85lebaront2

I think it tapped in, but not super tightly, then I held the hex on the plug body and tightened the acorn nut. BTW, you haven't lived until you've had a rubber one blow out of a 390 and dump all the coolant on the shop floor.

Sounds great!

You are doing some very nice work on it! I am just glad I was able to help you with it.

Rene' that 3 wire connector goes to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor which was originally in the area behind your battery, near the solenoid valve collection. In 1987 Ford moved it to the top of the AC casing, in towards the wiper motor. The yellow pair is part of the fuel pump(s) power circuit, if you look at the fuel delivery part of the 1986 EVTM on the site you should be able to find it. I did find a later harness with the brown and green relay sockets, but I would just change to the standard Bosch cube relays as they are much easier to find both in Europe and here.

I have used them before, I believe on a 390 FE engine, They have a slightly coned inner dish that when the nut is tightened flattens to spread and secure the copper portion.

Yes it is, and is what Chrysler used. I have some nice hydraulic sealer that I bought when working on Mary's Cousin's G30 van.

Now you guys know why I build my own transmissions.

Well, they may have been an option. Darth as delivered was an F350 XL and had intermittent wipers. The parts truck was a 1990 F250 XLT and also had intermittent wipers. To convert, switch and a governor box from a truck with intermittent wipers are needed, other than adding a ground it is plug and play.

Yes it is, I had one on the original and on one of our minivans. Finally had some halfway decent weather today and was able to do some work on the 2.5L hybrid head. I started with the hole for the oil feed from the left rear head bolt to the #6 intake cam bearing cap transfer slot. I had previously drilled the passage through to the left front head bolt hole so it could be fed from the 2.5L oil passage. I drilled it out so I could get a 1/8 NPT tap into the passage in order to plug it and prevent oil from pressurizing the area the 2.4L feed is in. I tapped the cross passage for 1/8 NPT and installed a hex socket plug. I then enlarged the outside hole to 3/8 NPT and tapped it so the area will be closed off. Next I made a template for the Tempo water pump and Chrysler 2.5L water entrance hole and drew up the layout on a piece of 1/2" 6061 aluminum. Plan is to use the 3 M8 X 1.25 block holes and one of the M10 X 1.5 holes for the Alternator/AC compressor mount to attach a plate to the block, then use the 3 M8 X 1.25 fasteners the Tempo water pump has to mount it to the plate. Based on the measurements I made today, it looks like if I use either reduced head size or socket head M8 X 1.25 screws into the 2.5L block they will not interfere with the Tempo water pump flange and 3rd bolt.

Gary, probably not the axles, but the hub and drum assemblies. Not an impossible scenario if they were off for previous work that involved possibly turning the drums. If someone wasn't aware of the difference, they could easily have been installed on the wrong side. I well remember the Chrysler products with wheel bolts that were right and left hand thread (also our Packard). Both of these had the optional Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels.

You need what happened to me. A friend left a Coats 10-10 tire machine on my driveway in Newport News and said if he didn't come back in a year it was mine to keep. It has the wire wheel adapters along with a few other items I also acquired is a wheel balancer. It's issue was a bad sensor on a circuit board and the drive system pivot was rusted slightly so it wouldn't spin up properly.

He's between a rock and a hard place with that engine and emission testing. I would rather try to get a hot cammed eye burning exhaust small block Chevy through. If he opens the screws he will be richer. One thought, fresh plugs gapped a bit wide, oil change, new PCV valve and set it to factory mixture. This is what some of my friends in California do before their tests. A wider plug gap will fire a leaner mixture reliably.

So the problem you are now having is that the idle isn't smooth but it is idling best with the screws 1 1/2 turns out? Right? I found years ago that the 351M and 400 engines were a problem, Ford actually got fined over them by the EPA. In order to idle smoothly the mixture has to be quite rich. For those of us who did not have emission inspections, opening up the idle mixture tubes in the cluster worked wonders.

Very nice! Should be a huge improvement on the wiring.

Probably how they get better fuel economy. Best economy is around 16:1 AFR, normal O2 sensors can't read that level accurately. I am not going to be sending the manuals this trip, Prashant didn't get his act together and is still screwing with his truck now. He was supposed to be here Wednesday, arrived mid Thursday. Today he was going to be here early with Elizabeth, but didn't show up till early afternoon, then was not happy when I told him no on the MAF/SEFI conversion as there wasn't time to do everything. I did locate a 1996 F150 dash harness though, but it's in Newport News, and I will have to go pull it. That will give us the in-cab OBD-II wiring.

Interesting sir. I downloaded FORscan trial and was impressed enough to go ahead and purchase a license. I use it on the two Flexes as the 09 isn't too bad on my Solus Pro, but the 11 is new enough I only have minimal capabilities. With FORscan I have everything available and used it the other day to clear an O2 sensor code after replacing them on the 11 Flex. BTW, those O2 sensors are interesting, 6 wires, and looking at the wiring diagrams, they appear to be a dual band sensor, narrow and wide. I wonder if Core Tuning has played with any of them.

The problem with the king pin axles is there is no camber adjustment provision other than bending the beams. If it is way positive, I would check two things, the actual ride height and the inner pivots for the I-beams. Same if it is way negative, except you can add spacers or replace the springs.

Toe can be done with a pretty simple rig. First something to scribe a line in the tread while spinning the wheel. Set the truck back on the ground, move it back then forward for the suspension to equalize. Use a couple of cheap squares that will reach halfway or a little more up the tires, a 2X4 and two C-clamps to determine the difference front to back of the tires. I aligned or BSA camp 1987 F250 with twin traction beams using this for toe-in and two blocks we trued on a shaper + a level for setting camber (LF front was cambered in badly at the top, eccentric bushing was 180° out.

A couple of items, first be sure he checks ride height at both ends as the caster varies with ride height at both front and rear. Second be sure your radius arm bushings are in good shape as they also affect caster. Camber varies with front ride height, rear doesn't have much effect on it.

I'm into the harness-pulling-and-checking project, it's going really well. I've got a big mess on my hands but it's been educational to pull everything apart, clean it, fix it, and put it back together. It's much less complicated than I thought. I've got some moulded connectors that have wire breaks so close to the moulded base that soldering it back together is going to be a very fragile fix. My gut tells me that replacing the connector on both sides with something new/modern is going to be far less effort than junkyard diving for a replacement. Any experience with that? Any gotchas that I'm not thinking through that could bite me? I found a source for the DS-II connectors, but many of the others, not as easy. Ford went through several iterations of weatherproofing connectors. Early attempts were to simply fill the connector with a type of grease, which, unfortunately hardens with age and dries out. Next were the molded plug/socket pairs again with a grease to exclude water. I updated all the harnesses on my 1986 F350 to the 90s style, sealed outside connectors that use O-rings or gaskets and rubber plugs with only the needed holes for wires.

Up until the OBD-II systems the O2 sensor heater was always on (My wideband monitor in the exhaust is a Bosch unit and it is always on). Both are powered from an ignition switched source. I do know on the OBD-II systems, the computer monitors the current draw to be sure the heater is working. I currently have a wiring code on my wife's 2011 Ford Flex on the bank 2, sensor 1 that shows up after an extended drive and since the OBD-II systems do not auto-clear a code until a certain number of no code starts, it will stay there.

What I was telling people with 4.9L, 5.0L and 351W engines with automatics, use a 1990 Lincoln Town Car for reference, it is a 5.0L automatic. Some of us have been way ahead of the curve on these. When the one on Darth died, I just went to Pasco here in Exmore and got one for a late 460 auto, in stock.

That sure looks like it.

On a 1985, I believe it is an in-line plug near the distributor, but late in the year might have had the jumper plug. Whichever it has, warm it up, shut it off and disconnect the wire or plug, restart and check the timing. There is a caution regarding starting using the key rather than a start jumper switch as the computer needs the start signal. If the sticker is still on the radiator front panel, it should show it.

Same issue I am having with some items, like the Chrysler tuning and diagnostic software. It either requires a Windows laptop or an Android phone. The Windows laptop isn't a problem, but the Android phone is. Mary had a Samsung Galaxy when we first met, compounded by being on Verizon.