FuzzFace2

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-YF-943-E1AZ-19E583-A-A-C-Compressor-Fitting-Suction-Manifold/183130267010?hash=item2aa36a1d82:g:MBUAAOSwnhpaq8DX:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-nos-oem-YF943-YF-943-suction-compressor-manifold-E1AZ19E583A-E1AZ-19E583A/262801670604?epid=139942640&hash=item3d303341cc:g:SuEAAAzyZONSwuNZ:rk:3:pf:0 used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E1AZ-19E583-A-suction-manifold-FS6-compressor-Visteon-067035-Everco-A7183-FORD/152672190493?epid=1439618784&hash=item238bf8c01d:g:rzkAAOSw~OdVeIuP:rk:5:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Ford-Manifold-Vacuum-Control-AC-Compressor-Kit-YF-943-E1AZ-19E582-A/173684996677?hash=item28706eba45:g:ebkAAOSw1uVcDoxY:rk:1:pf:0 I hate body work! It is closer to paint! I hate body work! I had no work today again so the plan was to get the hood in primer. That was the plan yesterday also but only turned on the lights and never made it back out because I hate body work! With a lot of time on a flat board air sander and by hand with a flat board we got her done and in primer. I hate body work! Being I was on a roll and not knowing the time I pulled the right rear fender off the bed, I only had 2 nuts holding it on. I had to finish sanding it to prep for primer and I got that done also. Because the left rear fender has the 2 fuel filler hoses & doors I would have to undo before I can pull the fender off and was running out of time is why it was not done. The hood has some pin holes and I think the fender did also so I need to find my glazing putty as I am not using a high build primer. Did I tell you I hate body work!? Dave ----

I would say Steve got you heading down the right path. I will not say anything more on the plug wires, it was all based off what I heard when running. Yes good job on the table. Dave ----

Been up for 22 days hope he got to NY. My wife just got back from L.I. NY for the same reason he needed to sell the truck. If I had the money I would go look at it, its about 3 hours away. I have the nose off my truck as I am using the parts truck nose. It looks to have the hard to find rear plate holder. Wonder where the stuff mounted to the fender wells is and the battery? I hate to say it but that truck may be in better shape than mine was even with out the nose. Dave ---- add on: I hinted about this truck to the wife. She started shaking, turning red and started shouting ...... something about a lawyer So I guess this one I will have to pass on. Oh part of the shouting was to sell all 3 of my AMC cars. I would sell 2 of the 3 but by the time they go the truck would be gone I would think.

I also have not heard if he went back over this as I think from what I hear from the video it is only hitting on six cly. 2 wires crossed. This would also say the cross wires because of the popping out the carb & exh. Dave ----

Back in the day if you had a leaking fuel tank and want a fast cheap fix was to pull the tank clean the outside good and fiber glass it, let it dry a few days and you were good to go. I figured if it worked on fuel takes it would work on a vacuum tank. I did not coat the whole vacuum tank just a little past the pin holes. I wanted to keep the look of a stock factory can and the glass rosin would not have done that and why it is still close to the bottomand cant be seen. It is funny that it rusted on the bottom and not have water in it and it looked to be from the inside out. I am thinking it must have been leaking before I got it as I could not get the HVAC to work right, no or low vacuum. I installed the can last night so when I run it again I will check the HVAC system to see if it is now working with the can in place. I did post some place but if someone is having trouble finding a vacuum leak to check this can for leaks also. Dave ----

I buy used Snap-On tools on eBay if they're 1/2 the new price (on https://store.snapon.com/ ) or less. For electronics, they have to be closer to 1/3 price because those aren't warranted - you have to pay for repairs. But I only buy the ones that are guaranteed by the eBay seller to be in good working order. That's where my timing light came from (even though I was working & had a regular Snap-On man at that time) years ago. It came in the original plastic case, but I don't enough room for that in my tool boxes, so it's crammed into the junk drawer: https://supermotors.net/getfile/940426/thumbnail/14bulk.jpg Thanks for the link I will check it out. My light was still in the case and with other tools in cases, sawz all also taken, is on a shelf in the work shop and above that my electric drills (maybe 4?) not in cases where all taken. What set it all off I went to get my cordless off the work bench in the garage and could not find it or the charger that I never move. Went for the corded drill and found them missing. Being I don't go in the garage for weeks at a time I don't know when they left. When I need a timing light I may also check with some of the pawn shops around here to see what they have. I am sure that's where the tools went but who knows? Dave ----

Usually between Rock Auto online, and at the local CarQuest (Which is owned by Advance Auto Parts). The one I have on the bench now I bought from CarQuest, and it is new, but does not have the RPV. I did not see the RPV on any of the other aftermarket brands online either, new or reman. However, I just went back and scanned them all again, and the only one it seems that actually comes with the RPV is the Motorcraft BRMC63 (#F4TZ2140E). I hadn't looked at this one previously because it was quite a bit more expensive than the others. All of the other typical aftermarket brands, Raybestos, AC Delco, Cardone, Centric, etc, etc, new or reman, do not include the RPV. Anyway, it's no big deal. I'll get this sorted out just fine now that I know what's going on. If I can find one at the Junkyard that isn't all corroded I'll grab it. Otherwise, I'll just order the Motorcraft MC and return the one I have. Thanks Steve. Cory, did your master have the plastic tank on it? When I went looking to see what all was needed to do this swap the pictures did not show a tank. Between the line swapping the tank not on the master I decided to stay stock for now. Dave ----

First we need to know what RPV stands for? RPV = Reduce Pressure Valve RPV = Residual Pressure Valve From what I know of doing drum / disc swapping on AMC’s there is a master for drum / drum and disc / drum brakes. The drum / drum master has valves in it on both ports, RPV = Residual Pressure Valve, that keeps a little psi in the lines to over come the spring pressure in the drums. The disc / drum master only has the valve on the drum side, RPV = Residual Pressure Valve, that keeps a little psi in the line to over come the spring pressure in the drums. Could this “adaptor” on the alum. Master be this RPV = Residual Pressure Valve to the rear drum brakes? It sounds like it if you are pulling the guts out when going disc / disc brakes but not if you are running disc / drum with the balance valve (see below). Now this has nothing to do with the portioning valve down on the frame of our older trucks. This has 2 functions. To balance the brakes front /rear (RPV = Reduce Pressure Valve?) & to set off a light when there is low psi on either front or rear of the system. Other than the light you can get an adjustable balance valve thru any of the on line speed stores and this may work better as you can “dial in” the balance your truck works best with. So what is this RPV on the ALUM. Master, what does it do? Dave ---- btw: when AMC first started installing disc brakes they put the "balance" valve at the rear on the frame rail, looks like a square coupling. They still had the pressure valve under the master on the frame rail to set off the light if the system lost psi on 1 side. You could use a drum / drum master on a disc /drum car by pulling the flare seat out of the port to the disc side of the system, remove the guts (spring & check ball) and put the flare back in.

Yes, you still have to start at 0°, so you need SOME marks. IMO, it's always easier (even though I have a good Snap-On advance timing light) to read the factory mark on the balancer at the factory time. I had a good SnapOn light also up till about 2 months ago. I had some tools grow legs and walk out and that was one of them. I would just mark TDC and the balancer and use the knob to find the numbers. Think was on the drag car I had no power for the light and the one I bought works like crap unless it is dark out. Have you checked to see if you have all the holes firing? Could pull 1 plug wire off at a time to see if they all drop the RPM the same amount. If 1 or more don't, known as a dead hole, then they are not helping the motor run. Dave ----

To do the repair I pulled the bracket off. This is after 2 glass coatings & paint sorry no before pictures. About the 11:00 is where I added the wire to fill the gap. Hole was at 7:00 This was the bottom when it was mounted in the truck. The mount was installed off from where it was. I only did the glass where the pin holes were. Chains after Evap-O Rust and painting. With the rubber bike tube installed. And yes I used a hole punch and added a hole in the middle of the cover. Dave ---- Bike tube size was 26" x 1 1/4" - 1 3/8" wide Hade enough to do 2 sets (4) of chains for under $5 Dave ----

To do the repair I pulled the bracket off. This is after 2 glass coatings & paint sorry no before pictures. About the 11:00 is where I added the wire to fill the gap. Hole was at 7:00 This was the bottom when it was mounted in the truck. The mount was installed off from where it was. I only did the glass where the pin holes were. Chains after Evap-O Rust and painting. With the rubber bike tube installed. And yes I used a hole punch and added a hole in the middle of the cover. Dave ----

Are you running 1 side of the motor open header? It just does not sound right to me like a few wires are crossed. And if it is popping out the carb & exh. that would be it. What firing order you going by? 302 / 351 or 351HO as I seen it posted they use different firing orders. I take it you don't have a dial back timing light? If you did you would not need a timing tape or all the paint marks to see on the crank. Dave ----

Correct. Actually, I was referring to the inevitable "scope-creep" of starting with such a broad topic, trying to define limits for it, and then changing your own limits to include more (like worms crawling out of the can). I'm not saying anything needs to be done differently - just noticing that it's happening. ...and: '80-91 (I think, but possibly '80-86) Body Mount Bolt Covers are stamped steel held down by 2 screws each. '92-96/7 covers are rubber-encased nylon or all-rubber plugs that pop into place, but fit the older bodies, so they're interchangeable. https://supermotors.net/getfile/930559/thumbnail/plug2.jpg '87-91 HVAC Control Knobs (black w/white pointer) fit '80-91 control levers, so are replacements for the '80-86 all-black or chromed knobs. https://supermotors.net/getfile/165445/thumbnail/radio1.jpg '80-96/7 Headlight Switch (w/o knob or mounting bracket) '80-91 Ignition Switch (and most other steering column parts; could be included in the previous steering column note) '80-96/7 Hood Hinge & Support '87-'91 Wiper Valance (pinholed) is an upgrade for the '80-86 (slotted) '80-? Sill Button (trumpet-shaped) Cap can be replaced by the later anti-theft (pencil-shaped) cap. Rare '80-?86 Bronco 3rd-Row Jump Seats are identical to '7?-8? Datsun/Nissan King Cab jump seats (even though not a Ford source, it's the same part). https://supermotors.net/getfile/515122/thumbnail/jumpseatup.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1027401/thumbnail/jumpsource.jpg BTW I noticed I made a mistake. '87-93 inside top w/s trim has 3 screws & no notch. Only '94-96/7 has 4 screws & the notch. Any one have access to Hollander parts interchange books? They were life savers back in the day. When I had them think they only went up to about 1981 and I left about 1983. I did a quick Google search of "auto interchange parts lookup" and came up with links but did not check them. Then did an Ebay search for Hollander books and came up with this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/56th-Edition-Hollander-Foreign-Domestic-Auto-Truck-Interchange-Manual-Set/361901526296?hash=item5443030d18:g:3CUAAOSwdGFYnQ3l:rk:19:pf:0 Dave ----

I hope to get pictures this weekend. Been fur kid sitting, 3 dogs & 4 cats, and a helper comes in when I am at work so only been doing little things to the truck. I picked up the bike tube for the gate chain $4.70+ tax. At 26" I should have a lot left over where I think the LMC ones where $6+ for 2 short pieces. When in Walmart for the bike tube I picked up a cheap $30 seat cover. Not what I wanted but will do for now. Dave ----

The HVAC vacuum can fiber glass coating was dry so a little 400 sanding and hit it with black paint. Did this late in the day so was not dry to install just yet. I will have to get pictures of the chains & vacuum can. Dave ----

I was thinking before I put the tube covering on the chains I would use one of my hole punches to put the hole in it. If I fold the tube over and had the punch on half the edge it would make a complete hole when installed. If I was to put a brass grommet on it may hit the body and mark it, Not good! The Evap-O-Rust dii a good job of getting the rust off. Quick scrubbing & rinse and they were not bad. The silver paint was to make them look better on a freshly painted truck. I don't want the stainless or chrome either. As for the chain noise of an old flare side driving experience for now saving the paint is top on my mind ;) Dave ----

I don't know if I would use the plastic line close to heat like a header but from tank(s) to pump I would do. To install someone posted you would heat the end of the line so it was a little soft and then push it onto the barb. When it cools it shrinks a little it will be tight, You can then put a clamp on it to be sure. If you do the metal line I have just put the rubber hose on it and never had any issues of them coming off. Now I have not tried this what if you tried to flare the line but only the 2nd part not the first? Dave ----

Never gave that a thought Thanks Dave ----

Then I'd look at new chain. The modern galvanizing is much-better than it was in the 70s. If you plan out the cut/weld location, it will be hidden inside the latch. Not plastic cables - plastic-COATED galvanized steel aircraft-type cable; the factory ones used on later trucks. I totally forgot that the latches were on the chains. You're right - cables probably won't work. They flex fine on '78-96 Broncos & ~90-up F150s (#17 in the diagram). https://supermotors.net/getfile/484835/thumbnail/tailgatelatchpickup.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/160920/thumbnail/tailgate-cables.jpg The chain is not the type you can get in any store that I have seen. It is also welded from the bolt to the hook so you would need to make cuts and re-weld or use a repair link and I don't like the look of the link. LMC does sell new chains / latch assy. for $30 and chrome for $40. They also sell 2 chain covers for $6. I am sure I can buy a bike tube for less than that and have enough to do more than 2 chains. I have spent way too much on this project and need to cut back on the $$ where I can. I had the chain assy. in Evap-O-Rust over night. I pulled them out a little bit ago, rinsed off and they look pretty good. I hit them with silver Rustoleum spray paint and they look good enough to me. I may even have a tube some place but if not will pick one up to cover the chains. Dave ----

Have you considered galvanizing spray instead of paint? I've used Rustoleum's cold spray on a few things, but it seems to rub off (not necessarily THROUGH to the metal below) very easily. When I was an industrial electrician's apprentice, we used a lot of hot galvanizing spray immediately after torching or welding, but it's not "cosmetically-appealing". I'm not sure anything you can apply at home will stand up to the abrasion that those chains endure. That makes the chains' color seem moot. Have you considered the later plastic-covered cables? I just want the chains & latch to look good when I first get the truck on the road. It would be nice if the looked good over time but its a truck and will be used as one. They just have to look better than this! As for plastic cables I really don't see how you could use them and the latch with out some goofy looking cable clamps. I also don't know how well they would flex / fold when the gate is closed & latched. I think paint and bike tube will work good and look good too. Besides I am sure I got the paint, the tube is a few bucks and it looks factory stock. Dave ----

Gary, On the 2nd page of my post on the fan shroud I have what I used for parts, what had to be done to make them fit and it also had the AC condenser and what was needed to fit the only part we can get for our truck over the counter. Something like that is what you are looking for? Dave ----

Yesterday I got up early to work on the truck and never made it out to the garage but I looked up parts for the AC. I want to run the Sanden FS6 compressor used on the 83 up trucks. I found you can get hoses to fit the compressor and can get the compressor but ...... Always a but ..... the compressor does not come with hose manifolds. I spent a few hours with the parts CD and found the part numbers suction E1AZ 19E583-A discharge E1AZ 19E582-A Think they come with the bolts & gaskets. I got up early to work on the truck and this time made it out to the garage. I finished stripping the paint & rust off the tail gate using a angle die grinder and a bunch of Roloc discs. Once clean I did a little hammer & dolly work where I could. Some of the gate is 2 panels thick or the rolled top & bottom so I left the dents in them as they are not that bad. I then treated the gate to a spraying of Oxy-gone acid and a green sanding pad to work it in. Used a sponge and water to wipe the acid off and shop air to dry as it was flash rusting. Hit the gate and the rear bed roll pan, body work was done a long time ago, with a degreaser before priming as I did not want the gate to rust. I also hit the gate hinges with sand paper and a shot of primer. To get the gate out of the way I mounted it back on the truck. This was easy by myself, the gate was hanging from the rafters with 2 straps so I slid 1 end of the gate on a hinge then got the other side up in place and bolted that hinge into place. I think this way may also work for mounting the hood by myself when the time comes. Before I installed the tail gate I pulled the chains and started soaking them in Evap-O-Rust. Once I am happy with them I think they will need a coat of silver paint to look good. My brother when here for Christmas said to use bike tire tube to cover the chain to keep it from hurting the bed body so will have to pick up a tube one day. The last thing I did was removed the brackets off the rear bumper as I need to weld up some holes the PO's put in to mount the plate in a few different places and they had a heavy channel beam to reinforce for a bumper hitch the truck had. I mounted the brackets to the truck so I would not loose them but they will need to be pulled, cleaned and painted before a bumper can be installed. Just have the hood that I hope has the last coat of filler on it, a small dent in a fender to fix and the 2 rear fenders to finish prepping for primer and I think it should be ready for paint! Dave ----

"Sanden" No wonder why I could not find any thing for it JK don't know why I got it wrong? Dave ----

Maybe spend a few bucks on an IR thermometer. You take all the fun out of it Could also use water and crayon but you would have go find them & the IR therm. Dave ----

I cant answer that question but if there is a junk yard with a 94 in it measure it and see how it mounts that do the same to yours. Now I am going to say if it does "bolt in" I cant see it working any better than what you have now. I say this because to cool that big old cave takes a lot of BTU's. That is why they put rear HVAC systems in larger SUV's and vans. Even my 02 Dodge Durango has a rear system and when not working as it should I can tell, both heat & AC. Dave ---- I re-checked Rock Auto for the hoses and as Jonathan found if you go for the 83- truck they list all the hoses that fit the FS6 compressor, unlike the 80-82 York compressor hoses they only have 1 of. I did a little more looking into the 83-86 FS6 (sedan) compressor and what I found is unless you get a junk yard one, not recommended, they don't come with the suction or discharge manifolds. That is the little part the hose screws to that is bolted to the compressor. I spent a few hours with the truck parts CD's to try and find the part numbers and think they are: suction E1AZ 19E583-A discharge E1AZ 19E582-A Think they came with the bolts & gaskets. I will see where I can get them just in case they don't come with the compressor. Dave ----