FuzzFace2

I was not out in the sun but it was 94* in my garage at one point when I looked Large fan helped some but when working inside the truck you don't get much air moving. Dave ----

Well I did not get the GL-4 oil so no drain and refill but the boots are in place and so is the used carpet and floor mats I was given. I bought 1 boot that had 2 openings and the off set I needed but when I test fitted it the opening in the pan was to large for the transmission part of the boot and the transfer shifter boot part was to large for where my OD shifter is. So I ended up using the large boot that I think came with the NP435 and when I bought that 2 in 1 boot I bought another that I felt would work if the 2 in 1 did not and good thing. The large boot had a metal ring and because the boot had to go over the bend in the pan I had to cut a lip on the ring so I could bend it. Got that screwed down and then worked on the OD boot. It did not come with any holes or a metal ring. So out came my hole punches to make some hole for screws. 2 screws come in on the side of the pan to keep the boot centered on the stick. beside the 2 screws each side, only used 1 hole / screw on the transmission side no room for the other, I added holes top & bottom. 1 for the side screws also holds down the trans boot. Sorry I did not get pictures of the boots before install to damn hot to stop to take them. I then pulled the sticks. I bent the OD back more as I had to reach to get it in and out of OD. Also with the carpet laid down I could trim it to fit around the sticks. I unbolted the seat, no help to pull it out and back in so I had to lift it and stuff the carpet under it. The belt bolts also had to come out along with the behind the seat storage rack, carpet goes under it. Got the carpet under the seat and made cuts to the carpet to fit over the trans tower and for the OD handle just so the carpet would sit right on the floor. Got the belts and seat bolted back down and it hit me how to get the pan & sticks back in place and get the carpet over them ???????????? I was able to fold the carpet on to the seat, get the OD stick bolted back in place, opening in carpet will work to get it back on the floor, fish the pan back and bolted down. Then the fun of bolting the boots back to the pan. The trans stick had to go thru the carpet but the boot had to be on the stick and the stick fitted to the trans. A lot of fighting with boots screws, carpet, sticks poking me but I got the boots in place and the carpet fold back to the floor. The next fun was trimming the carpet to fit under the lower lip of the boots just above the screwing lip of the boots. For a trimming I found using sheet metal sheers worked the best. Trim a little fit, trim more till the carpet was where I wanted it and look good. Fit the carpet under the door sill plates, a little clean up and took for a ride. The carpet & mats totally change the truck. No more road noise and I can hardly hear the wine of the OD, it's like a new truck! When I can get the wife to ride with me I will have her write while I match MPH to RPM in and out of over drive. Dave ----

I like it, was easy to install just need to make sure you have wrenches big enough to fit the fittings is all, think over 1". I got 2 kits, M7500 3/4" master kit, and some extra fittings as I ran a loop around the top of the walls so I needed extra blue line and some fittings to make the loop and 5 drops so was cheaper to get the 2nd kit. The extra fitting on top of the 2 kits was for the 4 corners, I did not want to bend the blue line and the corner fittings make it look cleaner. I also needed a Tee for the compressor line tie in and fittings for a regulator. The regulator failed so I removed it and run the compressor's 175 PSI straight into the loop. One of the reasons for the 5 drops so I did not need to run hoses across the shop. Because I use 1 bay out of 2 I have, I use 2 drops most of the time. One is at the back of the bay and the other is at the doors between them. Both have a 25' hose hooked to then all the time and if I need more I have 1 or 2 100' hoses I can reach the house garage with if I don't want to fill the portable air tank. My other drops are on each side wall, 1 has a work bench, and the rear of the other bay by the compressor. I forget this drop is even there. In the 5 years I have had it working I only had 1 fitting fail and that was at the Tee into the main loop. I think the line was to short and I did not tighten the fitting enough. Other wise I am happy with the system and would do it again if I had to. Dave ----

WOW that is all I can say WOW. What does a toper go for and one of them new pads? I got to see about fixing the pad I have and sell it Dave ----

I was thinking the same thing for me But I cant swing that not after the over drive I just installed. BTW I don't think I have ever seen a paint job like the one on the Ranger Lariat? 2nd one up from the lower right. The only truck not RED & WHITE is the flare side ......... now I don't what it Dave ----

Is there a spud shaft between the transmission out put shaft and the transfer case in put shaft to join the 2 together? This spud shaft would be in the transfer case adaptor, maybe he meant adaptor? The only Ford stuff I played with was a C4 & think Dana 20 or 30 transfer case in a first gen Bronco back in the early 80's. The adaptor & spud shaft had to be changed as the truck came with a 3 on the tree and the adaptor & spud were different between them. Dave ----

This is what I found when measuring my two gvod trucks - both behind the tcase but one was a t19, the other a c6. The driveshafts were all the same length. This has always been my understanding, but when my swap gets to that point next week I will post in my thread to verify what I find out. If you go to Advance Adaptor's site and look up the OD unit at the end of the "how to install". One of the 4x4 mags do an install in a first gen Bronco and that would be shorter than yours right? Sorry to say they do not tell how long the drive shaft turned out to be. My shaft turned out to be 4' (48") center to center of joints but I also don't have a transfer case but is a short bed. Dave ----

Stock didn't have flares. A lot of the early aftermarket options were fiberglass (which is what those one had when I bought it) but these are made out of rubber. I know the flares as one of our 4x4 race team members had a Bronco with the plastic ones. The only rubber ones I know of are kind of flat and you trim to fit the openings, had a set on my 86 K5 Blazer. Think Jeep CJ's they made a molded type rubber they make them for Bronco's? Dave ----

Little picture of my compressor and my air cooler / dryer. It is base board fin tube and some fittings with drip legs to catch and drain water. The blue line makes a loop all the way around the garage so the air does not follow just 1 path. I have never had water make it to any of my 5 hose drops that also have drip legs. When I painted my truck I did set up a box fan on low to blow across the drier. I forgot to add a filter at the my HVLP spray gun or any other type of filters or drier and had no issues. I don't remember the specs on my compressor but I can tell you it shuts off at 175 psi as that is the spec on it. Snap-On Big Red Dave ----

Don't you need to have a drive shaft made for the T19 install? Dave ----

I will take your word on that :nabble_face-with-open-mouth-vomiting-23x23_orig:Dave ----

If you remove 7" from the rear shaft how short would it be? Might have to lower the transfer case and turn the rear housing up a little to save Ujoints. Same thing you have to do on lifted trucks. I did take the truck to work one morning and it is nice to do 70+ that the traffic was doing and not have the motor turning high RPM. At about 70 MPH it was turning about 1800 RPM. IIRC when running 55 MPH with out the over drive it was turning the same RPM. I will get RPM / MPH both in & out of OD to compare them. I got the rubber boots but got lazy today when I got home from work to fit them to see just how I want to go. 1 boot is a 2 for 1 deal and looks like it will work to cover both sticks and look real custom. The other way is 2 different boots that will kind of over lap and I don't think would look that nice. I will get pictures of the boots when I get to working on it again think this weekend. Dave ----

I can answer that with a BIG YES the pins are in different locations between power & non-power pedals. I want to say the higher pin is the non-power pedal Dave ----

https://www.amazon.com/Manifold-Destiny-Guide-Cooking-Engine/dp/1416596232/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&hvadid=77721854871371&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=manifold+destiny+cookbook&qid=1593109318&sr=8-2&tag=mh0b-20 I have a copy which my son gave to me years ago. I think my parents had that book. As a kid and we would go away camping for a month before school started and driving an old van where the motor was between the seats it was easy to cook and not even need to stop to get food. Being it was a 225 slant six it had a big flat manifold to put food on. I did strap frozen (not a good choice) hot dogs to the muffler before starting a trip from CT to OH pulling my car trailer. Dogs were cooked on 1 side and still frozen on the other side If there is a next time don't use frozen food LOL. Dave ----

IIRC the flares are plastic. If you don't have one yet might be time to buy aplastic welder. Once you get the "rocker" in place and welded you can trim the flare with a hack saw and heat to bend the edges back where they need to be and weld it and finish it to look good. If you don't want to go with the plastic welder look into https://www.plastex.net/I have used it and works great. Dave ----

It is an up grade to what he had but the two stage compressor is the way to go. What I don't get is the 3 piston but single stage? They must use the 3 pistons to get the 14 SCFM @ 90 PSI So what tool do you have that uses the most SCFM @ what PSI? This is what you base what compressor you need so it will not be running 100% of the time and still lose PSI. Do you plan to plumb the shop or just run a hose off the compressor? Have you thought of a air drier / cooler? It is easy to make one. I can put you on to a plumbing kit & DIY drier. Both will make your compressor more enjoyable. Dave ----

For some good gas mileage data, look at Matthew's report [he has a 300 with C6]: Search for: My 2019 Show Report + MPG Data After taking my truck to work for the first time since the over drive install I can see it will be hard to do a comparison at 65MPH. When in OD the truck moves along at 70-73 MPH real easy at under 2000 RPM (more like 1800 RPM) . I have to work hard to keep it at 65 MPH in OD and was just over 1500 RPM Dave ----

And I thought my mid 14's was bad ouch! Now this was with the 300 / T18 trans / 2.75 gear stock size tires and staying 65 MPH for 30 miles to work and sometimes 45 to 50 MPH stop & go for 30 miles home on back roads. I now have a NP435 trans and added over drive and need to run a few tanks to see if over drive helped or hurt as I just got the truck back on the road. I have started to look into what it will take to lean the YFA carb out with the metering rod. When I rebuilt my carb a PO really made a mess of it, missing or wrong type (wood) screws and think they messed with the rod. The paper did not say what the setting should be for it but have since found on Youtube what it should be. Could this be your issue also? Dave ----

When this was first posted I did see no AC and AZ WOW! I have the vents but no rear window and when it rains I have to have the windows rolled almost all the way up cutting down on air flow in. With the wing windows pointing on you, floor vent open and the roll down door glass as long as you are moving its not to bad. Dave ----

I cant help on the first but I think the second one is for the clock as the wire colors sound about right. IIRC there was 2 or 3 different plugs that the clocks had and think wire colors of 2 wires changed over the years. This is going back about 6 months when I added a clock to my truck that did not have one. Dave ----

Nice score Who even looks at that when shifting? They have not moved the positions since think mid 60's. Dave ----

Might try a boat yard as they should have hose for boat tanks. Dave ----

Well this fill up has some miles on it without a way to track just how far I drove it so the number may have to wait LOL Loaded the trash in the back and it is maybe 5 miles each way and only put it into OD on the way back just to see, 45 MPH is like 1200-1300 RPM think 55 MPH was think 1500 or a little more, both in OD. It is getting hot so driving the truck with out AC much is not likely. I need to have a rider to write down the MPH and RPM in & out of OD because I cant remember it all and to write when driving is not cool. Dave ----

Jim - I think the problem is that he needs to weld the ends in while the tube is out of the vehicle so he can get to all sides to weld. Then he'll weld the tube into the vehicle. So he can't put the oil in prior to welding in the tube, and can't roll it round afterwards. That's why I think he needs to seal it and put some preservative inside. I think Jim's thought was to leave big enough holes at both ends (like in one lower corner of each end) so I could put a garden hose against one hole and flush everything out the other end. That might work, but I think I'd rather have it pretty well sealed with some preservative in it. And although I could get at the ends enough to weld them on after the tube is on the vehicle, that definitely wouldn't be the easy way to do it. And I don't see much benefit to welding them on later, so I'll probably do them off the vehicle. But I definitely don't want to put the oil in before welding the tubes to the vehicle. Pouring a bunch of heat into tubes filled with oil doesn't sound like a great idea. And the tubes will be welded to the body tub. There's no decent way around that. That Par-Al-Ketone and also the beeswax sound like stuff that stuff that more needs to be applied. What about just pouring a pint or so of bar oil in each tube? It won't get the upper surfaces very well, but water won't ever pool on that either. Although I suppose enough water in the tube and the oil would float away from the steel so it could rust under the oil but in contact with the water. Still, I think that will work well enough. So I guess that's how I'm leaning right now. What you need is this https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html You could weld up both ends, drill a small hole for the straw to coat the inside and then seal the hole with RTV I have used it on a buddies 1 year only hood to spray between the frame and skin and the front edge where they rust out. I did this years ago and then moved so cant say how it is holding up but had to be better then nothing. Dave ----

I have to thank Gary & members that have helped me not only on this project but the whole project The BW T18 drive gear DOES swap with the NP435 drive gear! Got out to the garage about 4:30am and first pulled the good gear from the T18 as I installed this not long ago to get the speedo working with help from Gary. I then wanted to make sure the new speedo cable was longer before pulling the old one out of the truck and it was. So I pulled the old cable with out pulling the cluster. I was able to just pull on cable at the cluster and it came right off Going back on was not as easy. Took about an hour and was just about to give up and pull the cluster and it popped on More than long enough to make nice big looping bends. Then on to pulling the trail housing and the drive gear. It made a little bigger mess than I wanted as the housing had a lot of gear oil in it. When trying to get the old gear off I was worried the good one would not fit because the snap ring was tight on the full shaft where the T18 the snap ring once pulled out of the groove came right off. Once I had both gears in hand I could see they were the same. Going back on the snap ring fought me the whole way and the metal ball that keeps the drive gear from turning on the shaft (think key way) fell out With the oil & oil dry on the ground I had a hard time finding it but did. Used a little gasket sealer on the housing side and got it back up and bolted down, mount back in place and drive shaft back on. I also pickup a back up light switch pig tail as the one on the truck was bad and I spliced on a Weather pack plug but it did not fit tight on the trans so I have wire ties holding it in place. I used butt connectors with shrink wrap on them to make it weather tight. I then used 1/4" plastic wire wrap from switch to plug on frame because the factory coving was cracked and open in places. Before getting it off jack stands I ran it thru the gears and the speedo works It was now 9am and my lovely wife had breakfast ready for me. I went back outto cut the OD slot a little more because when shifted into OD the stick hit the pan a little so I gave it more room. I then cleaned out the mess I made. I have not road tested yet, got to do a trash run, but I don't see why speedo would not work. I will report what the RPMs are at what MPHs when I get it on the road more. Thanks again every one Dave ----