FuzzFace2

I think the bottom is the top and if from a Bronco would have a head liner no? Dave ----

And now you know why they had left hand threads on that side of cars & trucks. Dave ----

If you are talking how I did it just look out for the piston as I think it hit the bed wall butI did not care as I was cutting it off. All I wanted was the ribbed metal floor for my flare side bed. As for moving a full bed I used my garden tractor & trailer to move it out and back into the garage. I also used straps and hung it from the rafters when building and fitting it to the truck. Dave ----

Dave, I am running my stock rubber flooring (low hump for 3 on the tree) with now the high hump and 5spd tunnel. It fits...not 100% perfect, but it fits and nobody would ever notice the difference. Cory, I was thinking the hump is not that high over the flat floor of the auto so I may be good. For nothing I cant complain and if it does not go to the sills so what it has to be better than nothing and that is what I have now. That is a little lie about 30 min ago a FTE local member dropped off 2 red carpet floor mats that I installed. Plan to take the tuck to work tomorrow so we will see how quite they make it. Dave ----

I also have a used carpet to install if it will fit as it came out of a auto truck so I don't know how the trans tunnel will work out? Dave ----

As the subject said the next phase on my 81 Flare side is to swap out the T18 that has seen better days for a NP435 and install the Advance Adaptor Ranger Torque Splitter (AA RTS). The NP has a lower 2nd gear ratio than the T18 so it should be easier on the clutch when driving empty as you drive both granny first transmissions as a 3sp unless you have a heavy load you need to get moving from a stop. The OD should lower the RPM at 70 MPH to about 1800 RPM. Right now I am running 2300 RPM @ 65 MPH and that is with a 2.74 rear gear ratio. What is nice with the AA RTS is you can split all the gears so my 4sp granny first is now a 8sp granny first transmission with a 2sp reverse. They say some of the gear splits are so close in ratio it is not worth it to split but after driving and splitting you will know what ones are worth splitting. Right now I wanted it mostly for the lower RPM on the highway and hope to get a little more MPG to boot. I hope to get started this coming weekend or sooner depending on work and don't see why it should not be together other than needing to shorting the drive shaft. Because I am changing transmissions I did not want to risk having a shft made to fit the T18 and find it would not work on the NP435. So once the truck is on all 4 tires I will measure for a new drive shaft. I want to keep the T18 shaft just incase I want to go back less OD and I think it can be used with the NP435 so I will use the LB parts truck shaft as the one to mod. It came with 2 qt of oil to run after you run 30wt motor oil as a break in, shift handle & bolts, rubber boot and the bolts from the OD unit to the bell housing. The hardest part I for see is drilling the holes in the frame for the cross member upper & lower, that is 8 holes total! Again I would have started but with out the NP435 bolted in place I did not want to drill in the wrong place. I will be posting more pictures as I go along. Dave ----

Well not really. There should be a check valve between the vacuum supply and the holding tank to keep this from happening. My check valve is in place but is bad and at times I can hear the air flow change where it is going. So just because the valve is in the line check to make sure it is working. And yes that tin can can also rust out and cause a vacuum leak, been there done that also. Dave ----

That if you have the parts that broke off you can glass them back into place. It is kind of what I did to install the rear filler door. I also had a few cracks I had to fix. I added mat to the back side to make it stronger and just a little rosin to the front side and finish with body filler. Dave ----

I used the cherry picker to do both When one is working by ones self you use what you got Dave ----

I am also using the 4 port bypass valve because I use the water to heat the intake manifold as I am running EFI exh. manifolds on my 300 six motor. Right now I don't have working AC and this does make a big difference. I have the later HVAC system so I cant run the vent with out hot water going thru the core. Dave ----

What did he do with the spare tire? Even with out a size 13 foot and the motor / trans (300 six / T18) he has just think what a 16 gallon tank does for us flare side guys I am happy I added the 19 gallon rear tank from my parts truck. Dave ----

But it has power brakes. My 81 F100 had P/S but manual brakes with a T18 that I am thinking was also an upgrade? Cool truck What is the plan for it? Dave ----

X2 but I heard 1/2 of the vacuum at idle as a starting point. Dave ----

I have not heard of the transmission out put splines wearing just the yoke. Now you know there is a bushing in the transmission tail housing that supports the outer part of the yoke that can wear. I have a little vibration just over 65 MPH, like 67 to 69 MPH and nothing at 70 or higher that I can feel. I know my drive shaft has a dent I found when I was cleaning & painting it. My tires are new and were balanced when mounted and dose not feel like a tire vibration but a drive line or motor vibration. It also feels like it is coming from the center of the truck not at a corner like a tire would. My next big upgrade will also include a drive shaft mod, shorten & rebalance, with a transmission swap so if it is gone it was 1 of the 2 items. Guess it could be the transmission? In granny and reverse it clicks like a chipped gear and the way it shifts at times, so we will see. Dave ----

I have never seen shaft bushings in any of the kits I have gotten in the past. If me and as bad as the carb was and needing to go thru smog I would have gone for a rebuilt or new one. Being you removed the shaft, I have only removed it once and could not get it to work right when back together, I never removed one after that. That is why I said to get a rebuilt or new one. On the power valve look on the outer part for the number. I have only seen 6.5 ones come in rebuild kits. Good luck. Dave ----

I did not use a new rubber, saving it for a new slider if I ever get one. I reused the rubber that was on the glass on the parts truck. I cleaned it up, did not see any cracks from it being dried out so I used it. Yep cotton string soaked in liquid dish soap and then put in the slot in the rubber that the pinch weld goes in. The hardest part for me was how to get in the bed of the truck with out stepping on the freshly painted tail gate while holding the glass with the rubber on it. On the front clips I installed them after the glass was installed but my glass is not glued in. Dave ----

Gary, thanks for posting that. I may hold off on installing them till I have the AC working. Would be funny to install them for wind noise but have all the windows and vents open to get cool air in the cab I do believe that is them. Dave ----

This is good to know as I do have wind noise and have yet to add the strips to my truck. I know at 1 time there were measurements where the strips went could they be posted here so in 1 place if someone comes across this in a search. Dave ----

I was thinking you know what the O2 is telling the ECU but not knowing what the output DC to the carb should be for a given condition you are kind of stuck at that point. Could unplug the carb and see what that does with O2 readings but I don't see a safe way to send a signal (ma or mv) to it to see what that does to the O2 readings. Do you get a lean reading from the O2 at any one time that you can repeat and if so maybe see what the carb is getting from the ECU at that time. I kind of under stand how this should work but that ECU is a black box with no way to know what it is trying to do with out the information. Think that is why most remove the feed back system and go old school as "WE" can make and see the changes and not rely on a black box to do it for us. Do I remember the ECU needs a good ground? Maybe run another just to make sure it is grounded and see what happens. Dave ----

So if it running pig rich how would that show on the O2 readings? If they and not showing pig rich then I would think the O2 is bad or a connection back to the ECM. Is there a way to see the signal from the ECM to the carb that should be leaning it out? If there is and it is at full to make it lean then that part or carb is bad. I would also pull a plug on something that the ECM would pick up to see if it throws a code for it for just a test. Just my thinking Dave ----

Even if a motor mount was broken I cant see that a cause for the plate to strained as the locating dowels and bell housing bolts should keep the motor & transmission as 1 unit. Missing or dowels that don't fit tight can be an issue. Dave ----

At one point I was looking at TIG machines and IIRC you could take a stick machine and add the TIG parts. If I had a stick welder I would look more into this. If you do a Google search I am sure you can find something on it. Dave ----

I did see the relays but wanted to make sure. IIRC mine are mounted in about the same place. I am using old school halogen bulbs and got to say with the relays I like them over the head lights on my 02 Durango. Dave ----

Welcome to the forum If any one looks up "heat tube" that same kit can be used on the 300 six but ........ What do you do if you run EFI exh. manifolds on your 300 motor that does not have the heat tube setup? Buy the kit and copper tubing. Take the copper tubing and wrap it around 1 of the manifold tubes a few times and hook up to carb like normal. If you can fit the copper tubing around the exh manifold of a v8 I don't see why you cant do the same. So far it has worked great when cold out but I find now that summer is here I need to make the choke a little more rich as the fast idle is not kicking on when I first start the motor. Dave ----

The top cable is the one I made. It was to long and did not have the tab. I had to cut it shorter and added the end. I took the tab off the old cable, removed some of the insulation on the new cable and installed the tab. The 2nd picture is how I found the cables secured to the frame on my parts truck and believe that was factory so I put it back that way on my truck. I don't think the cables are that close to the exh pipe that I worry. Dave ----