FuzzFace2

My truck came with the later radiator wired in place by My parts truck had the right radiator my no upper clamps so I had to buy used ones from someone parting out a truck. Thing was when I got them it was missing 1 of the metal support part so I made one, cant tell unless you really look at them. Dave ----

This one looks to be for the small cap as it has clips to hold the cap to the distributor body. Dave ----

This one looks to be for the large cap that uses the adapter as the adapter screws to the distributor body. Dave ----

:nabble_smiley_blush:yes that's what I meant Thats what happens when you jump back and forth between 3 different forums Dave ----

What do they say "you dont get anything (good) for nothing" Dave ----

$500 + shipping from Cal. And it is full of holes from what looks like a mat that was installed to the inside. They show its not bent left to right, across the top & bottom but what about it being bent in half top to bottom as it hits the bumper, it looks like it has marks from. Dave ----

Another Flare Side:nabble_anim_jump: Welcome to FTE cant wait to see more pictures of your project. Dave ----

Well it is easy enough to adjust the can and put the hose on & off so I may give that a try. Pulling the dist. and swapping the springs is not bad once you have done it. I think I could have it done in and hour, R&R and running. Think I will do the adjusting and / or spring swap later in the week if I have time. Tomorrow the high here is 38*f and if I have to spend time out in it for work like today, cement you have to watch the gauges outside, I will not want to work on the truck. Besides I put the Javelin back in my garage so I would have to move it out, truck in, fire up the heater, etc. after a long day so it can wait. Dave ----

What I would call the slinger is that yellow part dont know what that washer thing is I also did not check out any of the links I was thinking the same thing on the groove ........ its not groovy man:nabble_smiley_angry: Dave ----

They dont have brake lines for the F trucks? That is strange as I would think for given years they would be the same, 150 for all 150's 80-86 same with the 250 / 350. Being the Bronco is a shorter pick up I figured the PU lines would work but if they dont make them for the PU guess you are SOL As Gary said the PU's do come with a after axle tank Dave ----

Report: Drive to work: timing set to 14* BTDC, no vacuum advance, it ran like it did on the 105 mile trip, I thought pretty good. Drive home from work: (vacuum was hooked up only as a test) Started it up to warm up a little as it was 48*f. While warming up I hooked up the vacuum to the advance can. Start up / hook vacuum up / close hood and drive. Even cold it was pinging. Anything below 1500 RPM it pinged and forget around 1000 RPM! It seam to ping at light throttle but stop at WOT. It felt like it had more get up & go with vacuum hooked up. I only drove about 5 miles and I pulled over to pull the hose off and plug it for the rest of the drive. Now when I was working I was looking over my notes and I figured with the can turned all the way CW the vacuum would kick in sooner to make up for the late centrifugal. It did not like vacuum hooked up. I would have adjusted it just to see what would happen but did not have the tool with me and it was just a test. So I may do as you said and replace the heavy factory spring with the weaker MSD heavy spring and see if I can get the centrifugal to kick in a little earlier. The only thing that you pointed out, or was it Bill?, before was the factory spring has a longer loop at 1 end where the MSD dose not so dont know what that may do to the readings? You are also right on not having a working EGR More testing & tuning to come! Dave ----

I think what you are calling a slinger is part of the pinion yoke and dose not come off. Have you tried looking for that slinger? You won't find one as it dode not come off. The inner race of the bearing should come off. If you ground a slot in it then took a hammer & chisel it should have split and came right off. Dave ----

That did make a big difference, I was shocked when I saw the readings. I think the power is pretty good the way it is. The way it was when pinging you had to get out of the throttle to stop the pinging were now you don't, you can give more throttle climbing hills now. I do think I left some on the table but now I can sneak up on it were before the pinging was in my face. More adjusting and testing and I will get it dialed in. Thanks Dave ----

Ran to HF a few towns away, 105 miles round trip, truck run great and no pining so was happy with that. First real driving since the spring swap that was more than around the block. A little later, almost dark, my son helped do the timing curve mapping after the MSD blue spring to replace the weak Mr. Gasket spring. Idle 850 14* BTDC 1000 14* 1500 14* 2000 14* 2500 16* 3000 23* 3500 29* 4000 30* I then hooked up the factory vacuum can and IIRC it is turned CW to the end. I dont remember where it starts to pull at and was to dark to hook up the vacuum gauge and the new hand vacuum pump was not working right to test. Idle 850 14* BTDC 1000 15* 1500 15* 2000 24* 2500 44* 3000 51* 3500 55* 4000 58* I am going to take the truck to work, vacuum not hooked up, and before the trip home I will hook up the vacuum and see how it runs. If it pings I can pull over and remove the hose and plug, trip in will be to dark for this if needed. I also like where the AF meter has been reading, between mid 14's and high 15's most of the time. Dave ----

If he has the vacuum line routing as shown on his sticker Then why cant he follow it? Even if the colors are faded he should still be able to follow where they go and make sure they are hooked to the right places no? Dave ----

Welcome Grant Is that your first name or last? I am a Grant also but last name Yes do post up your project and we love pictures ........... lots of pictures! Dave ----

Make sure you mount the motor plate on the motor before the flex plate. I would also try the converter on the flex plate after the plate was mount to the motor, that is if the converter dose not have fluid in it. This way you will know the converter will slip into the crank and the studs in to the flex plate with out issues. Dave ----

I was given some links & info on the dist. numbers, mainly the lower number. 9J 27 9 = year J = month think I seen they don’t use "I" so this would be the 9th month 27 = day Sept 27 1979 This could be from the motor that was in my truck as the truck was made 11/80 and if I under stand motors could be built a year before the body. Being the motor had gray paint I think it is a later year, the exh. manifold would not take the trucks head pipe so the dist was swapped over. Just my guess Dave ----

Last night in bed reflecting back on the day past I got to thinking about the dist. spring swap and not remembering if I put the flat washer & E clip back on the breaker plate? So this morning I fired up the shop heater, was 32* in the garage and checked the dish I had the parts in and sure enough the washer & clip were in it. So that was the first order to get that put back together as I needed the truck to take the trash to the dump. I also seen a little coolant on the floor and took up on the lower hose clamp as that looked like were it was coming from. I hope its not the radiator as it is only 2 years old. I also had a little gas leak when I would fill the rear tank from the fill hose. It was always hard to see just were when it happened as you would need to lay on the ground and that was not going to happen at the station. Well I got under there with a good light and took up a little in the 2 clamps that hold the 2 hoses to the pipe used to make the fill hose reach the fill door & tank. When looking I seen a little hole and remembered there was a screw in the hose that I removed when making this all fit. I was lucky that it was at the pipe and the first clamp was on the wrong side of the hole so I added a 2nd clamp and hope that fixes the leak when filling. Will see at next fill up and that is not far away. On the trash run I dont think I am getting any pinging. The noise I hear I think is exh. noise at the EFI Y pipe and front pipe. Could also be from the welded muffler as it gives a strange sound over a factory muffler. I returned the 2nd vacuum advance can as it did not fit and did not try for another so got my money back. Once I got the centrifugal advance set I will give the factory can a try as it does advance & adjusts I just did not know if it would be in the right range for my use. Dave ----

I want to say I cant remember seeing them on our year trucks I want to say they were on the first gen Bronco's but could be wrong as it has been a long time since I seen one of them. Dave ----

Yes if you have water coming in at that panel then you have dirt / leaves blocking the drain that is below that point. Pull off the kick panels and remove the 4 screws holding the metal block off panel in place and clean it out. Water should flow from the cowl down the pillars on either side and out the "duck bill" seal and out the bottom of the fenders. Now you may find after cleaning everything that the seam sealer is all dried up and failing so once dry that will need to be addressed. Some have used Flex Seal put a plastic nozzle with plastic straw so they can put the sealer where it needs to be. It comes in clear / white and think black maybe other colors? Because I had the nose off my truck I was able to use seam sealer after I removed the old bad sealer and reseal it with 2 coats. Dave ---- ps: if you can find good vent kick panels you can leave the metal panels off, install the vent panels and have flow through air. My truck did not have factory AC so it had the vents. When I added factory AC I left the vents as it was going to be a bit before I could get the AC system up & running. I have had issues with the system holding a charge so the vents come in handy LOL

Well I got back into the dist. and made some changes. As seen below I pulled the weak Mr. Gasket spring and replaced it with the heavier blue MSD spring. I also did the "pull test" between the heavy MSD spring and the factory heavy spring. Believe it or not the factory spring was heavier so I left it installed. I also moved the centrifugal limit slot from R13 to R18 In putting the dist. back together again the plan was to install the new "right" vacuum advance can. Well it did not fit the body of the dist. so it will go back to the parts store and if the factory one dose not work out I will look into a Crane Cam one. Now why I think the vacuum can did not fit is the dist. is not a 1981? Below is the number off the tag on the dist. can some one tell me anything about it? I could not do a timing curve test, no help, but I did put the timing light to it and a road test as so far I am liking what I have seen. The RPM dose come up a lot more before the centrifugal advance kicks in. I was also able to set the timing to 14* to 15* BTDC and not get any pinging on the road test I did. I hope to do the curving test this weekend with help from my son. Dave ----

Based on what the vacuum advance has added in the past testing, it added a LOT! So yes little less on the centrifugal would be the way to go. Dave ----

On the back up light switch / wire what is it you are dealing with? You have the switch but not the wire with the plug or got the wire but the plug is busted? I ask because I had the switch and wire but the plug on the end of the wire was bad. I hunted down what I had on hand and found a weather pack 2 prong plug would fit the switch. Yea it did not have a clip to hold it in place like the factory had but it stays in place and has been good for 2+ years and 17K miles. It worked with the T18 the truck first had and now with the NP435 transmission. Guess they use the same switch? Now because I had the wire from the frame harness to the transmission I dont know what type of plug is used at that end if you had to make a harness from the frame harness to transmission, sorry. Dave ----

So this heavy spring with the slot it would almost be like a 2 stage advance. It advance the weak spring up to the point the heavy spring play is taken up then the heavy spring kicks in. Now I / we may not see this 2 step advance if it is smooth enough right? Now on the different test readings I posted. The first test was at 16* BTDC, vacuum disconnected the way it was from the factory with who knows how many miles? The second test was after I took the dist. apart, did a good cleaning & light oil lube before putting it back together with the Mr. G weak spring. The timing was also set to 14* BTDC as the pinging was pretty bad at 16* BTDC. I think the cleaning & light oil lube made the advance greater even with timing set 2* retard from the first testing but that is just a guess. In any event I need to get the advance to start later than my first test. I will go with the blue spring, measure the old & new heavy springs and decide what spring I will use and use the R18 slot in the plate and see what happens. I also know I need to get the centrifugal advance under control before moving on to the vacuum advance dial in. Thank you guys for the help. Dave ----