85lebaront2

Do you mean that Ford didn't offer them in the Bullnose era? I've seen 4WD dual rear wheel F350's before. Maybe not Bullnoses, but for sure in the 1987-1996 trucks. (And I'm talking cab/chassis trucks...I can't say for certain that I've ever seen one with a pickup bed on it). The DRW trucks could be ordered cab and chassis as a 4WD, but the 1985 up bed will not fit due to the difference in the rear axle. Cab and chassis models still used the Dana rear axle, pickups got the Ford 10.25". On the Dana, the centerline of the duals is directly behind the center of the front wheels, on the Ford, the inner wheel is directly behind the front wheel. This gives a wider track for the rear, and allows for a standardized bed floor and inner panels for all 8' beds. This followed through from 1985-1997 DRW trucks.

Yes, great, saves going back to the index each time. Really makes it easier to go through.

I don't doubt it. But it would be simpler, cheaper, & more-reliable to just direct-wire the (12V) choke heater to a key-switched or engine-running-only 12V circuit. If you want to do that, use a Chrysler carbureted 2.2L Choke switch, they are a NO oil pressure switch with two terminals, no need for a relay, just fuse it.

I haven't seen the previous/next buttons, have you started a new section for EVTMs? The only ones I see are 1981 - 1986. If it will be too complicated to create the links I understand that.

I agree with that. One of the issues, Ford changed the way the EVTMs are organized between 1980 and 1986, and again after that. That said, what works perfectly for a 1981 EVTM may not work as well for a 1986 EVTM, and using the 1986 as an example, the fuel pump circuits are spread out in several places depending on the engine and type pumps. Links where the book refers you to a different section or maybe a note at the beginning of a section that section xx also contains information. I have actually put stick on tabs when working on something so I can go back and forth between different sections.

I guess that puts me in my third year of membership.

What engine is in it? I guess I am fortunate Ford didn't offer 4WD dual rear wheel trucks, Darth takes enough room to turn around. Not bad looking BTW.

He actually sprayed starting fluid in it, still nothing. The reason I said timing chain, I have seen them jump just far enough it won't run but not far enough to backfire. I have seen them where you could advance the distributor far enough it would start, but not run very well.

He verified fuel and spark, even changed the DS-II box. I suggested he check the timing chain be pulling #1 plug and bumping it until he felt pressure, then turning it with a socket and ratchet until he was on TDC, then remove the cap and see where the rotor is pointing. Since it was raining it's tail off in Eastern KY when we talked this morning he wasn't going to be able to check further and I needed to go play french yard games, mow-z-lawn.

I see you followed my suggestion. Did you ever check timing chain for jumping?

Once I can get back over to Newport News and into the trunk of my Lincoln Continental Donnie Medlin is storing for me, I believe there is an extra 3G from a 3.8L Taurus in it. My replacement 2G went on Matt's 86 years ago.

Yes, seems once he got it sorted out it runs great. Fiveology sells kits but I essentially built my system using almost all stock Ford parts with the exception of the intake system, I had to fabricate an intake system since the factory MAF 460s are only slightly more common then hen's teeth. I started with a 1995 Lincoln Continental MAF as it is almost exactly the same as the 460 one, same physical size and mounting. I used a 5.0/5.8L MAF air filter and modified it to attach the 90 mm MAF to it, I used a pair of 4" expansion hoses for the connection to the wye going into the throttle body. Since the 460 throttle body is (a) larger than the 5.0/5.8L throttle bodies and (b) horizontal and © located roughly over the center of the engine. I had to get from the air filter to the throttle body over the air conditioning compressor. I fabricated an elbow from a piece of PVC pipe elbow and a piece of 4" thin wall conduit, connected the IAC hose and crankcase closure hose to the side of the conduit. I used another length of conduit from the air filter to the air inlet to the engine using the two silicone bellows so the engine motion wouldn't break anything. I updated it to a closer to stock system and finally managed to obtain a factory 460 MAF intake. One thing very important, ALL air going into the engine must pass through the MAF, even the PCV closure hose has to connect behind it. First air intake design:

I've sort of lost the context of this branch, but I think it was about getting a JY engine, in which case it would be accessible. They knew those things when they designed the system & built the truck - that's how it can work right. So if you don't change anything - just repair/maintain it - it'll run like-new. "Need" is a strong word. My '95 ran perfectly for many years without any speed input. Only those with an electronic automatic (E4OD/4R70W) need a VSS; and then, only if the trans is actually connected to the EEC. If you swap transmissions, the EEC will work fine without a VSS. 1992 '1993 1/2 on the 5.0L; '94 on the other smallblocks. https://supermotors.net/getfile/833750/thumbnail/distributor9296.jpg Regardless where they are, they should be converted to the later style relays (Bosch/ISO/Tyco). https://supermotors.net/getfile/507187/thumbnail/relays1.jpg The TFI change has to do more with the year of the EEC he uses, just like (FYI) the snubbing diodes for the electronic transmissions. The were moved from inside the transmission to internal on the EEC in 1995. Relays, anything underhood needs a weatherproof connector, or be enclosed like the later PDCs are. If you don't eventually the terminals and their sockets will corrode. A good source is either the GM Bosch style with a shroud or a box from a later truck will work.

Steve, I am not positive on the casting number location on the Windsor heads, if you can find where the casting number is, hopefully at worst case under the valve covers then you will be one step ahead. You will need to add a speed sensor at the transmission and wire it in as the later EECs (1987 on) need a speed input to function correctly. While you are doing the changes, I would suggest relocation the TFI module to the left inner fender where Ford moved it in 1994. On the TFI, depending on what year EEC you end up with, the TFI module changed internal and external circuitry in 1995. If you decide to stay with the MAP sensor, 1985.5 and 1986 are different that the later ones, don't know the exact difference, but the PN changed. EGR control system changed in 1987 also, from 2 solenoids to one, I think you have already looked at the pinouts, moving the wires is a bit of a pain but possible. I would leave the EEC and power relay where they are, they are pretty well protected there. Good luck with it!

I used the donor engine's original air filter in its original location, relative to the engine (because the intake hoses are nearly rigid, so that's where it has to be to fit). That filter bracket goes where the older coolant/washer tank was, so I couldn't keep that old tank (or the old tool box or aux.batt. tray). And the new filter bracket is built to hold the new tank, which I also got, so I just swapped it all at the same time. I don't think it's enough to make a difference, but don't remember trying on the only 5.0L swap I've done. But you could still reach in from the front, and then from the back. I don't think you can reach in from the back with the engine in the truck, especially not if it's air conditioned.

Yes, small funnel or turkey baster come to mind.

Other than the unsprung mass of the front axle, Darth is the same nose heavy way, I just have a 168" wheelbase and front coil springs so he rides better.

I suspect that that is a Powerstroke of some version since the fan is normal, not reverse rotation. That would also carry a much bigger radiator and an intercooler.

Gary, when I had my 1958 F100, I put a front mounted spare tire carrier, but, the 58 had a 6' bed and I never had the bed mount for it. I never had any problems with overheating, but, the radiator on the 58 was bigger than the 80-96/7 trucks have other than the Diesels.

Gary, in my case it is the one that came with the 1990 parts truck, I just put the entire "doghouse" from the 1990 on Darth. One reason I can think of, try adding coolant to the older reservoirs.

Gary, here is the way Darth's coolant recovery/washer fluid reservoir sits:

I haven't actually messed with an Explorer 5.0L, but I was able to get my big hands under the nearly-identical 5.8L plenum to disconnect the injectors. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1133869/thumbnail/wrgeng.jpg Here, you can see all the way through that channel: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1133900/thumbnail/20180522_192136.jpg I didn't have much trouble fitting the '87-95 MAP air filter to my '83. https://supermotors.net/getfile/144063/thumbnail/engine-bay.jpg The '94-96 MAF filter fits identically. https://supermotors.net/getfile/825935/thumbnail/airfilters.jpg I was actually talking about keeping the original stock MAP system. It wasn't changed (other than EEC programming) through '95 (optionally). But I think the 5.0Ls from Explorers are built with truck cams - not Mustang/Mk.VIII cams. First, 5.8 L is taller and wider than the 5.0 L, therefore more room between the valve covers, second, 5.0 L EGR tube (easily broken) comes out of the center of the intake (where the carbureted crossover would be) so it is not possible to reach all the way through. Air filter, it may surprise you to know how much research I did before doing my EFI conversion on my 1986 460. First thing I ran into was computers, MAF 460s are extremely rare, one fellow actually called the computer for them a Unicorn, I replied be posting a picture of an actual FEZ3 EEC-V box I have. If you have a manual transmission, or a C6, you can adapt a 5.0 L or 5.8 L MAF EEC to it, but you need some sort of piggyback tuner, such as a Moates quarter-horse or TwEECer to change the firing order, cyl. volume and injector size. If, as I planned on, you are using an E4OD, you have to have an EEC that will control it. The 4R70/75W EECs are not interchangeable with the E4OD ones. There are 5.0 L EECs that will work, primarily Bronco ones. I had obtained a WAY1 EEC and wiring when I first started the evolution. Plan changed when I spent over 6 months trying to find some information on setting up the shift points on the E4OD, I didn't really want to be buzzing a 460 up like a 302, second I wanted to stay in lockup on the converter as much as possible. E4OD converters are really bad about heat generation. Since my front sheet metal was pretty bad due to the previous owner parking by feel, and I had bought a 1990 F250 parts truck (the owner delivered it to my house for $845.00), I planned on just swapping the front doghouse. I had obtained a couple of extra front harnesses and originally was going to use the 1987-1991 style harness system. This also solved the air filter issue. While I was working on the plan, I found a 1992 F150 and was able to get the front harness from it, I later got a 1995 dash from pick and pull, went back the next day and got the harness I had removed and left. The primary reason I went that way was the greatly improved power distribution that started in 1992. After starting to fit the 1990 harness, and finding that if I wanted to go SEFI there were not enough pins available in the 4 X 8 pin body to engine connections. At this point I was still planning on using the WAY1 EEC and a TwEECer I had bought, after posting on EEC Tuner.org, I was contacted by Adam Marrer, POPS Racing about using an EEC-V. These do not need a piggyback tuner as they are reflashable. He sold me a package that included a 1996 5.8 L EEC-V since they use the E4OD, software, Mongoose Pro pass through cable and tech support. I built a bench flash rig and using a small 12V battery as a buffer and a trickle charger, we did a hands on tutorial. I am still refining the program, the EVAP system changed from a CANP system to a VMV system, and there was a glitch in the code that makes the EEC think there is a wiring issue. It seems corrected now. I have a complete 1996 interior in Darth except for Lincoln Continental bucket seats, I also switched rear doors so I have complete 4 door power windows and locks. Now I need to find a lightning speedometer, as Darth has been capable for years of running well past 85 mph.

Why, exactly? Simply swapping to MAF probably won't make enough difference to justify the cost & effort, or even to actually notice. MAF was more for emissions compliance than performance, and there are probably as many performance gains available for a MAP as a MAF (if that's what you're after). My advice, based on personal experience a few times (with other vehicles/engines) is: buy the newest wreck with the engine & management system you want, and drop the whole mess (as complete as possible, including ALL the emissions controls) into your truck as a full factory system. Then drive the hell out of it! It'll run better, last longer, and be easier/cheaper to maintain than any mixture of old/new factory/aftermarket that you might come up with. The best donor for a 5.0L is the ~02 Explorer/Mountaineer, which is MAF EDIS OBD-II; and they're typically DIRT-cheap (moreso right after cash-for-clunkers, but even now). I compiled this diagram from all the '92-96 EVTMs, and several editions of Haynes: https://supermotors.net/getfile/892730/thumbnail/eecconnectors.jpg Unfortunately, I know it's still not complete. But what it shows is correct. I will second Steve83's comments, the 1985.5-1986 heads are some of the worst ever installed on the small Windsor (221-302) engines, the Explorer 5.0L engines got the GT40 heads for the first few years then went to GT40P heads. They breath a lot better, but, even your 1986 cast iron exhaust manifolds are better than the original "headers" for the Explorer, due to chassis constraints they have several "choke points" where they had to squeeze past other items. One thing, at the absolute minimum, you are going to have to remove the upper plenum just to get at the engine portion of the EFI harness, the right side is buried under it. One other issue you will find, the 1986 air filter has no way to insert the MAF sensor and the 1986 body does not have provision for the later airfilter housing, all that will need some work, Gary is seeing that on Big Blue. You could, as Steve83 pointed out just drop a later system in, and stay with the MAP sensor. Unless you are planning on a hotter cam, speed density works quite well, we had a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with a speed density, sequential EFI system, which also had some very nice stainless steel exhaust headers. FWIW, the 5.0L truck intake is actually pretty damn good and was used essentially unchanged through 1996. The Explorer intake is quite good, and if you eliminate the 90° elbow between the throttle body and plenum, it is basically like a Mustang intake. Biggest thing with the 5.0L in a truck, it lacks torque at low rpm which a truck needs much more than a car, you are dealing with something that weighs almost twice what a Mustang does. I told a good friend who had, at the time two F150s, one was a 4.9L 1986, the other a 5.0L 1994, both automatics. He was building a house in Charlotte County VA, and going up weekends from Newport News VA while doing this, he asked me which was the better choice to keep and use. I told him the 94 with the overdrive automatic and V8 was a better highway truck, if he needed to haul or drag something, the 6 was superior.

Yes, that is the HO firing order. It is also all 5.8L engines.

You can find most if not all of it can be found in a junkyard. fiveologyracing is packaging what is basically Mustang parts. If you have the AOD it will work great and even the 4R70/75W will work with it as the Mustang automatics were either AOD or 4R70/75Ws. The 1994 up automatic 5.0L and 1995 up 5.8L both came with MAF/SEFI, so they should be reasonably common in junkyards. Just keep in mind, up through 1995 they are EEC-IV, 1996 models are EEC-V and a lot of the stuff including the EEC is different. If you find one in a junkyard, grab all the wiring you can, better to have stuff you don't need than find you need something later. The injector firing order will need to be changed as 1994 up 5.0L and all 5.8L use a different firing order (13726548 instead of 15426378).