FuzzFace2

Let's turn the engine off and it should start to glow, right? Nope. Nothing. If the motor was off AND the key then you are right. What if the motor was off and the key on did the light light? Remember as a test to see if the light is good or not it should light motor off / key on. Dave ----

Dist. gets timing and the air filter gets manifold. As for the gauge it should be smooth thru out the full swing of the float / arm. Think of it as a light dimmer, it should dim smoothly not dim a little and then just to almost off. Dave ----

Yep and all I had was the compressor and the bottom plate, the block brackets went with the parts truck motor. So being I needed to get the motor brackets but needed to stay with V belt I went with the 83-85 brackets and will get the compressor when I have the $$. This was all before I knew of the hoses but I think I will just get ones made to work. Dave ----

White Walls or RWL (raised white letters)? Can you even get WW any more as I have not seen any in a while. Any way what wheels and you have a side view of the truck so we can see. Dave ----

Its getting hot here also and why I may not drive the truck much more. Right now I am not liking you guys too much I have found that the 84 compressor I have to use for the V belt and the hoses that fit it don't fit the evap / drier of my 81 system I was told of a compressor, not for a Ford but bolts to the Ford brackets, and hoses that should work but I am a little leery of going that way. I have to buildup the bank book a little after the over drive before I can get on this AC thing. Dave ----

Nope not a thing anywhere from them or others. I guess I should talk to them to CMA should it crap out on me. Gives me something to do today when they open I don't think I would have issues when cold as it does not get that cold here. What does worry me is the Lucas oil I put in the trans is rated GL-4 / GL-5 and they say the GL-5 is not good for yellow metal in trans. Now someone said use Purple Max as it said will not hurt yellow metal but I looked at it yesterday and it is rated GL-4 / GL-5, the same as Lucas but has on the "bottle will not hurt" so what gives? I did find on the shelf Penzoil rated for GL-3 could that be used? Dave ----

Boy, there are not cheap: https://www.ebay.com/i/293492688928?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293492688928&targetid=4581046486094194&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=395665087&mkgroupid=1239149814203389&rlsatarget=pla-4581046486094194&abcId=1129776&merchantid=51291&msclkid=6548d467ef511833f6a08a8c2cdb03ac https://www.ebay.com/i/293079525218?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293079525218&targetid=4581046486094194&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=395665087&mkgroupid=1239149814203389&rlsatarget=pla-4581046486094194&abcId=1129776&merchantid=51291&msclkid=289ffdf26ff010e48641a319ac7ab736 So I drained the break in oil, I thing it should be called "flush oil". The drain plug has a magnet and it had metal chips on it. There was also a large chip in the ledge of the drain pan and when I looked at the oil it looked shinny like metal was floating in it. I put in the 2 qt's of the Redline MT-90 gear oil that came with the OD unit. The oil is pretty thin but it is what they sent so in it went. I pulled the speedo driven gear so I would not hurt it, it is new, and I checked the drive gear and it is worn in the center and will be replaced. So far I think the T18 gear will fit the NP435 and with the driven gear that worked the speedo should be on the money like before. I ordered a longer speedo cable 95" where mine from the parts truck was 70" so should be more then long enough. I put as a guess 60 miles on it both local (50 MPH limit) to high way that could have been 70+ MPH. Dave ----

Looking at the chart I can see both trans were used in 81 but I am going to throw a wrench into the gears. I just remembered seeing a tag on the side of the NP435 with a year of "85". I will go back over the charts to see if that changes anything, don't think it will. The cable is on order should be here after 4pm tomorrow, 95" should be more than long enough. The drive gear I can feel with a rubber glove on is low / worn in the middle so I don't trust it. Between the drive gear & tight cable, the 2 things that has changed, that could be the bounce. Thanks. Dave ----

So on this cable my truck is an early 81 non-speed control MT. I measured the SROD cable as it was out of the truck still on the transmission and came up with 70" By the chart it could be 71 or 73.25" so I am going with the 71 as a start. My thinking is using a 4x4 cable should give me the extra cable to reach back that 7" and not make the cable tight and that cable is 90" more than enough. Now the only one I found a size on was Auto Zone at 95". LMC did not list size and listed the same part number for both 4x2 & 4x4 trucks? So thinking AZ is the way to go at 95". Thanks again Dave ----

Should the 2nd part read "Now here's the 1981 listing. From what I read in the transmission application charts the NP435 wasn't introduced until 1983, so the 4/M/T was the T-18. And it used C80Z-B with certain gearing." I know looking over the number you can go Now what concerns me is in the top chart that shows both the T-18 & NP435 and the white gear (7 tooth?) has 2 different part numbers between them. I would think if they interchanged they would have the same part numbers no? I did pull the speedo cable out to remove the driven gear and looked at the NP435 drive gear, it is white and it feels like the gear teeth are worn down. Could be why the speedo was jumping? So it will need to be replaced when I get a longer cable and that is when I will try the swap of the drive gears. Thanks for all the help on this. Dave ----

Thanks I hope it will help others that are thinking of going for the AA OD as there is not a lot of information out on the web on them or it is vary basic that you can get from AA site. I ordered the boots last night and looked into a longer speedo cable but the web sites either list the same part numbers for both 4x2 & 4x4 cables? And then they don't list the size so how would you know if it is longer than what I have? Anyone know if the T18 drive gear will swap on to a NP435 trans? That would help a lot as I can use the one I know has worked. I was told the driven gear would work and it does but think the bouncing is the tight cable I hope to fix with a longer one. With a little more tweaking it will be just the way I want it. Dave ----

In a few I will order the shift boots so I can put the carpet down and it had a jute backing. Then again it is a truck what would it be with out a little noise. Besides I can turn the radio up Dave ----

Now that I have one coming the homemade one will last for ever Dave ----

I know Ray would like to have 1and it is the right color Dave ----

It is gone now Dave ----

The drive shaft place called late today, he got busy yesterday and forgot to call me, so we have a drive shaft and it is installed. On the way home I stopped at 4 Wheel Parts in Raleigh to see if they had either of the shift boots I was looking for, they don't stock any. I also asked about GL4 gear oil they only had Lucas syn. and it was for GL5 so it was a bust to stop. So we took the truck for it's 30 min (ran 40 min long) break in. I now need to change the 30W break in motor oil for the 90W the OD came with and will do a little more driving but I have so things I need to look into. First some asked about the noise the unit makes. First I have to say I DO NOT have any carpet and that will be fixed when I get shift boots. It does wine pretty good when in OD and in lower gears (granny, 2nd, 3rd) in 4th it is not bad. If you down shift from 4th OD to 3rd OD it will really wine but note I have light weight (30w) motor oil in it for break in. I thing it has gotten a little more quite as I was driving or I was getting use to it? but I am sure with 90W gear oil in it it should be a little more quite. I also found with the little drive I did, no high way yet, like others that splitting the lower gears was lot worth it with out a load. Once it in 4th then going in and out of OD is the way to go. Now what I need to look into: The speedo is not reading right. I need to see what color the drive gear is and what color the T18 was and if I can swap the 2 drive gears? I know I was told the T18 driven fear would work and it did go into the NP435 trans but want to make sure before I go thru all the work. I may also a set of driven gears when I was getting it to work & read right with the T18 trans. The speedo is also bouncing now and never did this before. I think because I had to move the cable back it is tight and why the bouncing. I wonder if a 4x4 cable would work as it has to be longer to reach the transfer case. I need to look into the 4x4 cable and gear swap and I should be good on the speedo. I also will order the 2 shifter boots I think will work so I can get the carpet installed. Oh the OD shifter needs to be higher & back more. Once the truck was running the stick moves forward a little more and hard to reach. I need to check the thread size and I think I can get extensions at a truck stop not far from here. Should be a nice high way test drive. Dave ----

Welcome to the forum and nice looking truck. If I understand the "custom" was the base model truck and some options could then be added to that but you get to a point where you are now in the next model say "Ranger" that would have the options you wanted so it would be better to go up a model. I had 2 81 F100 trucks both with the 300 motors & sticks, a Custom & Ranger. The Custom is a SB flare side with a granny 4 sp. and just P/S. The Ranger was a LB style side like yours with a 3 sp. over drive, P/S, P/B, AC, dual tanks and radio with I think door speakers (no doors when I got the truck). I see you have a clock, neither of mine did and cant remember if it is part of the light group or not? Do you have under dash lights that come on when both doors open? I don't have under dash lights but cab light does come on with both doors. I added a clock to my flare side along with power brakes and AC. I did not see enough of the door panel but that speaker "grille" did not look factory, where is the lock placed on the panels? 81 should have the "slider locks" that work oh so great .... NOT! With the High Liner do they fit in trucks with out a head liner? I ask because I don't know how they would finish the edges to look nice and did not think Customs came with head liners, neither of my trucks had head liners. It sound like you don't plan on keeping the truck so I would not go making a lot of changes. I think a buyer (me) would pay a little more for something that has not been changed a lot or if changed had the parts that could be put back like factory, but that's me. I planed on keeping my flare side so have done a few mods that can be changed back like the bumpers & EFI exh manifolds, motor looks factory stock. Or look factory and would not tell other wise like metal ribbed bed floor (in place of wood), rear dual tank (not a factory option) using factory parts and I had to swap firewalls for AC in my truck. As they say when building a car or truck it's yours so build it your way but if looking to sell the buyers may not like how you built it so keep that in mind, think more so with the motor. Just my .02 Dave ---- ps I love my 300 six

Welcome to the forum. Would like to see what you do on the dash (pad?) as I had one I started twice and did not turn out so good. I will give it 1 more try with fleece blanket & fiber glass rosin. I just have to be in the right mood to mess with the rosin ...... messy! Dave ----

It must be a muscle thing with my hip because as I got moving it did not hurt as much, when I first got up I could hardly stand up straight. Thanks on the looking good and did you expect anything less that thorough With the carpet installed I want it to look like the factory installed the over drive and why I placed the OD stick in the pan. That's where the 4x4 stick is right? Dave ----

I got carried away, after I got out and moving I did more than just welding the pan. Did a test fit and had to do a little clearing then hit the welds with the grinder to look a little prettier but the pan will be under carpet. What I started with - SROD pan The one on the right is what I ended up with, the left is the T18 pan. You can also see how I took the high part of the pan out so I hope the carpet would fit. Under side showing the seal, I used auto & marine rubber seal. Before I put the sticks on I test fitted the used auto carpet and I it looks like it will fit but when I go to install I will have to remove the seat to fit the carpet under it but that cant happen till I get shifter boots that I am happy with. Before I bolted the pan down I filled the OD with 30W motor oil that is called for for break in. Break in is drive for 15 to 30 min. drain and refill with the 90W they sent with the OD unit. While I was filling the OD I was draining the transmission as I did not know what shape if any oil was in it. It was black but did not look that bad. With the pan off and the shifter & fill plug out I was able to fill thru the shifter and look for the oil to come out the fill hole. After 2 qt of gear oil and not getting any oil on a finger I had to look up how much it took. One post said 6 gallons! I knew that could not be right. After going they many posts to use or not use gear oil or 50W motor and GL4 or GL5 gear oil. The 2 qt were GL4 / GL5 Lucas HD gear oil. I had a little, not even half a qt, 10W-40 & 10W-30 that I added to the transmission to get the level to come out the fill plug. So with the OD & transmission filled with oil I put the shift sticks on and the pan. I did set the 1 shifter boot I may use on the pan but is not screwed down. So as of right now I am waiting for the drive shaft so I can do my break in of the OD unit. Dave ----

Any reason to not go with the VOV 38902 over the orange 38639? So anyone have an answer on this? What does the AC guy next door say? AC is the next project on my truck and have wondered on the valves. If one is good then the other must be better no? Dave ----

Is this using the stuff you started this post on? Dave ----

I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. No I can't get a piece of tube the correct dimensions to replace the 4x4 without adding something. It can't be over about 3.25" wide at the top to fit in the channel, and it needs to be 4" wide below that to support the outer 3/4" of the sill and to more-or-less line up with the outer edge of the door. And no I can't just make the door sill flat without the channel to fit against a flat tube. If I cut the outer step off and raise that surface the bottom of the door will hit it. And if I cut out the entire sill to lower the main part of it I won't have anything left to attach the replacement rocker to. I could use 3/4" tall tube on top of the 4x4, but a 3/4" square tube doesn't spread the load out as well as a wider tube and it makes a smaller target to weld to. And using a full tube adds material where it isn't helpful. And I'm not going to double up the tube I cut. I'm planning to cut one side off a 1x1 square tube, making it into a 1" x 3/4" C-channel and welding that to the 4x4 (unless you mean welding the 1" x 3/4" "C-channel" to the 4x4 is doubling up). I might get some "hate" for this, but I think that mounting a roll cage to the body is way under-rated. Is it as strong as going to the frame? Of course not. But it will take a pretty bad roll to rip it up to the point where it's not protecting the occupants. I think what I have is a lot stronger than any hard-top vehicle with no cage. Clearly that's not saying it's good enough to meet tech inspection in a race, but I don't race. It's going to hold up fine in an off-road flop, and will be better than my pickup in a freeway rollover. No use the 4x4 but where you are saying to use the tube I keep thinking pipe. You want / need to fill the void at the top and was thinking channel instead of a tube. Now square tubing (tube) that would work again when I see tube I think pipe On the bar as long as the floor is not rusting at the rockers or rear wheel wells for the rear bar then I guess it would be ok on a flop if that is all it was going to do. I also don't know how "crazy" it can get where you wheel but if you feel safe that is all the counts. Dave ----

Drive shaft was sent out yesterday and then got called into work. When I got home it was to late to do any work on the truck and my hip is hurting pretty good today so don't know if I will got out to the garage. Would like to finish welding the pan, fill the OD & drain and fill the trans wit oil. Dave ----

Could you get channel the right width so you don't need to cut the square tube and double it up? Have to ask does that roll cage go to the frame? I would hate to see the plates cut thru the floor, you did round the down side edges? and be useless as a cage. It not hard to do, out riggers from the frame with a plate (rounded edges again) to sandwich the floor at all the cage to floor contact areas. A dash & behind the seat bars keep the cage square around the driver / passenger, in racing we did not need to worry anyone in a rear seat but could add a removable cross bar across the back gate area. In racing we X the halo bar back to the rear seat area and the fuel cell was within this X area for protection. With the dash & seat bars the X and 8 frame points you can do a half gainer and end up on the roof and walk away, the truck not so much Dave ----