc. Got it working good. One thing that really helped was I used a heavy duty appliance timer for the block heater, when it was cold I would have it come on two hours before I left for work. If it was really cold, three hours. And use the OE block heater, they are good. Also use good glow plugs, I think Beru was the brand then that was best. The other glow plugs wouldn't last long and they would bulge on the end when they failed. Which made for nerve wracking removal, not wanting them to break off in the preignition chamber then going into the cylinder. Here's an example of the timer, https://www.homedepot.com/p/TORK-15-Amp-24-Hour-Indoor-Plug-In-Heavy-Duty-Appliance-Timer-with-2-Outlet-Receptacles-White-RTN312/306607224
  9. "85lebaront2" They are open loop until the O2 sensor is hot enough to provide a signal, hence the heater in it. I didn’t realize that, assumed it was timed since it was OBD1. Interesting stuff here!
  10. Nice! Made my joints hurt reading it. Great to have a chore like that work so well!
  11. Ahh yes, OK, understood. That makes perfect sense and explains why the high idle is a bit different. The change was subtle, but a change regardless. The high idle doesn't go quite as high as previous and it comes down much quicker. I found a cracked spark plug boot tonight so I just ordered a new set of plugs and wires. I was going to do it over the winter, but might as well do it now while I can still road test the truck. I also noticed that it has Motorcraft Platinum plugs in it...not sure if that's good or bad, but I ordered a set of SP450 copper core plugs to replacement with. The emissions decal under the hood calls for ASF-42C as the correct originals, but I understand that the SP450's are direct replacements for them. It has ASF-42P's in it now. I was going to get Autolite 25's, but there were only 3 available on RockAuto. I don't know if the cracked plug boot makes much difference or not, but I do get some vibration sometimes. Somebody threw away all the plug wire separators and they're all intertwined with each other, so I ordered a couple packs of Dorman separators so I can get everything routed properly. Thanks again for all the help folks. She'll be running perfectly before winter at this rate;). Wanted to tell you something I learned, it’s in the owners manual, when you cold start these the idle is up for a bit. You can kick it off by tapping the pedal, like an automatic choke. Found that interesting. And as I mentioned in another thread, I haven’t had my tester hooked up to this Bronco forever! Just working great!
  12. It indeed looks like the O2 sensor was the problem, at least for now. I just took the truck for a drive and put about 30 miles on it, and it's working better than ever. I cleared the codes and none have returned. As for the oil soaked plug and wiring, I removed the plug and 4-wire harness and cleaned it all up with brake clean so that it was sparkling clean and dry. The wiring close to the plug was a bit sketchy so I straightened it all out and put head shrink on it, and then put some brush-on electric tape around where the wires enter the plug. So, unless the problem returns...and it could, I'm going to assume that the O2 sensor fixed it, along with cleaning and fixing up the wiring as well. Dumb question though...while I'm trying to wrap my brain around how this whole system ties together, since this truck has a MAF sensor on the intake, does that mean that it does not have a MAP sensor? In all my reading, I found loads of threads where guys had replaced the ICM, or ignition control module, and it was funny because I went and looked at the distributor and there was a mounting space for an ICM, but no ICM lol. I found it mounted on an aluminum heat sink on the insider of the driver's fender, back close to the fire wall. Interesting...it looks like the same ICM that would be mounted on the distributor on previous years, but mounted on the fender. There must have been a reason for that...too much heat or too much vibration on the engine? With its own heat sink I guess that helps it dissipate some heat, rather than trying to shed heat on a hot engine. Anyway, I plan to do all the typical maintenance stuff over the winter...plugs and wires, filters, sensors, etc. Thanks guys!! The 94 F250 I used to own had the ICM mounted on the fender. Moved there because of heat as you mentioned. My 92 Bronco has MAP, and as Gary pointed out the old 92 460 had MAP. I’m pretty sure it’s either MAP or MAF, not both. Edit: I think my 92 Bronco still has it on the distributor, I’ll have to look again.
  13. Since it's so intermittent, I would "lean" towards the oil soaked O2 sensor for sure.
  14. Very cool! Don't remember ever seeing one.
  15. Hmmm... Sounds like you need one of those Magic Eight Balls!
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