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That is my emission label from Darth, it shows the routing and colors for the vacuum rat's nest.

Welcome to the group! Sounds like a nice collection of Ford trucks.

Yes, I want to validate my assumption. And yes, Fuse link J is normally between the shunt and the battery, and it isn't going to like 130A. As for Big Blue, he doesn't have a shunt. Neither does Darth, he has a 200 amp fuse between the alternator and battery and has the 1996 instruments with the oil pressure gauge made functional and a volt meter.

Gary, if your Mopar product has an alternator, it is a direct reading one, but is more of a charge indicator than actual alternator output. As a result when removing the cluster from older Mopars, you definitely need to disconnect the battery.

Maybe the correct term would be a high pain threshold. I got the injection, actually two, one for each side and so far it seems to be helping.

Jim. you must be as stubborn as I am, I walked around for over a week with a ruptured appendix, it was only when I couldn't pee that I finally decided to let Karen take me to the ER. They did emergency surgery on me and kept me in for 3 or 4 days. Due to my working on Mercedes and Jaguars, I had a whos who of Newport News doctors checking on me, including the kids pediatrician.

I remebered it quite well.

My first real job was at a lawn and garden shop in Norfolk VA. Dad knew the manager and got him to hire me. First stop was at Sears, where he co-signed on an Easy-Pay account so I could buy my own tools. I still have most of those we bought. I was sharpening blades, doing tune ups etc. I went to college that fall at what had just been renamed Old Dominion College, now Old Dominion University. I was an engneering major, but failed English Composition and Literature. During Easter break (one week) I went back to the shop for a week, walked in, was told that's your bench, first job, assemble a big old upright Briggs and Stratton single. It had been bored, crank ground, new valves, seats refaced. Everything was laid out ready for me, including a B&S service manual for torque specs and sequence. I started back that summer, but since I was on academic suspension and Vietnam was in full swing, a 1A draft status was an almost guaranteed SE Asian vacation. I ended up enlisting in USMCR as they actually guaranteed I would be back in time for the second semester.

No, you just need to rearrange the wires. Here is how I did mine when I first put a PMGR starter on. Solenoid stud refers to the big stud, to solenoid is the small wire to the starter solenoid which can be a pigtail or a smaller stud.

You need the 3225 starter or the drive end housing from one. Here is a link to the starters on RockAuto, look at the two BBB industries listings, they use the same numbers: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1992,f-350,7.5l+v8,1126673,electrical,starter+motor,4152

It is a different drive end housing, gets the gear further into the clutch housing. The two numbers are 3225 for a manual transmission and 3226 for an automatic transmission. These are numbers that may or may not be on the box, but most parts stores with any experience will be able to put them tho their numbers.

Mat, it sounds like he has a valve body issue, due to the no drive in 1st after slowing way down or stopping. In OD the forward clutch is released to allow the OD band to hold the front drum. If the valve controlling the forward clutch is sticking (and it could be more than one) the transmission will effectively be in neutral when it downshifts. I was trying to find a hydraulic diagram for it, but I am drawing a blank. There is a TSB (85-10-12) regarding the 3-4 shift valve design change that addresses a no drive condition after a coast down from 4th gear. 1985 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L VIN N FI Copyright © 2013, ALLDATA 10.52SS Page 1 Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - AOD No Forward Drive Condition Article No. 85-10-12 TRANSMISSION - AUTOMATIC - AOD - NO FORWARD DRIVE AFTER COAST DOWN FROM FOURTH GEAR FORD 1983-1985 FORD, THUNDERBIRD, LTD, MUSTANG LINCOLN-MERCURY 1983-85 MERCURY, COUGAR, MARQUIS, CAPRI, LINCOLN, MARK, CONTINENTAL LIGHT TRUCK 1983-85 E & F SERIES Some AOD-equipped vehicles with transmissions built between March, 1983 and April 19, 1985, may exhibit a no forward drive condition after coast down from fourth gear. This condition may occur if a small particle of contamination causes the 3-4 shift valve to stick in the forward clutch exhaust position. Figure 11 - 3-4 SHIFT VALVE DESIGN To service this condition, install a new 3-4 shift valve that has a design with flats on the valve. This will allow contamination to pass and be trapped in the main control filter assembly. The new valve was incorporated in production April 19, 1985. Refer to Figure 11 for visual differences between 3-4 shift valve design levels. PROCEDURE: 1. Verify that the transmission was built between March 1, 1983 and April 9, 1985. 2. Remove the main control assembly from the vehicle according to the Main Control Removal Procedure in Section 17-20 of the appropriate model year Car or Truck Shop Manual. 3. Partially disassemble the valve body to expose the valve body face by following Steps 1 and 2 of the Valve Body Disassembly Procedure in Section 17- 20 of the Shop Manual. This involves removing the separator plate, valve body gasket and all check balls. 4. Attempt to verify the concern by visually checking the 3-4 shift valve to see if a small particle of contamination is blocking the valve. 5. Remove the 3-4 shift valve bore sleeve from bore No. 5 as illustrated in the Shop Manual. The valve should fall out freely. Remove all springs and the 3-4 TV modulator valve. 6. Thoroughly clean the bore passage with solvent. 7. Pour solvent cleaner over the valve body face, spill solvent from passages, and blow dry with clean compressed air. 8. Replace the 3-4 shift valve with the flatted design (Part No. E5AZ-7F259-A). Reassemble the 3-4 TV modulator valve and spring, the new 3-4 shift valve and spring, the throttle plug sleeve, and the retaining clip in bore No. 5 as illustrated in the Shop Manual. 9. Reassemble the valve body by reversing Steps 1 and 2 of the Valve Body Disassembly Procedure. Be sure to use a new valve body gasket. 10. Reinstall the valve body by reversing Steps 1 and 2 of the Valve Body Disassembly Procedure. Be sure to use a new valve body gasket. 11. Reinstall the valve body on the transmission according to the Valve Body Installation Procedure in Section 17-20 of the Shop Manual. PART NUMBER PART NAME CLASS E5AZ-7F259-A 3-4 Shift Valve C OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None 1985 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L VIN N FI Copyright © 2013, ALLDATA 10.52SS Page 2 WARRANTY STATUS: Reimbursable within the provisions of the Warranty and Policy Manual. OPERATION: Refer to the Labor Standards Manual for applicable operation and time. 77396A2 TIME: 1.3 Hrs. DLR CODING: Basic Part No. 7A100 - Code: 41

If it weren't that it would cost a ton to ship, I would send you the 10.25" tool set, one of the tools is a shim driver for forcing the Ford shims in behind the bearing cups.

Gary, both shafts look like they have been turning in the bearing. After doing that for 39 years or so, the softer shaft metal has worn. Maybe some shim stock wrapped around the knurled area to make the bearing a slight press fit would solve the issue. The other option would be similar to what you did on the lower bearing, again just enough to make the bearing inner race a slight press (with your hands) fit. Unfortunately for you, all the steering columns I have are tilt wheel Saginaw built for Chrysler or the Ford stub columns used on later vehicles. Darth and the 1990 Town Car we owned and the 1994 Taurus all used the same style stub column.

Here's what I did for a housing spreader for my Dana 44. It took a little time, but very little money. Might be something to consider. Oh, and a way to get the diff out of the housing without a spreader. Put a box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and turn the pinion. When the ring gear turns so the wrench is against the face of the housing the wrench doesn't have anywhere to go so it pushes the diff out. You need a working ring and pinion to do it this way, but it's another good trick I was told. Ford doesn't call for nor even have a case spreader for the 10.25" housing. The original "shims" are thick steel rings in varying thicknesses, the aftermarket kits come with stacks on thin shims to make up to the needed thickness.

Jim, I had my right knee replaced in 2001, I probably should have the left one done, but Mary couldn't handle having to help me around. I told someone I think my warranty expired.

Welcome Ian, glad to have you on here. I am actually a year older than your grandad, and I actully have a great granddaughter who just turned 2. Any way I can help you with information, just ask.

Jim, when I did my friend's 10.25" axle (a) it was out of his truck as it was a junkyard axle that he wanted a disc brake setup installed on and (b) I could position the axle so installing the limited slip carrier assembly could be installed by "dropping" it in. The service kit I ordered came with a slip fit outer pinion bearing so the preload could be set easily along with the inner race shims. I also have the actual 10.25" axle service tool set (eBay), which definitely helped. There is one part of the set that got a lot of use, the pinion R&R set (one to pull the outer bearing on and one to drive the pinion back out). Biggest issue I had with the carrier bearing shims, Ford "shims" are actually thick spacers, the service kit shims are just that, shim stock rings in various thicknesses and the thinner ones love to fold while tring to stuff everything in. Side bearings were another PITA to remove, for the gear side, large bearing splitter, two 3/4-16 bolts with as much thread as possible and just jack the bearing cone and roller off the carrier. Other end would just fit in the press. I used a big pipe wrench, a 4' length of exhaust pipe and a good sized C clamp to tighten or loosen the pinion nut (kit had a non prevailing torque nut for fit-up purposes). The yoke that came with the used axle, had one of the U-joint retaining tabs broken off, so it was used to set up the pinion bearings. 12 ton press was very useful for the pinion bearings.

Jim, I can pull it off my AllData. Differential Assembly: Service and Repair Final Assembly and Adjustment 1. If removed, install new bearing cups using suitable tool. Ensure that cups are properly seated in their bores. If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between a cup and the bottom of its bore at any point around cup, the cup is not properly seated. Whenever cups are replaced, the cone and roller assembly should also be replaced. 2. Using proper rear axle pinion depth gauge tool, assemble appropriate aligning adapter, gauge disc and gauge block to screw. 3. Place rear pinion bearing over aligning disc and insert it into rear pinion bearing cup and assemble tool handle to screw. Roll assembly back and forth a few times to seat bearings while tightening tool handle by hand. Torque tool handle to 20 ft. lbs. The gauge block must be offset 45° to obtain accurate reading. 4. Center gauge tube into differential bearing bore, then install bearing caps, torquing bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. Select thickest shim that will enter between gauge tube and gauge block. Insert shim directly along gauge block to insure a correct reading. The shim fit should be a slight drag-type feel. Shims used for gauging must be flat to obtain correct feel. 5. Place selected shim(s) on pinion and press pinion bearing cone and roller assembly until it is firmly seated on shaft. The same rear pinion bearing used in this procedure must be used in final assembly of axle. Ensure that press load is not applied to bearing cage. 6. Check splines on pinion shaft to be sure that they are free of burrs. If burrs are evident, remove them with a fine crocus cloth, working in a rotational motion, then wipe pinion clean. 7. Place collapsible spacer on pinion shaft against rear bearing. 8. Working from rear of axle housing, install drive pinion assembly into housing pinion shaft bore. 9. Install front cone and roller and the oil slinger on pinion shaft. 10. Clean oil seal seat surface, then, using suitable tool, install seal in carrier and pack lips of seal with suitable lubricant. Installation without proper tool may result in early seal failure. If seal becomes cocked during installation, remove it and install new one. 11. Apply small amount of suitable lubricant to companion shaft splines, align mark on companion flange with mark on pinion shaft, install flange and install new nut on pinion shaft. If a new companion flange is being installed, disregard scribe mark on pinion shaft. The companion flange must never be hammered on or installed with power tools. 12. Hold companion flange with suitable tool and tighten pinion nut to minimum torque of 160 ft. lbs., rotating pinion occasionally to insure proper bearing seating. Take frequent pinion bearing torque preload readings until original recorded preload reading is obtained. 13. If original recorded preload is lower than 8---13 inch lbs. for original bearings, or less than 16---29 inch lbs. for new bearings, torque pinion nut to 140 ft. lbs. on 6-3/4 inch ring gear, 170 ft. lbs. on 7-1/2 inch ring gear, or 217 ft. lbs. on 8.8 and 10.25 inch ring gears. If preload is higher than specification, torque to original reading as recorded. Under no circumstances should pinion nut be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible pinion spacer and pinion nut must be installed. 14. Apply suitable lubricant to new wheel bearing and install bearing into housing using suitable tool. 15. Pack lips of seal with suitable lubricant and install axle shaft seal using suitable tool. Installation of bearing or seal assembly without proper tool may result in early bearing or seal failure. If seal becomes cocked in bore during installation, remove it and install new one. 16. Place differential case subassembly in carrier. 17. Install a .265 inch shim on left side. 18. Install left bearing cap and tighten bolts finger tight. 19. Install progressively larger shims on right side until largest shim selected can be assembled with a slight drag feel. Apply pressure towards left side to ensure that bearing cup is seated. 20. Install right side bearing cap and torque cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. 21. Rotate assembly to insure free rotation. 22. Check ring gear and pinion backlash. If backlash is .008---.015 inch, proceed to step 29. If backlash is zero, proceed to step 23. If backlash is not zero and not .008---.015 inch, proceed to step 25. 23. If backlash is zero, add .020 inch to right side and subtract .020 inch from left side. 24. Recheck backlash. If backlash is not within specification, proceed to step 25. If backlash is within specification, proceed to step 26. 25. If backlash is not within specification, correct backlash by increasing thickness of one shim and decreasing thickness of other shim by same amount. 26. Install shim and bearing caps, torquing cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. 27. Rotate assembly several times to ensure proper seating of differential bearings. 28. Recheck backlash. If backlash is within specification, proceed to step 29. If backlash is not within specification, proceed to step 25. 29. Increase both left and right shim sizes by .006 inch and install for correct differential bearing preload. Ensure that shims are fully seated and assembly turns freely. 30. Using white marking compound, obtain tooth mesh contact pattern. Pattern legibility can be improved by connecting driveshaft and rotating both tires in drive and coast direction. If gross pattern error is detected, recheck pinion shim selection. 31. Install bearing caps and torque cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. Recheck backlash. If backlash is not within specification, repeat step 25. 32. Install axle shafts, then install differential cover and fill differential with suitable lubricant.

Gary, I honestly can't say on the mounts. Sonny was going to see if he can figure out how much he has in it. I remember the 1947 and 1948 Chevies dad had, the 1947 was a sedan and the 1948 was an enginless convertible. The motor mounts on them were a front support, a rear under the transmission support and two little rectangular "out rigger" style on the lower part of the clutch housing. On the cars, the torque tube had a slip joint near the front, as the axle/torque tube combination was attached to the rear springs with pivots. This meant the axle location was determined by the rear springs, and the torque tube only enclosed the U-joint and drive shaft and took the rotational reaction. This was completely different from a Buick or Nash where the fore and aft axle location was controlled by the transmission mount (guy I worked with had a 1953 Roadmaster, 322 Nailhead and Dynaflow). The tranmission mount was two parts, one support it, the other was the thrust mount. Thrust mount had failed and the whole powertrain was about 3" forward and had sheared the motor mounts. I would suspect the 3 speed and Powerglide might be very close or the same length.

Gary, I just spoke with Sonny Tesh about the 235 and Powerglide. Powerglide was a closed shaft (Torque tube) unit. He bought the parts to change it to the open drive shaft for the Corvette. I mentioned one of his stumbling blocks being the motor mount brackets, the 1953-55 6 cylinder Corvette mounts were different than the car (and maybe truck) mounts. so after all the work, the engine would not fit the frame. He sort of put it "on the shelf" so to speak till a couple of years ago. He bought a later frame kit, put an LS3 and 4L80E in it.

I will call him tomorrow and find out. Both as I said were rebuilt by me.

I do know where there is a rebuilt 235, however it is a 1954 Corvette engine that the owner decided to restomod the car instead of restoring. There is also a rebuilt Powerglide with it. If he were to sell it minus the triple Carter YHs and split exhaust, it's just a slightly warmed up 235 (Jack Clifford hydraulic cam equivalent of the original Blue Flame solid lifter one). It is actually not a 1953/54 Corvette block as he found out when the motor mount locations were wrong.

Gee that brake assembly sounds like the system Chrysler used on some of their cars and minivans. We had a 1993 with the Bendix 10 ABS system, had a 2000 psi pump mounted on the top of the differential housing of the transaxle. Pump would fail and you had virtually no brakes. Accumulator would leak and the pump would cycle on and off continuously, or the check valve on the pump would fail, and same issue with the pump motor.

First car I remember my parents having was a 1948 Pontiac Silver Streak, Straight 8 and the first year Hydra-Matic for Pontiac. I can remember watching dad drill out a broken (corroded through) headbolt after using "permanent antifreeze" in it. This was probably 1953-54 while we were at Dahlgren VA before he traded it in on a 1953 Custom Imperial. I learned a few new and interesting words watching him. Imperial showed in some way how behind Chrysler was, it had the 331 Hemi, but a semi-automatic (tiptoe shift) transmission. It did have a torque converter though. The Pontiac still had the foot pedal starter and an elaborate linkage system to make sure the shifter was in Neutral (park lock was by placing the shifter in R with the engine off (N D L R quadrant). You need to find a "Blue Flame" 235 and a Hydra-Matic for that 50 and make it restorod.