85lebaront2

Angelo, on the 1992-97 clusters, yes they are specific groups, but the wires can be moved on the connectors, there is a difference in the wiring between tachometer and no tachometer. I have the pinouts for them if anyone needs them. 1994 up have an air bag light, although 1994-97 HD (over 8500 GVW) did not get the air bag in the steering wheel. 1996/7 do not have a glove box lock, 1992-95 do. Heater core for factory A/C is the same service part from 1980-1997, the originals were copper/brass, everything is pretty well aluminum now.

You have to remember, he is in the UK and a Lucas packaged HEI module is probably a lot easier to find over there than a DS-II box. I was trying to give him a, hopefully, easier for him option. If I hadn't been around the Lucas Constant Energy ignition systems from the introduction, I would have no idea what they are. It is like trying to find parts for older UK imports here in the "colonies".

It was released in 1981 for MG and Jaguar 6 cyl cars, the complete system required a module and distributor replacement as the OPUS system distributor was not able to be converted (FWIW, OPUS stands for Oscillating Pick Up System). The OPUS system used what amounted to a small transformer with three legs, a set of ferrite rods in a plastic ring provided the fourth leg and the A/C voltage of the transformer would spike, triggering the system to fire the coil. The Constant Energy system uses a magnetic pick up coil that looks like a Chrysler electronic one.

Being in the UK, Lucas Constant Energy modules are the 4 pin HEI in a heat sink case. As a result using the DS-II distributor as a trigger and a Lucas coil could be an excellent fix.

Gary, it will also have a plug on the passenger side for the solenoids on the valve body and lack the TV lever outside of the manual lever. It attaches to an inner shaft on that side. Here are some pictures of a 4R75W that Bert's Tranmissions in Newport News built for Matt's 1986 F150. It is set up for a 4WD truck so the extension is different. Case came from a truck that was owned by CSX and used at the coal pier in NN is why it still looks dirty.

I actually used it on a 1989 French G30 trying to figure out why it would shut off. It was owner induced, he had swapped the engine box and the safety shutdown system the state of VA had on it when it was theirs shorted against the insulation foil backing. It worked just fine, how about the DS-II tester?

Not far off of my 20A suggestion. And I agree about the spares. And, the waveforms are very telling. The spike to over 20 is impressive, and the sustained spark is awesome! And, I'm sure you two are right that you could do this with a DS-II's PIP to trigger it. And you could put the HEI module in a DS-II case and no one would be the wiser. Bill - The EEC-V system uses an E-coil. How hot is that system? I'll have to put the MAC scope someone gave me on it, I know the plugs gap at .042-.046". Check this video out:

Essentially, what you show is what Lucas did for their "Constant Energy" ignition, the only difference was they kept the original coil from the Opus system as it was apparently compatible. Their pickup looked like Chrysler electronic ignition pickup and used a similar close gap. I am quite confident that a Ford DS-II pickup would trigger it nicely, and if you retain the three lead plug, black is ground. This is why a DS-II system works even mounted on a plastic inner fender.

Yes, but the way the car is, I would be in the line of vision at least half of the time. Maybe I can con one of my neighbors into playing cameraman, then he could apply for a job at CNN.

Kind of hard to shoot a video while I am working on it, last time I looked I only had two hands and both will be in use.

1965 Corsa convertible, and yes those are Rochesters I rebuilt. The car was brought over here on 16 November so I could install and adjust. Missing parts, like the clips for the throttle linkage and the screws to attach it to the carbs. Primary carbs are Rochester HVs, auxiliary (secondary) carbs are Rochester Hs.

I have tuned many sets of multiple carbs by simply listening to the "hiss" of the air going past the throttle plates. Most interesting to set up are the Jaguar E type series III with a 4 carb V12, two on each side. Any way you do them involves a lot of walking back and forth around the bonnet. I used to put them on a lift, raise the car just far enough that the rubber bumper pads would sit on the floor allowing the bonnet to sit vertically for better access. I do still have 2 Uni-Syns, and one will be used fairly soon on this:

That is basically the setup he used. They weren't selling the Weber carbs then, so we used a couple Pinto carbs. Other item, we had them with the carbs turned with the float bowls to the front I believe, may have been to the back and the primary bore to the outside. Since the truck had a throttle rod rather than cable, we built a nice system with spherical bearings for the shaft on the inboard side of the carbs so the original relay linkage (pretty fancy system Ford used before the cables) would pull a lever approximately where the Carter throttle would have been. The issue with a lot of the older Ford mechanical (non-cable) systems was lots of monkey motion when they got older due to wear. The engineers had designed a very nice system that, unlike some others, was not affected by engine motion from torque.

Good friend put two Holley Weber two barrels on a Clifford dual 4 barrel intake on a 240 in a 1965 F100, he also put a Clifford header on it.

Looks pretty good sir! I am glad you did add the note regarding quality, there are so many of these systems sold on eBay that are, as I put it Chineseum, meaning very inferior quality and metal.

I would put a fuse rated a little lower than the fusible link, that way a short would blow the fuse and if it was a rubbed through wire or similar could be quickly repaired. A fried fusible link is a bigger problem to fix as opposed to simply trying a new fuse. If the DUI system has failed, it will blow it again as soon as the key is turned on. On the circuit, I am still of the opinion (yes I know what part of my anatomy is like opinions) that using the TFI system coil feed for the relay coil feed should ensure no starting or running issues.

Gary, William, even if the junction block isn't there, the yellow circuit 37 wire should be there with an open connection available. I think it would be a 1/4" terminal but can't remember or determine whether it would be male or female. If it will help, the Bosch relays in my Chrysler PDC have a 40 amp fuse for the cooling fans and I believe the internal feeds are #12 in it.

Figure 4 page 19 of the 1986 EVTM shows it's location, it is called the Left Side Junction Block.

Gary, FWIW, using the power harness for the TFI eliminates the ballast resistor from the equation. The #12 wire though, is what drives you to using a relay to power the DUI system. This was the point I was making several posts back about the HEI being a power hog. Are you (I can't look at the diagram right now) recommending going from the battery terminal of the starter relay? I think I would use the nice battery source on the driver's side, the insulated stud. That would put everything fairly close to the existing ignition system wiring and the new distributor. If he can find a relay cover like the trailer package and DRW trucks used I'm sure he could stick the relay under there. If not, maybe one of the Bosch relays with a mounting tab so it can be installed right side up (terminals down) as Steve points out they are pretty weatherproof if somewhat protected from the worst conditions. The .050 - .055 gap sounds about right for an HEI system, I don't have tune-up specs for anything that old my information starts at 1982, Chevy that year was .045 gap, but the Oldsmobile 307 was .060 gap. Manifold vacuum was what most GM engines used until the first emission systems in 1968 and I know that ported spark and Chevrolet engines did not play well together, yet Chrysler used ported spark with no issues, but their static timing was as high as 12.5° BTDC on the big blocks, Chevy was on the order of 4-6° BTDC on most engines.

I too have worked rotating shifts and can fully understand the "fog" night shift, unless like some I worked with who preferred it is alien to human nature, vampires and zombies, no. Vacuum advance, easiest way to describe it, it makes up the difference in what the engine can handle under load and what it can handle unloaded or lightly loaded. Performance (racing) engines use either a fixed advance or only a centrifugal (rpm varied) advance system. For years, that was all that was put on cars once automatic advance systems were introduced, other than Ford. Ford used a centrifugal advance with fairly light springs and vacuum brake system. The vacuum brake was a spring loaded piston connected to the intake manifold vacuum and a disc on the movable portion of the centrifugal advance that the brake held back. Higher manifold vacuum would retract the piston and allow the spark to advance more. Chevrolet added an external vacuum diaphragm to the "floating" distributor body which it rotated for more advance. When Ford and Holley started working together in the late 40s, Holley developed the "Load-a-matic all vacuum advance system, no mechanical advance weights or springs. These required either a spark control valve or a check ball so the very weak venturii signal didn't leak, but the stronger ported spark signal was still available. These distributors had a large fairly flat vacuum chamber and two angled springs on the breaker plate. FWIW, (a) Mallory Rev-pol distributors and some of the offshoots of them use the old Ford vacuum brake system (b) GM distributors have one of the easiest mechanical advance systems to re-curve, it's right under the rotor. If DUI uses the Ford style vacuum advance can, it is easily adjusted with a 1/8" Allen wrench. Your Carter or Holley or Motorcraft one barrel should have a manifold and ported vacuum source on it. Ford usually prefers ported spark, but not always, try both after setting the initial timing the way DUI says, then see which way it runs and drives better.

Jim, I used to preform shock tests for the Navy to Mil-S-901C later D and was one of the only three people at NNS qualified to do this. I was grandfathered when the qualification standards were changed sometime around 2000-2005. The qualification program became quite rigorous after that and when I retired it left two, one of whom died about 2 years after I retired. As a result, I learned very well how to secure things against damage. I built the stackup, then cut up a couple of big boxes to hold it. Lots of extra bubble wrap on top.

Your opinion, I have had a number of MOPAR products with the shielded relays and never had a problem maybe I should rephrase it to "weatherproof", he is working on a 1986 truck, no underhood PDC, just the crack head wiring on the power distribution (someone loved fusible inks).

You might need to try it, keeping in mind under cranking conditions you will have less than battery voltage available. I do know that 7 volts from the stator circuit will pull in a Bosch relay. On the relay and socket, if it will be underhood, you might want it to be either weatherproof on the plug, or semi weatherproof with a "shroud" over the plug. I have a fair selection of Chrysler relays and their sockets with this style. They were used underhood on the 80s-90s minivans. Either that or the marker/trailer lamps or fuel pump style on these trucks.

Gary, the problem is, the W/LB, loses 12V power in Start, and the R/LG receives it, upon returning to Run, R/LG now is only fed through the resistor from the W/LB wire. In Start the W/LB would receive resisted 12V feed from the R/LG wire. For a choke heater source the W/LB wire would be great, for a reliable one wire ignition system, you should use the TFI setup where W/LB and R/LG are tied together to insure reliable 12V feed to the ignition module in both Start and Run. Apparently this was to keep from "cross feeding" the DS-II system? As for idiot lights, I thought I had a "GEN" light on Darth. The 1996 cluster has both the "ALT" light and voltmeter except it is a battery symbol.

Good that you are going with an American built unit. One thing to examine, I do not know if it applies to the six cylinder version or not. My son was at the Carlisle All Ford meet a couple of years ago and someone up there had one of the HEI units on a carbureted 460. It quit on him in the parking lot. In order to make a "universal" unit for the Ford V8s, the distributor drive was a two piece shaft with a short lower piece with the gear and oil pump drive and a slot for the distributor shaft. The roll pin in the lower had sheared. Ford frequently used double wall pins on theirs. Good luck with it, definitely you will need the relay for the current draw of an HEI system, I had to put one on a friends six cylinder Chevy he converted to a junkyard HEI unit. Carburetor, as Gary pointed out, you will need to either "neuter" the entire system or remove it. If you can find an early (pre-emission) carburetor for it, they are larger than the emission ones. It isn't so much external as it is a larger venturii and possibly throttle body. If you look at the EVTM for 1986 trucks, and 1985 is probably very similar, under ignition systems, you will see that there is an unresisted 12V feed used on the TFI ignition and a resisted feed for the DS-II along with a cranking bypass unresisted 12V feed to the DS-II coil. The TFI feed is the one you need and use it to control the relay, but, be sure it doesn't lose power in the start position. If you use the paired feed to the TFI system it has two power sources due to the two different ignition systems, the red with light green and the white with light blue are tied together in the TFI (EEC) harness, on a DS-II they are separate as the coil is fed through a resistance wire between the white/light blue and red/light green wires in the main harness, If you keep enough of the exiting harness to the TFI coil feed and use that wire for the relay control it will work just like the TFI or DS-II systems as far as powering the ignition system.