85lebaront2

Thank you for confirming this. I found a few of these cast aluminum "bisexual" head mounts on Ebay, and I assumed the two different threaded holes were for the 302-351 height difference, but I did not find any confirmation of such until you replied. There is this one kit on Ebay listed specifically for a 1973 Mustang w/302: https://www.ebay.com/itm/70-73-FORD-MUSTANG-TORINO-ALTERNATOR-BRACKETS-D0OE-10156-A-D3AE-10145-CA-302/122845350805?epid=1123047420&hash=item1c9a274b95:g:a0wAAOSwsBtaJi9C&vxp=mtr Is it fairly safe to assume that these parts would fit my 1984 302, and my alternator as well? I didn't want to pay $100 + shipping for these parts, but I'm probably not going to have a choice if I want them. Some of them are available individually on Ebay, but the combined costs on buying them all separately wouldn't make much sense. I guess I'd rather find a dirty/rusty set for cheaper that I can sand blast and paint myself;). Happy New Year! Maybe someone on either here or FTE might have something. I can also ask my friend in Virginia Beach what he might have or find at the Pick-n-Pull there. He recently acquired a powertrain from a 1978 or 79 T-bird and it is a 302 engine.

You asked for it, therefore you will get it. Be careful what you ask for, you may get it.

I'm sure it can without a problem, however, it gives you more options on an EEC-V box if it doesn't need to control an E4OD.

That was Darth when I was going to use an EEC-IV and the TwEECer is one of the ways you "adjust" them. On the FPR, I am not sure doing that would necessarily be a good idea, the EEC commands the relay then looks for the response of the relay closing. It might continually set a code for the pump relay. On the van harness, the normal routing is to the front of the van near the 5.0 and 5.8L throttle body area. Since you are going to have to modify the harness anyway, turning it around so the connection is near the firewall. The one concern will be making sure it won't hit the EGR tube where it comes up over the valve cover area.

The 1985.5-86 EEC will not work, the bracket will as the EEC cases are the same size externally, just different connectors. EEC locations, 1982-84? under the driver's seat 1985-86 right side of the steering column between the radio and cruise control amplifier 1987-1991 recess in the driver's side air box (huck) 1992-96/7 next to driver's side air box behind the column support casting.

Ford EECs are not sealed, at least not the older ones. On Dad's, I wouldn't be super concerned, I don't anticipate that one being much of an off-road vehicle ever, other than parking lots and shows. Big Blue, if you are worried about overlanding, the stock 1985.5-1986 location is up beside the steering column and since you are going to have to build a harness anyway it would solve a few things. (a) OBD-II port, mount it near the EEC. (b) Relays, power and fuel pump, again, in the 1985.5-1986 location, just use a dual socket Bosch pattern instead of the early relays. © Engine to EEC/Chassis connection, the 1985.5-1986 trucks have an oval hole in the firewall (seen here) that could be used and a 42 pin engine harness connector and bracket from a 94-96 E-series used.

One of the problems I had already discovered was needing to do something about the damaged tube on the left rear hub. It was repaired by old fashioned methods, my NNS group leader had started as an apprentice millwright and he gave me a good plan of action. In order to repair it, I first had to get the damaged inner bearing off the tube. Since it was no good, I split the retainer for the rollers and removed them, many of which were pretty bad. I then used a 1/16" abrasive cutting disc and an air grinder to carefully cut an angled notch in the inner race until I could crack it with a cold chisel. At this point, with it wedged slightly open I was able to get it off. The bearings on the full floating Sterling 10.25" rear are intended to be a snug fit on the tube, depending on that and preload to keep them there. When the bearing seized at 60 mph on I-64, it actually stopped the left rear wheels briefly, then spun on the tube with a shower of sparks. The tube where the bearing sits was not pretty. With a new bearing in hand, I was working with hand tools, large draw files, some good sized sharpening stones and lots of coarse and finer emery paper starting with some 80 grit. It took about 4 days of working in the evening to get where the bearing would go on, then some high spot dye to see where it needed some more dressing for as even a contact as I could get. The alternatives were, another axle housing or have someone come and retube that end. After that was done and the seal surface polished I could reassemble everything. I ended up having to replace the left seal every year before inspection as it would leak. After I purchased Big Ugly for parts, I found it had a 3.55 limited slip rear, but, referring back to the first post, it was too narrow for the dual rear wheels. I called a few places looking for just a used axle housing with no luck. I finally found one at Pete's, a complete 4.10 open gear one that had been wet. After I stripped Big Ugly, I had a junkyard pick up the remaining frame and body parts and let me come pick up the axle later. By this time I had the bed off so the back of the frame was open and made a perfect work stand. I ordered a shim kit for the 10.25" axle, hub seals etc. and placed both the axles on the frame. Drained the oil by removing the covers and inspected what I had. The axle from Pete's had bad rust and pitting on the gears, but the actual housing was perfect, it had sat with the pinion up and the water sat away from even the bearings. First problem was getting the yokes off the two axles, the one from Big Ugly came off easily, the one from Pete's I wasn't sure it was going to come off, it sat with the nut on just enough to keep things from flying and my biggest puller as tight as I could get it with lots of penetrating oil for two days before it finally moved. After disassembling both axles and cleaning everything, carefully keeping bearing pairs together it was time to start fitting the innards of the 1990 axle into the dual rear wheel housing, apparently a 1993 one. I removed the pinion bearing races from both axles, and installed the races from the 1990 into the 1993 housing. Since I had a new pinion nut, I took an old one and a large tap and cleared the prevailing torque "squeezes" from it. I installed the pinion, no crush sleeve and outer bearing, slid the 1990 yoke on and snugged the nut to eliminate any play. I assembled the carrier and ring gear, shimmed it according to the procedure (backlash then preload) and with fingers crossed, put high spot dye on the ring gear and started running a pattern, both drive and coast and amazingly enough they were both near perfect. My then 14 yo "granddaughter" was helping so I showed her what I was doing and the pictures in the service manual. Asked her what she thought by looking at the pattern and the pictures. Her opinion after looking at both was like mine, it was an almost perfect center on both side of both gears. I removed the carrier assembly and the shims used and carefully put them aside. I removed the yoke and outer pinion bearing, slid the crush sleeve in and put the outer bearing and yoke on. I started slowly collapsing the crush sleeve until I had almost no play in the bearings and went and got my in-lb beam torque wrench. I gradually collapsed the sleeve until I had the proper no seal preload for used bearings, then repeated the process after installing and lubing the seal to verify I was correct. This was done with a new self locking pinion nut. After that I reinstalled the carrier assembly and made sure everything was torqued. Wiped down the sealing surface and installed the better of the two covers with black RTV sealer, stuck the ABS pickup in it's hole and left both axles sitting on the frame.

Let me chime in on this one. For a number of Years Ford built accessory mounting brackets for the Windsor engines (211-351W) with dual bolt patterns to allow them to fit either the 302 or 351W application. One of the ways this was done was with a cast aluminum oval shaped bracket that the long alternator pivot bolt screwed into. It was asymmetric and was installed with the hole for the alternator bolt up for a 302 and down for a 351. This kept the relationship of the alternator to crank and water pump pulleys constant and required one standard stamped front mount for both engines. Same was done for the power steering pump, and at one point the A/C compressor lower mount had a dual set of holes. Piece 10A336 is one of those "bisexual" brackets. With the exception of the A/C compressor mount the brackets were cast aluminum and fairly small. I would surmise that the need for air pumps required the redesign of these and cast iron, while heavy and somewhat brittle is strong and easy to machine. If you have any doubt, look at the alternator/air pump mount on Big Blue vs the one on the huck.

I know Gary, I had a 1977 F150, the one I put a 390 in (I didn't want a 400 after dealing with my neighbor's 77 F250 with a 351M) 390 was a Camper Special engine, little bit higher lift cam, Holley 4 barrel (a special model with a strange power valve setup) and a different distributor curve. 3.25 gear and a C6, my design dual exhaust system, thing would haul buggy and get 16 mpg highway. I had a 1975-79 460 radiator in it and added the A/C system. I had a Wolverine 11' slide in camper which it handled perfectly.

I just run it after filling it to make up what was lost (I remove the hoses at the heater and raise them up so I only lose a little) It takes longer in cold weather because the thermostat opens then immediately recloses. When I feel it is getting close to opening I rev the engine a bit for a minute or so to move coolant through everywhere. I usually end up adding about a quart more coolant in the radiator. Now I need to go to AutoZone with the bad one and get a replacement for the next time.

Good old Corvair valve cover hold downs! Work great on brand C engines. I have seen small ones on some Fords, notably the 2.8, 2.9 3.0 and 4.0 European derived V6s.

Since the temperature here finally climbed out of the low 30s I swapped the heater core for the nearly new one from the 1995 F450. I think it took longer to "burp" that system than it did to change the core.

Exactly why I did it.

Gary, check Black Hat Auction on eBay, store is lorieandjeff they are where I get a lot of my manuals, that is where the 1996 EVTM came from, the 1986 I bought new from Helm inc. when I bought Darth in 1994.

That's what Gary keeps saying. I owned a carburetor and ignition shop in Newport News VA for a number of years and learned a whole lot between manuals, training from Holley etc. The VV (non-feedback) is just another variation of the old British SU (Skinner Union) carburetor. the concept being a consistent vacuum across the jet and mixture control based on how much air is passing through the opening, more air = further opening which pulls the mixture needle further out of the jet. Very simple, an SU has two moving parts, the throttle and the piston with the metering needle attached.

On distributor curves, the mechanical advance is based on the best power under load without detonation, this basic idea goes way back as far as the moveable advance system whether it was a level on the steering column or a centrifugal advance mechanism. The Windsor V8s can take 36-38° total mechanical advance at around 5000 rpm, mechanical advance is 2 stage, a quick initial, up to around 3000 rpm for a street engine advance of 28-32°, the remainder coming in slowly to max rpm. The vacuum advance came later as an economy measure and it makes up the difference between under load and light load conditions. There are two main styles, a vacuum brake system used by Ford on the flathead V8s and 6s with the front of the cam distributor and used by Mallory on their street distributors for years. The second is a vacuum can that has a diaphragm attached to a rod which moves the breaker plate (except on the old Chevy in-line 6, on those the whole distributor moves) this system has either an adjustment screw in side the can, or on older Fords a removable cap under which was a spring, shims and a hollow stop tube inside the spring. These are pretty straight forward, at X inches of vacuum you get Y degrees of advance. What happens with the EGR is not that you can get more advance, it dilutes the mixture enough that the vacuum advance does not cause detonation. A specific example, the mid 80s Oldsmobile built 307 ci V8, if the EGR wasn't opening, you would get a light throttle spark knock at roughly 35-40 mph in 4th gear lockup, a bit more throttle and it would vanish when the computer added fuel by decreasing the down time on the metering rods on the E4ME primaries. Now, to further confuse everyone, for a long time, Ford used Holley distributors, with no mechanical advance, only vacuum, called a Loadamatic distributor These had a 2 stage set of springs on the breaker plate, one very light one for the venturii signal, the other a heavier one for the throttle port signal. Depending on the year and application many had a spark control valve on the side of the distributor. This blocked the throttle port so that the very weak venturii signal didn't leak, when the throttle signal was there the valve moved in under the higher vacuum to allow it to the distributor diaphragm to receive the full vacuum. Some carburetors simply used a small check ball in the throttle passage. Because this system ran at maximum advance at cruise conditions, Ford found that it was necessary on some applications to use a second diaphragm on the back of the main one connected directly to manifold vacuum to quickly retard the main system under sudden WOT conditions. A quick way to recognize these systems, the diaphragm "can" is very flat on these as there are no springs inside it. The next piece came with the emission systems, 1966 in California, and 1968 nationwide. One of the problems with many engines was idle emissions, unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide (CO) also oxides of nitrogen. It was found that if the carburetor idle circuits were at the transfer slot that the idle could be set lean enough in the jetting that the engine could run cleaner. In order to do this, the initial timing needed to be reduced. The other solution was air injection. Each of the big three used a different approach, Ford used two systems, IMCO for IMproved COmbustion and Thermactor or air injection. Both systems used a lazier distributor curve and in some applications a lower initial (static) timing. It also was the death knell for the Loadamatic distributor as it's advance would vary with altitude and to some degree barometric pressure differences. The leaner low speed mixtures also would cause the Loadamatic equipped engines to misfire at low speed cruise due to the advance being fully in. I hope this isn't too confusing, but hopefully it will help understand how the spark advance systems relate to other systems. All have to work together in harmony for best power and economy.

FWIW, the 1980-86 radios are shaft mount and probably a one and one half DIN height. The 1992-96/7 radios are a side clip mount and are a one DIN height. In order to use most aftermarket radios in a 1980-86 you need an adapter, for the 1992-96/7 the slide in mount most come with fits right in. Wiring, the 1980-86 models used pigtails on the radio with plugs that do not in any way match the newer system, for one thing, the 85 has a common ground speaker system, the 94 will have individual + and - leads. I have a set of the later radio plugs I cut form a harness for someone who them changed his mind if you need them.

You also have an 81 and 86 if I recall.

Gary, I was wrong, I thought the later trucks were still like the 77 I had. On that one the markers blinked in opposition with the lights on. I suspect you could probably effect that by moving the ground from the black wire to the turn signal feed on the side you are working on. The convertible has them that way so they blink either with or in opposition to the signals.

Yes, look at the ones off the huck.